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Vintage Dayton saw. I’d like to inspect the lube in the gear box but cannot get the cover off. Removing the screws at the corners allows the cover to lift off a few mm, but not all the way. What is holding the cover on? What is the function of the screw at the tip of the red arrow/ phd

I removed the tension spring to allow me to adjust the swing arm. Any suggestions on how to reinstall that beast?

I've got an older harbor freight 4x6 bandsaw that is probably 20 years old. It's green if that helps, and if I saw lightly, in ether horizontal or vertical mode, it seems to work. If I push on the work like my old saw, it pops the blade off the bottom wheel. I have not gone and replaced anything yet. I did change the oil (first time I think) and took the top wheel apart and put it back together with tighter tolerances. I've replaced the blade twice. The top wheel seems to be lined up with the bottom wheel when it's running without pressure. I'm not sure how to check it running. The top alignment screw is tight, and mostly sticks out. The gearbox at this point needs a push to get it started, and then it runs well. I think it needs a rebuild, but I'm not sure about the procedure. I can't find a manual. What ideas do you all have to keep it from throwing blades, and run a bit better?

I did the hydraulic feed mod to my saw years ago I now I’m not sure it was a good idea. The problem is that hydraulic feed controls the rate of descent, but not the pressure. I seem to throw the blade more than when I had the old spring. I have to set the drop speed very low, or risk throwing the blade. Maybe this is due to another problem in my saw, but I don’t recall throwing blades when I had the spring, and I think it’s because the spring sets pressure, while hydraulics set speed. Any advice?

Has anyone attempted to file or grind the base to bring it square to the blade over the full range of vertical travel? You can't adjust anything at the pivot point on these machines

A vintage Dayton 4 x 6 saw. All blade guides removed. The blade makes an angle of almost 45 degrees with the table! For the photo, I've attached a magnet to the blade and positioned a square on the table, for emphasis.

Hi Guys, Welcome to share with me the comments of above subject. Why people need 60 , 30 degrees for cutting ? In what condition, what material, what applications we need these angles ? Any comments will be highly appreciated. Thanks.

I went back and forth adjusting the blade guides, tracking, and whatnot over and over again trying to get my Harbor Freight red to cut straight. Eventually I realized I was chasing my tail by putting a long straight edge on the vise bringing the saw up and down. At the top of the straight edge, the blade was at least a couple mm to the right (if facing the on-off switch) of where it ended up when it finally came all the way down! So this means the entire head is attached to the table crooked and the head of the saw is coming down to the table at an angle, rather than perpendicular. Ugh. Is there any way I can deal with this problem? The saw assembly seems to pivot on this big pin that is between two pillow block-like things that are part of the table casting. I don't see anywhere that I could add a shim or anything to correct this. Is there something I can do to get this cutting straight down and perpendicular with the table? Is the whole thing just junk because of this manufacturing flaw?

This might helphttps://manualzz.com/doc/26936882/saws-h-saw-rf-1018s-sv--part-listSent from Samsung Galaxy smartphone.

I've had a problem with getting good vertical blade alignment for quite awhile now. In that, while I can get the blade vertical, it also is displaced. In other words, it doesn't have just pure twist, it's pushed to one side or the other. This makes it difficult to get proper alignment in the other axis, and also leads to strange interactions between blade tension and blade tracking. I did some testing by clamping a short length of aluminum flat stock to the blade and then used it to twist the blade so it was exactly vertical (this was done with the blade guide assemblies removed, but the mounting brackets were still installed). This showed me how far off the 8mm screw holes for the blade guide assemblies were, since they should be more-or-less in line with the aluminum flat. I observed a number of things that were wrong. For the bottom blade guide bracket, the 8mm hole was in line (this was good), but the dovetail boss wasn't parallel to the bar. It was so far off that it was impossible to adjust the blade guide to avoid moving the blade around in order to get the blade vertically aligned. I also found that the upper blade guide bracket's 8mm hole did NOT line up with my aluminum bar, so it, too, would cause the same problem. Now, it would be possible to machine the bottom support bracket to improve the situation but that wasn't going to work with the upper bracket. Plus, I really didn't want to modify the OEM brackets, just in case something went wrong. For these reasons I decided to make two replacement blade guide brackets. I had originally considered making a trunnion-like arrangement that would only permit adjustments around the blade-neutral axis, to get nothing but twist, no displacement -- but that was getting complicated and looked like it would require making new blade guides, too. Instead, I came up with a relatively simple change to the OEM blade guide brackets that would add additional adjustment range, enough to produce something a lot like the trunnion scheme. The following photos show a lot of what I did to accomplish this. FYI, the replacement mounting brackets consist of two parts. One is the vertical part (when the saw frame is vertical), which is bolted to the saw frame; and the second is the support piece, where the blade guide with its three ball bearings is attached. This photo shows the lower vertical part, after marking the location where the OEM bracket's 8mm hole intersected the aluminum bar when twisting the blade for verticality. I used this to (eventually) determine where the horizontal support piece needed to be attached. The 8mm screw hole actually is centered on the edge of the vertical bar, but this isn't an issue because the 8mm mounting hole will be drilled/tapped in the horizontal piece. The piece below is the horizontal piece. I drilled/tapped an 8mm screw hole centered on one axis, and .350" from the left edge (MK2 version, mentioned below). This hole is used to mount the blade guide assembly. I aligned the piece so its 8mm hole was over the mark on the edge of the vertical part, and rotated it so its long axis was parallel to the aluminum bar when the blade was twisted to get proper vertical alignment, then used a sharpie to draw the outline of the vertical piece. This was used to determine where I needed to drill the mounting hole for screwing the horizontal and vertical pieces together. The photo below shows the two pieces screwed together, from a side view. The photo below shows the assembly from the top. Note that the horizontal piece looks a bit different. It is the "MK2" version, after I learned a few things. The rounded corner is there to provide clearance between the saw blade and the mount piece. A nice benefit of using this two-piece approach is that I can rotate the top horizontal part, providing additional adjustment range. The additional adjustment range works pretty well, at least on my bandsaw. Here's a photo showing the current setup, looking down the blade toward the two blade guides: The result is a vertical cut that is pretty good. And I didn't have to do much ad

I’m pretty happy with my saw now but am looking to make a vise modification so I can use the saw to remove material at odd angles, etc. on smaller parts before working on the lathe or mill. Designs are found on the internet that are separate pallets to hold the part which is clamped in the saw vice. If you have made some tooling to hold smaller flat and round stock at odd angle’s relative to the blade, please post some pictures of your design. I’m just looking for some ideas and inspiration.