开云体育

Hi, does anyone have any personal videos of designing with their own personal tips and hacks? Recently new to this. Thanks

F1CHF added folder PCB manufacturers The following files have been uploaded to the Files area of the [email protected] group. /PCB manufacturers/pcb.txt By: F1CHF Description: following our discussion this is a list of PCB manufacteurers update are welcome F1CHF at free.fr

I saw this article come through my email this morning, and in light of recent toaster oven discussions I thought I would share it with you guys. https://www.sparkfun.com/news/3319?utm_campaign=June%2026%2C%202020&utm_medium=email&_hsmi=90262387&_hsenc=p2ANqtz-_i09gfiQjSPGRixPYKRsMF1IKPQ2dzVV7c74uHVfpjTmKXgJqX09TiV1D_aRK86B9hWWW5gKZkeOVkC7bwVKW-ckrFA4HQGVkTjgux0sSeocrPbgc&utm_content=90262131&utm_source=hs_email -Albert KI4OI

I looked through the messages for this group for the last couple years but do not see any discussion about DIY Toaster reflow ovens. I know it used to be an easy thing to find on the web but I have been searching for a few months now and all the ones Mr. Startpage (pronounced Google) has given me have been 7 to 15 years old and use obsolete and unobtainium parts. I would love to buy a T962 or T962A but the price is too high for me as I am on a fixed income. Someone on a British forum said someone was selling T962's on ebay for $129 usd but when I checked the sale it would not sell to USA. I know the T962 series would require a lot of modifications to make it dependable but that would be easier than building from scratch. Without something like the T962 series I had seen the Controleo3 but not sure what I need (the $109 kit, the $249 kit, or the $299 kit) and which toaster oven (convection or conventional). Does anyone know of a current DIY toaster reflow oven project on the web that would not cost a fortune to build? I know there was an article in a professional journal about 7 years ago that used a Black and Decker oven from Amazon but I can't find that article and do not remember what journal. Even if I find it, will it work. A friend suggested that I use an Arduino but I am not sure what the profile is supposed to look like. My idea was that it would 1. Come up to a board heat up temp (100 C maybe) 2. Hold that temp for some length of time 3. Measure the board temperature to be soldered until it comes up to temp. 4. One up to temp then raise temp to solder paste temp (450 C?) 5. Hold for a time (30 seconds?) 6, Cool down to original warm up temp (100 C) 7. Cool down to room temp before opening the door. Have I missed anything? Does anyone know of any forums that deal with this type of project? Does anyone know of a Arduino forum that deals in DIY projects? I am on a couple facebook groups but see very little in the way of actual projects and it seems that Facebook does not allow sharing files very easily where 开云体育 or Googlegroups do allow easy file sharing. The object of course is to solder smt parts to pc boards. One project I have uses a FPGA144 and a QFFN64 chip. It was suggested that I drag solder them but I do not feel comfortable doing that and the parts were rather expensive and I can't afford to use them for practice. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Thank you. Jim Pruitt

I tried an experiment making a "scribe nozzle" for my Ender 3 FDM printer. Raw pcb stock coated with Dykem layout fluid/laquer was scribed, then etched in Ferric Chloride. This was mostly a resolution test and I think it can out rather well. Here is a link to some photos of the project: https://photos.app.goo.gl/4wZiLudKFLVD9tQE8 I welcome discussion/questions!

Hey everyone, new to the group I would like to know if anyone could direct me to a supplier for smt ic templates that are reasonable? Thanks

Because attachments count against our group storage, and as moderator, handling them is either complex or impossible, no attachments will be allowed. I'm also seeing people with attachments that are no more than graphical elements added by their email program, or their signature in some kind of strange format. So please post files as either a link to where you found it (preferred) or upload it to Files or Photos. -- Steven Greenfield AE7HD

I have made a box for a pcb I have created that needs screening but the plain aluminium look is a bit boring and prone to scratching. A friend suggested anodizing as it toughens the surface and he had heard that they can then be coloured with die. I am intrigued and would like to give it a try but has anyone any experience of doing this or can point me in the right direction ??? Thanks in advance, Dave

I've been persisting for a couple of months trying to get really good boards using photo resist. I prefer the dry film method because poorly exposed boards can be stripped and recoated quite easily, which is good when you're at the left hand side of the learning curve! I've found the best method for applying the resist is using a laminator; I tried modifying a cheap home office laminator, but the rollers are too small, not firm enough and the A4 (8") width is too limited. I browsed ebay and located a professional pouch laminator, this has heated top and bottom rollers, a heated platen and a pair of output rollers; it has variable temperature from around 80C to very hot, but has fixed roller speed and although it has motor on-off, it doesn't have a connection for a foot pedal which would be a worthwhile upgrade. The method I use is to mist the board with DI water, remove the inner protective layer from the dry film for about 10mm (3/8") and apply the leading edge to the copper clad, preferably outside the area to be exposed, although I have been lucky and been able to use the leading edge to within 3mm (1/8") of the board edge. Lay the board on a piece of heavy paper that's 30 to 50mm (1 1/4" to 2") longer than the board, ensuring the film does not overhang the edges of the paper anywhere, or you will end up with film stuck to the lamionator's rollers. Ste the laminator to a low tempertaure initially; run the leading edge of the paper into the laminator then stop the motor. Now peel back the inner protective layer until you can easily hold it, then lift the film so that it's vertically oriented directly from the input to the laminator. Start the laminator's motor and carefully hold the protective layer taut to prevent wrinkles and ensure it seperates from the dry film before it enters the rollers. This takes a bit of practice, but I've got it to a point where I don't have to strip and recoat any boards now. A very important point is to make sure the copper is absolutely clean before coating; I scrub the board with a green pot scourer to remove any oxide, then thoroughly clean it with dish soap until water forms a film on the board and doesn't bead up. Note that the photopolymer layer in the dry film is highly sensitive to oxygen and will not readily polymerise in the presence of oxygen, so you must leave the outer protective layer on the film until it's ready to be developed. This film is very thin and is UV transparent, so doesn't affect the exposure process. I'm going to follow up with how I get really good photo masters, without resorting to using an imagesetter (I used to have access to machines that could image to 3600 lpi and produced extremely accurate films with an ND of > 5.0; as a development engineer, I could spend entire days running off random jobs on these machines, but alas I'm no longer in that job).

https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/240/Littelfuse_PTC_1206L_Datasheet.pdf-477012.pdf In reference to the part number 1206L010/60 (second one down in top list), I have a question. Resistance R (min) = 1.5 ohms Resistance R (1max) = 10 ohms R min = Minimum resistance of device in initial (un-soldered) state. Rtyp = No spec given. R 1max = Maximum resistance of device at 20°C measured one hour after tripping or reflow soldering of 260°C for 20 sec. Question: If I were to figure in the resistance for the PTC fuse as part of my equation for selecting the correct resitors further down the circuit...What number in ohms should I use? In other words, when the circuit is in normal operation, what will the resistance of the PTC actually be? Thanks, Dave

I have plenty of regular solder, and plenty of flux, now I need to buy some solder paste for smd stuff. Any recommendations? I would like some in a jar and also a syringe just to have both. Is no-clean solder better? Also, I just want tin/lead solder if it is still available. Thanks, Dave

On this topic of binocular microscopes....... I learned a wee bit about high power reading glasses. The ones they sell over the counter have lenses that are defined as 1 or 1.25 or 1.5 or 1.75 or 2 or 2.25 etc all the way up to 3.5 diopters. So.... I asked what the heck is a diopter? and I found that I could mail order up to 7 diopter full size lens reading glasses from READERS.com and a dozen other online glasses stores. SO next ...learn this: EACH DIOPTER SIZE will make things look bigger to you and EACH DIOPTER SIZE will have a closer focal distance from your eyeballs to your hand.... think about reading a book... with 1.5 diopter reading glasses where at arms length the letters on the page are clear...not blurry... but tiny and 2.5 diopter glasses makes everything look bigger ...but the focal length os more like the distance to a computer screen on a desk and 3.5 would be bigger and clear if you huddled over that computer screen.... OR A SOLDERING IRON and then here is where it gets fun..... 4 diopter is closer and so big that you CAN solder SMD parts and 5 diopter is bigger...but starts pushing the limit of how close you want to put your eyeballs to a soldering iron flux splatter.... so I use 5 more for inspection than soldering. and I also have 6 and 7 diopter glasses.... which make short work of removing a bee sting...... and I use all of them for different bench tasks ....much much more than I use my binocular microsope. There are $25 Headband Magnifier Headset - Magnifying Visor with 4 Real Glass Optical Lens Plates (1.5X, 2X, 2.5X, 3.5X) that are cumbersome and I never liked them so perhaps some 5 diopter reading glasses will work for you guys.

I seem to get duplicate messages (same timestamp; identical content) both in body and headers. Anyone else experiencing this? Donald. -- *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue () no proprietary attachments; no html mail /\ <http://www.georgedillon.com/web/html_email_is_evil.shtml>

I have been developing a range of usb pc oscilloscopes. I am on version 23 now. This has given me time to improve my pcb layouts using PCBCAD51. Some of my early designs were poorly routed. Things like missing ground planes, High impedance signals too close to clock signals. Lack of decoupling close to IC's. -- https://www.murtonpikesystems.co.uk

Any good sources for heavy duty pcb material? I need thick board and thick copper.

I'm trying to produce masters for photo exposure boards using tracing paper (110gsm) through my Laserjet 1020; for some reason, the toner isn't fusing to the paper and is smearing across the paper. I've tried setting the printer to transparency mode, assuming it will increase the fuser temperature for the heavier media, but it's having little to no effect. Prints on regular 70gsm paper are perfect, so the printer appears to be OK. The cartridge is fairly recently installed and is a genuine HP one.