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Hello FOG, I have a brand new AD941, a RL 140 and a Nova Voyager drill press for sale. I am located in Austin, Texas. After a really long wait to get all of them I am moving and will not be able to take them with me. Since this is my first post I am not sure of what I can post. Many thanks to David for all of his excellent PDFs which were invaluable in the setup of the AD941.

I'm pretty sure I've seen a video of someone with a DRO installed on a shaper fence. Might be interesting to install one on my F700z. Any info? Thank you!

Hi all, For those who have 3-phase Felder and Minimax equipment, what plugs/outlets are you using? Does your equipment work fine with the L16-30P plugs and L15-30 outlets? (those are 3 hot plus 1 ground conductors). Or does the Felder/Minimax equipment require a 5-wire connection with both ground and neutral conductors? -Aaron

Hi all, Is anyone familiar with the item below (circled in red), from the Felder website and do you find it useful? I'm looking for a way of providing extra support for large sheet goods while processing them. The website lacks some useful info(no surprise) like how long is and how does it attach to the outrigger. Are there other ways of getting the needed support without using this product? Thanks in advance! Darrell Miller, Chico, Tx K700s, AD941, FB610

Dear Felder friends, I have managed to get hold of nearly all the missing parts from Felder to revive the old 400-800 morticing unit and attach it to my beloved BF6-31, but it seems they no longer stock one critical part, the rods that lock the morticer to the unit (part 71 on the attached numbered parts diagram for the series 7 machine, but same parts), and they are unable (or unwilling) to send me drawings or dimensions of these parts. I wonder if any of you have these locking rods connected to the locking handles, and whether you would be so kind as to take some photos and possibly measure some of the critical dimensions so that I can see if I can have them made at a local machine shop. Another mystery I have not solved is that the stand (75) appears to be too tall to slide under the morticing unit when mounted, and hence is not helpful in moving it into place to attach to the machine. When next to the machine the rod 66 is supposed to line up with the upper hole in the morticer 4, but the stand 75 is higher than the rod and hence I cannot slide it into place no matter how I raise or lower the morticer relative to the stand. If anybody has any ideas I would be most grateful. Please note that the diagram they have sent me is for connecting to a series 7 machine, I attach the diagram for the series 6 machine but the individual parts are not all labelled on it so it is harder to explain the issues. Thank you so much for your help! Davide

I was wondering if anyone has thoughts on automatic dovetailers. There are a few mindsets out there from what I have heard: Find a great local company to make them for you. They can make them cheaper than you can. I use a template to make them with a router, I don't make enough to justify the cost. I make them all by hand (probably not that many on a place like the FOG) My local drawer companies do not deliver the quality that I want. My local company cannot match all of the types of woods I want to make the drawers out of. My time frames make it hard to use a local company to do the drawers. My question is around if anyone has experience with different machine brands and the quality of each of them. Specifically Omec, Dodds, ETC. I have a Northtech now that is basically a clone of a Cantek JDT-75, Laguna DT-18 and a few others. My opinion of the Northtech is that it is competent. I am gonna spend this weekend going deeper into it to see if I can further dial it in to make me happier with it. Any thoughts? PK

Hi all, Im Ty from Washington. We have a wood business in Whidbey Island, WA. Last week I purchased a Format4 Dual 51 in CA and drove it home this weekend. The machine was manufactured in 2014. It has the helical head and 10HP configuration. The trip was uneventful like I like. Unload was tricky but smooth. Ive got to buff out some light rust picked up from the trip. Now we are on to the electricity question. Initial research indicates that single phase VHDs are out for both power and power sensitivity reasons. Rotary seems to be the way to go (please confirm). We have an unused 30HP idler motor still in crate, so would prefer to put that to work with the right phase converter setup. Reading over some threads here seem to indicate that the internal motorized controls require tight electrical specifications. Also would be interested to know if these machines have a soft start as that would be a data point for my phase converter decision. Anyway, nice to meet you all and very excited to get this machine operational. Cheers, Ty www.coastalwood.works

I have a 2008 RL160 dust collector that badly needs new filters. I ordered the replacement filters months ago, and today (hopefully) is the day that they get installed. Along with the filters, Felder supplied a one page instruction sheet about changing the filters. They make it look pretty simple (though obviously very dusty). Besides the basic 8-step procedure outlined on the instruction sheet, does anyone have any other suggestions WRT accomplishing the filter change and/or anything else I should do at the same time, as long as I am up to my shoulders inside the machine? I recall seeing a post from David Best, describing an automatic cleaning system that he fabricated and installed… I really need to do that as well, but it will obviously require some planning. Has anyone else done something similar? My RL160 is located in the same building as my shop, but in a separate room accessible only from outside… this makes it a real pain, especially in the winter to get out there and clean the filters on a regular basis, so a switch activated filter cleaning system (with the switch inside the shop) would be a dream come true. Thanks In Advance- Gerry Kmack Pagosa Springs CO

I'm writing in response to a request from bacchus6015 (Joe) about the Alpine Curved Door & Window class. This was an inaugural class, in that it was the first for the year, and the first dedicated to the topic. The group was awesome, mostly returning Alpine alums, most of us knew each other and had a great time. The class was focused on producing a small-scale, Euro-style, arch-top door. Joe Calhoon generated a drawing of the proposed door, which we then transferred to a sheet of MDF to produce a full-scale drawing, which we then turned into a machining template: The top of the sash and frame were produced using segmented arches, so we spent a fair amount if time discussing how/why/where to locate the joints, setting up a finger joint cutter, gluing/assembly techniques, and so on. By Saturday morning, we had processed all of the stiles, rails, panels, etc... into a door and frame, complete with the Zenit lift-off hinges and weather stripping: While I've built some arch- and elliptical- top storm doors in the past, I really appreciated the opportunity to see some other techniques. We wrapped up the door Saturday morning, and spent the rest of the day discussing some other curve-related work, such as curved-in-plane ("bow-front") sashes, joinery techniques, etc.... A big "Thank You!!!" to Joe Calhoon to accommodating this one-shot class, and to the other students for making it such a fun trip. -- Tom Gensmer Heritage Home Renewals, LLC Minneapolis, MN

Hello everyone, Unlike my prior equipment related questions, today's question is project specific since I have realized that members of this group are amazing in assisting both technically as well as creatively! I really enjoy some of the projects (and related feedback) that I have followed since I became a member last year. Now, regarding my project. I have recently finished building a hut for our dog (photos below). It was pretty straight forward, building individual panels which then could easily be joined along the long and flat surface of the adjacent panel's strut. Needless to say, there were an awful lot of struts (over 140) with various angles to cut and grooves to mill to fit the panels as well as corner joinery, but it worked. I even decided to make the corner joints visually appealing in spite of the fact that they were never to be seen again in the final project. I am now embarking on a new project that is similar in idea, but I do not want the double strut visual. I plan on milling the struts in such a way that my critical joint is where the three struts meet (in other words, I am no longer building panels). So, my question is relating to this joint. How do I make it work. I have contemplated dominos, but they might not give the needed strength? Nor will they be easy to assemble since so many dominos (sets of three always meeting at a central point), do not easily come together. Attempting to contract an exploded sphere of sorts. It seems like a glue-up nightmare. I have also toyed with a variety of other joining methods, but didn't much like any of them (one versions attached below). As I have been researching, I came across the following amazing video on Youtube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YqkaswH6BfY). What a great way of making this joint work, I thought. Definitely strong and it can be assembled in stages. Unfortunately, I do not have that Hoffman machine, but I could create the same joint using a dovetail bit on my router and/or F700. However, I do not want to buy Hoffman dovetails, I would like to machine mine using a wood species that works for the project since this time the dovetails joints would actually show (besides, I can't even buy Hoffman dovetails where I live). Now, machining the rods of dovetail inserts (photos also below) requires 4 passes if I use a dovetail bit. And since I will need many, many running meters of dovetail inserts, I was wondering: A) is there a better way to machine the dovetail inserts? I have looked at both Felder and Whitehill cutter profiles, but could not come across a cutter that matches the angle of a dovetail bit. A profile with the correct angles would machine the dovetail rods in two passes, making it not only faster and safer, but also more accurate. B) should I not pursue this path at all and opt for a much simpler, better, prettier joint for this project? Secretly I am hoping for a different solution ..... Many thanks to everyone! Cornelius Schultze-Kraft Cyprus

Hello, I’ve just bought a used table extension, primarily so that I have outfeed support on an N4400 bandsaw, but I’d like to use it with my B3 Perform slider/moulder combo too. What I can’t work out though is how to attach the aluminium bracket to the bed of either machine. Can any of you shed light on this? The bed of the N4400 doesn’t appear to have any holes drilled/tapped into it, so I’m unclear as to how this fits. I’m assuming that the slot in the aluminium slides over two bolts and is tightened by locknuts, but I’m stumped! Any help greatly appreciated!

Hey Folks, I have a trestle table project that I'm planning on starting this Spring with a design based on Japanese Torii gates (specifically the Peace Torii). Attached is a 3D print in 1/10th scale. The table will be easily taken apart for moving (as a military brat, I always think about how to move things). Originally, I was going with Maple and dyeing it an orange base and a black top, similar to the stools in the other photo. But I've decided it's too much color and will go with a natural look. Still going with a Maple base. I'd like to do the top in Walnut, and get that as dark as possible to maximize the contrast. Any recommendations on finishing? I've considered going with Padauk as it darkens to a nice dark brown, but that would add almost 20% to the weight of the top. But open to arguments to go with that (or something else). Since you've made it this far, I'm also pondering the best way to attach the apron. Glue along the longitudinal side, and float the cross-grain or free-float the entire apron (which might be an issue when movers are handling the piece)? I think I've figured out most everything else. But I could be back. -- Bill Hope -- Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with a Hammer

My Grizzly Two-Stage is getting a bit long in the tooth, and needs a new filter amongst other things, doesnt do a great job at fine dust collection. I've been looking at options and came down to a few; Oneida Dust Gorilla Pro 5HP w/55gal Drum Laguna T|Fux 5 Felder RL160 I know its a bit apples and oranges in terms of comparison, but I'm collecting from a F700, K700S, AD941 and a Bandsaw, in terms of what sort of a user I am, I like the term Prosumer level. The main concern I see on here around the RL series is its ability to capture fine dust without clogging the filter. After selling my double drum, I do see a smaller widebelt in my horizon, but will likley be a used purchase when one comes up within a reasonable distance, but in terms of usage its not going to be production level, so I don't think it would be an issue. Only limitations are is 1? 30 amp availability for power, I do have 3? available, but just on a limited power budget (switched from a "15" HP Rotary Phase to a PTE010, and a smaller 37" widebelt would already be streching its capability), so would like to keep that for tooling. And it needs to be located on the _left_ side of my garage door, so right side bin removal with chute facing the rear of the garage. All hard piped already. I did get a price on an RL160, but the unit Felder has on the way is destined for Delaware, not Sacramento, so shipping to AZ is going to be prohibitive, and the next container isnt till June/July into CA. Essentially other than douubling my budget somehow and magicly getting an AL-KO, would it be worth the wait for the RL160, or something else I should be looking at? Cheers -Karl

Does anyone here has experience with the SCM J/P combo. I did some research on the SCM vs Felder J/P and it looks to me like the SCM has some advantage as of: 1)It has parallelogram jointer 2)The surface is flat vs the sprint joint the Felder line has And another question about the 41 vs 52 cm J/P. Do you find a lot of useful of having a bigger planer? (Today I have the A3-31 which is too small and I find work around when I work with wider material/boards, but I wonder if I'll regret not going with the bigger machine in the future)