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Good afternoon ! A friend who owns a small commercial cabinet shop asked if I had any idea where he could source a replacement impeller for his dust collection system. I told him about this group and that I would reach out for help. Two days ago, the system stopped working and threw the breaker . When they opened up the access to the cyclone they discovered that the aluminum impeller had disintegrated. The impeller is 17.5 inches in diameter and 7.5 inches in height. 1 3/8 shaft connected to a 15 hp motor. Any ideas / contacts appreciated. The unit is an AFS Cyclone but they are out of business. Thanks in advance. Tim House

What brand and model do the collective suggest for full overlay cabinet door hinges. We are talking the ubiquitous 35mm cup type. Here are the specifications that I think are relevant. The door frames will be 7/8 or 1” thick and 2.25” wide rail/stiles Cabinet sides will be ?” ply so slightly less than ?” The doors will have minimal gap 1/8” Doors on each end will be opening next to the walls, so will like just over 90 deg positive stop, 95 deg? Will add filler strips of appropriate width to allow appropriate door opening Inside doors have room to open as wide as possible so it can be whatever the standard is, 135 deg? Thanks, Imran Malik IAM Wood Creations https://www.facebook.com/groups/362481112015700/?ref=share

Does anyone have a preference between the Blum and Salice versions of these devices? I've used the Blum Tip-On (spring-loaded pushrod) in the past but the recent discussion of Salice led me to look at their version. It looks bulkier but perhaps more robust, especially for larger doors. Thanks in advance, Fred

Hello everyone. I wanted to share my new coffee table with you. It is named after an ancient city in Anatolia called Cappadocia. Cappadocia means Land of Free Horses in Ancient Roman language. The legs were hand carved from white oak. It was painted with antique bronze statue patina. K?k walnut, zebrano, mazel and ambanyo root were used on the table. There is a hemisphere structure made of zebrano under the table. It was fun and difficult to make. I wish everyone good work. Dimensions: 147 X147 cm h: 37 cm -- Burak Gürer Türkiye (sahibi ?lan 951-K740S-FB710) gurerwoodcraft/Instagram

Hi all, I'm sure there are folks here that have processed plain sawn Sapele (sometimes called African Mahogany). Has anyone experienced stability issues with plain sawn Sapele? I came across 100 bdft of the wood (5/4) 6 months ago and it's been in the shop acclimating (shop has HVAC). I would have rather had quarter sawn but they were out. This morning I planed down a board, taking equal number of passes on each side for cabinet face frames, they also started moving after dimensioning them. This movement is 0.25" or more and some boards are moving in the face and edge directions. The face frame grain looks uniform and the end grain doesn't appear to directional changes. At this point I'm not sure if the lack of stability is characteristic of plain sawn Sapele or just the board I picked. I generally don't experience this with White Oak, Cherry or Walnut. I'm doing another test where I process this material more slowly to see if the woods behavior changes, but this will take weeks. I experienced this issue before when processing Zebra wood for a project. Thanks in advance, Darrell Miller Chico, Tx

Had a private conversation with Brett Wissel little while ago and for paint grade he recommended plywood with MDF/HDF skins. Combi-core is also an option. Problem is that no one in Indianapolis stocks these but they will order it. This means I must be completely certain about what I am ordering. Here is what I am after: Size = 4x8 Prefer 1” thickness but settle for ?” Wood core is necessary due to Murphy bed HW I would really like it to come primed Ideally, I would like enough detail so that I can place the order. Thanks, Imran Malik IAM Wood Creations https://www.facebook.com/groups/362481112015700/?ref=share

Hello everyone, does anyone know how to integrate the dust extraction electrical system for my AD 951 to the machine? Both of my machines are 380 V. I want to connect my cable to my machine. I am really tired of opening the dust extraction separately every time. If anyone knows this, please write. Greetings from Turkey. -- Burak Gürer Türkiye (owner Ad 951-K740S-FB710) gurerwoodcraft/Instagram

A couple of years ago there was a discussion on pocket hole machines. Back then the Maksiwa PHM.30 was new and nobody had any experience with it. Curious if anybody has purchased one and what your thoughts are on it? It's not a Castle but appears to be more versatile than a Castle. Shop floor is formed and waiting for a break in the weather to be poured. Thanks Dave Davies

Hey Gentleman I am looking at getting a 3x4 sander. I have festool sanders which i like but the 3x4 is taller than i prefer and was looking at these two sanders. Does anyone have experience with them both that could compare them? I will use it on furniture and refinishing some exterior doors -- Michael Marsico

I know that this is a bad idea, and I have never before used butt hinges with MDF doors, but I want to explore whether anybody has been foolish enough to do the same thing - and succeed. I needed to put doors on a large cupboard that houses an oil heating boiler and an unvented hot water cylinder. The cupboard is in a utility room that may become humid so, because of the heat and (possible) humidity, I decided to use MR MDF for stability, with 80x18 rails and stiles and 6mm panels. There are 3 doors horizontally and 2 vertically, each is about 550x1160. The outer ones will be hinged to the door lining using Blum hinges (frameless, inset) but the centre door needs to be hung off one of the others (a sort of bi-fold) and needs to be removable for service access - this is where I'm thinking of using lift-off butt hinges. Clearly, I can't just screw into the edge of the MDF so I'm considering whether to inset some softwood into the edge to accept the screws, or to make some cross-grain dowels and inserting them to take the screws, or to attempt to buy/fabricate cranked hinges that will attach to the rear face, or ... ? Sorry for the long, non-Felder-related ramble, but I'd be grateful for any comments and suggestions. Dave (in the UK)

I recently sold my K700S and replaced it with a K450 X-Motion. As requested by one FOG member, these are my initial impressions of the two saws. As background, I am a retired old fogey who has done woodworking as a hobby for some 35 years. The backbone of my shop was a Delta Unisaw. It was a fine saw, but after 30+ years I was ready for something else. The K700S was a good machine, and really did everything I wanted it to do. Mine had no electronic controls, but was accurate and smooth. The upgrade to the X-Motion was largely to get the M-Motion fence and blade height, and I was also interested in the PCS system. I have never been close to having an injury with the Delta or the K700S, but if I ever did I would mentally have a hard time enjoying this hobby. In no particular order, my thoughts are as follows. Size: The K450-X is a large and heavier saw. While the rip capacity, slider length and outrigger fence are the same, the sheet metal of the K450-X is thicker. The K450-X has a much larger and sturdier outfeed table, and I find that additional working surface to be quite helpful. Overarm Guard: The overarm guard of the K450-X is much larger. At first I thought it would be awkward working around it, but that does not seem to be the case. It is much easier to move the guard out of the way, as the guard releases with a toggle instead of having to unscrew a bolt to loosen it and then walk back around the saw to re-connect it. That sounds like a small thing, but it is a big change in convenience. The dust collection hose at the overarm guard is 3 ?” diameter in the K700S and 4” on the K450-X, but I do not feel like there is a noticeable difference in the performance. Power: The K700S had a single-phase 4 kW motor, while the K450X has a 5.5kW three-phase motor. The K450-X is a more powerful saw than the K700S, but since the K700S never seemed short on power that is not a significant difference for me. The K450-X is a very noisy saw. Without measuring sound levels, it seems to be quite a bit louder than the K700S even with the same blades. Blades: Changing blades seemed easier on the K700S. I cannot quite put my finger on why it is easier. It is partly because the pins on the K700S go completely through the blade flange and the pins on the K450-A do not. I could align the flange more easily on the K700S. The K450-X will accommodate larger blades. I used 300-mm blades on the K700S (and those looked huge compared to my old 10” blades!), and I also have a couple of 350-mm and one 400-mm blade for my K450-X. Normally that is not a significant thing, but I did have one instance with my K700S where I could not cut as deeply as I wanted. A 400-mm blade is a monster! The K700S has blade pins attached to the arbor, while the blade pins on the K450-X are attached to a flange. When mounting a dado set (a Forrest Dado King, in my case) on the K700S the pins engage the dado set. On the K450-X the flange with the pins is removed to mount the dado set, so there are no pins to secure the dado set. So far I have not attempted to use the dado, so I do not know how to deal with this difference. Adjustments: Adjusting the outrigger fence for a square cut was much easier on the K700S. The mechanism is simpler, and when using a square and dial indicator I could see the change in the indicator while I made adjustments. With the K450-X I have to move the square out of the way, disconnect the fence at the adjuster, make an adjustment, and put everything back together to see if the adjustment was right. The X-Motion fence is fantastic! No more walking around the slider to adjust the fence! Using the display panel to set blade height and fence position is particularly helpful. I am in the middle of making a frame and panel chest (toybox for a grand-daughter) and I can switch back and forth between plowing grooves and making tenons, or even change a blade and cut pieces to length or width, and then go back to a previous operation by keying in the appropriate settings. That makes a change in operation, as with previous saws I had to complete all of one o

Anyone have any experience veneering hollow core doors? I’m running a vacuum press 20lbs at 5,000ft elevation. We have 8 doors to do, and have already run the hardwood edge banding and scribed to the openings. (Last year we did the original 50’s hollow cores with no issues) Did first new purchase door test with Masonite platen and collapsed the door. Probably just going to buy a solid core to use as platen but looking for any advise. Thanks!!

I'm wondering if anyone here has a source for 65mm od tooling sleeves? Omas has up to 60mm but I don't see anything at 65mm. I'd prefer to just buy one rather than machine one.

Hello I have been a member since about 2005 and this is my first post :) Recently purchased 2002 SCM T130 with 1 & 1/4" spindle. Because I have Felder machines I want to change to a 30 mm spindle on the T130. All wisdom is appreciated. Thanks in advance. Graeme.