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This has nothing to do with Felder, but I hope some of you might have suggestions. I plan to use veneered plywood on a section of the ceiling in my house, however I have no idea how to treat the joints between drywall and plywood. Using just mud is not going to look good even if it is done really well and most likely it will eventually crack. Has anyone done this and if so how did you treat the joints? Also, what can you recommend for hidden fasteners as I do not want to use screws. Thanks a lot! Mariusz

Any thoughts on using vinyl tiles for a workshop floor? https://www.armstrongflooring.com/commercial/en-us/products/vinyl-composition-tile/std-excelon-imp-texture/item/51860.html with 4,000 sq ft to cover I'm exploring options. I've seen LVT that snap together but those seem to scratch fairly easily. With vinyl tile if there was damage you could replace single tiles if needed. These would be much cheaper than an epoxy floor. Thanks Dave Davies

Does anyone have a ladder diagram for the motor control for the KF700 S? I have the schematic that came with the saw, which is helpful, but also somewhat confusing. A ladder diagram would be so much easier. I've found that my off-grid power system really does not like the electronic braking system. It's also not entirely happy with the inrush current. I'm looking to integrate a soft start like I have have in my other large tools and disable the brake board. Disabling the brake board is pretty easy. The schematic shows what needs to be jumpered if there isn't a brake board. I want to change the sequence so that the start button initiates the soft-start, and have the soft start disconnect the starting caps when it's finished with the ramp sequence. Similarly, I need the stop button to open the control circuit for the soft-start. (Note: I'm aware that electronic brake is a safety feature. This is for personal use and I'm willing to live with that risk to not cause damage to my inverters)

Due to the discussion of some buying a new saw, thought I share few solutions members have come up with for adding wired and wireless control switches. Depending upon the location of control switches on your machine, this may be of interest. Wired Remote Start/Stop with Scoring Control Log In groups.io Log In groups.io/g/felderownersgroup/files/FOG%20made%20products/pendantparts.PDF Wireless Schneider Harmony based remote switch: Remote Switch for Felder KF 500 groups.io Wireless Remote Start/Stop with Scoring Control groups.io Imran Malik IAM Wood Creations https://www.facebook.com/groups/362481112015700/?ref=share

Has anyone made a file for this doohickey? 2001 vintage KF700. -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406

Hey Folks – I had seen a thread about the ProLock spindle locks and know that Joe D had ordered his for a 1 ?” shaper spindle. I have a K700Z and saw these recently at the Rangate joinery class and was hoping to get one. Can anyone direct me to a source? I did try to see if I could message Joe but could not figure out how to do that on the forum - Thanks Michael 704-783-7154

Hello, I'm tired of tripping over this clamp, so I figured I'd offer it up for sale. Several years old, but i'ver never used it. I'd like $100 + shipping, but any reasonable offers will be considered. I'm located in St. James, NY for shipping $ purposes. Thanks -Joe

Couple of weeks ago the chuck on my ~30 yr old Delta DP suddenly failed. Long story short I stumbled on Nova Viking sale advertisement at Grizzly. It was nearly $500 off. I ordered it few days ago but delayed shipment as I am out of town. It has been in the back of my mind that I could not find any floor model Nova Viking anywhere. So I decided to search and found that the USA affiliate of the New Zealand based company filed for chapter 11 reorg on Feb 25, 2025. I guess I will call the company now to learn more and determine if I still want to go forward with this purchase. The Grizzly site has following on warranty: Contact Teknatool regarding warranties on their NOVA products and technical support.The PRO-TEKTOR Premium covers your motor for an additional 8 years and ALL electronics for an additional 3 years. Limited time 10-year motor warranty and 5-year electronics extended warranty! Imran Malik IAM Wood Creations https://www.facebook.com/groups/362481112015700/?ref=share

Hello, you excellent people, First time to the group, looking to take the plunge on (relatively) big iron ownership, hoping to run my selection process by you and hopefully reined in if it gets too crazy. I am a hobbyist woodworker, averaging few hours a week in my two-car-garage-turned-shop. While I used Unisaws and Sawstops in the past, I never bought a table saw for myself, making do with a bandsaw, track saw, lately a miter saw and a peculiar contraption that goes by the name Shopsmith. After ten years in this mode, I just about had it. Sliding table has been on my mind for some time, though I never used one. Long story short, over several months I persuaded myself that I need one in my life. Most of the work I do is with solid wood, though a recent remodel forced me to deal with cabinetry. Generally, while having a capability to work with sheet goods is appreciated, this is not where I see spending the majority of my time. Given that I do not have a big space, I made a couple optimization decisions. First, I'd like a saw-shaper combo. While I never used a shaper before, I can see the usefulness of the tool. It also synergizes well with a sliding table, making the combp significantly cheaper than having it a standalone tool. I expect to use it as a router half of the time, and to mill end grain joints — most of the other half. Second, I am seriously considering a short stroke. Cross-cutting a baltic birch sheet is the largest job I see myself doing, so a 1550mm table should be enough. For long boards, there's the rip fence and from what I understand, a shorter table actually makes it easier to access. This goes against my natural "more is better" instinct so I would appreciate pointing out if I am about to make an expensive mistake. With that in mind, I have narrowed my Felder options to KF500 and KF700. The more expensive option is in the consideration mainly because of the DROs available for tilt and rip fence. Is it really worth the 40% higher cost? (For that matter, might I be equally happy with a Hammer option?) I am considering a belt-driven scoring blade and a dado option no matter the model I end up with. Sorry for the long form. Please roast my selection and thought process. Any feedback is highly appreciated. Cheers, Stan Sent with Proton Mail secure email.

Hello FOG, I have a brand new AD941, a RL 140 and a Nova Voyager drill press for sale. I am located in Austin, Texas. After a really long wait to get all of them I am moving and will not be able to take them with me. Since this is my first post I am not sure of what I can post. Many thanks to David for all of his excellent PDFs which were invaluable in the setup of the AD941.

I'm pretty sure I've seen a video of someone with a DRO installed on a shaper fence. Might be interesting to install one on my F700z. Any info? Thank you!

Hi all, For those who have 3-phase Felder and Minimax equipment, what plugs/outlets are you using? Does your equipment work fine with the L16-30P plugs and L15-30 outlets? (those are 3 hot plus 1 ground conductors). Or does the Felder/Minimax equipment require a 5-wire connection with both ground and neutral conductors? -Aaron