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Hello, I'm tired of tripping over this clamp, so I figured I'd offer it up for sale. Several years old, but i'ver never used it. I'd like $100 + shipping, but any reasonable offers will be considered. I'm located in St. James, NY for shipping $ purposes. Thanks -Joe

Couple of weeks ago the chuck on my ~30 yr old Delta DP suddenly failed. Long story short I stumbled on Nova Viking sale advertisement at Grizzly. It was nearly $500 off. I ordered it few days ago but delayed shipment as I am out of town. It has been in the back of my mind that I could not find any floor model Nova Viking anywhere. So I decided to search and found that the USA affiliate of the New Zealand based company filed for chapter 11 reorg on Feb 25, 2025. I guess I will call the company now to learn more and determine if I still want to go forward with this purchase. The Grizzly site has following on warranty: Contact Teknatool regarding warranties on their NOVA products and technical support.The PRO-TEKTOR Premium covers your motor for an additional 8 years and ALL electronics for an additional 3 years. Limited time 10-year motor warranty and 5-year electronics extended warranty! Imran Malik IAM Wood Creations https://www.facebook.com/groups/362481112015700/?ref=share

Hello, you excellent people, First time to the group, looking to take the plunge on (relatively) big iron ownership, hoping to run my selection process by you and hopefully reined in if it gets too crazy. I am a hobbyist woodworker, averaging few hours a week in my two-car-garage-turned-shop. While I used Unisaws and Sawstops in the past, I never bought a table saw for myself, making do with a bandsaw, track saw, lately a miter saw and a peculiar contraption that goes by the name Shopsmith. After ten years in this mode, I just about had it. Sliding table has been on my mind for some time, though I never used one. Long story short, over several months I persuaded myself that I need one in my life. Most of the work I do is with solid wood, though a recent remodel forced me to deal with cabinetry. Generally, while having a capability to work with sheet goods is appreciated, this is not where I see spending the majority of my time. Given that I do not have a big space, I made a couple optimization decisions. First, I'd like a saw-shaper combo. While I never used a shaper before, I can see the usefulness of the tool. It also synergizes well with a sliding table, making the combp significantly cheaper than having it a standalone tool. I expect to use it as a router half of the time, and to mill end grain joints — most of the other half. Second, I am seriously considering a short stroke. Cross-cutting a baltic birch sheet is the largest job I see myself doing, so a 1550mm table should be enough. For long boards, there's the rip fence and from what I understand, a shorter table actually makes it easier to access. This goes against my natural "more is better" instinct so I would appreciate pointing out if I am about to make an expensive mistake. With that in mind, I have narrowed my Felder options to KF500 and KF700. The more expensive option is in the consideration mainly because of the DROs available for tilt and rip fence. Is it really worth the 40% higher cost? (For that matter, might I be equally happy with a Hammer option?) I am considering a belt-driven scoring blade and a dado option no matter the model I end up with. Sorry for the long form. Please roast my selection and thought process. Any feedback is highly appreciated. Cheers, Stan Sent with Proton Mail secure email.

Hello FOG, I have a brand new AD941, a RL 140 and a Nova Voyager drill press for sale. I am located in Austin, Texas. After a really long wait to get all of them I am moving and will not be able to take them with me. Since this is my first post I am not sure of what I can post. Many thanks to David for all of his excellent PDFs which were invaluable in the setup of the AD941.

I'm pretty sure I've seen a video of someone with a DRO installed on a shaper fence. Might be interesting to install one on my F700z. Any info? Thank you!

Hi all, For those who have 3-phase Felder and Minimax equipment, what plugs/outlets are you using? Does your equipment work fine with the L16-30P plugs and L15-30 outlets? (those are 3 hot plus 1 ground conductors). Or does the Felder/Minimax equipment require a 5-wire connection with both ground and neutral conductors? -Aaron

Hi all, Is anyone familiar with the item below (circled in red), from the Felder website and do you find it useful? I'm looking for a way of providing extra support for large sheet goods while processing them. The website lacks some useful info(no surprise) like how long is and how does it attach to the outrigger. Are there other ways of getting the needed support without using this product? Thanks in advance! Darrell Miller, Chico, Tx K700s, AD941, FB610

Dear Felder friends, I have managed to get hold of nearly all the missing parts from Felder to revive the old 400-800 morticing unit and attach it to my beloved BF6-31, but it seems they no longer stock one critical part, the rods that lock the morticer to the unit (part 71 on the attached numbered parts diagram for the series 7 machine, but same parts), and they are unable (or unwilling) to send me drawings or dimensions of these parts. I wonder if any of you have these locking rods connected to the locking handles, and whether you would be so kind as to take some photos and possibly measure some of the critical dimensions so that I can see if I can have them made at a local machine shop. Another mystery I have not solved is that the stand (75) appears to be too tall to slide under the morticing unit when mounted, and hence is not helpful in moving it into place to attach to the machine. When next to the machine the rod 66 is supposed to line up with the upper hole in the morticer 4, but the stand 75 is higher than the rod and hence I cannot slide it into place no matter how I raise or lower the morticer relative to the stand. If anybody has any ideas I would be most grateful. Please note that the diagram they have sent me is for connecting to a series 7 machine, I attach the diagram for the series 6 machine but the individual parts are not all labelled on it so it is harder to explain the issues. Thank you so much for your help! Davide

I was wondering if anyone has thoughts on automatic dovetailers. There are a few mindsets out there from what I have heard: Find a great local company to make them for you. They can make them cheaper than you can. I use a template to make them with a router, I don't make enough to justify the cost. I make them all by hand (probably not that many on a place like the FOG) My local drawer companies do not deliver the quality that I want. My local company cannot match all of the types of woods I want to make the drawers out of. My time frames make it hard to use a local company to do the drawers. My question is around if anyone has experience with different machine brands and the quality of each of them. Specifically Omec, Dodds, ETC. I have a Northtech now that is basically a clone of a Cantek JDT-75, Laguna DT-18 and a few others. My opinion of the Northtech is that it is competent. I am gonna spend this weekend going deeper into it to see if I can further dial it in to make me happier with it. Any thoughts? PK

Hi all, Im Ty from Washington. We have a wood business in Whidbey Island, WA. Last week I purchased a Format4 Dual 51 in CA and drove it home this weekend. The machine was manufactured in 2014. It has the helical head and 10HP configuration. The trip was uneventful like I like. Unload was tricky but smooth. Ive got to buff out some light rust picked up from the trip. Now we are on to the electricity question. Initial research indicates that single phase VHDs are out for both power and power sensitivity reasons. Rotary seems to be the way to go (please confirm). We have an unused 30HP idler motor still in crate, so would prefer to put that to work with the right phase converter setup. Reading over some threads here seem to indicate that the internal motorized controls require tight electrical specifications. Also would be interested to know if these machines have a soft start as that would be a data point for my phase converter decision. Anyway, nice to meet you all and very excited to get this machine operational. Cheers, Ty www.coastalwood.works

I have a 2008 RL160 dust collector that badly needs new filters. I ordered the replacement filters months ago, and today (hopefully) is the day that they get installed. Along with the filters, Felder supplied a one page instruction sheet about changing the filters. They make it look pretty simple (though obviously very dusty). Besides the basic 8-step procedure outlined on the instruction sheet, does anyone have any other suggestions WRT accomplishing the filter change and/or anything else I should do at the same time, as long as I am up to my shoulders inside the machine? I recall seeing a post from David Best, describing an automatic cleaning system that he fabricated and installed… I really need to do that as well, but it will obviously require some planning. Has anyone else done something similar? My RL160 is located in the same building as my shop, but in a separate room accessible only from outside… this makes it a real pain, especially in the winter to get out there and clean the filters on a regular basis, so a switch activated filter cleaning system (with the switch inside the shop) would be a dream come true. Thanks In Advance- Gerry Kmack Pagosa Springs CO

I'm writing in response to a request from bacchus6015 (Joe) about the Alpine Curved Door & Window class. This was an inaugural class, in that it was the first for the year, and the first dedicated to the topic. The group was awesome, mostly returning Alpine alums, most of us knew each other and had a great time. The class was focused on producing a small-scale, Euro-style, arch-top door. Joe Calhoon generated a drawing of the proposed door, which we then transferred to a sheet of MDF to produce a full-scale drawing, which we then turned into a machining template: The top of the sash and frame were produced using segmented arches, so we spent a fair amount if time discussing how/why/where to locate the joints, setting up a finger joint cutter, gluing/assembly techniques, and so on. By Saturday morning, we had processed all of the stiles, rails, panels, etc... into a door and frame, complete with the Zenit lift-off hinges and weather stripping: While I've built some arch- and elliptical- top storm doors in the past, I really appreciated the opportunity to see some other techniques. We wrapped up the door Saturday morning, and spent the rest of the day discussing some other curve-related work, such as curved-in-plane ("bow-front") sashes, joinery techniques, etc.... A big "Thank You!!!" to Joe Calhoon to accommodating this one-shot class, and to the other students for making it such a fun trip. -- Tom Gensmer Heritage Home Renewals, LLC Minneapolis, MN