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Any thoughts on using vinyl tiles for a workshop floor?
?
https://www.armstrongflooring.com/commercial/en-us/products/vinyl-composition-tile/std-excelon-imp-texture/item/51860.html
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with 4,000 sq ft to cover I'm exploring options.? I've seen LVT that snap together but those seem to scratch fairly easily.? With vinyl tile if there was damage you could replace single tiles if needed.? These would be much cheaper than an epoxy floor.
?
?
Thanks
Dave Davies
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Hi Dave Davies,
Trucor LVP is bullet proof in my opinion!
Great stuff and installs easily, in both directions too.?
Thx,
Wade
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On Mar 28, 2025, at 7:17?AM, David Davies via groups.io <myfinishingtouch@...> wrote:
? Any thoughts on using vinyl tiles for a workshop floor?
?
https://www.armstrongflooring.com/commercial/en-us/products/vinyl-composition-tile/std-excelon-imp-texture/item/51860.html
?
with 4,000 sq ft to cover I'm exploring options.? I've seen LVT that snap together but those seem to scratch fairly easily.? With vinyl tile if there was damage you could replace single tiles if needed.? These would be much cheaper than an epoxy floor.
?
?
Thanks
Dave Davies
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My question is why what’s wrong with the nice concrete floor you’ve got seems like a nice to me. It’s a shop floor. It’s not your kitchen. Designing and building for 50 years
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On Mar 28, 2025, at 10:26?AM, Wade Dees via groups.io <wjdsignature@...> wrote:
? Hi Dave Davies,
Trucor LVP is bullet proof in my opinion!
Great stuff and installs easily, in both directions too.?
Thx,
Wade
On Mar 28, 2025, at 7:17?AM, David Davies via groups.io <myfinishingtouch@...> wrote:
? Any thoughts on using vinyl tiles for a workshop floor?
?
https://www.armstrongflooring.com/commercial/en-us/products/vinyl-composition-tile/std-excelon-imp-texture/item/51860.html
?
with 4,000 sq ft to cover I'm exploring options.? I've seen LVT that snap together but those seem to scratch fairly easily.? With vinyl tile if there was damage you could replace single tiles if needed.? These would be much cheaper than an epoxy floor.
?
?
Thanks
Dave Davies
|
I'm going to have a two post lift and do auto repair in the front half of that picture and I don't want to get the concrete stained. Dave Davies
On Fri, Mar 28, 2025 at 1:02?PM mac campshure via <mac512002= [email protected]> wrote: My question is why what’s wrong with the nice concrete floor you’ve got seems like a nice to me. It’s a shop floor. It’s not your kitchen. Designing and building for 50 years ? Hi Dave Davies,
Trucor LVP is bullet proof in my opinion!
Great stuff and installs easily, in both directions too.?
Thx,
Wade
On Mar 28, 2025, at 7:17?AM, David Davies via <myfinishingtouch=[email protected]> wrote:
? Any thoughts on using vinyl tiles for a workshop floor?
?
?
with 4,000 sq ft to cover I'm exploring options.? I've seen LVT that snap together but those seem to scratch fairly easily.? With vinyl tile if there was damage you could replace single tiles if needed.? These would be much cheaper than an epoxy floor.
?
?
Thanks
Dave Davies
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
That’s what cat litter is for Designing and building for 50 years
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On Mar 28, 2025, at 1:03?PM, David Davies via groups.io <myfinishingtouch@...> wrote:
? I'm going to have a two post lift and do auto repair in the front half of that picture and I don't want to get the concrete stained. Dave Davies On Fri, Mar 28, 2025 at 1:02?PM mac campshure via <mac512002= [email protected]> wrote: My question is why what’s wrong with the nice concrete floor you’ve got seems like a nice to me. It’s a shop floor. It’s not your kitchen. Designing and building for 50 years ? Hi Dave Davies,
Trucor LVP is bullet proof in my opinion!
Great stuff and installs easily, in both directions too.?
Thx,
Wade
On Mar 28, 2025, at 7:17?AM, David Davies via <myfinishingtouch=[email protected]> wrote:
? Any thoughts on using vinyl tiles for a workshop floor?
?
?
with 4,000 sq ft to cover I'm exploring options.? I've seen LVT that snap together but those seem to scratch fairly easily.? With vinyl tile if there was damage you could replace single tiles if needed.? These would be much cheaper than an epoxy floor.
?
?
Thanks
Dave Davies
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
I highly recommend looking up changes your whole outlook on life Designing and building for 50 years
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On Mar 28, 2025, at 1:18?PM, mac campshure <mac512002@...> wrote:
? That’s what cat litter is for Designing and building for 50 years On Mar 28, 2025, at 1:03?PM, David Davies via groups.io <myfinishingtouch@...> wrote:
? I'm going to have a two post lift and do auto repair in the front half of that picture and I don't want to get the concrete stained. Dave Davies On Fri, Mar 28, 2025 at 1:02?PM mac campshure via <mac512002= [email protected]> wrote: My question is why what’s wrong with the nice concrete floor you’ve got seems like a nice to me. It’s a shop floor. It’s not your kitchen. Designing and building for 50 years ? Hi Dave Davies,
Trucor LVP is bullet proof in my opinion!
Great stuff and installs easily, in both directions too.?
Thx,
Wade
On Mar 28, 2025, at 7:17?AM, David Davies via <myfinishingtouch=[email protected]> wrote:
? Any thoughts on using vinyl tiles for a workshop floor?
?
?
with 4,000 sq ft to cover I'm exploring options.? I've seen LVT that snap together but those seem to scratch fairly easily.? With vinyl tile if there was damage you could replace single tiles if needed.? These would be much cheaper than an epoxy floor.
?
?
Thanks
Dave Davies
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
David,
?
I have been considering epoxy to? cover my 20 year old stained concrete floor.? It's getting pretty bad.? ?I did not know vinyl tile was a less expensive option.? Is that cost comparison with labor installed?? ?
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I have seen the plastic and rubber snap key systems but did not like the thickness nor the non-solid feel.? I haven't gotten serious yet but understand there are some "epoxy" products to avoid and, like all coating systems, preparation is key.? Clean up, color and pattern will also determine the system. I'm thinking a lighter, solid color for better ambient lighting and to be able to find #2 setscrews and 1/16" circlips.?
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I like the 1/8" thickness, soft gray color/pattern and glue down installation.? I will be interested in which direction you go.?
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Hi David,
?
I too built my 2400SF shop with the intent of using part of it for automotive and metal work. ?I installed a two post lift with a 13,000lb capacity. ?I was a heavy equipment mechanic, starting very young, until I changed course and became a firefighter. ?I continued to do mechanic work for family, friends, and myself for the past 50 years while earning a paycheck as a firefighter.
?
The two post lift was one of the best tool investments I have made. I do enjoy changing my oil while standing up.
?
As for the floor, I too considered a variety of options including epoxy, vinyl, OSB, and even carpet tiles. ?James Hamilton, AKA Stumpy Nubs, has the carpet tiles on his shop floor. ?Carpet would not be a good choice under the lift.
?
I've dealt with the oil staining first by applying a sealer to the concrete. ?This has greatly minimized the ability for virtually anything to stain the concrete. ?Second, I keep used cardboard on the floor immediately below the vehicle in the "splash" zone. ?This has allowed me to keep the area under the lift virtually stain free. ?Nothing is perfect. ?I dropped a front hub from about 4'. ?It left a small crater in the concrete floor. ?I could fill it, but it would be even more obvious. ?No matter what floor I might have installed over the concrete, this would have left a mark. ?My point is similar to Mac. ?It is a shop floor. ?Make reasonable efforts to keep it nice.
?
You are still faced with keeping the floor stain free while the new concrete cures. ?I assume, from the photos, that your floor is quite new. ?If so, you will need to wait until the concrete cures before you can seal it. ?You would need to do this anyway if you planned to coat the floor with anything intended to adhere to the concrete.
?
I wasn't willing to wait until the concrete cured enough to apply epoxy before moving in. ?And I decided I didn't want to have to move everything a second time to apply the epoxy, and then wait until that cured in order to move everything back.
?
Finally, over the years, I have worked in several fire stations with epoxy floors. ?This stuff is tough, but like anything else, it wears. ?If not applied correctly, it will not adhere to the concrete. ?In one case, the new fire station had it applied, only to have it fail if various random places. ?The contractor had to scrape and grind it all off, and start over, only to have it fail a second time. ?Ultimately, the floor was polished concrete and sealed. ?The general consensus was the concrete had not cured enough and moisture in the concrete caused it to bubble up over time.
?
Good luck with your floor and your shop. ?I certainly enjoy mine.
?
By the way, how will you heat your shop?
?
Alex B.
?
?
?
On 03/28/2025 11:03 AM PDT David Davies via groups.io <myfinishingtouch@...> wrote:
?
?
I'm going to have a two post lift and do auto repair in the front half of that picture and I don't want to get the concrete stained.
Dave Davies
On Fri, Mar 28, 2025 at 1:02?PM mac campshure via <mac512002= [email protected]> wrote:
My question is why what’s wrong with the nice concrete floor you’ve got seems like a nice to me. It’s a shop floor. It’s not your kitchen.
Designing and building for 50 years
?
Hi Dave Davies,
?
Trucor LVP is bullet proof in my opinion!
?
Great stuff and installs easily, in both directions too.?
?
Thx,
?
Wade
?
?
On Mar 28, 2025, at 7:17?AM, David Davies via <myfinishingtouch=[email protected]> wrote:
Any thoughts on using vinyl tiles for a workshop floor?
?
?
with 4,000 sq ft to cover I'm exploring options.? I've seen LVT that snap together but those seem to scratch fairly easily.? With vinyl tile if there was damage you could replace single tiles if needed.? These would be much cheaper than an epoxy floor.
?
?
Thanks
Dave Davies
?
?
?
?
--
Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
David,
Another idea for concrete floors. ?I’ve seen it done many times and looks great.?
Honed concrete is?a smooth, matte concrete finish achieved by grinding the surface, often followed by sealing, and is known for its durability, low maintenance, and slip resistance, making it suitable for both indoor and outdoor applications.?
Thx,
Wade
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 29, 2025, at 9:22?PM, Alex Bowlds via groups.io <aabj@...> wrote:
?
Hi David,
?
I too built my 2400SF shop with the intent of using part of it for automotive and metal work. ?I installed a two post lift with a 13,000lb capacity. ?I was a heavy equipment mechanic, starting very young, until I changed course and became a firefighter. ?I continued to do mechanic work for family, friends, and myself for the past 50 years while earning a paycheck as a firefighter.
?
The two post lift was one of the best tool investments I have made. I do enjoy changing my oil while standing up.
?
As for the floor, I too considered a variety of options including epoxy, vinyl, OSB, and even carpet tiles. ?James Hamilton, AKA Stumpy Nubs, has the carpet tiles on his shop floor. ?Carpet would not be a good choice under the lift.
?
I've dealt with the oil staining first by applying a sealer to the concrete. ?This has greatly minimized the ability for virtually anything to stain the concrete. ?Second, I keep used cardboard on the floor immediately below the vehicle in the "splash" zone. ?This has allowed me to keep the area under the lift virtually stain free. ?Nothing is perfect. ?I dropped a front hub from about 4'. ?It left a small crater in the concrete floor. ?I could fill it, but it would be even more obvious. ?No matter what floor I might have installed over the concrete, this would have left a mark. ?My point is similar to Mac. ?It is a shop floor. ?Make reasonable efforts to keep it nice.
?
You are still faced with keeping the floor stain free while the new concrete cures. ?I assume, from the photos, that your floor is quite new. ?If so, you will need to wait until the concrete cures before you can seal it. ?You would need to do this anyway if you planned to coat the floor with anything intended to adhere to the concrete.
?
I wasn't willing to wait until the concrete cured enough to apply epoxy before moving in. ?And I decided I didn't want to have to move everything a second time to apply the epoxy, and then wait until that cured in order to move everything back.
?
Finally, over the years, I have worked in several fire stations with epoxy floors. ?This stuff is tough, but like anything else, it wears. ?If not applied correctly, it will not adhere to the concrete. ?In one case, the new fire station had it applied, only to have it fail if various random places. ?The contractor had to scrape and grind it all off, and start over, only to have it fail a second time. ?Ultimately, the floor was polished concrete and sealed. ?The general consensus was the concrete had not cured enough and moisture in the concrete caused it to bubble up over time.
?
Good luck with your floor and your shop. ?I certainly enjoy mine.
?
By the way, how will you heat your shop?
?
Alex B.
?
?
?
On 03/28/2025 11:03 AM PDT David Davies via groups.io <myfinishingtouch@...> wrote:
?
?
I'm going to have a two post lift and do auto repair in the front half of that picture and I don't want to get the concrete stained.
Dave Davies
On Fri, Mar 28, 2025 at 1:02?PM mac campshure via <mac512002= [email protected]> wrote:
My question is why what’s wrong with the nice concrete floor you’ve got seems like a nice to me. It’s a shop floor. It’s not your kitchen.
Designing and building for 50 years
?
Hi Dave Davies,
?
Trucor LVP is bullet proof in my opinion!
?
Great stuff and installs easily, in both directions too.?
?
Thx,
?
Wade
?
?
On Mar 28, 2025, at 7:17?AM, David Davies via <myfinishingtouch=[email protected]> wrote:
Any thoughts on using vinyl tiles for a workshop floor?
?
?
with 4,000 sq ft to cover I'm exploring options.? I've seen LVT that snap together but those seem to scratch fairly easily.? With vinyl tile if there was damage you could replace single tiles if needed.? These would be much cheaper than an epoxy floor.
?
?
Thanks
Dave Davies
?
?
?
?
--
Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
When you guys say "seal", what is the material?? I'm picturing Costco.? Is that what you are describing?
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Concrete sealers can be clear or tinted and the good stuff you won’t find at the big box stores. I have used Sika sealers on past projects and will more than likely use it on a shop I’m building this year.?
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Found concrete densifiers.? Densifiers seem to be different than sealers? Dave Davies
Concrete sealers can be clear or tinted and the good stuff you won’t find at the big box stores. I have used Sika sealers on past projects and will more than likely use it on a shop I’m building this year.?
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Hi Dave
Unfortunately, it is too early for me to make a recommendation, but it's likely our new workshop floor will be "burnished" concrete.? It's also recommended I apply a good sealer after that.? Burnishing needs to be done before the concrete initially dries.? (Not sure if I have that exactly correct).? I've been advised the cost of burnishing is about mid way between just troweling (ie not much) and being polished.??
Cheers
David
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Dave, I used a glue down commercial grade vinyl. ?Very happy with this product. ?Looks good, easy to sweep, easy to repair like vinyl tires. ?It seems to be a bit more resilient than hard concrete under your feet. ?It has held up under the machines in my shop well. ?Also less cold than bare concrete, and economical to buy and install.
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Jonathan Smith
John Van Derwood