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Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed

Ralph Hulslander
 

I have one on my Clausing 8520 mill and one on my Delta 14" Bandsaw and I have two more
one for my Craftsman 12x36 Lathe and then ...

Ralph

On Wed, May 22, 2019 at 5:53 PM mike animal@... [4x6bandsaw] <4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:
?

??? ???? I wouldn't waste that motor on that bandsaw unless ya have s few to waste , that motor would much better serve on a lathe ,drill press , small mill . but that's just my thought

??? ??? YMMV

??? ??? animal

On 5/22/2019 2:29 PM, Ralph Hulslander rhulslander@... [4x6bandsaw] wrote:
?
Thanks?vreededesign, that's what I needed, now to get it done.

I have the cast gearbox but as I have said I am "thinking" (always a dangerous thing) of
mounting the Consew Brushless motor directly eliminating the gears.

I might even mill the gearbox?off the frame making a tighter configuration.

Of course I have no time until?possible this winter, even then it is a big if.

Ralph



On Wed, May 22, 2019 at 4:13 PM vreededesign@... [4x6bandsaw] <4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:
?

Ralph?

Not knowing exactly what your gearbox is like (there are many?variations), its safest to remove the output shaft first.?
If you look at the cross section drawing I did for Mike you'll see that there is nothing preventing the whole brass gear, shaft and all the bearings and internal spacers from being pushed out of the casting from the sawblade side of the gearbox once the sawblade drive wheel, the spacer behind it and the bearing retainer have been removed.? All you need is a ~3" long steel bar, bit less than 35mm in diameter with a 5/8" hole drilled through it and then press the whole shebang out. But that means a hydraulic press and taking the sawframe casting off the base. I believe that's how the factories assemble them (with the brass gear off of course), all of the different variations of the saw no matter who made them.
However most people haven't got a press to do that, so want to do it bit by bit.
Whether yours has a circlip on the shaft or not (most don't), tap out the shaft from the sawblade side with a soft hammer or undersized brass drift, if you hit it with a hard hammer you'll expand the end where you hit it and it won't slide through the bearings and will be truly locked up.? Also make sure there are no burrs on the shaft before you start or it will still lock up. The shaft should be bright and clean and would help to give it a quick lick with a strip of 400grit wet&dry paper just to be sure.
Once the shaft is out,? you'll have to drift out the bearings, seal and spacer from inside the casting, which will certainly ruin the seal and likely the bearing should be replaced at the same time esp. the one on the sawblade side as it doesn't get any oil from the gearbox. Heating the casting with propane torch or heatgun helps.
Removing the input shaft? is done by pulling the whole lot out from the pulley end. Use heat again. John Pitkin described a simple puller and how to use it in message 5289, 20May08 - jv
Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed

 

开云体育

??? ???? I wouldn't waste that motor on that bandsaw unless ya have s few to waste , that motor would much better serve on a lathe ,drill press , small mill . but that's just my thought

??? ??? YMMV

??? ??? animal

On 5/22/2019 2:29 PM, Ralph Hulslander rhulslander@... [4x6bandsaw] wrote:

?
Thanks?vreededesign, that's what I needed, now to get it done.

I have the cast gearbox but as I have said I am "thinking" (always a dangerous thing) of
mounting the Consew Brushless motor directly eliminating the gears.

I might even mill the gearbox?off the frame making a tighter configuration.

Of course I have no time until?possible this winter, even then it is a big if.

Ralph



On Wed, May 22, 2019 at 4:13 PM vreededesign@... [4x6bandsaw] <4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:
?

Ralph?

Not knowing exactly what your gearbox is like (there are many?variations), its safest to remove the output shaft first.?
If you look at the cross section drawing I did for Mike you'll see that there is nothing preventing the whole brass gear, shaft and all the bearings and internal spacers from being pushed out of the casting from the sawblade side of the gearbox once the sawblade drive wheel, the spacer behind it and the bearing retainer have been removed.? All you need is a ~3" long steel bar, bit less than 35mm in diameter with a 5/8" hole drilled through it and then press the whole shebang out. But that means a hydraulic press and taking the sawframe casting off the base. I believe that's how the factories assemble them (with the brass gear off of course), all of the different variations of the saw no matter who made them.
However most people haven't got a press to do that, so want to do it bit by bit.
Whether yours has a circlip on the shaft or not (most don't), tap out the shaft from the sawblade side with a soft hammer or undersized brass drift, if you hit it with a hard hammer you'll expand the end where you hit it and it won't slide through the bearings and will be truly locked up.? Also make sure there are no burrs on the shaft before you start or it will still lock up. The shaft should be bright and clean and would help to give it a quick lick with a strip of 400grit wet&dry paper just to be sure.
Once the shaft is out,? you'll have to drift out the bearings, seal and spacer from inside the casting, which will certainly ruin the seal and likely the bearing should be replaced at the same time esp. the one on the sawblade side as it doesn't get any oil from the gearbox. Heating the casting with propane torch or heatgun helps.
Removing the input shaft? is done by pulling the whole lot out from the pulley end. Use heat again. John Pitkin described a simple puller and how to use it in message 5289, 20May08 - jv
Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed

Ralph Hulslander
 

Thanks?vreededesign, that's what I needed, now to get it done.

I have the cast gearbox but as I have said I am "thinking" (always a dangerous thing) of
mounting the Consew Brushless motor directly eliminating the gears.

I might even mill the gearbox?off the frame making a tighter configuration.

Of course I have no time until?possible this winter, even then it is a big if.

Ralph



On Wed, May 22, 2019 at 4:13 PM vreededesign@... [4x6bandsaw] <4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:
?

Ralph?

Not knowing exactly what your gearbox is like (there are many?variations), its safest to remove the output shaft first.?
If you look at the cross section drawing I did for Mike you'll see that there is nothing preventing the whole brass gear, shaft and all the bearings and internal spacers from being pushed out of the casting from the sawblade side of the gearbox once the sawblade drive wheel, the spacer behind it and the bearing retainer have been removed.? All you need is a ~3" long steel bar, bit less than 35mm in diameter with a 5/8" hole drilled through it and then press the whole shebang out. But that means a hydraulic press and taking the sawframe casting off the base. I believe that's how the factories assemble them (with the brass gear off of course), all of the different variations of the saw no matter who made them.
However most people haven't got a press to do that, so want to do it bit by bit.
Whether yours has a circlip on the shaft or not (most don't), tap out the shaft from the sawblade side with a soft hammer or undersized brass drift, if you hit it with a hard hammer you'll expand the end where you hit it and it won't slide through the bearings and will be truly locked up.? Also make sure there are no burrs on the shaft before you start or it will still lock up. The shaft should be bright and clean and would help to give it a quick lick with a strip of 400grit wet&dry paper just to be sure.
Once the shaft is out,? you'll have to drift out the bearings, seal and spacer from inside the casting, which will certainly ruin the seal and likely the bearing should be replaced at the same time esp. the one on the sawblade side as it doesn't get any oil from the gearbox. Heating the casting with propane torch or heatgun helps.
Removing the input shaft? is done by pulling the whole lot out from the pulley end. Use heat again. John Pitkin described a simple puller and how to use it in message 5289, 20May08 - jv
Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed

[email protected]
 

Ralph?
Not knowing exactly what your gearbox is like (there are many?variations), its safest to remove the output shaft first.?
If you look at the cross section drawing I did for Mike you'll see that there is nothing preventing the whole brass gear, shaft and all the bearings and internal spacers from being pushed out of the casting from the sawblade side of the gearbox once the sawblade drive wheel, the spacer behind it and the bearing retainer have been removed.? All you need is a ~3" long steel bar, bit less than 35mm in diameter with a 5/8" hole drilled through it and then press the whole shebang out. But that means a hydraulic press and taking the sawframe casting off the base. I believe that's how the factories assemble them (with the brass gear off of course), all of the different variations of the saw no matter who made them.
However most people haven't got a press to do that, so want to do it bit by bit.
Whether yours has a circlip on the shaft or not (most don't), tap out the shaft from the sawblade side with a soft hammer or undersized brass drift, if you hit it with a hard hammer you'll expand the end where you hit it and it won't slide through the bearings and will be truly locked up.? Also make sure there are no burrs on the shaft before you start or it will still lock up. The shaft should be bright and clean and would help to give it a quick lick with a strip of 400grit wet&dry paper just to be sure.
Once the shaft is out,? you'll have to drift out the bearings, seal and spacer from inside the casting, which will certainly ruin the seal and likely the bearing should be replaced at the same time esp. the one on the sawblade side as it doesn't get any oil from the gearbox. Heating the casting with propane torch or heatgun helps.
Removing the input shaft? is done by pulling the whole lot out from the pulley end. Use heat again. John Pitkin described a simple puller and how to use it in message 5289, 20May08 - jv
Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed

 

开云体育

??? ??? well ifin it has a snap ring like mine did ya tap it from the other side

??? ??? animal

On 5/22/2019 7:24 AM, Ralph Hulslander rhulslander@... [4x6bandsaw] wrote:

?
Thanks Mike, but which way do I tap the shaft out?

Ralph

On Wed, May 22, 2019 at 6:13 AM vreededesign@... [4x6bandsaw] <4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:
?

Oops.... Just realised that the spacer ring between the drive wheel and the outer bearing of the gearbox IS necessary.? If its not there the shaft can slide axially by the amount of the spacer's width.??

Sorry, I can't edit the post now, but the paragraph beginning 'If the above is the way....' is wrong - jv?
Posted by: Ralph Hulslander


Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed

Ralph Hulslander
 

Thanks Mike, but which way do I tap the shaft out?

Ralph

On Wed, May 22, 2019 at 6:13 AM vreededesign@... [4x6bandsaw] <4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:
?

Oops.... Just realised that the spacer ring between the drive wheel and the outer bearing of the gearbox IS necessary.? If its not there the shaft can slide axially by the amount of the spacer's width.??

Sorry, I can't edit the post now, but the paragraph beginning 'If the above is the way....' is wrong - jv?
Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed

[email protected]
 

Oops.... Just realised that the spacer ring between the drive wheel and the outer bearing of the gearbox IS necessary.? If its not there the shaft can slide axially by the amount of the spacer's width.??
Sorry, I can't edit the post now, but the paragraph beginning 'If the above is the way....' is wrong - jv?
Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed

[email protected]
 

Whoa guys, Mike still needs help with his original question.
Lets think this through as to how it could be assembled.
The bearings should be flush with either side of the gearbox casting, i.e. spaced as far apart as they can go for best support of the output shaft (to stop it bending under the load of the worm drive or the tension in the sawblade).
Next the brass gear needs to be held in a fixed relationship to the worm on the gearbox input shaft.? That means somewhere in the system the brass gear & shaft? has to be stopped from moving axially in the gearbox casting.?With your output shaft having a circlip roughly in the middle of it, I'm picking that it goes in the inside of the bearing closest to the sawband drive wheel. With bearing retainer ring on the other side of the same bearing, the brass gear + shaft is locked in position into the gearbox casting.??
I think the spacer (2nd from left top row in yr pic) is in between the sawband drive wheel and the inner of the? that bearing (not the bearing retainer, it's too big ID to bear on the spacer).? My saw has one here, as do others.??Its a loose fit on the shaft and spaces the drive wheel off the adjacent bearing.
The only thing left is to seal in the oil (std bearings are 6202 Z with one shield which won't stop oil leaking through).? 6202 2RS bearing have 2 rubber seals but even these are not meant to seal in oil, so there has to be a lip seal between the bearing (normally 35mmOD x 15mmID x 7mmW lip seal)
Lastly the bearing outers need to be spaced apart so they are in proper relationship to each other and that will be the big diameter spacer (in the middle of yr pic)
Crude drawing attached.
My RF clone saw has this arrangement of spacers, bearings and seal but without the circlip on the shaft and relies on friction of bearings on the shaft and housing to stop axial movement of brass gear.?
If the above is the way to assemble your G/box (I'm really just guessing from what is there), then the spacer between the bandwheel and the bearing next to it is not necessary, as the key and grubscrew will hold the bandwheel in position on the shaft and the shaft can't move axially either because of the bearing retainer ring and the circlip.?
Think about the order of assembly. You must not push or bang on a bearings inner race to seat the outer race.? The pro's like to push an assembled shaft and its bearings into the housing as a unit, but they have presses and jigs to do it.? If you can do it that way,?
Otherwise you can assemble bit by bit, but only if the shaft is a sliding fit in the bearing inners (it can be with your setup and still have positive locking of the shaft in axial position, so you could sand the shaft down with a strip of 400G wet&dry paper until they do just slide in).? Tap in the bearing that's next to the bandwheel first with a big 1/2" drive socket against its outer race, making it flush with edge of the casting, then slide in the shaft + circlip from the gearbox side, then the bearing OD spacer and push in the lip seal, then tap in the inner bearing until its hard up against the lipseal/spacer. Finally fix the brass gear back to the shaft.
Rgds - jv
Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed [1 Attachment]

 

When you are finished with the gear replacement, you can make a plexiglass or acrylic gear box cover so you can see the oil level.? I did this an placed a 1/4" bolt towards the top that can be unscrewed to add more oil if/when needed.??

See picture of mine:??
Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed

 

开云体育

??? ??? yer pretty much on yer own when it comes to these saws unless ya get a "real one " I went through 7 or 8 different manuals tryin to figure? how mine went together . & all were different for the part I was workin on .

??? ??? I can tell ya

??? ??? 1. unplug the machine & remove the gear box cover & get all of the crap out of it

??? ??? 2. remove gear from shaft

??? ??? 3. remove the drive wheel & key ,? & don't loose the spacer if ya have one

??? ??? 4. remove 3 screw's & retainer ring

??? ??? 5. carefully tap the shaft out KEEPING TRACK ON WHAT CAME FROM WHERE !!!

??? ??? there should be 2 bearings, a large diameter spacer , & a seal .

??? ??? have fun

??? ??? animal

??? ???


On 5/21/2019 10:08 AM, Ralph Hulslander rhulslander@... [4x6bandsaw] wrote:

?
My bandsaw is a Buffalo with the solid cast gear box!

Ralph

On Tue, May 21, 2019 at 12:42 PM Ralph Hulslander rhulslander@... [4x6bandsaw] <4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:
?
How exactly, step by step does one disassemble the gear box? Who knew you were supposed to check the gear box grease/oil once a year?

Now I need to replace the gears but do not knw where to begin!

Ralph
Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed

Ralph Hulslander
 

Actually I am "thinking" of adding a directly and not using any gears. The motor has lots of torque at 50 rpm to 4,000 rpm.

I have one on my Delta 14" bandsaw works great.

Ralph

On Tue, May 21, 2019 at 3:08 PM Jerry Durand jdurand@... [4x6bandsaw] <4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:
?

Easy enough to make your own.? Length of clear plastic rod.? Turn one end down a bit then thread for a standard nut you have handy.? Taper the end to a point.

Insert through hold in cover with o-ring between cover and step left from turning down.? Install nut.? Replace cover.

If you got the length right, when the tapered part is immersed in oil the part out of the box will be dark.? When in air, it will be light.

Done.

Sent via my UFO, an Interstellar Alien 42G smartphone

On 5/21/19 11:50 AM, sparco505 sparco505@... [4x6bandsaw] wrote:
There was a seller in the forum that sold an oil level indicator that you could mount on the gear box coverplate. I dont know if he still selling them? Once you got it tore down and repaired an oil level indicator would be a nice option. At least you'd know when the gearbox is low on lubricant. Hope this helps.

Mt. Airy, MD



Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7 edge, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone


--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc.

tel: +1 408 356-3886
@DurandInterstel

Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed

 

开云体育

Easy enough to make your own.? Length of clear plastic rod.? Turn one end down a bit then thread for a standard nut you have handy.? Taper the end to a point.

Insert through hold in cover with o-ring between cover and step left from turning down.? Install nut.? Replace cover.

If you got the length right, when the tapered part is immersed in oil the part out of the box will be dark.? When in air, it will be light.

Done.

Sent via my UFO, an Interstellar Alien 42G smartphone

On 5/21/19 11:50 AM, sparco505 sparco505@... [4x6bandsaw] wrote:
There was a seller in the forum that sold an oil level indicator that you could mount on the gear box coverplate. I dont know if he still selling them? Once you got it tore down and repaired an oil level indicator would be a nice option. At least you'd know when the gearbox is low on lubricant. Hope this helps.

Mt. Airy, MD



Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7 edge, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone


-- 
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc.

tel: +1 408 356-3886
@DurandInterstel

Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed

 

开云体育

There was a seller in the forum that sold an oil level indicator that you could mount on the gear box coverplate. I dont know if he still selling them? Once you got it tore down and repaired an oil level indicator would be a nice option. At least you'd know when the gearbox is low on lubricant. Hope this helps.

Mt. Airy, MD



Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7 edge, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: "Ralph Hulslander rhulslander@... [4x6bandsaw]" <4x6bandsaw@...>
Date: 5/21/19 12:41 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: "November X-Ray n8676x@... [4x6bandsaw]" <4x6bandsaw@...>
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] HF Bandsaw Help needed

?

How exactly, step by step does one disassemble the gear box? Who knew you were supposed to check the gear box grease/oil once a year?

Now I need to replace the gears but do not knw where to begin!

Ralph

On Sun, May 19, 2019 at 7:35 PM mike animal@... [4x6bandsaw] <4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:
?
[Attachment(s) from mike included below]

?? evening folks . I have a HF 62377 that I bought used , I opened it
up to chek the oil & to no surprise there was none . so I dove into it &
the seal was wadded up wrapped around the shaft under the Brass gear

??? ??? on the drive wheel shaft , the manual show's different I cant
find the pic's I took with a different camera when I took it apart , so
here's a few pics of my parts & hopefully one of you pros can give e a
nudge in the right

??? ??? direction . I have the seal, shaft with a cir clip , (which
does not show in the parts list ) 2 bearings , 1 what looks like a
spacer for between the bearings or between 1 bearing & the seal ? & a
spacer t. I'm pretty sure that

??? ??? these parts all came out of the? machined cavity (that the
bearings & seal fit into ) between the retainer with the 3 screws & the
bronze or brass gear on the driven shaft in the gear box , I'm just
uncertain of the

??? ??? order they go

??? ??? tks

??? ??? animal
Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed

Ralph Hulslander
 

My bandsaw is a Buffalo with the solid cast gear box!

Ralph

On Tue, May 21, 2019 at 12:42 PM Ralph Hulslander rhulslander@... [4x6bandsaw] <4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:
?

How exactly, step by step does one disassemble the gear box? Who knew you were supposed to check the gear box grease/oil once a year?

Now I need to replace the gears but do not knw where to begin!

Ralph

On Sun, May 19, 2019 at 7:35 PM mike animal@... [4x6bandsaw] <4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:
?
[Attachment(s) from mike included below]

?? evening folks . I have a HF 62377 that I bought used , I opened it
up to chek the oil & to no surprise there was none . so I dove into it &
the seal was wadded up wrapped around the shaft under the Brass gear

??? ??? on the drive wheel shaft , the manual show's different I cant
find the pic's I took with a different camera when I took it apart , so
here's a few pics of my parts & hopefully one of you pros can give e a
nudge in the right

??? ??? direction . I have the seal, shaft with a cir clip , (which
does not show in the parts list ) 2 bearings , 1 what looks like a
spacer for between the bearings or between 1 bearing & the seal ? & a
spacer t. I'm pretty sure that

??? ??? these parts all came out of the? machined cavity (that the
bearings & seal fit into ) between the retainer with the 3 screws & the
bronze or brass gear on the driven shaft in the gear box , I'm just
uncertain of the

??? ??? order they go

??? ??? tks

??? ??? animal
Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed [1 Attachment]

Ralph Hulslander
 

How exactly, step by step does one disassemble the gear box? Who knew you were supposed to check the gear box grease/oil once a year?

Now I need to replace the gears but do not knw where to begin!

Ralph

On Sun, May 19, 2019 at 7:35 PM mike animal@... [4x6bandsaw] <4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:
?
[Attachment(s) from mike included below]

?? evening folks . I have a HF 62377 that I bought used , I opened it
up to chek the oil & to no surprise there was none . so I dove into it &
the seal was wadded up wrapped around the shaft under the Brass gear

??? ??? on the drive wheel shaft , the manual show's different I cant
find the pic's I took with a different camera when I took it apart , so
here's a few pics of my parts & hopefully one of you pros can give e a
nudge in the right

??? ??? direction . I have the seal, shaft with a cir clip , (which
does not show in the parts list ) 2 bearings , 1 what looks like a
spacer for between the bearings or between 1 bearing & the seal ? & a
spacer t. I'm pretty sure that

??? ??? these parts all came out of the? machined cavity (that the
bearings & seal fit into ) between the retainer with the 3 screws & the
bronze or brass gear on the driven shaft in the gear box , I'm just
uncertain of the

??? ??? order they go

??? ??? tks

??? ??? animal
Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed

 

开云体育

??? ??? tks JV , mine in one of the new reddish color they are using these days .? I did go by the store today when I was in town & it looks like the small bushing is between the drive wheel & the retainer , to me it looks

??? ??? like that put's the wheel's out of skew (sp) if that make's any sense , can anyone confirm where the small spacer go's? I must have DL'd 10 or so manuals yesterday & still I'm no closer other than less ink

??? ??? tks

??? ??? animal


??? ???

On 5/20/2019 3:51 AM, vreededesign@... [4x6bandsaw] wrote:

?

Is yours the HF with the bolt-on gearbox or is it cast into the sawframe?

The Files section has a manual for a HF37151 with bolt-on gearbox, which has a shaft with a circlip on it.
The parts list is crudely drawn but seems to show the oil seal on the outside , then 2 bearings then the circlip.? Then there's a 'pin' which you don't show (but might be a key) since the next part is the brass gear.?

The following site shows dismantling and rebuilding of a bolt on HF gearbox:?.? Doesn't go into the output side of the gearbox, but you might appeal to the site owner for any extra info he might have.

Rgds - jv
Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed

[email protected]
 

Is yours the HF with the bolt-on gearbox or is it cast into the sawframe?
The Files section has a manual for a HF37151 with bolt-on gearbox, which has a shaft with a circlip on it.
The parts list is crudely drawn but seems to show the oil seal on the outside , then 2 bearings then the circlip.? Then there's a 'pin' which you don't show (but might be a key) since the next part is the brass gear.?

The following site shows dismantling and rebuilding of a bolt on HF gearbox:?.? Doesn't go into the output side of the gearbox, but you might appeal to the site owner for any extra info he might have.

Rgds - jv
HF Bandsaw Help needed

 

evening folks . I have a HF 62377 that I bought used , I opened it up to chek the oil & to no surprise there was none . so I dove into it & the seal was wadded up wrapped around the shaft under the Brass gear

??? ??? on the drive wheel shaft , the manual show's different I cant find the pic's I took with a different camera when I took it apart , so here's a few pics of my parts & hopefully one of you pros can give e a nudge in the right

??? ??? direction . I have the seal, shaft with a cir clip , (which does not show in the parts list ) 2 bearings , 1 what looks like a spacer for between the bearings or between 1 bearing & the seal ? & a spacer t. I'm pretty sure that

??? ??? these parts all came out of the? machined cavity (that the bearings & seal fit into ) between the retainer with the 3 screws & the bronze or brass gear on the driven shaft in the gear box , I'm just uncertain of the

??? ??? order they go

??? ??? tks

??? ??? animal
Re: Homemade Bandsaw Blade Welder

 

Craigslist, Facebook, nextdoor, etc. Post up a request looking to up cycle old microwaves. I had 10 in less than a week. If you're I. The DFW are, I'll happily give you one.

Best regards and God bless,
Darren McCarley
817-793-8241
On May 16, 2019, at 9:13 AM, "ac9459427@... [4x6bandsaw]" <4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:

?

I am on the lookout for a discarded microwave oven and have viewed YouTube videos on rewinding them. I didn't learn anything I didn't already know but it was encouraging to see the current level of activity. I have also viewed videos on silver soldering blades and have tried just about every technique described. I have made fixtures for grinding the scarf joint, holding the blade ends for soldering and using both wire solder and strip solder of several different brands. The best results were with low melting point, (430 deg F) solder which would not affect the hardness of the blade. I even rigged a test fixture for measuring the strength of the joint of test pieces. All withstood a tension of 400 lbs and some up to 675 lb.,( the maximum I could measure). I spent a lot of time on this and I've pretty much given up on it. If I can find a microwave oven transformer that will be my next move. I'll post results.?
Re: Homemade Bandsaw Blade Welder

 

I am on the lookout for a discarded microwave oven and have viewed YouTube videos on rewinding them. I didn't learn anything I didn't already know but it was encouraging to see the current level of activity. I have also viewed videos on silver soldering blades and have tried just about every technique described. I have made fixtures for grinding the scarf joint, holding the blade ends for soldering and using both wire solder and strip solder of several different brands. The best results were with low melting point, (430 deg F) solder which would not affect the hardness of the blade. I even rigged a test fixture for measuring the strength of the joint of test pieces. All withstood a tension of 400 lbs and some up to 675 lb.,( the maximum I could measure). I spent a lot of time on this and I've pretty much given up on it. If I can find a microwave oven transformer that will be my next move. I'll post results.?
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