Grey/white is lighting I think. You need ign on (fuse it), battery (post from alt) fuse it, start signal (ign switch to ECU to starter solenoid circuit), CEL, coolant temp, oil pressure , tach (all thru round connector or run another wire).
Alt connects to post in black box and to starter lug. Alt light connects to blue in black box. Alt sense wire connects to battery post on alt, battery post on starter or all the way to + post on battery if you want.?
I think you have a 2003 2.5 NA ECU,harness and intake manifold with a swapped 2.0 (JDM?) block if it is stamped EJ20 on the block. Both the 2.5 and 2.0 ECUs look to be 4 connector and interchangeable. If you are looking to get engine parts in the future, the intake and up parts and sensors would be for the 2.5 NA.? I wonder what plugs and gap it's running. Only the 2.0 Turbo was WRX.
I’ve used the Smallcar diagram and Tom Shiels pages. ?I’ve identified the Ignition On and Alternator Lamp wires, I think. ?However, what is the gray wire?
So I finally got the wiring harness through the firewall and I’m about to embark on connecting it to the main harness. ?I think once the engine is installed it will be easy enough to know what plugs where, but my immediate challenge is figuring out exactly how to connect the harness to the black box in the engine bay. ?I’m still trying to figure out what to remove and what to leave behind. ?My harness was done by AV Subaru Conversions so I know the alternator-to-starter-to-black box harness was to be removed and not used, so that’s been removed.
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The first thing I did was bundle the harness up out of the way while I figure it out. ?
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This is where I’m a bit confused. ?It can’t be all that bad since there aren’t really that many wires. ?There are two large round plugs and I think one goes to the tail lights, so the other round plug likely plugs into the round plug on the harness. ?I will follow the Smallcar installation guide and see how that works out.
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If you would be willing to share some of your knowledge or experience with this part of the conversion, please do chime in!?
On Apr 4, 2025, at 7:42?AM, wallaces_21 via groups.io <grandfatherjim@...> wrote:
It's 22611-AJ020... Does that last part imply it is indeed intended for an EJ20? The original vehicle serial number is written on by hand; it is JF1GD67583H503164 and then also written there is 2003 Imp. RS.25 Aut. When I look that up on line it says it's a 2.5. I'm in Canada.?
On Thu, Apr 3, 2025, 11:50 p.m. Kevin via groups.io <91XR7@...> wrote: What would the PN be on the ECU itself (22611-xxxxx kind of number)
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Also what market are you in? different markets have different ways of doing thing. Plus i've seen Subaru ECUs listed for both the 2.0 and 2.5L (mostly non-north American markets)?
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And i'm with Wayne, someone may of used a EJ20 JDM long block as a replacement since they usually are pretty cheap (and low mileage).? the ECU may not be fully happy (at the edge of adaptation limits) but will work either way
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On Thu, Apr 3, 2025, 11:50 p.m. Kevin via <91XR7=[email protected]> wrote:
What would the PN be on the ECU itself (22611-xxxxx kind of number)
?
Also what market are you in? different markets have different ways of doing thing. Plus i've seen Subaru ECUs listed for both the 2.0 and 2.5L (mostly non-north American markets)?
?
And i'm with Wayne, someone may of used a EJ20 JDM long block as a replacement since they usually are pretty cheap (and low mileage).? the ECU may not be fully happy (at the edge of adaptation limits) but will work either way
What would the PN be on the ECU itself (22611-xxxxx kind of number)
?
Also what market are you in? different markets have different ways of doing thing. Plus i've seen Subaru ECUs listed for both the 2.0 and 2.5L (mostly non-north American markets)?
?
And i'm with Wayne, someone may of used a EJ20 JDM long block as a replacement since they usually are pretty cheap (and low mileage).? the ECU may not be fully happy (at the edge of adaptation limits) but will work either way
Last night I wrestled with the wiring harness trying to get through the small existing hole through which the original VW harness passed through the firewall. ?After several hours, I took a break for the night. ?Then again today I tried, only to give up with half the wiring through the hole. ?After some work I was able to extract the harness and resorted to plan B, which in hindsight should have been plan A. ?I used my multi-tool with a fresh Milwaukee metal blade and within minutes I had a nice roomy rectangular opening for the harness. ?After a bit of grinding to smooth the sharp edges and rolling two layers of Kilmat around the opening, I slipped the wiring harness right through. ?Then, I proceeded to create (an as yet unfinished) cover for the opening.
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Before it’s finished I will mount the ECU and seal the opening tightly. ?The foam is closed-cell so it should be weatherproof. ?I will also use some aluminum tape on the reverse side of the firewall and that ought to take care of it. ?I have not mounted the computer just yet as it is recommended that all the wires be connected in the engine bay before doing so. ?
I want to get in touch with the guy who did the conversion to discuss; hopefully he can shed some light on it if he remembers or kept records but we don’t speak each other’s language so it needs to be when I have a bilingual person handy.?
I expect to cross paths in June but meanwhile, how different might a 2.5 and a 2.0 ECU be?
Like would it be “works not too bad, let’s roll with it” or more like “not a chance, this ECU must be reprogrammed”?
I have a 09 2.5 w 80K miles with COMPLETE SC Vanagon installation--motor mount, wiring all tagged, intake--bolt in. New heads, T Belt, SS head gaskets with ARP studs, etc. It was removed from my van in favor of an upgrade. Located in CA.