Hey All,

After nearly 10 years, with very mixed feelings, I am putting Makika up for sale. An opportunity came up to buy an F-32 and it feels like time… (again ?)

Makika is one of the fast 25c’s and has won most of the races in the NW, including R2AK, Swiftsure, Round the County, Northern Century etc. She’s a dream to sail upwind in a breeze, so stiff and accelerates off the wind like a skiff, a line honors contender with the big boats when it’s windy. Easy to single hand, easy to race double handed, 3 is the right number for general racing.

Ready to race, stripped out boat with some major modifications such as opening up the cockpit (can’t tell you how much we have loved that) and replacing/removing the cabin main hatch to give a pretty sleek feel. She’s had all the usual old competitive modifications such as lowering the floats, moving the forestay forward, transom hung rudder etc

Sails (lots - mostly Smyth):

3 Mains. 2 old/pracice. 1 that has a couple of years of racing life left.
4 Jibs. 2 in great racing condition.
3 Screachers, 1 still in good racing condition, flat upwind cut
2 Masthead spinnakers, one brand new, one 3 years old.
1 Fractional spinnaker - brand new, used for 30 mins
1 Masthead drifter (love this sail) with plenty of life left.
High aspect water rat daggerboard
High aspect water rat rudder

Spare Rudder
Spare rudder cassette
Spare daggerboard
Raymarine ST1000 auto pilot
New Harken winches- 2023
Tohatsu 6ph outboard, white, new 2022
New B&G Zeus plotter, beam mounted repeaters, compass and S/D/T transducer in 2024. (No wind)

Custom Carbon mainsheet/track handling system, with double high load harken cars (new 2024)
Raptor foam decking

Weighed a couple of months ago: 1,700lbs Empty weight, 1,880lbs sailing weight.

I’m probably missing a bunch of stuff but everything you need to go fast.

Price - who knows? The 25Cs seem to be listed anywhere from $30k to $90k depending on fit out and pedigree. Makika is an awesome, down to weight, fast boat that has won a lot of races, could not 100% on the conspetics. I’m thinking $65k but that will depend on timing and interest.

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Oh, sorry, I thought yours was the 25c in Hawaii, my bad!

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Check with James Looby. ?He built 85 floats and mounted them on his 25c.

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?

CAUTION: Email Originated Outside of Auburn.

Hey Greg,

Sorry you didn’t get to check out Makika, I had no idea that dock didn’t connect to the shore until I tried walking there ?. ? We left early on Sunday as we weren’t competitive on Saturday with the broken daggerboard :(?

We’d briefly considered Humdinger’s floats too but really they are too small for an F25c, definitely tempting though…?

I’ll stop the thread hijack but will create a new thread on the float design stuff when I have something interesting to share. ??

cheers

Nige

On Aug 30, 2024, at 4:19?PM, Greg via groups.io <cartersboat@...> wrote:

Nick, do you think anyone's done a bill of materials for just the floats of an Fboat? From what I saw, Ian only spoke in vague whole-boat guidelines for the amount of foam, fabric and resin to buy. And the builders I've talked to pretty much lumped together purchasing between the hulls & beams. Sorry that is a totally unhelpful?answer!? Put it out on the Fboat list too; maybe Kurt in Albuquerque?who has another guy's unfinished F85 in his yard may have some math??

Nige, I was at Cow Bay and eager to see Makika, but didn't get a dinghy ride to the floating dock in time to meet you. Please do keep the group here informed on that design exercise / possible molds. I don't think I want to do that much work anytime?soon, but would like to help promote the evolution?of these boats.?

Russell Brown's float hull molds designed by Nigel Irens for Russell's lightweight tri Humdinger are sitting in a buddy's yard in the Sonoma wine country near me. I can facilitate access to them if that's of any use here.?

-Greg / Ravenswing

On Fri, Aug 30, 2024 at 1:38?PM Nick Sargent via <nicolas.sargent=[email protected]> wrote:

Greetings: I'm vacillating between repairing my existing F-25c float decks and just building new F-85 floats...I managed to get legal (well at least never used) set of plans. This month I am leaning towards building new floats. I can, of course, make a stab at the materials required; but, would anyone have a bill of materials for the F-85 floats?

?

Thanks

Nick Sargent

F-25c 16 - Mindbender

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Hey Greg,

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Hey Nick,

I don’t think you need to create all that work. Mine is built according to the plans and from what you wrote, so is Mojo’s. The cases were built as clamshell halves, so these rope slot covers were glued & screwed down. As long as they’re watertight, they are good.?

Is her steering all back to 100% after R2AK struggles??

?

Thanks for the picture. I believe there is no glass inside or might be real thin and peels like a veneer.?
My plan of attack at the next opportunity is to mould a glass or carbon sleeve outside the slot then fit it in the best I can with bunch of charged epoxy. The hardest part might be to remove and put back in place the daggerboard block at the bottom. I don't know it's it's low enough so I can fit my hand and tools there.??

Yours sounds the same as mine. And no, it’s not structurally important. Just has to be enough to hold the cheek block. It’s probably glassed in on the inside-case face. You could dress a coat of epoxy onto it if you believe it doesn’t have a proper seal coat. Otherwise I think you don’t worry.?

mine in photos.?

I noticed that the daggerboard case's notch where the line run on the daggerboard side is closed by a wood plank. To clarify this isn't the 2 struts supporting the mast step. This wood plank isn't laminated on its outside but varnished only !!!?
Is this how it was originally build ? Has anyone had to replace it ?

Does this plank has any structural role ??Replacing it would be an open heart surgery but I'm thinking of laminating a gutter that in would slide inside and glue to the 2 strongly laminated side of the notch.?

Hi Greg: You seem to have it all worked out. My mast support went into the boat at cabin sole level with two holes in the sole. A terrible idea. I filled the holes with core and carbon fibre and now use a plywood plate that drops in amongst the supports for my aft slung rudder and then the mast support goes into holes in the plate, rather than the boat.? When I repaired the holes I noted that the core was starting to rot around them. I think if you are not careful/unlucky that it is possible to put a lot of torque on the holes via the mast support.

Regards
Nick

Regards
Nick
Mindbender

A big ThankYou for the collective advice on mast raising gear! ?That went well once I did what you all said ;)

2 rigging questions:?
1) what’s the light, simple and strong enough spin tack line holder? I’m not willing to add a clutch to the deck for this. Is a cam cleat w/ integral line guide strong enough??

2) For synthetic capshrouds, what minimum length is needed in the lashings section to accommodate necessary adjustments for folding/unfolding? I’d like to bring the shroud’s terminal ring pretty close to the chainplate but don’t want to screw up with lashings too short to handle needed adjustments. (Theoretically I won’t need any folding adjustment since I moved the plates inboard per the Nelson/Ian discussion)…

Hey?
?I am looking for a F-25C or F-82R or similar for sale in Europe.?
I live around Hamburg Germany and would like to "testsail" one as well.

I look forward to to hearing from you.?

Greatings from Falko?