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Totally unrelated question
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This has nothing to do with Felder, but I hope some of you might have suggestions. I plan to use veneered plywood on a section of the ceiling in my house, however I have no idea how to treat the joints between drywall and plywood. Using just mud is not going to look good even if it is done really well and most likely it will eventually crack. Has anyone done this and if so how did you treat the joints??
Also, what can you recommend for hidden fasteners as I do not want to use screws.
Thanks a lot!
Mariusz
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Hi Mariusz,
I usually finish such a drywall edge with a j-bead and then mount?the?plywood next to?the already finished edge. No way (and no?point really) of hiding a joint between two such vastly different materials.?
As for your second question, it depends on many factors - what thickness?ply, what is the surface area of your ply, what is your ceiling framework (metal stud, wood stud, concrete slab), etc.
Cornelius Schultze-Kraft
Cyprus
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Thank you Cornelius!?
Framework is all metal studs (every 40cm on center). I thought about using standard wallboard thickness of 12.5mm, so I would probably order either 12mm or 13mm plywood, unless you recommend something thicker for this type of application.?
The surface of the ceiling I would be covering is small, about 3.5m x 2.5m, so I might be using full size plywood sheets (1250x2500mm).
?
I will also be using plywood on a wall, in this case walls are ceramic blocks (Porotherm Dryfix) and for this as well I would like to use some kind of hidden fasteners, so any suggestions would be great!
?
Mariusz
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This place has what you need, I used to use their Z-clips for hanging items a lot.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Sunday, March 30, 2025 at 07:22:25 AM MST, mariusz_m via groups.io <mariusz_m@...> wrote:
Thank you Cornelius!?
Framework is all metal studs (every 40cm on center). I thought about using standard wallboard thickness of 12.5mm, so I would probably order either 12mm or 13mm plywood, unless you recommend something thicker for this type of application.?
The surface of the ceiling I would be covering is small, about 3.5m x 2.5m, so I might be using full size plywood sheets (1250x2500mm).
?
I will also be using plywood on a wall, in this case walls are ceramic blocks (Porotherm Dryfix) and for this as well I would like to use some kind of hidden fasteners, so any suggestions would be great!
?
Mariusz
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Mariusz,
This is one style I’ve used numerous times also just a butt line with a steel profile the z shadow you might say it’s more forgiving.
By the way just started using the 30 mm spindle for the Gomad again thank you.
Best mac,,,
martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell
Designing and building for 50 years
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On Mar 30, 2025, at 6:11?AM, mariusz_m via groups.io <mariusz_m@...> wrote:
?
This has nothing to do with Felder, but I hope some of you might have suggestions. I plan to use veneered plywood on a section of the ceiling in my house, however I have no idea how to treat the joints between drywall and plywood. Using just mud is not going to look good even if it is done really well and most likely it will eventually crack. Has anyone done this and if so how did you treat the joints??
Also, what can you recommend for hidden fasteners as I do not want to use screws.
Thanks a lot!
Mariusz
Thank you Brian and Mac!
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Mac, I’m glad the spindle worked out at the end!
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Hi Mariusz
I am an architect. Joins between different materials are always complicated.? The simplest treatment is to create a deliberate "shadow line".? This can be a fixed gap between the ply and the wall? sheet. Alternatively cut a shallow rebate in the veneered material at the wall.? This could be painted to emphasise the line or even taken as an opportunity to insert LED strip lighting around the perimeter of the room.
Regards
Clinton
Thank you Brian and Mac!
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Mac, I’m glad the spindle worked out at the end!
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Hi Mariusz
Clinton's suggestion is what came to mind when I read your post.??
In addition to that, having the "shadow area" including edges of the ply all black helps too. (check out this Scott Brown video.. ? ) It shows how they solved many of the problems.
Not sure if this is a good idea or not, but you could potentially run LED strip lighting in some of the shadow lines.
?
Cheers, David
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For the ceiling, I'd be more comfortable with locking buttons instead of z-clips.
On Sun, Mar 30, 2025 at 07:30, Brian Lamb via groups.io < blamb11@...> wrote:
This place has what you need, I used to use their Z-clips for hanging items a lot.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
lambtoolworks.com
On Sunday, March 30, 2025 at 07:22:25 AM MST, mariusz_m via groups.io <mariusz_m@...> wrote:
Thank you Cornelius!?
Framework is all metal studs (every 40cm on center). I thought about using standard wallboard thickness of 12.5mm, so I would probably order either 12mm or 13mm plywood, unless you recommend something thicker for this type of application.?
The surface of the ceiling I would be covering is small, about 3.5m x 2.5m, so I might be using full size plywood sheets (1250x2500mm).
?
I will also be using plywood on a wall, in this case walls are ceramic blocks (Porotherm Dryfix) and for this as well I would like to use some kind of hidden fasteners, so any suggestions would be great!
?
Mariusz
|
Unless you can find a supply house with z bead in town that has it in stock you have to buy a whole case…I spent a half day running around Cincinnati and calling all supply houses to find nothing.?
To make a shadow gap I ended up using L bead to make a half inch shadow gap where I used flashing to cover up the exposed joint on a hood I am making for my kitchen where old and new drywall meet a vaulted wall section.?
--
Stan Blaszczyk
Causal Maker of Stuff
Cincinnati, OH
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Here are a couple pictures of a renovation job my neighborhood maybe 15 years ago first picture is 68 mm standard US store with a 56 mm jam then is the z profile and Plaster Second picture is a stationary sash 68 mm jams then Z profile than dry wall . In other words would to drywall with the reveal Mac,,,
  Designing and building for 50 years
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Show quoted text
On Mar 31, 2025, at 9:18?AM, Stan Blaszczyk via groups.io <blaszcsj@...> wrote:
? [Edited Message Follows]
Unless you can find a supply house with z bead in town that has it in stock you have to buy a whole case…I spent a half day running around Cincinnati and calling all supply houses to find nothing.?
To make a shadow gap I ended up using L bead to make a half inch shadow gap where I used flashing to cover up the exposed joint on a hood I am making for my kitchen where old and new drywall meet a vaulted wall section.?
--
Stan Blaszczyk
Causal Maker of Stuff
Cincinnati, OH
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The Z-clips are not for mounting panels, more like picture/object hanging. They make mounting systems for ceiling and wall panels as well.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Monday, March 31, 2025 at 07:18:24 AM MST, Stan Blaszczyk via groups.io <blaszcsj@...> wrote:
[Edited Message Follows]
Unless you can find a supply house with z bead in town that has it in stock you have to buy a whole case…I spent a half day running around Cincinnati and calling all supply houses to find nothing.?
To make a shadow gap I ended up using L bead to make a half inch shadow gap where I used flashing to cover up the exposed joint on a hood I am making for my kitchen where old and new drywall meet a vaulted wall section.?
--
Stan Blaszczyk
Causal Maker of Stuff
Cincinnati, OH
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Thank you very much guys, I really appreciate your help!
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Mariusz
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I did the same "shadow" thing in my house with jambs and baseboards using Trimtex z bead [1]. It was not the easiest thing to find, but two drywall supply stores within forty minutes drive stocked it in 1/2 and would bring in other sizes if you were to buy a whole case. (Incidentally, I still have half a case lying around if anyone wants to haul it out.)
If I were to do it again, I would try and use aluminum profile instead of the vinyl. The benefits of vinyl is three times less cost and much simpler installation. However, at least at my skill level, it is painfully hard to get consistently straight lines. Your mileage my vary.
1:?
On Monday, March 31st, 2025 at 7:49 AM, mac campshure via groups.io <mac512002@...> wrote:
Here are a couple pictures of a renovation job my neighborhood maybe 15 years ago first picture is 68 mm standard US store with a 56 mm jam then is the z profile and Plaster Second picture is a stationary sash 68 mm jams then Z profile than dry wall . In other words would to drywall with the reveal Mac,,,
 
Designing and building for 50 years On Mar 31, 2025, at 9:18?AM, Stan Blaszczyk via groups.io <blaszcsj@...> wrote:
? [Edited Message Follows]
Unless you can find a supply house with z bead in town that has it in stock you have to buy a whole case…I spent a half day running around Cincinnati and calling all supply houses to find nothing.?
To make a shadow gap I ended up using L bead to make a half inch shadow gap where I used flashing to cover up the exposed joint on a hood I am making for my kitchen where old and new drywall meet a vaulted wall section.?
--
Stan Blaszczyk
Causal Maker of Stuff
Cincinnati, OH
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Everything the plaster is used was the aluminum profile and when I did work at my house with Plaster, I don’t use drywall. I use steel profiles. Designing and building for 50 years
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Show quoted text
On Mar 31, 2025, at 3:24?PM, Stan K via groups.io <4279427@...> wrote:
? I did the same "shadow" thing in my house with jambs and baseboards using Trimtex z bead [1]. It was not the easiest thing to find, but two drywall supply stores within forty minutes drive stocked it in 1/2 and would bring in other sizes if you were to buy a whole case. (Incidentally, I still have half a case lying around if anyone wants to haul it out.)
If I were to do it again, I would try and use aluminum profile instead of the vinyl. The benefits of vinyl is three times less cost and much simpler installation. However, at least at my skill level, it is painfully hard to get consistently straight lines. Your mileage my vary.
1:?
On Monday, March 31st, 2025 at 7:49 AM, mac campshure via groups.io <mac512002@...> wrote:
Here are a couple pictures of a renovation job my neighborhood maybe 15 years ago first picture is 68 mm standard US store with a 56 mm jam then is the z profile and Plaster Second picture is a stationary sash 68 mm jams then Z profile than dry wall . In other words would to drywall with the reveal Mac,,,
<IMG_6395.jpeg> <IMG_6394.jpeg>
Designing and building for 50 years On Mar 31, 2025, at 9:18?AM, Stan Blaszczyk via groups.io <blaszcsj@...> wrote:
? [Edited Message Follows]
Unless you can find a supply house with z bead in town that has it in stock you have to buy a whole case…I spent a half day running around Cincinnati and calling all supply houses to find nothing.?
To make a shadow gap I ended up using L bead to make a half inch shadow gap where I used flashing to cover up the exposed joint on a hood I am making for my kitchen where old and new drywall meet a vaulted wall section.?
--
Stan Blaszczyk
Causal Maker of Stuff
Cincinnati, OH
<IMG_6395.jpeg> <IMG_6394.jpeg> <publickey - 4279427@... - 0xCAA04E5D.asc>
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