#140021

I just successfully broke down 3/4" and 1/4" plywood using the 768mm extension table mentioned together with the parallel cutting guide for narrower pieces.

#140025

Thank you all for your suggestions. I didn't think to look at the parallel-cuts device, but it appears to solve the issue.

Darrell Miller

#140059

Darrell, for what is worth and after much contemplation I went with the Felder Parallel device that James provided a link.? I liked the fact that it can be used as a stand alone material support with greater surface area vs others, and of course the parallel guide mechanism is great to have...a good value (if that is possible with Felder branded accessories).

?

Kamal Patel?

#140060

Thanks Kamal. It does appear that the Felder Parallel device is a high quality tool that everyone approves of and it is dual use. But like all Felder equipment it comes at a price.

I currently have a pair of DRO parallel devices from Lamb Tools. I love them. Although they do not have the capacity the Felder unit has.

At this time I'm considering a test using a stick of extruded aluminum (8020 series 15 at 72" x 1.5" x 1.5") and attach it to the Outrigger table, using existing holes in its frame. The 8020 is only $50. Given the beefy attachment mechanism of the outrigger to the slider, I expect this to work, although likely not as convenient (install/remove) as the Felder unit. If it doesn't work, I'll shift back to the Felder item.

Thanks again,

?

Darrell Miller

#140061

I cut a lot of large sheets and use my outrigger with the 20" cast iron extensions (older F-channel slider) and have no issues. I also cut a lot of flimsy material (foam packaging with a hot wire cutter I use) and when I'm doing that, I have a board about 2" x 2" by maybe 5' long and I planned it down to just slip under the crosscut fence while resting on the lower framework of the outrigger.?

Quick and easy to use, and works well with lighter weight material.

Brian Lamb

blamb11@...

lambtoolworks.com

On Wednesday, February 19, 2025 at 09:57:41 AM MST, DARRELL MILLER via groups.io <dmiller823a@...> wrote:

Thanks Kamal. It does appear that the Felder Parallel device is a high quality tool that everyone approves of and it is dual use. But like all Felder equipment it comes at a price.

I currently have a pair of DRO parallel devices from Lamb Tools. I love them. Although they do not have the capacity the Felder unit has.

At this time I'm considering a test using a stick of extruded aluminum (8020 series 15 at 72" x 1.5" x 1.5") and attach it to the Outrigger table, using existing holes in its frame. The 8020 is only $50. Given the beefy attachment mechanism of the outrigger to the slider, I expect this to work, although likely not as convenient (install/remove) as the Felder unit. If it doesn't work, I'll shift back to the Felder item.

Thanks again,

?

Darrell Miller

#140063

I often just use the short table extension for sheetgoods. The longer one for the parallel fence would also work and have even more support but then i'd be pulling it all apart to use just the table. Since i have the short one and it works for me, at least with the 1500 outrigger, that's what i typically use. What you were looking at in your original post is what i've copied with some aluminum extrusion specifically for cutting down big heavy door slabs and putting grooves in the bottom edge for drop seals etc. with the shaper. For that, i find it extremely handy. My solution was a bit cheaper than Felder's though! :)

Regards,

Bryce

--

https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw

#140128

I would like to see more videos on how folks breakdown 4x8 sheets on their K700. I’ve seen Steve’s and Sam Blasco’s videos but I’m sure I could learn more. ?

Bryce, have you made a YT on this particular topic?

?

cheers,

Rob P.

#140222

Hi Rob,

Sorry for the late reply. I haven't really done a video specifically breaking down sheetgoods, at least not in any kind of way that could be called a tutorial.

What length is your slider??

Do you use any kind of nesting software to figure out what cuts you need to make to get the most efficient use of the material you have?

Do you use a scoring blade?

What kind of things do you typically make from your 4x8 sheets?

I'd be happy to try to explain how i would go about it, and if necessary, i can always do a video if i can't explain it well enough with just words.

Regards,

Bryce

--

https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw

#140354

Hi Bryce,

?

Sorry for the tardy reply, I've been travelling for work.

?

I have answers to your specific questions here;

Do you use any kind of nesting software to figure out what cuts you need to make to get the most efficient use of the material you have? A: Yes. CutList Plus
Do you use a scoring blade? A: Yes. I have a Felder K700S
What kind of things do you typically make from your 4x8 sheets? A: I am currently completing a kitchen made from prefinished maple ply and solid cherry face frame. The drawer fronts and doors will also be made from solid cherry but I digress.

?

Let me be a bit more specific on my work processes and where I am unhappy as that may help determine if a video would be useful...

?

My first cut is the 8' long edge to remove the factory edge. I then rotate the panel 90 degrees and remove the 4' factory edge. I have both the 1500 and smaller support from my F700, hence the hijacking of this thread.
Currently I'm using the nesting software to produce rough cut dimensions (10mm excess) and I do the initial breakdown of the 8x4' sheets. I have the software biased to prefer crosscuts so I do that next.
I use the digital rip fence as a bumpstop.
Finally, I cut the manageable pieces to their final dimensions.

All of the above seems to work ok. Probably not the most efficient but I'm going for accuracy and safety more than anything else.

?

Where I think I'm lacking in skill is when I'm ripping the sheet goods, rather than crosscutting. I understand I should be using the digital outrigger and parallel guide as much as possible - I have the Felder analog one, which has known challenges - rather than using the rip fence. Too many times I have produced nailing strips, drawer sides, etc. that are not parallel. I'm not sure what is the cause but I suspect my technique rather than the set up of the machine.

?

I've rewatched Sam Blasco's and Steve Rowe's YouTubes to get some more insight and I was wondering if you would be willing to record a short vid showing your work process? For example, do you follow Sam's suggestion of having a single contact point on the outrigger fence when referencing the rip fence? If so how do you attach it? The Felder fence does not have the slot like Sam's SCM machine. At what size do you transition from referencing the rip fence to the outrigger/parallel guide? It would seem to me that having too much of the sheet to the right of the blade and a small amount on the left of the blade is asking for trouble.

?

I hope I'm making sense and I welcome any feedback from the gallery. (:o)

?

Oh I should mention, I don't have air clamps (just Kreg Automaxx for now) or Lamb parallel guides. I do own a copy of David Best's Survival Guide and I have read about how to set up a parallel guide using the digital stop on the outrigger fence but I haven't made one of those yet.

?

Thanks in advance.

?

Cheers,

Rob P.

#140355

开云体育

Hi Rob P,

This is my understanding from Sam’s video on the single point of contact method. ?

The use of a single/small point of contact on the outrigger, when using the rip fence to dimension your stock is to keep the two from “fighting” one another. ?Due to the toe-out that should be registered on your rip fence. ?Pushing the stock against both these two long surfaces simultaneously can cause tension/pulling, resulting in a pour quality straight edge. ?

I have the same K700S, but have not needed to use this method. ?I’ve had great results with just using the digital outrigger, with the Felder Parallel guide, and Mac’s AirTight clamps. ?Both small and large dimensions. ?Just recently I had to cut up some CVG Fir plywood for some cabinet doors, with a finished dimension of 16”x42”. ?After milling to final dimension I stacked them and they aligned perfectly. ?My saw is dialed in! ?Loving the results. ?

Thx,

Wade

Show quoted text

On Mar 19, 2025, at 3:42 PM, Rob Pritchard via groups.io <bobbydazzler2248@...> wrote:

?
Hi Bryce,

?

Sorry for the tardy reply, I've been travelling for work.

?

I have answers to your specific questions here;

Do you use any kind of nesting software to figure out what cuts you need to make to get the most efficient use of the material you have? A: Yes. CutList Plus

Do you use a scoring blade? A: Yes. I have a Felder K700S

What kind of things do you typically make from your 4x8 sheets? A: I am currently completing a kitchen made from prefinished maple ply and solid cherry face frame. The drawer fronts and doors will also be made from solid cherry but I digress.

?

Let me be a bit more specific on my work processes and where I am unhappy as that may help determine if a video would be useful...

?

My first cut is the 8' long edge to remove the factory edge. I then rotate the panel 90 degrees and remove the 4' factory edge. I have both the 1500 and smaller support from my F700, hence the hijacking of this thread.

Currently I'm using the nesting software to produce rough cut dimensions (10mm excess) and I do the initial breakdown of the 8x4' sheets. I have the software biased to prefer crosscuts so I do that next.

I use the digital rip fence as a bumpstop.

Finally, I cut the manageable pieces to their final dimensions.

All of the above seems to work ok. Probably not the most efficient but I'm going for accuracy and safety more than anything else.

?

Where I think I'm lacking in skill is when I'm ripping the sheet goods, rather than crosscutting. I understand I should be using the digital outrigger and parallel guide as much as possible - I have the Felder analog one, which has known challenges - rather than using the rip fence. Too many times I have produced nailing strips, drawer sides, etc. that are not parallel. I'm not sure what is the cause but I suspect my technique rather than the set up of the machine.

?

I've rewatched Sam Blasco's and Steve Rowe's YouTubes to get some more insight and I was wondering if you would be willing to record a short vid showing your work process? For example, do you follow Sam's suggestion of having a single contact point on the outrigger fence when referencing the rip fence? If so how do you attach it? The Felder fence does not have the slot like Sam's SCM machine. At what size do you transition from referencing the rip fence to the outrigger/parallel guide? It would seem to me that having too much of the sheet to the right of the blade and a small amount on the left of the blade is asking for trouble.

?

I hope I'm making sense and I welcome any feedback from the gallery. (:o)

?

Oh I should mention, I don't have air clamps (just Kreg Automaxx for now) or Lamb parallel guides. I do own a copy of David Best's Survival Guide and I have read about how to set up a parallel guide using the digital stop on the outrigger fence but I haven't made one of those yet.

?

Thanks in advance.

?

Cheers,

Rob P.

#140356

Hi Rob,

It sounds to me like you're doing things in a pretty well thought out manner.

Since you are cutting things oversize, i'm not too sure how important it is for you to rip a straight edge on the long edge before you begin breaking the sheet down. If you want to cut all your pieces to the exact dimension straight away, which is what i do, maybe try cutting a short edge first, then put that edge against the crosscut fence to make a straight cut on the long edge. From there you can start cutting up your parts to the exact dimensions required.

I don't have any air clamps, and rarely use any clamps on sheetgoods unless i have a badly warped sheet that i need to hold down to stop it spinning on the slider whilst making the cut. 99% of the time i just hold it in place to make each cut.?

I can't tell you how much toe out i have on my outrigger fence in relation to the blade, i have it set up by ear. (You should be able to hear the back of the blade on the material as it passes, but it will be more of a rubbing than a cutting sound). If there is too much toe out, you will find it very difficult to work using both the crosscut fence and the rip fence. If productivity is not necessarily your goal, then you could work with more toe out and make sure all cutting is done on the outrigger side of the machine. This however, isn't making good use of the machine.

Going back to my setup, my toe out is negligable. My rip fence is also set so it is barely toe out from the blade (Basically the same as the outrigger but in the opposite direction). To put it into perspective, if i make a trim cut on the short edge of a full sheet of ply, then lower the blade and slide the sheet across to the rip fence, there is maybe a tenth of a millimeter gap on the far end of the cut with it tight to the rip fence on the operator end. (I hope that makes sense) With all that said, i can make a trim cut on the end of a 4x8 sheet, then slide the sheet across to the rip fence and make a perfectly acceptable rip cut using both the slider and the fence at the same time. (Let me know if you need me to demonstrate this with a video since at least for me, it seems like i'm just rambling on! :))

My machine only has about 900mm or so on the rip side of the blade, and less with the fence on. (CF741 combination machine) If the piece i need to rip is narrow enough to be ripped on the rip side of the machine then that's what i will do 90% of the time. After 40 years of doing this for a living, i probably have the confidence to do it knowing i will get a decent cut. With that said, the Felder parallel thingy works very well. I have heard people complain that it's hard to get it sighted in to the exact dimension, but i think once you have used it a few times and get to know how you need to be looking down on it, you will find you can get very accurate results.?

As far as you getting poor results with ripping of nailers etc. it may simply be a case of technique? If you are just talking about sheetgoods, you might want to try pulling the fence back a little so there is more fence to reference off before cutting. If you are having poor results with ripping solid woods, and i'm talking about for example taking a 6" wide board and ripping pieces from that for face frames, i would suggest pulling the fence back as far as possible until it is as near to the centre of the blade as you can have it. Another option is to use a shorter rip fence (one of these ) The idea is that if the wood has tension in it, it will be able to do its thing without A. binding on the back of the blade, &/or B. pushing off the fence behind the blade, making for a less than accurate cut.?

Remember too that regardless of whether you are using the regular length fence or the short fence on the rip side, both will go to a low position for cutting narrow stock. I can't emphasize this enough as it allows the blade guard to be kept in place for all but the very narrowest of rip cuts.

I hope all that is easy to undertand, and helpful.

Regards,

Bryce

--

https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw

#140357

开云体育

Hey Bryce

The Felder parallel “thingy” (lol) works great for me. ?The most accurate way to set this up is to have a “copy stick” used to calibrate against the outrigger flip stop first, then you can set the Parallel fence further down on the slider bed. ?David Best has the nicest Copy Stick I’ve ever seen, but I’m not a machinist, so I can’t make one. ?I’d love to have the same one he has in my collection of accessories!

Thx,

Wade

Show quoted text

On Mar 19, 2025, at 5:48 PM, Bryce Comer <bryce@...> wrote:

?
Hi Rob,

It sounds to me like you're doing things in a pretty well thought out manner.

Since you are cutting things oversize, i'm not too sure how important it is for you to rip a straight edge on the long edge before you begin breaking the sheet down. If you want to cut all your pieces to the exact dimension straight away, which is what i do, maybe try cutting a short edge first, then put that edge against the crosscut fence to make a straight cut on the long edge. From there you can start cutting up your parts to the exact dimensions required.

I don't have any air clamps, and rarely use any clamps on sheetgoods unless i have a badly warped sheet that i need to hold down to stop it spinning on the slider whilst making the cut. 99% of the time i just hold it in place to make each cut.?

I can't tell you how much toe out i have on my outrigger fence in relation to the blade, i have it set up by ear. (You should be able to hear the back of the blade on the material as it passes, but it will be more of a rubbing than a cutting sound). If there is too much toe out, you will find it very difficult to work using both the crosscut fence and the rip fence. If productivity is not necessarily your goal, then you could work with more toe out and make sure all cutting is done on the outrigger side of the machine. This however, isn't making good use of the machine.

Going back to my setup, my toe out is negligable. My rip fence is also set so it is barely toe out from the blade (Basically the same as the outrigger but in the opposite direction). To put it into perspective, if i make a trim cut on the short edge of a full sheet of ply, then lower the blade and slide the sheet across to the rip fence, there is maybe a tenth of a millimeter gap on the far end of the cut with it tight to the rip fence on the operator end. (I hope that makes sense) With all that said, i can make a trim cut on the end of a 4x8 sheet, then slide the sheet across to the rip fence and make a perfectly acceptable rip cut using both the slider and the fence at the same time. (Let me know if you need me to demonstrate this with a video since at least for me, it seems like i'm just rambling on! :))

My machine only has about 900mm or so on the rip side of the blade, and less with the fence on. (CF741 combination machine) If the piece i need to rip is narrow enough to be ripped on the rip side of the machine then that's what i will do 90% of the time. After 40 years of doing this for a living, i probably have the confidence to do it knowing i will get a decent cut. With that said, the Felder parallel thingy works very well. I have heard people complain that it's hard to get it sighted in to the exact dimension, but i think once you have used it a few times and get to know how you need to be looking down on it, you will find you can get very accurate results.?

As far as you getting poor results with ripping of nailers etc. it may simply be a case of technique? If you are just talking about sheetgoods, you might want to try pulling the fence back a little so there is more fence to reference off before cutting. If you are having poor results with ripping solid woods, and i'm talking about for example taking a 6" wide board and ripping pieces from that for face frames, i would suggest pulling the fence back as far as possible until it is as near to the centre of the blade as you can have it. Another option is to use a shorter rip fence (one of these ) The idea is that if the wood has tension in it, it will be able to do its thing without A. binding on the back of the blade, &/or B. pushing off the fence behind the blade, making for a less than accurate cut.?

Remember too that regardless of whether you are using the regular length fence or the short fence on the rip side, both will go to a low position for cutting narrow stock. I can't emphasize this enough as it allows the blade guard to be kept in place for all but the very narrowest of rip cuts.

I hope all that is easy to undertand, and helpful.

Regards,

Bryce

--

https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw

#140359

开云体育

Rob, Wade, Bryce,

I published an article about selection and use of the parallel fences, the Copy Stick idea, and how to set up your rip fence to remove toe-out temporarily to convert it to a proper bump stop. ?The article is on my??and it details how a Copy Stick can be employed to ensure the cutting width of the parallel fence can be made to exactly conform to the crosscut stop position on the outrigger fence. ?I use this technique all the time when cutting panels for use in cabinets to ensure they are equal width at both ends of the cut. ?That same article details how to build your own Copy Stick including a simplified version as described by Lucky (David Luckensmeyer) and shown below from his excellent article about use of the Using the Sliding Tablesaw in Australian Wood Review magazine ?- a simple hardwood batten with two magnetic switches:

Details on precisely checking slider toe-out is covered in this video: ?https://youtu.be/9s2a02XI3BQ?t=1476

David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best

Show quoted text

On Mar 19, 2025, at 6:06?PM, Wade Dees via groups.io <wjdsignature@...> wrote:

Hey Bryce

The Felder parallel “thingy” (lol) works great for me. ?The most accurate way to set this up is to have a “copy stick” used to calibrate against the outrigger flip stop first, then you can set the Parallel fence further down on the slider bed. ?David Best has the nicest Copy Stick I’ve ever seen, but I’m not a machinist, so I can’t make one. ?I’d love to have the same one he has in my collection of accessories!

Thx,

Wade

On Mar 19, 2025, at 5:48 PM, Bryce Comer <bryce@...> wrote:

?
Hi Rob,

It sounds to me like you're doing things in a pretty well thought out manner.

Since you are cutting things oversize, i'm not too sure how important it is for you to rip a straight edge on the long edge before you begin breaking the sheet down. If you want to cut all your pieces to the exact dimension straight away, which is what i do, maybe try cutting a short edge first, then put that edge against the crosscut fence to make a straight cut on the long edge. From there you can start cutting up your parts to the exact dimensions required.

I don't have any air clamps, and rarely use any clamps on sheetgoods unless i have a badly warped sheet that i need to hold down to stop it spinning on the slider whilst making the cut. 99% of the time i just hold it in place to make each cut.?

I can't tell you how much toe out i have on my outrigger fence in relation to the blade, i have it set up by ear. (You should be able to hear the back of the blade on the material as it passes, but it will be more of a rubbing than a cutting sound). If there is too much toe out, you will find it very difficult to work using both the crosscut fence and the rip fence. If productivity is not necessarily your goal, then you could work with more toe out and make sure all cutting is done on the outrigger side of the machine. This however, isn't making good use of the machine.

Going back to my setup, my toe out is negligable. My rip fence is also set so it is barely toe out from the blade (Basically the same as the outrigger but in the opposite direction). To put it into perspective, if i make a trim cut on the short edge of a full sheet of ply, then lower the blade and slide the sheet across to the rip fence, there is maybe a tenth of a millimeter gap on the far end of the cut with it tight to the rip fence on the operator end. (I hope that makes sense) With all that said, i can make a trim cut on the end of a 4x8 sheet, then slide the sheet across to the rip fence and make a perfectly acceptable rip cut using both the slider and the fence at the same time. (Let me know if you need me to demonstrate this with a video since at least for me, it seems like i'm just rambling on! :))

My machine only has about 900mm or so on the rip side of the blade, and less with the fence on. (CF741 combination machine) If the piece i need to rip is narrow enough to be ripped on the rip side of the machine then that's what i will do 90% of the time. After 40 years of doing this for a living, i probably have the confidence to do it knowing i will get a decent cut. With that said, the Felder parallel thingy works very well. I have heard people complain that it's hard to get it sighted in to the exact dimension, but i think once you have used it a few times and get to know how you need to be looking down on it, you will find you can get very accurate results.?

As far as you getting poor results with ripping of nailers etc. it may simply be a case of technique? If you are just talking about sheetgoods, you might want to try pulling the fence back a little so there is more fence to reference off before cutting. If you are having poor results with ripping solid woods, and i'm talking about for example taking a 6" wide board and ripping pieces from that for face frames, i would suggest pulling the fence back as far as possible until it is as near to the centre of the blade as you can have it. Another option is to use a shorter rip fence (one of these ) The idea is that if the wood has tension in it, it will be able to do its thing without A. binding on the back of the blade, &/or B. pushing off the fence behind the blade, making for a less than accurate cut.?

Remember too that regardless of whether you are using the regular length fence or the short fence on the rip side, both will go to a low position for cutting narrow stock. I can't emphasize this enough as it allows the blade guard to be kept in place for all but the very narrowest of rip cuts.

I hope all that is easy to undertand, and helpful.

Regards,

Bryce

--

https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw

#140360

That copy stick looks like a great way of getting the parallel fence to be perfect with the flip stop!

I typically only use it when i'm trying to get a super nice cut on a full length of plywood for a gable or something. In those cases, i can get a parallel cut that is as far as i can tell reading a tape measure, exactly parallel. If i'm less than .5 of a millimeter over an 8 foot length, i'm happy. I normally only do this type of rip cut on the front edge of a gable end or something. The other edge will be scribed to the wall and the bottom edge scribed to the floor.

As for toe out on my slider, I have no idea what it actually is. I'd have to measure as you have with a dial indicator, however i would assume it's less than 4 thou. The same could be said for my rip fence. 4 thou out over 8-10 inches would have it out by roughly half a millimeter for a 4' cut and i'm definitely less than that.?With that said, you will never see my saw with a regular blade in it and no riving knife, so kickback from contact with the back of the blade is pretty much a non starter. Not that it doesn't happen, but the chances are dramatically reduced.

We all learn what we know from different sources and i'm just passing along what i have learnt from some amazing old tradesmen that i apprenticed under, and others that i have learnt from over the years as a wood machinist. One of the great things about a trade is that there's always more to learn if you're open to it. Actually that's something that is different today than it was 30 or more years ago. Back then, (at least in Australia) you would do your 4 or 5 years as an apprentice, then once you were finally done, you became a 1st year tradesman, then 2nd year tradesman, maybe even a 3rd year tradesman. After that, the old timers would let you be, but until that time, they would make sure you knew you were basically only just out of primary school, and into high school, and you definitely had lots more to learn! :) That's one of the great things about this forum, there's always little bits and pieces you can learn from some very passionate woodworkers.

Regards,

Bryce

--

https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw

#140361

开云体育

Bruce,

Like you video on the cf….wish I had seen it before now.

by any chance do you have a workshop tour video, it looks very efficient and would love to hear your ideas of how you arranged.

love your narrative, please keep posting.

Sorry group, a little off topic but I think many will benifit from the video.

Br

Colum

Dubai and Chamonix,

Sent from

Show quoted text

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Bryce Comer via groups.io <bryce@...>
Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2025 7:39:40 AM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [FOG] Options for sheet good support on K700s

?

That copy stick looks like a great way of getting the parallel fence to be perfect with the flip stop!

I typically only use it when i'm trying to get a super nice cut on a full length of plywood for a gable or something. In those cases, i can get a parallel cut that is as far as i can tell reading a tape measure, exactly parallel. If i'm less than .5 of a millimeter over an 8 foot length, i'm happy. I normally only do this type of rip cut on the front edge of a gable end or something. The other edge will be scribed to the wall and the bottom edge scribed to the floor.

As for toe out on my slider, I have no idea what it actually is. I'd have to measure as you have with a dial indicator, however i would assume it's less than 4 thou. The same could be said for my rip fence. 4 thou out over 8-10 inches would have it out by roughly half a millimeter for a 4' cut and i'm definitely less than that.?With that said, you will never see my saw with a regular blade in it and no riving knife, so kickback from contact with the back of the blade is pretty much a non starter. Not that it doesn't happen, but the chances are dramatically reduced.

We all learn what we know from different sources and i'm just passing along what i have learnt from some amazing old tradesmen that i apprenticed under, and others that i have learnt from over the years as a wood machinist. One of the great things about a trade is that there's always more to learn if you're open to it. Actually that's something that is different today than it was 30 or more years ago. Back then, (at least in Australia) you would do your 4 or 5 years as an apprentice, then once you were finally done, you became a 1st year tradesman, then 2nd year tradesman, maybe even a 3rd year tradesman. After that, the old timers would let you be, but until that time, they would make sure you knew you were basically only just out of primary school, and into high school, and you definitely had lots more to learn! :) That's one of the great things about this forum, there's always little bits and pieces you can learn from some very passionate woodworkers.

Regards,

Bryce

--

https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw

#140362

My version of the copy stick, inspired by David Best’s device but made of material I can actually work with.

--

John Hinman
Boise ID
Kappa 450X and A941