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Hello everyone, does anyone know how to integrate the dust extraction electrical system for my AD 951 to the machine? Both of my machines are 380 V. I want to connect my cable to my machine. I am really tired of opening the dust extraction separately every time. If anyone knows this, please write. Greetings from Turkey. -- Burak Gürer Türkiye (owner Ad 951-K740S-FB710) gurerwoodcraft/Instagram

A couple of years ago there was a discussion on pocket hole machines. Back then the Maksiwa PHM.30 was new and nobody had any experience with it. Curious if anybody has purchased one and what your thoughts are on it? It's not a Castle but appears to be more versatile than a Castle. Shop floor is formed and waiting for a break in the weather to be poured. Thanks Dave Davies

Hey Gentleman I am looking at getting a 3x4 sander. I have festool sanders which i like but the 3x4 is taller than i prefer and was looking at these two sanders. Does anyone have experience with them both that could compare them? I will use it on furniture and refinishing some exterior doors -- Michael Marsico

I know that this is a bad idea, and I have never before used butt hinges with MDF doors, but I want to explore whether anybody has been foolish enough to do the same thing - and succeed. I needed to put doors on a large cupboard that houses an oil heating boiler and an unvented hot water cylinder. The cupboard is in a utility room that may become humid so, because of the heat and (possible) humidity, I decided to use MR MDF for stability, with 80x18 rails and stiles and 6mm panels. There are 3 doors horizontally and 2 vertically, each is about 550x1160. The outer ones will be hinged to the door lining using Blum hinges (frameless, inset) but the centre door needs to be hung off one of the others (a sort of bi-fold) and needs to be removable for service access - this is where I'm thinking of using lift-off butt hinges. Clearly, I can't just screw into the edge of the MDF so I'm considering whether to inset some softwood into the edge to accept the screws, or to make some cross-grain dowels and inserting them to take the screws, or to attempt to buy/fabricate cranked hinges that will attach to the rear face, or ... ? Sorry for the long, non-Felder-related ramble, but I'd be grateful for any comments and suggestions. Dave (in the UK)

I recently sold my K700S and replaced it with a K450 X-Motion. As requested by one FOG member, these are my initial impressions of the two saws. As background, I am a retired old fogey who has done woodworking as a hobby for some 35 years. The backbone of my shop was a Delta Unisaw. It was a fine saw, but after 30+ years I was ready for something else. The K700S was a good machine, and really did everything I wanted it to do. Mine had no electronic controls, but was accurate and smooth. The upgrade to the X-Motion was largely to get the M-Motion fence and blade height, and I was also interested in the PCS system. I have never been close to having an injury with the Delta or the K700S, but if I ever did I would mentally have a hard time enjoying this hobby. In no particular order, my thoughts are as follows. Size: The K450-X is a large and heavier saw. While the rip capacity, slider length and outrigger fence are the same, the sheet metal of the K450-X is thicker. The K450-X has a much larger and sturdier outfeed table, and I find that additional working surface to be quite helpful. Overarm Guard: The overarm guard of the K450-X is much larger. At first I thought it would be awkward working around it, but that does not seem to be the case. It is much easier to move the guard out of the way, as the guard releases with a toggle instead of having to unscrew a bolt to loosen it and then walk back around the saw to re-connect it. That sounds like a small thing, but it is a big change in convenience. The dust collection hose at the overarm guard is 3 ?” diameter in the K700S and 4” on the K450-X, but I do not feel like there is a noticeable difference in the performance. Power: The K700S had a single-phase 4 kW motor, while the K450X has a 5.5kW three-phase motor. The K450-X is a more powerful saw than the K700S, but since the K700S never seemed short on power that is not a significant difference for me. The K450-X is a very noisy saw. Without measuring sound levels, it seems to be quite a bit louder than the K700S even with the same blades. Blades: Changing blades seemed easier on the K700S. I cannot quite put my finger on why it is easier. It is partly because the pins on the K700S go completely through the blade flange and the pins on the K450-A do not. I could align the flange more easily on the K700S. The K450-X will accommodate larger blades. I used 300-mm blades on the K700S (and those looked huge compared to my old 10” blades!), and I also have a couple of 350-mm and one 400-mm blade for my K450-X. Normally that is not a significant thing, but I did have one instance with my K700S where I could not cut as deeply as I wanted. A 400-mm blade is a monster! The K700S has blade pins attached to the arbor, while the blade pins on the K450-X are attached to a flange. When mounting a dado set (a Forrest Dado King, in my case) on the K700S the pins engage the dado set. On the K450-X the flange with the pins is removed to mount the dado set, so there are no pins to secure the dado set. So far I have not attempted to use the dado, so I do not know how to deal with this difference. Adjustments: Adjusting the outrigger fence for a square cut was much easier on the K700S. The mechanism is simpler, and when using a square and dial indicator I could see the change in the indicator while I made adjustments. With the K450-X I have to move the square out of the way, disconnect the fence at the adjuster, make an adjustment, and put everything back together to see if the adjustment was right. The X-Motion fence is fantastic! No more walking around the slider to adjust the fence! Using the display panel to set blade height and fence position is particularly helpful. I am in the middle of making a frame and panel chest (toybox for a grand-daughter) and I can switch back and forth between plowing grooves and making tenons, or even change a blade and cut pieces to length or width, and then go back to a previous operation by keying in the appropriate settings. That makes a change in operation, as with previous saws I had to complete all of one o

Anyone have any experience veneering hollow core doors? I’m running a vacuum press 20lbs at 5,000ft elevation. We have 8 doors to do, and have already run the hardwood edge banding and scribed to the openings. (Last year we did the original 50’s hollow cores with no issues) Did first new purchase door test with Masonite platen and collapsed the door. Probably just going to buy a solid core to use as platen but looking for any advise. Thanks!!

I'm wondering if anyone here has a source for 65mm od tooling sleeves? Omas has up to 60mm but I don't see anything at 65mm. I'd prefer to just buy one rather than machine one.

Hello I have been a member since about 2005 and this is my first post :) Recently purchased 2002 SCM T130 with 1 & 1/4" spindle. Because I have Felder machines I want to change to a 30 mm spindle on the T130. All wisdom is appreciated. Thanks in advance. Graeme.

Herkese merhaba. Yeni bir sehpa yapt?m. Masan?n üzerine 1634 par?a siyah boyal? abanoz ve aphromosia ah?ap kaplamas?ndan olu?an marquetry tekni?iyle bir ?al??ma yapt?m. Bunun i?in Antik Yunan Kylix'inden ilham ald?m. Eserin orijinali ?sko?ya Ulusal Müzesi'nde sergileniyor ve M.?. 457 y?l?na dayan?yor. Arkeoloji ve sanat tarihini sevdi?im i?in bu tür ?al??malar yapmay? seviyorum. Ayaklar? üzerinde vah?i bir ko? tasvir ettim. Beyaz me?e a?ac?ndan elle oyulmu?tu. Tarihi bir eser g?rünümü vermek i?in bronz renklerle patine ettim. 4 boynuzu masan?n sehpas?n? ta??yor. Umar?m be?enirsiniz. Türkiye'den herkese selamlar. -- Burak Gürer Türkiye (sahibi ?lan 951-K740S-FB710) gurerwoodcraft/Instagram

Hi, Today my AD741 thickness height adjustment stopped working, seemingly out of the blue. Following are the details: My AD741 has power feed, but the issue is not related to the digital drive. As a matter of fact, the numbers on the display continue to go up and down, but the table does not move. Upon opening and inspecting, I noticed that the shaft attached to the drive motor does spin (circled in red). However, the gear on the opposite side of the piston does not (circled in blue). I can manually rotate the larger gear (circled in green) which in turn will rotate the small (blue) gear as well as rise or lower the table. However, when turning either of these gears, the shaft on the opposite side of the piston (red) does not rotate. This means something connecting the shaft to the gear is broken. I had a look at the exploded parts view (attached) and it seems there is only a simple bolt (34) connecting the shaft to the gear. I have no idea if the gear is keyed at all or if the bolt only holds the gear in place by pressure. Has anybody had this happen? Is it indeed a snapped bolt or could it be a striped thread on the shaft (I won't know which would be worse)? And why would this happen during a simple rise/lower operation? Lastly, and most importantly, how do you go about repairing it? I don't want to take apart more than I absolutely must, but the bolt doesn't seem to be accessible without removing a lot of other components first .... Many thanks in advance for your help! Regards, Cornelius Schultze-Kraft Cyprus

A recent project required the use of a bunch of Lamello Tenso connectors, but was just for home so didnt want to fork out for originals. I purchased some "Lamino" clips from "Loving & Loving Oh! Store" on Ali-Express (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806995690680.html), arrived after about a week, and honestly for the price I'm quite impressed. For the Tenso connectors the clamping strength is probably ~75% of the original ones, and fit in all the 14mm slots I bored. I got some of their Clamex too, but havent had to use them in anger, but playing around with them requires a 15mm slot vs the standard 14mm one, but with a 15mm slot works just fine. a little more lateral play that original but not complaining. For ~20c per Tenso pair (vs ~$1 ea OEM, AliExpress price flucuates a bit), I was pretty happy with the result. Just sharing if anyone is after some, as I've heard some are pretty ill fitting. -Karl

Hi All, We’re rebuilding our house and will need kitchen cabinets and bathroom vanities. I had grand illusions of building the cabinets myself, even convinced my wife it was possible… haha Lots of stuff going on and I have a day job, I need to purchase. Like the Outsourced draw box discussion, any recommendations for custom, but reasonably priced cabinets? I found cabinetjoint.com that sells Conestoga cabinets, they look very nice! I got a sample from Barker cabinets (much nicer than I expected). RTA. Any other good options? Any small shops?? Assembled and local would be cool too. :) In San Jose CA. Thanks Branden