开云体育

Includes: BN-35 Barth Multipress RP3001 3000mm c/w 3 Manual / Hydraulic Clamps and 90? Stop BM-35-10 Barth Hold Down Clamp BM-35-20 Barth Lateral Press with 2 manual R&P BM-35-42 Barth Casework support Top 3x BM-35-41 Barth Casework support Bottom 3x BM-35-55 Barth Mobility Kit BM-35-57 Mitering Frame Bond Device In excellent, almost unused condition. Asking $14500 picked up in Seattle area. I will likely regret it as it will be super expensive if I ever want to re-acquire it! As much as I want to keep it, I'm finding that I'm not doing as much of large cabinet and case work that I thought I would. May be someone can put it to much better use.

Does anyone have any experience with this product? I know Alex Boulds had mentioned the product was in development a year or so ago, but I haven't been able to find any reviews online. I'm considering adding the Grit system to my shop and the dust bin alternatives are either poorly reviewed (Clearvue or Oneida) or expensive (roto type indicators). Thanks in advance to anyone who can share their experience. Fred

Hey guys I got something here in case you have some level of OCD like me this is 3d printed tool holder for my kappa450x but I'm pretty sure it will work with other models if any one is interested let me know

Today I just hooked my blade guard dust port to my DC and removed the shop vac that had been collecting dust for the overhead portion for the dust collection. This is a temporary situation and I am considering dropping $500 to $1K for a grizzly or Harvey shark. So my question is what should I expect to be the biggest benefit? Better dust collection, better visibility and safety, more convenience, or all of the above? Currently I have only one bolt for the angle iron, so if I have a wider piece I will be able to loosen the bolt and rotate it away pretty quickly. Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated about the relative benefits and improvements that I should expect. Thanks, Mike -- Mike

Hi all, Just thought i would post a link to my latest video. It's a review on the CF741 so should be of interest to anyone considering this type of machine. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3vxkw6WTcis Regards, Bryce -- https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw

I’m wrestling with how to raise an FB710 bandsaw to vertical beneath a 9’ ceiling. The setup guide presumes I have a high ceiling and overhead crane - nope. I’ve looked at renting a 2-ton gantry, but even if I were to raise its beam up into the gap between two ceiling joists (basement unfinished as of yet), when I subtract from that ~10’ height the vertical distance from the top of the beam to the trolley eyelet, that only leaves about 1’ to spare for a winch before I run out of vertical distance needed for the saw to stand up in. From what I’ve been told, that 1’ isn’t enough for a winch and its attachments. I’m now considering building a wooden gantry and using a hand-cranked winch, which I think I can make work. While I do have a tiny bit of past experience doing exactly that to lift a 600 lb kamado grill into it’s carriage, I’ll probably over-design the thing and wind up with something that will lift a Mack truck. I’m wondering if others have dealt with this situation and what their solutions are. Thanks in advance, Doug

What is the best way to achieve a bead like below around the outside perimeter of the door? Imran Malik IAM Wood Creations https://www.facebook.com/groups/362481112015700/?ref=share

The following items have been added to the Files area of the [email protected] group. /3D Printer Files/Felder splinter block.stl By: Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> Description: Splinter block for Pre-X-Roll 700 series machines

I worked with fellow FOGer Tom Fulmer on fine tuning the 3D printed dust chute adapter for the Hammer machines. After quite a few iterations I have a solution that actually works. Hopefull nobody printed the first one I posted, it was a pretty bad failure... that's what happens when I do things without proper measurements and engineering. Any way, if anybody wants one, I'd be happy to print some, contact me off the list at blamb11@... I'll attach a 3D PDF file of what it looks like, which is easier to see how it all works than in pictures. It slips on the dust chute and then hangs off the metal ears sticking out off the sides. Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com

Has anyone here ever experienced fence plate alignment issues on their f700 series shaper? I’ve had an F700z shaper in the shop since August 22’. It appears that the outboard fence tapers in to the center making for a fence plate surface that’s not coplanar. Upon closer inspection today I noticed that the plate has a bit of play when tight. I’m able to flex the inside edge of the outboard fence out to be in line with the inboard fence. Is there an adjustment screw for the tightening mechanism that would sort this out or is my fence casting defective?

I'm leaning toward the Fs41ES for a couple reasons: A. Cheaper B. Can be picked up locally in LA. C. Both machines are probably going to be. overkill for my use, but I like the power height adjustment and ease of change over relative to the cheaper machines. My main problem with the Scm vs the Felder is the fence cylinder in the back that requires to have the machine sit 16" from the wall- can someone please verify that vs the felder? And of course any input would be appreciated! Thanks

Hi all, Just thought i would give everyone using the M503 digital readouts a heads up on a potential issue. This may simply be a case of "you get what you pay for" & i'm ok with that sometimes. I originally used one of these DRO's on the crosscut fence of my old machine. Well i took that one off my old machine when i sold it, and have been using it on my new machine for the past year or so. It's been dead on accurate the whole time, so much so, i decided to see if i could make something work for the rip side of my CF741. That too worked, however i was never happy with the way the mag tape just hung in no-man's land at the gap between the saw/shaper table, and the jointer outfeed table. I figured that would some day become an issue, but trying to find time to fix the issue wasn't easy. Finally i put some thought to it, and added some aluminum angle to the saw side as support, and put on a new mag tape to get the join slightly further towards the jointer side, since the old tape didn't line up exactly. This is where cracks started to appear in the system. I can only assume this is an issue with the magnetic tape, since that is the only thing i have changed, but now i don't seem to be getting an accurate reading. I can "zero" the fence to my known position, but then either side of that point, it seems to creep out roughly 1mm either side. One thing i have added this time around was the thin metal adhesive backed strip that is supplied with the magnetic tape. I assume this is simply to protect the magnetic tape? Could this be the casue of this innacuracy? I guess that is where i should start, by removing it, and seeing if the accuracy improves. If not, then it will be the tape itself & i will try replacing that. I will let you know how i get on, but wanted to give others a heads up, since this has basically rendered mine useless until i sort it out. Regards, Bryce -- https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw

Hi there all, I'm sure this has been discussed many times here, but I'm looking for a cross cut blade for my kf700 for hardwoods. Material thickness 30mm+ I have a tenryu 60 tooth blade and it has been good. Looking for an 80ish tooth 300mm blade and thinking ATAFR grind to give a flat cut (crosscut rebating) but am unsure when it comes to kerf and particularly rake. Positive/ neutral/ negative for hard woods. I assume a thinner kerf is the way to go? Tenryu PP-30075AB 300mm -75 tooth looks good but $310 aud. Please any recommendations on specs/ blades Thanks again. Chris.

This has nothing to do with Felder, but I hope some of you might have suggestions. I plan to use veneered plywood on a section of the ceiling in my house, however I have no idea how to treat the joints between drywall and plywood. Using just mud is not going to look good even if it is done really well and most likely it will eventually crack. Has anyone done this and if so how did you treat the joints? Also, what can you recommend for hidden fasteners as I do not want to use screws. Thanks a lot! Mariusz

Any thoughts on using vinyl tiles for a workshop floor? https://www.armstrongflooring.com/commercial/en-us/products/vinyl-composition-tile/std-excelon-imp-texture/item/51860.html with 4,000 sq ft to cover I'm exploring options. I've seen LVT that snap together but those seem to scratch fairly easily. With vinyl tile if there was damage you could replace single tiles if needed. These would be much cheaper than an epoxy floor. Thanks Dave Davies