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Saw blade for cross cut.


 

Hi there all, I'm sure this has been discussed many times here, but I'm looking for a cross cut blade for my kf700 for hardwoods. Material thickness 30mm+
I have a tenryu 60 tooth blade and it has been good.
?
Looking for an 80ish tooth 300mm blade and thinking ATAFR grind to give a flat cut (crosscut rebating) but am unsure when it comes to kerf and particularly rake. Positive/ neutral/ negative for hard woods. I assume a thinner kerf is the way to go?
?
Tenryu PP-30075AB 300mm -75 tooth looks good but $310 aud.
?
Please any recommendations on specs/ blades
Thanks again.
Chris.
?
?


 

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Chris, Below is a response I posted some time ago on my FB group. Here is the list of blades from Tenryu for sliding table saws and the PN for ATAFR is?IW-300100AB3


***
It is very helpful to think this out. One should try to get all blades with same kerf so all scales and riving knife remain true.

I started with Felder silent power (315 mm, 28 & 48 teeth ATB) on my 2002 KF without scoring option and the are fine. 3.2 mm kerf. I can’t comment to what max blade you can use with and without scoring on your KF but it should be in the manual.

I have been using Tenryu on my K975 and they are good blades. 300/350 mm dia and 28, 50 & 32 teeth ATB. 350 does not go under table.

IW-30028CBD3 (0.128 kerf)
IW-30050CBD3 (0.128 kerf)
IW-35032CBD3 (0.136 kerf)

David P Best uses the 50 teeth above for both rip and xcut and says it works fine.

Sliders do work better with less hook so do look for blades specifically made for sliders. Hopefully this helps.
**

Imran Malik
IAM Wood Creations

On Mar 31, 2025, at 7:35?AM, Chris via groups.io <Hope752@...> wrote:

?
Hi there all, I'm sure this has been discussed many times here, but I'm looking for a cross cut blade for my kf700 for hardwoods. Material thickness 30mm+
I have a tenryu 60 tooth blade and it has been good.
?
Looking for an 80ish tooth 300mm blade and thinking ATAFR grind to give a flat cut (crosscut rebating) but am unsure when it comes to kerf and particularly rake. Positive/ neutral/ negative for hard woods. I assume a thinner kerf is the way to go?
?
Tenryu PP-30075AB 300mm -75 tooth looks good but $310 aud.
?
Please any recommendations on specs/ blades
Thanks again.
Chris.
?
?


 

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Chris, I should have added that in my experience one does not need high tooth count for cross cutting solid wood. The PN I shared below, you can see in application column, is recommended for veneer plywood.

Imran Malik
IAM Wood Creations

On Mar 31, 2025, at 9:13?AM, Imran Malik <imranwoodshop@...> wrote:

?Chris, Below is a response I posted some time ago on my FB group. Here is the list of blades from Tenryu for sliding table saws and the PN for ATAFR is?IW-300100AB3


***
It is very helpful to think this out. One should try to get all blades with same kerf so all scales and riving knife remain true.

I started with Felder silent power (315 mm, 28 & 48 teeth ATB) on my 2002 KF without scoring option and the are fine. 3.2 mm kerf. I can’t comment to what max blade you can use with and without scoring on your KF but it should be in the manual.

I have been using Tenryu on my K975 and they are good blades. 300/350 mm dia and 28, 50 & 32 teeth ATB. 350 does not go under table.

IW-30028CBD3 (0.128 kerf)
IW-30050CBD3 (0.128 kerf)
IW-35032CBD3 (0.136 kerf)

David P Best uses the 50 teeth above for both rip and xcut and says it works fine.

Sliders do work better with less hook so do look for blades specifically made for sliders. Hopefully this helps.
**

Imran Malik
IAM Wood Creations

On Mar 31, 2025, at 7:35?AM, Chris via groups.io <Hope752@...> wrote:

?
Hi there all, I'm sure this has been discussed many times here, but I'm looking for a cross cut blade for my kf700 for hardwoods. Material thickness 30mm+
I have a tenryu 60 tooth blade and it has been good.
?
Looking for an 80ish tooth 300mm blade and thinking ATAFR grind to give a flat cut (crosscut rebating) but am unsure when it comes to kerf and particularly rake. Positive/ neutral/ negative for hard woods. I assume a thinner kerf is the way to go?
?
Tenryu PP-30075AB 300mm -75 tooth looks good but $310 aud.
?
Please any recommendations on specs/ blades
Thanks again.
Chris.
?
?


 

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Way too many teeth called to make a great blade that’s inexpensive and I think it’s 300 diameter and 20 tooth maybe or 28 tooth AB replace.
Mac,,

martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell

Designing and building for 50 years


On Mar 31, 2025, at 8:25?AM, imran via groups.io <imranwoodshop@...> wrote:

?
Chris, I should have added that in my experience one does not need high tooth count for cross cutting solid wood. The PN I shared below, you can see in application column, is recommended for veneer plywood.

Imran Malik
IAM Wood Creations

On Mar 31, 2025, at 9:13?AM, Imran Malik <imranwoodshop@...> wrote:

?Chris, Below is a response I posted some time ago on my FB group. Here is the list of blades from Tenryu for sliding table saws and the PN for ATAFR is?IW-300100AB3


***
It is very helpful to think this out. One should try to get all blades with same kerf so all scales and riving knife remain true.

I started with Felder silent power (315 mm, 28 & 48 teeth ATB) on my 2002 KF without scoring option and the are fine. 3.2 mm kerf. I can’t comment to what max blade you can use with and without scoring on your KF but it should be in the manual.

I have been using Tenryu on my K975 and they are good blades. 300/350 mm dia and 28, 50 & 32 teeth ATB. 350 does not go under table.

IW-30028CBD3 (0.128 kerf)
IW-30050CBD3 (0.128 kerf)
IW-35032CBD3 (0.136 kerf)

David P Best uses the 50 teeth above for both rip and xcut and says it works fine.

Sliders do work better with less hook so do look for blades specifically made for sliders. Hopefully this helps.
**

Imran Malik
IAM Wood Creations

On Mar 31, 2025, at 7:35?AM, Chris via groups.io <Hope752@...> wrote:

?
Hi there all, I'm sure this has been discussed many times here, but I'm looking for a cross cut blade for my kf700 for hardwoods. Material thickness 30mm+
I have a tenryu 60 tooth blade and it has been good.
?
Looking for an 80ish tooth 300mm blade and thinking ATAFR grind to give a flat cut (crosscut rebating) but am unsure when it comes to kerf and particularly rake. Positive/ neutral/ negative for hard woods. I assume a thinner kerf is the way to go?
?
Tenryu PP-30075AB 300mm -75 tooth looks good but $310 aud.
?
Please any recommendations on specs/ blades
Thanks again.
Chris.
?
?


 

It's more than what you're looking for, but I use the 100 tooth Tenryu IW-300100AB3 blade for crosscutting.?? It is excellent for both plywood as well as hardwood.? The cut finish is just about "planed" quality.? Sometimes, you have to be careful because the corner edges are so sharp that I've cut myself.? It's actually the same blade I used in my recently posted butcher block cut video and the cut result was perfect (which is 57mm thick maple).? You just need to go relatively slow:
?
It is an ATAFR grind (with raker) and has a shallow 10 degree rake. It is not a general purpose blade and you definitely do not want to use it for ripping, so it is pretty much a "cross-cut only" blade.
?
I have been switching between this blade the the 28-tooth IW-30028CBD3 blade (for ripping).?? The 28-tooth blade has an aggressive 25 degree rake and does fine for ripping, but the cut always leaves blade marks that have to be sanded out.?? I just picked up the generally recommended 50-tooth blade IW-30050CBD3 to see how this works as a general purpose (it's only slightly less aggressive at 20 degree rake).? All three of these are 0.128 kerf and I like having same kerf so that I don't have to re-calibrate my flipstop every time I switch a blade.
?
I can post my results later if anyone is interested.
?
-Aaron
?
?


 


 
Edited

Thanks Imran,
I actually think I have the 50 - Tenryu IW-30050CBD3 300mm not 60.
When you say a sliding saw with less hook, do you mean negative? Or just low positive say 0-5°.
I do have a scriber - Felder adjustable one but haven't used it yet as I dont work with much sheet material. My max blade would be about 305mm I think with the scriber. Is the default riving knife designed for a 3.2mm blade?
Thanks again,
Chris.


 

开云体育

Hi Chris,

Hook or rake are used interchangeably. I am not a blade design level expert rather a user who reads and thinks a lot. I have only had blades with negative hook for non-ferrous metals. Here is a short read with more detail:


As for the riving knife, I am not sure if there is one default. Machines with bigger blade (thicker plate) capability likely come with thicker riving knives.

Riving knife, as you may know already, needs to be thicker than blade plate and thinner than blade kerf. I believe I had a 2.8 mm riving knife with 3.2 mm Kerf blade which had a 2.2 mm plate.

HTH,

Imran Malik
IAM Wood Creations

On Apr 1, 2025, at 8:13?AM, Chris via groups.io <Hope752@...> wrote:

?
Thanks Imran,
I actually think I have the 50, not 60.
When you say a sliding saw with less hook, do you mean negative? Or just low positive say 0-5°.
I do have a scriber - Felder adjustable one but haven't used it yet as I dont work with much sheet material. My max blade would be about 305mm I think with the scriber. Is the default riding knife designed for a 3.2mm blade?
Thanks again,
Chris.


 
Edited

Im using forrest blades. Usa made. ?I like the duraline for xcut and the woodworker ii for ripping. You can ship them the blades to have them retoothed and or sharpened. They will also add the pin holes for sliders for blades that you have without them. 11$ each.?


 

I don't think I necessarily agree with the statement "Sliders do work better with less hook" -- if you equate hook with meaning the same as rake angle.? I have tried in one instance using my 10 degree rake blade for ripping and it did not work well at all.? There was a lot of resistance for feed rate (required more pressure to push the wood through the saw) and I commonly got burn marks.? For ripping, you definitely need a higher rake angle on the blade tooth.
?
I guess think of it this way.? A higher rake angle (20 or 25 degree) will act more like a shovel to scoop larger sections of wood out when doing the cut.?? A shallower rake angle (5 or 10 degree) will act more like a grinder wheel than a shovel.? Obviously, this is an extreme analogy, but hopefully you get the concept.
?
I think the link to the Tenryu chart that Imram provided is actually a pretty good recommendation.? It shows a higher 20 or 25 degree rake angle for anything doing ripping.?? Then shallower 10 or 15 degree rake angle for crosscuts.? The only negative degree rake is for melomine and laminates.?? In other Tenryu charts, the only time I see a negative rake is on miter saw or radial arm saw (which are essentially cross-cut only machines) and, of course, metal cutting applications.
?
Based on the chart, my 10 degree blade is actually recommended for plywood only, but I found it works great for hardwoods as well (though, it still might not be as optimum as a 15 degree rake).
?
-Aaron Inami


 

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I’m running a Ridge Carbide brand blade model, TS21248-A with 30mm pinholes. ?
It performs very similar to the characteristics that Aaron described as well. ?But It’s a +20 rake, and is HORRIBLE at ripping solid stock. ?I use it as a combination blade because I cut a lot of sheet stock, and it performs great with sheet ripping and cross cutting. ?It also performs well with solid stock cross cutting. ?But forget about it ripping the solid stuff. ?I switch to lower tooth count blade for this milling process. ?

Thx,

Wade

On Apr 1, 2025, at 10:45 AM, Aaron Inami <ainami@...> wrote:

?
I don't think I necessarily agree with the statement "Sliders do work better with less hook" -- if you equate hook with meaning the same as rake angle.? I have tried in one instance using my 10 degree rake blade for ripping and it did not work well at all.? There was a lot of resistance for feed rate (required more pressure to push the wood through the saw) and I commonly got burn marks.? For ripping, you definitely need a higher rake angle on the blade tooth.
?
I guess think of it this way.? A higher rake angle (20 or 25 degree) will act more like a shovel to scoop larger sections of wood out when doing the cut.?? A shallower rake angle (5 or 10 degree) will act more like a grinder wheel than a shovel.? Obviously, this is an extreme analogy, but hopefully you get the concept.
?
I think the link to the Tenryu chart that Imram provided is actually a pretty good recommendation.? It shows a higher 20 or 25 degree rake angle for anything doing ripping.?? Then shallower 10 or 15 degree rake angle for crosscuts.? The only negative degree rake is for melomine and laminates.?? In other Tenryu charts, the only time I see a negative rake is on miter saw or radial arm saw (which are essentially cross-cut only machines) and, of course, metal cutting applications.
?
Based on the chart, my 10 degree blade is actually recommended for plywood only, but I found it works great for hardwoods as well (though, it still might not be as optimum as a 15 degree rake).
?
-Aaron Inami


 

开云体育

Aaron,

You are right, I should have prefaced that statement with “In General”. It was a response I copied from a thread on my FB group and sometimes they are not perfectly phrased.

The issue with a cut with moving material or a moving blade is the tendency to self feed. Therefore, the recommendations are more for safety than performance or quality of cut. If the material is clamped and the feed rate can be controlled then the blade that is recommended for standard ripping and cross cutting could be used on a slider as well.

Generalities are well generalities. This is why I shared the Tenryu table so one can see the options from the manufacturer and the link to the short article to share the basics.

Imran Malik
IAM Wood Creations

On Apr 1, 2025, at 1:45?PM, Aaron Inami via groups.io <ainami@...> wrote:

?
I don't think I necessarily agree with the statement "Sliders do work better with less hook" -- if you equate hook with meaning the same as rake angle.? I have tried in one instance using my 10 degree rake blade for ripping and it did not work well at all.? There was a lot of resistance for feed rate (required more pressure to push the wood through the saw) and I commonly got burn marks.? For ripping, you definitely need a higher rake angle on the blade tooth.
?
I guess think of it this way.? A higher rake angle (20 or 25 degree) will act more like a shovel to scoop larger sections of wood out when doing the cut.?? A shallower rake angle (5 or 10 degree) will act more like a grinder wheel than a shovel.? Obviously, this is an extreme analogy, but hopefully you get the concept.
?
I think the link to the Tenryu chart that Imram provided is actually a pretty good recommendation.? It shows a higher 20 or 25 degree rake angle for anything doing ripping.?? Then shallower 10 or 15 degree rake angle for crosscuts.? The only negative degree rake is for melomine and laminates.?? In other Tenryu charts, the only time I see a negative rake is on miter saw or radial arm saw (which are essentially cross-cut only machines) and, of course, metal cutting applications.
?
Based on the chart, my 10 degree blade is actually recommended for plywood only, but I found it works great for hardwoods as well (though, it still might not be as optimum as a 15 degree rake).
?
-Aaron Inami