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I am cleaning up the dash wiring harness after cleaning all the grounds. I have numerous print-outs from here, the Samba and other websites of suggestions of what to do with the yellow wire coming from instrument panel at T14/12...ground it somehow. The other end can be connected to the OXS light in pre '89 vanagons have an OXS light. What isn't clear is what to do with this end in 1988-1991 vanagons? This cut end runs to the red fuse panel connector in post '88 vans. It was just dangling free in Freedom. Is this okay or is there a better use? Duncan "Freedom van Go" 3.3L 1989 Westy

Hi all, thanks for adding me. Hoping to get some new ideas on my recent issue. I have a 85 weekender with a 95 ej22. Did the swap myself about 5 years ago and have been on lots of road trips since with no major problems, until now. Broke down a couple weeks ago on the PA turnpike coming home from camping. At first it was as if there was no gas when I pressed the pedal, then stalled and would not start back up. I was thinking fuel pump. Got towed home and replaced the fuel pump, then the fuel pump relay. Finally dawned on me to check wiring which is when I discovered the blown 30 amp fuse in the black box. Replaced it and the van fired right up. I took it for a drive and all seemed well until the engine got heated up. Fuse blew again. Replacing it when hot only gets me a little further down the road. If I let it cool down a bit before trying again I can go further still- so definitely seems temperature related. I had an electrical engineer friend help me troubleshoot and we found the the alternator was putting out normal voltage most of the time until the temp got high - then the voltage would go up to 15.8. I have a replacement alternator (another used from eBay) on the way, thinking it is the voltage regulator. However, just so I have a backup plan in mind should that not solve the issue, I am wondering if there could be other culprits that would cause this fuse to blow at high temps. Hoping to be on the road for a music festival in a week and a half!

Hi all, I just swapped out my original ej22 engine for one that's a bit fresher in my CA compliant KEP based conversion and it's exacerbated some old symptoms that I now think are caused by a slipping clutch. Since the KEP flywheel and kennedy pressure plate have some strange leopard print patterning on them I figured it'd be wise to swap out a new pressure plate and friction disc and have the flywheel resurfaced. From what I've read online (with one exception) folks say that the stock vanagon replacement pressure plate is compatible with our conversions. Is the difference between something like the Sachs unit and the KEP unit simply spring pressure and what effects would a driver notice in operation? Kennedy say that their stage 1 clutch is rated for 220 ft. lb. torque at the flywheel while stage 2 is rated for 270. I guess I went for stage 1, and I'm fairly certain even the NA ej25s don't break the 200 mark, so is there any really good reason to spend the extra cash on another KEP unit? Thanks! Also, just for fun, here's my super fashionable leopard print flywheel:

Hi folks, Can anyone recommend an alternative AC compressor compatible with a 1992 EG33, preferably new rather than remanufactured? Happy to do a little modification of brackets and/or hose fittings if necessary. Cheers, Matt

1997 ej22 that Small Car did the conversion about 10 years ago based on the paperwork I got with the van. In the on position the switch lights up, and I notice no change in how the van runs with the switch on or off. Anyone know what it does? The switch is located next to the ECU and is wired directly into the harnes. Thanks! PJ

Hi all, have a 3.6 in my 89 Westy and ran a used engine for a while. Long story short, did several thousand miles on that engine with the cooling system working well. Recircs the heater coolant through a pressure tank to open the thermostat. Engine ran cool, no problems. Just got around to rebuilding the engine (was always the plan) with new rings and bearings and had the heads planed and checked at a machine shop, valve train all well within spec. First start today and idled at 1200-1400 to get one heat cycle in and check the cooling system before driving. Warmed up normally then the coolant temp (monitored at the engine as have a LINK ECU) kept going to just over 100C (220F) when I shut it down. Bled the radiator again at this point. It kind of followed this pattern when I first installed the used engine. Let it cool, added some coolant, fired it up and started driving to begin ring seating process and get the revs up to blow remaining bubbles through the system. Again warmed up relatively normally but temp kept increasing...shut it down at about 108-110C (230+F). Checked the radiator lines and both were cool including the main outputs from the engine at the engine! Room temp so literally no flow going to the rad. Bled the rad: few bubbles but then fresh coolant. The system has a new radiator, new water pump, and all new hoses which has worked very well before. I installed a new (Subaru) thermostat but, now I look at it, I may have inadvertently installed the one which came with the engine originally. It was a Subaru part and I had no reason to believe it wasn't ok. Does this sound like anything but a stuck shut thermostat to anyone? Is there anything I'm missing? I've already tested the thermostat in my parts box and it works perfectly so I will replace in the morning. Means draining the system: is there anything else I should check when I have it drained again? Didn't find any problems when installing the rebuilt engine but I'm worried there's something odd going on here.

Every time I open my gas cap it sucks air, a big whoosh noise. I have the bottom rail going going to the canister and the canister going to the tank. the other two lines on the rail seem to be right, in and out because it runs :)