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Fixing butt hinges on the edge of MDF doors (!!!)

aero_qfi All Messages By This Member #140002 I know that this is a bad idea, and I have never before used butt hinges with MDF doors, but I want to explore whether anybody has been foolish enough to do the same thing - and succeed. ? I needed to put doors on a large cupboard that houses an oil heating boiler and an unvented hot water cylinder. The cupboard is in a utility room that may become humid so, because of the heat and (possible) humidity, I decided to use MR MDF for stability, with 80x18 rails and stiles and 6mm panels. There are 3 doors horizontally and 2 vertically, each is about 550x1160. The outer ones will be hinged to the door lining using Blum hinges (frameless, inset) but the centre door needs to be hung off one of the others (a sort of bi-fold) and needs to be removable for service access - this is where I'm thinking of using lift-off butt hinges. Clearly, I can't just screw into the edge of the MDF so I'm considering whether to inset some softwood into the edge to accept the screws, or to make some cross-grain dowels and inserting them to take the screws, or to attempt to buy/fabricate cranked hinges that will attach to the rear face, or ... ? Sorry for the long, non-Felder-related ramble, but I'd be grateful for any comments and suggestions. ? Dave (in the UK)
Morgan Skinner All Messages By This Member #140007 开云体育 I built the attached MDF doors about 10 years ago and they are as good now as the day I built them. Each of the leaves is about 910 x 290, so smaller than yours but also made from 18mm MDF, so I’d estimate they are roughly equivalent in weight.? All I did was attach the hinges to the face rather than the edge - I believe you could do the same. If you did want to reinforce the edge, I’d rout a dado at the back of the door and inset a batten from top to bottom, giving you heaps of glue area.? Hope this helps! Regards, Morgan toggle quoted message Show quoted text On 16 Feb 2025, at 21:15, aero_qfi via groups.io <davesawdon@...> wrote: ? I know that this is a bad idea, and I have never before used butt hinges with MDF doors, but I want to explore whether anybody has been foolish enough to do the same thing - and succeed. ? I needed to put doors on a large cupboard that houses an oil heating boiler and an unvented hot water cylinder. The cupboard is in a utility room that may become humid so, because of the heat and (possible) humidity, I decided to use MR MDF for stability, with 80x18 rails and stiles and 6mm panels. There are 3 doors horizontally and 2 vertically, each is about 550x1160. The outer ones will be hinged to the door lining using Blum hinges (frameless, inset) but the centre door needs to be hung off one of the others (a sort of bi-fold) and needs to be removable for service access - this is where I'm thinking of using lift-off butt hinges. Clearly, I can't just screw into the edge of the MDF so I'm considering whether to inset some softwood into the edge to accept the screws, or to make some cross-grain dowels and inserting them to take the screws, or to attempt to buy/fabricate cranked hinges that will attach to the rear face, or ... ? Sorry for the long, non-Felder-related ramble, but I'd be grateful for any comments and suggestions. ? Dave (in the UK)
Jason Holtz All Messages By This Member #140009 I've had to do this before. I plowed a dado in the edge of the doors and glued in a piece of hardwood maybe 12x25 mm. All the screws go into the wood and it works fine.? Jason Holtz J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406 612.432.2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
jontathan samways All Messages By This Member #140014 Dave, 99% of high end uk kitchen manufacturers that produce painted face frame stuff use MR MDF doors and butt hinges. The trick is to pre drill for the screw, use a longish quality screw like assay or spax and do not over tighten the screw.? I’ve done it 100s of times over the last 40 years and never had a call back Kindest Regards Jonathan Samways Este mensaje se dirige exclusivamente a su destinatario y puede contener información privilegiada o confidencial. Si no es vd.el destinatario indicado, queda notificado de que la utilización, divulgación y/o copia sin autorización está prohibida en virtud de la legislación vigente. Si ha recibido este mensaje por error, le rogamos que nos lo comunique inmediatamente por esta misma vía y proceda a su destrucción. This message is intended exclusively for its addressee and may contain information that is confidential and protected by professional privilege.If you are not the intended recipient you are hereby notified that any dissemination, copy or disclosure of this communication is strictly prohibited by law. If this message has been received in error, please immediately notify us via e-mail and delete it. toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Sun, 16 Feb 2025 at 23:54, Morgan Skinner via <morgan=[email protected]> wrote: I built the attached MDF doors about 10 years ago and they are as good now as the day I built them. Each of the leaves is about 910 x 290, so smaller than yours but also made from 18mm MDF, so I’d estimate they are roughly equivalent in weight.? All I did was attach the hinges to the face rather than the edge - I believe you could do the same. If you did want to reinforce the edge, I’d rout a dado at the back of the door and inset a batten from top to bottom, giving you heaps of glue area.? Hope this helps! Regards, Morgan On 16 Feb 2025, at 21:15, aero_qfi via <davesawdon=[email protected]> wrote: ? I know that this is a bad idea, and I have never before used butt hinges with MDF doors, but I want to explore whether anybody has been foolish enough to do the same thing - and succeed. ? I needed to put doors on a large cupboard that houses an oil heating boiler and an unvented hot water cylinder. The cupboard is in a utility room that may become humid so, because of the heat and (possible) humidity, I decided to use MR MDF for stability, with 80x18 rails and stiles and 6mm panels. There are 3 doors horizontally and 2 vertically, each is about 550x1160. The outer ones will be hinged to the door lining using Blum hinges (frameless, inset) but the centre door needs to be hung off one of the others (a sort of bi-fold) and needs to be removable for service access - this is where I'm thinking of using lift-off butt hinges. Clearly, I can't just screw into the edge of the MDF so I'm considering whether to inset some softwood into the edge to accept the screws, or to make some cross-grain dowels and inserting them to take the screws, or to attempt to buy/fabricate cranked hinges that will attach to the rear face, or ... ? Sorry for the long, non-Felder-related ramble, but I'd be grateful for any comments and suggestions. ? Dave (in the UK)
aero_qfi All Messages By This Member #140018 Thanks for the quick replies. ? Morgan: I hadn't considered using tee hinges for the outer doors. They would be more robust than the Blum "click-top" type but I will need to consult with my in-house head of aesthetics. I forgot to mention that the centre doors need to open outwards, so I can't put hinges on the rear of the stiles - unless they have extended and cranked leaves ... but they also need to lift-off. ? Jason: That's what I was considering, but longer than 25mm in order to give a larger load-spreading area. I'd thought of softwood to reduce the bursting risk, but I guess hardwood with a well-piloted screw hole would be good. ? Jonathan: That's very interesting - so perhaps I'm fussing needlessly. I'll do some tests with these before making a decision. ? Dave (in the UK)
jontathan samways All Messages By This Member #140019 Dave to give you an idea of what we are talking about all these images are MDF doors with brass butts, normally I use tulip wood for the frames....but have also used MDF for the frames. Screws I use are Spax 3x30 and 65mm brass butts toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Mon, 17 Feb 2025 at 11:57, aero_qfi via <davesawdon=[email protected]> wrote: Thanks for the quick replies. ? Morgan: I hadn't considered using tee hinges for the outer doors. They would be more robust than the Blum "click-top" type but I will need to consult with my in-house head of aesthetics. I forgot to mention that the centre doors need to open outwards, so I can't put hinges on the rear of the stiles - unless they have extended and cranked leaves ... but they also need to lift-off. ? Jason: That's what I was considering, but longer than 25mm in order to give a larger load-spreading area. I'd thought of softwood to reduce the bursting risk, but I guess hardwood with a well-piloted screw hole would be good. ? Jonathan: That's very interesting - so perhaps I'm fussing needlessly. I'll do some tests with these before making a decision. ? Dave (in the UK) -- Kindest Regards Jonathan Samways Este mensaje se dirige exclusivamente a su destinatario y puede contener información privilegiada o confidencial. Si no es vd.el destinatario indicado, queda notificado de que la utilización, divulgación y/o copia sin autorización está prohibida en virtud de la legislación vigente. Si ha recibido este mensaje por error, le rogamos que nos lo comunique inmediatamente por esta misma vía y proceda a su destrucción. This message is intended exclusively for its addressee and may contain information that is confidential and protected by professional privilege.If you are not the intended recipient you are hereby notified that any dissemination, copy or disclosure of this communication is strictly prohibited by law. If this message has been received in error, please immediately notify us via e-mail and delete it. 13292.JPG 13513.JPG 14089.JPG 1000001583.JPG
Jason Holtz All Messages By This Member #140030 Brass butt hinges on MDF doors sounds like a crazy juxtaposition of new and old. Jason Holtz J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406 612.432.2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
jontathan samways All Messages By This Member #140036 Jason, MDF does not move or twist so on a painted finish it just works Kindest Regards Jonathan Samways Este mensaje se dirige exclusivamente a su destinatario y puede contener información privilegiada o confidencial. Si no es vd.el destinatario indicado, queda notificado de que la utilización, divulgación y/o copia sin autorización está prohibida en virtud de la legislación vigente. Si ha recibido este mensaje por error, le rogamos que nos lo comunique inmediatamente por esta misma vía y proceda a su destrucción. This message is intended exclusively for its addressee and may contain information that is confidential and protected by professional privilege.If you are not the intended recipient you are hereby notified that any dissemination, copy or disclosure of this communication is strictly prohibited by law. If this message has been received in error, please immediately notify us via e-mail and delete it. toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Tue, 18 Feb 2025 at 00:42, Jason Holtz via <jholtzy=[email protected]> wrote: Brass butt hinges on MDF doors sounds like a crazy juxtaposition of new and old. Jason Holtz J. Holtz Furniture 612.432.2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture
aero_qfi All Messages By This Member #140037 On Mon, Feb 17, 2025 at 03:15 PM, jontathan samways wrote: Dave to give you an idea of what we are talking about all these images are MDF doors with brass butts, normally I use tulip wood for the frames....but have also used MDF for the frames. Screws I use are Spax 3x30 and 65mm brass butts Thanks Jonathan, that's very reassuring (and lovely work in those photos). ? Dave (in the UK)

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