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Hello everyone,
?
Unlike my prior equipment related questions, today's question is project specific since I have realized that members of this group are amazing in assisting both technically as well as creatively! I really enjoy some of the projects (and related feedback) that I have followed since I became a member last year.
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Now, regarding my project. I have recently finished building a hut for our dog (photos below). It was pretty straight forward, building individual panels which then could easily be joined along the long and flat surface of the adjacent panel's strut. Needless to say, there were an awful lot of struts (over 140) with various angles to cut and grooves to mill to fit the panels as well as corner joinery, but it worked. I even decided to make the corner joints visually appealing in spite of the fact that they were never to be seen again in the final project.?
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I am now embarking on a new project that is similar in idea, but I do not want the double strut visual. I plan on milling the struts in such a way that my critical joint is where the three struts meet (in other words, I am no longer building panels). So, my question is relating to this joint. How do I make it work. I have contemplated dominos, but they might not give the needed strength? Nor will they be easy to assemble since so many dominos (sets of three always meeting at a central point), do not easily come together. Attempting to contract an exploded sphere of sorts. It seems like a glue-up nightmare.?
?
I have also toyed with a variety of other joining methods, but didn't much like any of them (one versions attached below).
?
As I have been researching, I came across the following amazing video on Youtube (). What a great way of making this joint work, I thought. Definitely strong and it can be assembled in stages. Unfortunately, I do not have that Hoffman machine, but I could create the same joint using a dovetail bit on my router and/or F700. However, I do not want to buy Hoffman dovetails, I would like to machine mine using a wood species that works for the project since this time the dovetails joints would actually show (besides, I can't even buy Hoffman dovetails where I live). Now, machining the rods of dovetail inserts (photos also below) requires 4 passes if I use a dovetail bit. And since I will need many, many running meters of dovetail inserts, I was wondering:
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A) is there a better way to machine the dovetail inserts? I have looked at both Felder and Whitehill cutter profiles, but could not come across a cutter that matches the angle of a dovetail bit. A profile with the correct angles would machine the dovetail rods in two passes, making it not only faster and safer, but also more accurate.?
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B) should I not pursue this path at all and opt for a much simpler, better, prettier joint for this project? Secretly I am hoping for a different solution .....
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Many thanks to everyone!
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Cornelius Schultze-Kraft
Cyprus?
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Cornelius, Normal dovetail router bit is too big for the size of the Hoffman dovetail key, unless you want to make a large dovetail joint. I still think Hoffman dovetail joint is still the best option. You do not need a Hoffman dovetail machine to make the joint. I made the a Hoffman dovetail machine like jig using the fantastic PantoRouter (MultiRouter would work too), check this thread? /g/felderownersgroup/message/125827
I really like the PantoRouter, it's so versatile.
Hoffman is a German company, you can buy their dovetail key and router bits in Europe.
James
Hello everyone,
?
Unlike my prior equipment related questions, today's question is project specific since I have realized that members of this group are amazing in assisting both technically as well as creatively! I really enjoy some of the projects (and related feedback) that I have followed since I became a member last year.
?
Now, regarding my project. I have recently finished building a hut for our dog (photos below). It was pretty straight forward, building individual panels which then could easily be joined along the long and flat surface of the adjacent panel's strut. Needless to say, there were an awful lot of struts (over 140) with various angles to cut and grooves to mill to fit the panels as well as corner joinery, but it worked. I even decided to make the corner joints visually appealing in spite of the fact that they were never to be seen again in the final project.?
?
I am now embarking on a new project that is similar in idea, but I do not want the double strut visual. I plan on milling the struts in such a way that my critical joint is where the three struts meet (in other words, I am no longer building panels). So, my question is relating to this joint. How do I make it work. I have contemplated dominos, but they might not give the needed strength? Nor will they be easy to assemble since so many dominos (sets of three always meeting at a central point), do not easily come together. Attempting to contract an exploded sphere of sorts. It seems like a glue-up nightmare.?
?
I have also toyed with a variety of other joining methods, but didn't much like any of them (one versions attached below).
?
As I have been researching, I came across the following amazing video on Youtube (). What a great way of making this joint work, I thought. Definitely strong and it can be assembled in stages. Unfortunately, I do not have that Hoffman machine, but I could create the same joint using a dovetail bit on my router and/or F700. However, I do not want to buy Hoffman dovetails, I would like to machine mine using a wood species that works for the project since this time the dovetails joints would actually show (besides, I can't even buy Hoffman dovetails where I live). Now, machining the rods of dovetail inserts (photos also below) requires 4 passes if I use a dovetail bit. And since I will need many, many running meters of dovetail inserts, I was wondering:
?
A) is there a better way to machine the dovetail inserts? I have looked at both Felder and Whitehill cutter profiles, but could not come across a cutter that matches the angle of a dovetail bit. A profile with the correct angles would machine the dovetail rods in two passes, making it not only faster and safer, but also more accurate.?
?
B) should I not pursue this path at all and opt for a much simpler, better, prettier joint for this project? Secretly I am hoping for a different solution .....
?
Many thanks to everyone!
?
Cornelius Schultze-Kraft
Cyprus?
?
?
|
Nice job!?
I think you have the only dog ever that will be living in a dodecahedron!
Kind regards,Brian D. Milidrag5300 John R Rd, Troy, MI 48085
Hello everyone,
?
Unlike my prior equipment related questions, today's question is project specific since I have realized that members of this group are amazing in assisting both technically as well as creatively! I really enjoy some of the projects (and related feedback) that I have followed since I became a member last year.
?
Now, regarding my project. I have recently finished building a hut for our dog (photos below). It was pretty straight forward, building individual panels which then could easily be joined along the long and flat surface of the adjacent panel's strut. Needless to say, there were an awful lot of struts (over 140) with various angles to cut and grooves to mill to fit the panels as well as corner joinery, but it worked. I even decided to make the corner joints visually appealing in spite of the fact that they were never to be seen again in the final project.?
?
I am now embarking on a new project that is similar in idea, but I do not want the double strut visual. I plan on milling the struts in such a way that my critical joint is where the three struts meet (in other words, I am no longer building panels). So, my question is relating to this joint. How do I make it work. I have contemplated dominos, but they might not give the needed strength? Nor will they be easy to assemble since so many dominos (sets of three always meeting at a central point), do not easily come together. Attempting to contract an exploded sphere of sorts. It seems like a glue-up nightmare.?
?
I have also toyed with a variety of other joining methods, but didn't much like any of them (one versions attached below).
?
As I have been researching, I came across the following amazing video on Youtube (). What a great way of making this joint work, I thought. Definitely strong and it can be assembled in stages. Unfortunately, I do not have that Hoffman machine, but I could create the same joint using a dovetail bit on my router and/or F700. However, I do not want to buy Hoffman dovetails, I would like to machine mine using a wood species that works for the project since this time the dovetails joints would actually show (besides, I can't even buy Hoffman dovetails where I live). Now, machining the rods of dovetail inserts (photos also below) requires 4 passes if I use a dovetail bit. And since I will need many, many running meters of dovetail inserts, I was wondering:
?
A) is there a better way to machine the dovetail inserts? I have looked at both Felder and Whitehill cutter profiles, but could not come across a cutter that matches the angle of a dovetail bit. A profile with the correct angles would machine the dovetail rods in two passes, making it not only faster and safer, but also more accurate.?
?
B) should I not pursue this path at all and opt for a much simpler, better, prettier joint for this project? Secretly I am hoping for a different solution .....
?
Many thanks to everyone!
?
Cornelius Schultze-Kraft
Cyprus?
?
?
|
Hi James,
Thanks for your feedback. Yes, a PantoRouter is a wonderful machine (unfortunately, I don't have one). That being said, I believe I can make the cuts on my F700. My main question is whether this is really the best way to go for this joint or if there is a better (or simpler) way to proceed.?
Regarding Hoffman keys, does anyone here ever make their own keys (see attached)? And if so, which is the best way to go about it? Again, since the keys will be visible in my case, I would like them to be wood (not plastic) and either matching or contrasting the wood of the frame. Also, if I machine the keys, I could make them to whichever dimension/angle of the dovetail bit that I will use for the track. I machine my own dowels and pegs, so I suppose people machine their own dovetail keys?
Many thanks!
Cornelius Schultze-Kraft Cyprus
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Hi Brian,
Thanks for your comment. The dog loves it (and so does the cat). I used very dark thermo treated ash for the panels and they smell incredibly?smokey, kind of like a sausage, smoked ham or brisket .... so he loves his new home! Every time he enters he probably thinks he is entering the belly of a giant piece of smoked meat. Which is btw why I used this rather expensive wood for a dog hut - I had it and couldn't use it for anything else due to its extreme smell.
Cornelius Schultze-Kraft Cyprus
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James,
Right after I sent the last message with the photo?of my key, I realised that my grain direction is probably?wrong .... ? Would have to be more careful in selecting?the pieces I use for this purpose. What I photographed will probably snap quite easily. Have you ever used the Hoffman wooden keys? They seem to come in 1m lengths and are available in a variety of woods. How are they as far as grain is concerned???
Many?thanks,
Cornelius Schultze-Kraft Cyprus
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Cornelius,
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No, I never used the Hoffman wooden keys.?
Steve, a member of the FOG group, made that floating honeycomb shelf video. He probably used the Hoffman wooden keys.
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I do not see a safe and efficient way to make Hoffman dovetail keys manually, cause the keys are relatively small.
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Unless using a custom made profile knife on the shaper, using a jig to hold the wood and profile the key in two passes.?
James
James,
?
Right after I sent the last message with the photo?of my key, I realised that my grain direction is probably?wrong .... ? Would have to be more careful in selecting?the pieces I use for this purpose. What I photographed will probably snap quite easily. Have you ever used the Hoffman wooden keys? They seem to come in 1m lengths and are available in a variety of woods. How are they as far as grain is concerned???
?
Many?thanks,
?
Cornelius Schultze-Kraft
Cyprus
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If I am not mistaken the Hoffman keys are some sort of plastic but they do sell wood end caps to hide the plastic ones.
Kind regards,?
Jonathan?
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Here you go, the smallest size but they also supply their bigger ones (w3 or w4) : https://hoffmann-usa.com/hoffmann-dovetail-keys/w-2-dovetail-keys-solid-hardwood/
Kind regards,?
Jonathan?
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That dog house is amazing!! ?Love it.
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On Mar 19, 2025, at 11:41?AM, Jonathan Martens via groups.io <jonathan@...> wrote:
If I am not mistaken the Hoffman keys are some sort of plastic but they do sell wood end caps to hide the plastic ones.
Kind regards,?
Jonathan?
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Hi Jonathan,
Thanks for your feedback. I have now ordered wooden dovetail keys from Hoffmann. They are not exactly cheap and since I always have scraps of wood, I was hoping there are some profile knives available with which I could mill that type of key myself. In any case, wood is probably really only usable as a cap since the grain would not provide the best strength. Hence I will proceed with Hoffman plastic for stability and then only cap with wood (if visible).
Many thanks!
Cornelius Schultze-Kraft Cyprus
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Hi Branden,
Thanks for your comment. It may look nice, but it actually has several major flaws. A primary problem is that I inset the panels which causes rainwater to collect and seep in. Lucky for us, we live in Cyprus and only have about 10 days of rain a year ....?
Cornelius Schultze-Kraft Cypus
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Brian
Jonathan Martens