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I am about to re-check the alignment of the slider on my saw. I thought I had it pretty well tuned up, following the David Best videos, but am seeing some unexpected behavior. Small offcuts tend to fling back toward the front of the saw. If I trim 1/8” off the end of a piece, for instance, the off cut will often fly clear off the saw. Does this behavior give me some clues as to the slider alignment? Is it telling me I have too little toe-out, or maybe too much? I’m not burning the off-cut. Thanks for any advice! -- John Hinman Boise ID Kappa 450X and A941

Includes: BN-35 Barth Multipress RP3001 3000mm c/w 3 Manual / Hydraulic Clamps and 90? Stop BM-35-10 Barth Hold Down Clamp BM-35-20 Barth Lateral Press with 2 manual R&P BM-35-42 Barth Casework support Top 3x BM-35-41 Barth Casework support Bottom 3x BM-35-55 Barth Mobility Kit BM-35-57 Mitering Frame Bond Device In excellent, almost unused condition. Asking $14500 picked up in Seattle area. I will likely regret it as it will be super expensive if I ever want to re-acquire it! As much as I want to keep it, I'm finding that I'm not doing as much of large cabinet and case work that I thought I would. May be someone can put it to much better use.

Hey guys I got something here in case you have some level of OCD like me this is 3d printed tool holder for my kappa450x but I'm pretty sure it will work with other models if any one is interested let me know

Hey guys. I'm in need of a 12" digital caliper. I have a Mitutoyo 6" that is excellent, but their 12" calipers are upwards of $470 or so. There are many cheaper variants (Fowler, Inzise, Accusize, etc.). Can anyone recommend a decent one? Some of these cheaper calipers have flimsier bodies and thinner calipers. The flexible bodies can cause a variance in measurement. I would love a stainless steel variant, but let me know what you think. -Aaron Inami

Today I just hooked my blade guard dust port to my DC and removed the shop vac that had been collecting dust for the overhead portion for the dust collection. This is a temporary situation and I am considering dropping $500 to $1K for a grizzly or Harvey shark. So my question is what should I expect to be the biggest benefit? Better dust collection, better visibility and safety, more convenience, or all of the above? Currently I have only one bolt for the angle iron, so if I have a wider piece I will be able to loosen the bolt and rotate it away pretty quickly. Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated about the relative benefits and improvements that I should expect. Thanks, Mike -- Mike

Hi all, Just thought i would post a link to my latest video. It's a review on the CF741 so should be of interest to anyone considering this type of machine. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3vxkw6WTcis Regards, Bryce -- https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw

I’m wrestling with how to raise an FB710 bandsaw to vertical beneath a 9’ ceiling. The setup guide presumes I have a high ceiling and overhead crane - nope. I’ve looked at renting a 2-ton gantry, but even if I were to raise its beam up into the gap between two ceiling joists (basement unfinished as of yet), when I subtract from that ~10’ height the vertical distance from the top of the beam to the trolley eyelet, that only leaves about 1’ to spare for a winch before I run out of vertical distance needed for the saw to stand up in. From what I’ve been told, that 1’ isn’t enough for a winch and its attachments. I’m now considering building a wooden gantry and using a hand-cranked winch, which I think I can make work. While I do have a tiny bit of past experience doing exactly that to lift a 600 lb kamado grill into it’s carriage, I’ll probably over-design the thing and wind up with something that will lift a Mack truck. I’m wondering if others have dealt with this situation and what their solutions are. Thanks in advance, Doug

What is the best way to achieve a bead like below around the outside perimeter of the door? Imran Malik IAM Wood Creations https://www.facebook.com/groups/362481112015700/?ref=share

Have a set of "Big squeeze" air clamps for sale. I haven't had the time to properly install these on my current saw and have used them a few times and they work awesome. Just not using them enough to justify keeping them. Willing to ship on the buyers dime // Asking $600

The following items have been added to the Files area of the [email protected] group. /3D Printer Files/Felder splinter block.stl By: Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> Description: Splinter block for Pre-X-Roll 700 series machines

I worked with fellow FOGer Tom Fulmer on fine tuning the 3D printed dust chute adapter for the Hammer machines. After quite a few iterations I have a solution that actually works. Hopefull nobody printed the first one I posted, it was a pretty bad failure... that's what happens when I do things without proper measurements and engineering. Any way, if anybody wants one, I'd be happy to print some, contact me off the list at blamb11@... I'll attach a 3D PDF file of what it looks like, which is easier to see how it all works than in pictures. It slips on the dust chute and then hangs off the metal ears sticking out off the sides. Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com

Has anyone here ever experienced fence plate alignment issues on their f700 series shaper? I’ve had an F700z shaper in the shop since August 22’. It appears that the outboard fence tapers in to the center making for a fence plate surface that’s not coplanar. Upon closer inspection today I noticed that the plate has a bit of play when tight. I’m able to flex the inside edge of the outboard fence out to be in line with the inboard fence. Is there an adjustment screw for the tightening mechanism that would sort this out or is my fence casting defective?

Hello FOG, As some of you are aware, there is a known issue with the Felder short (1100mm) Xcut fence—it does not consistently register at 90 degrees and for many users requires recalibration each time the fence angle is changed or the fence is re-mounted on the slider after removal. David Best has invested meaningful time and effort in researching and developing a solution for this problem. For more details, you can review his findings here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/albums/72157710682931263/with/48696122378/ David has decided not to produce additional retrofit kits himself. However, he has generously shared detailed diagrams outlining his solution. I have located a local metal shop willing to manufacture a batch of these retrofit kits to the required tolerances. Since I don’t have metal milling equipment myself, I will only be facilitating a single production run—provided we reach the minimum order quantity. Participation & Timeline If you’re interested in purchasing a kit, please let me know. I’ll be collecting registrations over the next few weeks, and if we reach at least 25 units, we will proceed with the production run. My target is to start production in the May-June time frame. Available Retrofit Kits & Pricing Retrofit for a Single Machine ($200–$250 + shipping) Requires you to send in your aluminum block for drilling and modification. Includes a retrofitted T-bushing, installation rod, and necessary screws. Retrofit for Two Machines ($450–$500 + shipping) Includes two T-nuts and two new flip stop that have built in adjustment, in addition to modifications to your aluminum block. I'll have the final price once I'll know the number of participants. If you would like to join, please specify which kit you are going to buy Supporting David Best David declined payment for his work in designing this solution, but I believe we should compensate him for his time and dedication. I encourage anyone purchasing the retrofit kit to consider making a donation. I will personally donate $100 for my kit, plus any profit from this group buy. If you’d like to contribute, I will be collecting donations and forwarding them to David. All of the donations to David get passed along to support people in war-torn communities