|
Hey Folks! I built this lifting workbench on the Rangate lift cart. The workbench has a 3030 aluminum extrusion based torsion box that provides MFT table-style side clamping on all four slides. The base of the torsion box doubles up like a giant tray for temporarily holding tools and loose items while you work. If you want to watch the build: I've posted my first YouTube video here. The accompanying blog post is here. Thanks, Rohit Kulshreshtha
|
|
I have an unused lifting bar and rolling carriage for sale. This was originally ordered with my A3 31 but I went with a different mobile base. Retail pricing for both is $240 ($133 and $107). I'll sell the set for $140. Local pickup preferred. I'm located near Seal Beach, CA. Let me know, thanks! Anthony
|
|
spiral cutter for older Felder
3
Hi, my second post. I forgot to ask, is it worthwhile fitting a spiral cutter to the planer / thicknesser on an old FB5 31. And, is there a direct replacement or is a special order required. Please excuse my ignorance, I am new to this. Thanks, Robert
|
|
Hello, I'm form city of Salto, Uruguay. We have a Felder KF 700 S, Due to a problem with the equipment, we connected the scoring unit directly with a push button. Now that we have the spare parts, we cannot understand the electrical diagram that comes with the equipment. We need to identify where to connect the 3 phase cables to the terminal block. If anyone knows or has the same model, we would appreciate a photo of the location of these cables. Thank you.
|
|
I am hobbyist that is interested in purchasing a dedicated bandsaw. My budget and other constraints have me considering all of the following: Laguna LT18 Resaw Master, Felder FB 510, and SCM s540p. My constraints include that I am not interested in restoring an older bandsaw, and I do not have 3PH power (and do not want to go down that path for various reasons). These machines all cost similarly, have 1PH 4-5HP motors, and are close in size. I do not have much experience with resawing and have primarily looked to a family member with an MM16 to help me out in those circumstances. I have read here and elsewhere that many people think that tensioning a 1" blade to 25k is "the standard"...which it would appear that all of these machines are capable of. I imagine there are many more factors to consider as well...like customer support, quality of guides, etc. Does anyone have thoughts on these machines?
|
|
I have a frameless cabinet that is 44.5¡± wide and ~20¡± deep. I need to place pull out shelfs in the lower part of the cabinet. Is there any kind of slide that can accommodate this width? I can easily add a vertical partition to divide the width in half. Dimensioned drawing is attached. Thanks, Imran Malik IAM Wood Creations https://www.facebook.com/groups/362481112015700/?ref=share
|
|
Good afternoon ! A friend who owns a small commercial cabinet shop asked if I had any idea where he could source a replacement impeller for his dust collection system. I told him about this group and that I would reach out for help. Two days ago, the system stopped working and threw the breaker . When they opened up the access to the cyclone they discovered that the aluminum impeller had disintegrated. The impeller is 17.5 inches in diameter and 7.5 inches in height. 1 3/8 shaft connected to a 15 hp motor. Any ideas / contacts appreciated. The unit is an AFS Cyclone but they are out of business. Thanks in advance. Tim House
|
|
What brand and model do the collective suggest for full overlay cabinet door hinges. We are talking the ubiquitous 35mm cup type. Here are the specifications that I think are relevant. The door frames will be 7/8 or 1¡± thick and 2.25¡± wide rail/stiles Cabinet sides will be ?¡± ply so slightly less than ?¡± The doors will have minimal gap 1/8¡± Doors on each end will be opening next to the walls, so will like just over 90 deg positive stop, 95 deg? Will add filler strips of appropriate width to allow appropriate door opening Inside doors have room to open as wide as possible so it can be whatever the standard is, 135 deg? Thanks, Imran Malik IAM Wood Creations https://www.facebook.com/groups/362481112015700/?ref=share
|
|
Does anyone have a preference between the Blum and Salice versions of these devices? I've used the Blum Tip-On (spring-loaded pushrod) in the past but the recent discussion of Salice led me to look at their version. It looks bulkier but perhaps more robust, especially for larger doors. Thanks in advance, Fred
|
|
Hello everyone. I wanted to share my new coffee table with you. It is named after an ancient city in Anatolia called Cappadocia. Cappadocia means Land of Free Horses in Ancient Roman language. The legs were hand carved from white oak. It was painted with antique bronze statue patina. K?k walnut, zebrano, mazel and ambanyo root were used on the table. There is a hemisphere structure made of zebrano under the table. It was fun and difficult to make. I wish everyone good work. Dimensions: 147 X147 cm h: 37 cm -- Burak G¨¹rer T¨¹rkiye (sahibi ?lan 951-K740S-FB710) gurerwoodcraft/Instagram
|
|
Hi all, I'm sure there are folks here that have processed plain sawn Sapele (sometimes called African Mahogany). Has anyone experienced stability issues with plain sawn Sapele? I came across 100 bdft of the wood (5/4) 6 months ago and it's been in the shop acclimating (shop has HVAC). I would have rather had quarter sawn but they were out. This morning I planed down a board, taking equal number of passes on each side for cabinet face frames, they also started moving after dimensioning them. This movement is 0.25" or more and some boards are moving in the face and edge directions. The face frame grain looks uniform and the end grain doesn't appear to directional changes. At this point I'm not sure if the lack of stability is characteristic of plain sawn Sapele or just the board I picked. I generally don't experience this with White Oak, Cherry or Walnut. I'm doing another test where I process this material more slowly to see if the woods behavior changes, but this will take weeks. I experienced this issue before when processing Zebra wood for a project. Thanks in advance, Darrell Miller Chico, Tx
|
|
Clear Vue Cyclones going out of business
3
I accidentally hit an old bookmark in my browser, and discovered that the Clear Vue Cyclones company is shutting down, because the owners are retiring. They say that have a limited inventory of parts that they're selling off. If you have a Clear Vue cyclone, and were thinking of replacing a part, now's the time to act. -Michael Wolf Tahoe City, CA
|
|
Had a private conversation with Brett Wissel little while ago and for paint grade he recommended plywood with MDF/HDF skins. Combi-core is also an option. Problem is that no one in Indianapolis stocks these but they will order it. This means I must be completely certain about what I am ordering. Here is what I am after: Size = 4x8 Prefer 1¡± thickness but settle for ?¡± Wood core is necessary due to Murphy bed HW I would really like it to come primed Ideally, I would like enough detail so that I can place the order. Thanks, Imran Malik IAM Wood Creations https://www.facebook.com/groups/362481112015700/?ref=share
|
|
BF5 31 power feed mounting
Hi, I am new to the group and the new owner of a 1988 BF5 31. I've had a look through the forum for information on this machine and see mixed reviews. I paid $3500 Australian dollars a few weeks ago and thought it was an OK price. It has all the accessories, including a couple of cutter heads and many cutters for the spindle moulder. It looks to have been well cared for by an elderly hobbyist. He was the second owner and had the machine for 20 years. It has never seen professional work but has had the odd repair - replacement gears for lowering and raising of the moulder. I purchased the machine to make approx. 20 sash windows (with weight boxes). I think it will help me with that. Is this still considered a decent machine for the job I have at hand? The main question - I have a 1HP power feed, taken from another machine. It weighs in at around 76kg. I am planning to mount this on the right-hand side of the table saw top. To the right of the spindle moulder. This area will retain the most functionality of the machine and could also allow the power feed to be used with the jointer (I have a very good Harvey table saw, in case I need to cut larger panels). However, I'm concerned that the weight of the power feed might be too much for the cast iron top? I could sell the 1HP and invest in a new 1/2HP machine. The old machine is a 4-roller model (KUFO SK 40FD) and is quite large. Does anyone have experience with fitting a power feed to one of these older machines, and what is the advice around the strength of the cast iron top? I could also mount the 1HP unit to the wheeled base, which I've just made to allow moving the beast around my workshop. Thanks for any advice, Robert
|
|
Hello everyone, does anyone know how to integrate the dust extraction electrical system for my AD 951 to the machine? Both of my machines are 380 V. I want to connect my cable to my machine. I am really tired of opening the dust extraction separately every time. If anyone knows this, please write. Greetings from Turkey. -- Burak G¨¹rer T¨¹rkiye (owner Ad 951-K740S-FB710) gurerwoodcraft/Instagram
|
|
A couple of years ago there was a discussion on pocket hole machines. Back then the Maksiwa PHM.30 was new and nobody had any experience with it. Curious if anybody has purchased one and what your thoughts are on it? It's not a Castle but appears to be more versatile than a Castle. Shop floor is formed and waiting for a break in the weather to be poured. Thanks Dave Davies
|
|
Hey Gentleman I am looking at getting a 3x4 sander. I have festool sanders which i like but the 3x4 is taller than i prefer and was looking at these two sanders. Does anyone have experience with them both that could compare them? I will use it on furniture and refinishing some exterior doors -- Michael Marsico
|
|
Question for old CF 741 Pro
3
My late husband, John Manning, used to be on this group. He loved it! So when I had a question regarding an older Felder CF 741 Pro, I knew where to turn. (No, I did not sell the machine after John's passing). I remarried 1.5 years ago, and my "new" husband is interested in using the machine. Does anyone know if Felder ever put out an owner's manual (or others) for the CF741? If so, where might I get a copy? If someone has one, I would be quite delighted to pay to get a copy. I have purchased the manual from David Best, and that has filled in some gaps. However, we are trying to put accessories on the Felder and also get it set up so that things are parallel, flat, level, etc. Not all is specifically covered in David's manual, wonderful as it is! Ideas are welcome! Joy Manning Nichols
|
|
Help with moving a Felder CY731
14
Hello, My father-in-law recently passed, and he had a Felder combination machine (731-03) in his shop along with a Felder bandsaw (FB-40). I need to move both in advance of selling his house, but haven't the faintest idea as to how do to so. Would appreciate any guidance as to how they can be moved safely. The combination machine has a long (10ft?) slide which I presume needs to be removed prior to moving the base, but am not clear how to do so. I assume there have to be some guides as to how to move a felder, but so far I have been unable to find anything. Thx, Calvin Keaton
|
|
I know that this is a bad idea, and I have never before used butt hinges with MDF doors, but I want to explore whether anybody has been foolish enough to do the same thing - and succeed. I needed to put doors on a large cupboard that houses an oil heating boiler and an unvented hot water cylinder. The cupboard is in a utility room that may become humid so, because of the heat and (possible) humidity, I decided to use MR MDF for stability, with 80x18 rails and stiles and 6mm panels. There are 3 doors horizontally and 2 vertically, each is about 550x1160. The outer ones will be hinged to the door lining using Blum hinges (frameless, inset) but the centre door needs to be hung off one of the others (a sort of bi-fold) and needs to be removable for service access - this is where I'm thinking of using lift-off butt hinges. Clearly, I can't just screw into the edge of the MDF so I'm considering whether to inset some softwood into the edge to accept the screws, or to make some cross-grain dowels and inserting them to take the screws, or to attempt to buy/fabricate cranked hinges that will attach to the rear face, or ... ? Sorry for the long, non-Felder-related ramble, but I'd be grateful for any comments and suggestions. Dave (in the UK)
|
Image Name
Sat 8:39am
Sat 8:39am