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Hey All, After nearly 10 years, with very mixed feelings, I am putting Makika up for sale. An opportunity came up to buy an F-32 and it feels like time… (again ?) Makika is one of the fast 25c’s and has won most of the races in the NW, including R2AK, Swiftsure, Round the County, Northern Century etc. She’s a dream to sail upwind in a breeze, so stiff and accelerates off the wind like a skiff, a line honors contender with the big boats when it’s windy. Easy to single hand, easy to race double handed, 3 is the right number for general racing. Ready to race, stripped out boat with some major modifications such as opening up the cockpit (can’t tell you how much we have loved that) and replacing/removing the cabin main hatch to give a pretty sleek feel. She’s had all the usual old competitive modifications such as lowering the floats, moving the forestay forward, transom hung rudder etc Sails (lots - mostly Smyth): 3 Mains. 2 old/pracice. 1 that has a couple of years of racing life left. 4 Jibs. 2 in great racing condition. 3 Screachers, 1 still in good racing condition, flat upwind cut 2 Masthead spinnakers, one brand new, one 3 years old. 1 Fractional spinnaker - brand new, used for 30 mins 1 Masthead drifter (love this sail) with plenty of life left. High aspect water rat daggerboard High aspect water rat rudder Spare Rudder Spare rudder cassette Spare daggerboard Raymarine ST1000 auto pilot New Harken winches- 2023 Tohatsu 6ph outboard, white, new 2022 New B&G Zeus plotter, beam mounted repeaters, compass and S/D/T transducer in 2024. (No wind) Custom Carbon mainsheet/track handling system, with double high load harken cars (new 2024) Raptor foam decking Weighed a couple of months ago: 1,700lbs Empty weight, 1,880lbs sailing weight. I’m probably missing a bunch of stuff but everything you need to go fast. Price - who knows? The 25Cs seem to be listed anywhere from $30k to $90k depending on fit out and pedigree. Makika is an awesome, down to weight, fast boat that has won a lot of races, could not 100% on the conspetics. I’m thinking $65k but that will depend on timing and interest.

I noticed that the daggerboard case's notch where the line run on the daggerboard side is closed by a wood plank. To clarify this isn't the 2 struts supporting the mast step. This wood plank isn't laminated on its outside but varnished only !!! Is this how it was originally build ? Has anyone had to replace it ? Does this plank has any structural role ? Replacing it would be an open heart surgery but I'm thinking of laminating a gutter that in would slide inside and glue to the 2 strongly laminated side of the notch.

Hi. I’m working on the restoration of 25C #15. Her mast hasn’t been up in 21 years! I only assume the gin pole that was inside the boat has been used before, but I can’t figure out how to make it work. Does anyone else have gear that looks the same? Today I made the pole’s guy wires, running to triangulated floating rings per StephenB’s notes. But there’s no way to get everything attached by one person. I think the gin pole should notch in somehow between the mast and the mast foot part. This pole has a shaped wood insert bolted into the end, perhaps for compression strength. Do I need to devise a way to lock the mast rotation and mast foot together during raise/lower? Or is it better that the mast can still rotate during the operation? can you see enough from these photos, or anyone available for a video call to direct me on this? stumped! ps, I’ll post up the carbon chainplates retrofit video tonight. That project came out great. Just need a mast in the sky now… thanks Greg 707.486.3954

A big ThankYou for the collective advice on mast raising gear! That went well once I did what you all said ;) 2 rigging questions: 1) what’s the light, simple and strong enough spin tack line holder? I’m not willing to add a clutch to the deck for this. Is a cam cleat w/ integral line guide strong enough? 2) For synthetic capshrouds, what minimum length is needed in the lashings section to accommodate necessary adjustments for folding/unfolding? I’d like to bring the shroud’s terminal ring pretty close to the chainplate but don’t want to screw up with lashings too short to handle needed adjustments. (Theoretically I won’t need any folding adjustment since I moved the plates inboard per the Nelson/Ian discussion)…

Greetings! I haven't sailed the boat since late 2019 as I can best recall. She lives in a boat shed I built just for her. Geico has refused to renew my insurance, and I am not spending enough time at the lake to warrant keeping the boat. Perhaps it's time for her to go somewhere she gets properly sailed. I bought her from the original builder in March of 2019. This is the boat from Corsicana that is in the "Files" "For Sale" section. New Smyth main and jib - 2019. 2020 Smyth screacher and spin. New 2019 furling Maxi-Screacher from Elliott/Pattison. New Tohatsu 5 hp propane motor in 2020. No idea what these boats are selling for - any thoughts? If you're interested please send me a pm. Would appreciate insurance info, too. Thank you, Charlie Mayer Canyon Lake, Texas

Hi, I've been storing my F-25C after painting for years, and am about to retire. So It's on. My first priority is getting the mast raising system to be less fearsome. I'm looking for idea's regarding foolproof gin pole/mast base & baby stay configurations. My previous Farrier F-24 was easy enough for one guy alone. The 25 Isn't. Idea's? pics? Thanks Mark I Everett

Hello: I got some good advice on addressing a leaking daggerboard-downhaul, sheave plate (thanks to all who responded) so I am hoping I could get the same re chainplates. I want to remove and replace the chainplates on Mindbender. I was going to replace them with carbon fibre chainplates but time being of the essence I am going to just replace with stainless steel; also, the chainplate bulkhead seems to be glass fibre over core rather than carbon fibre which may present an issue. 1. For the shroud plates, apart from removing the bolts, is there anything I should know about removing the plates? Mine seem to be daubed with epoxy that I assume will crack away once I get the bolts out and that I will be able to work the plates out. 2. For the forestay chainplate, is there any advice about this? Do people typically replace this chainplate? I just see four horizontal bolt heads and assume that the nuts on the other side are captive so maybe I can back the bolts out. 3. Did Ian develop a carbon fibre solution for replacement of the forestay chainplate does anyone have the design that they would be willing to post to the site? Thanks Nick F-25c Mindbender.