Whoa guys, Mike still needs help with his original question.
Lets think this through as to how it could be assembled.
The bearings should be flush with either side of the gearbox casting, i.e. spaced as far apart as they can go for best support of the output shaft (to stop it bending under the load of the worm drive or the tension in the sawblade).
Next the brass gear needs to be held in a fixed relationship to the worm on the gearbox input shaft.? That means somewhere in the system the brass gear & shaft? has to be stopped from moving axially in the gearbox casting.?With your output shaft having a circlip roughly in the middle of it, I'm picking that it goes in the inside of the bearing closest to the sawband drive wheel. With bearing retainer ring on the other side of the same bearing, the brass gear + shaft is locked in position into the gearbox casting.??
I think the spacer (2nd from left top row in yr pic) is in between the sawband drive wheel and the inner of the? that bearing (not the bearing retainer, it's too big ID to bear on the spacer).? My saw has one here, as do others.??Its a loose fit on the shaft and spaces the drive wheel off the adjacent bearing.
The only thing left is to seal in the oil (std bearings are 6202 Z with one shield which won't stop oil leaking through).? 6202 2RS bearing have 2 rubber seals but even these are not meant to seal in oil, so there has to be a lip seal between the bearing (normally 35mmOD x 15mmID x 7mmW lip seal)
Lastly the bearing outers need to be spaced apart so they are in proper relationship to each other and that will be the big diameter spacer (in the middle of yr pic)
Crude drawing attached.
My RF clone saw has this arrangement of spacers, bearings and seal but without the circlip on the shaft and relies on friction of bearings on the shaft and housing to stop axial movement of brass gear.?
If the above is the way to assemble your G/box (I'm really just guessing from what is there), then the spacer between the bandwheel and the bearing next to it is not necessary, as the key and grubscrew will hold the bandwheel in position on the shaft and the shaft can't move axially either because of the bearing retainer ring and the circlip.?
Think about the order of assembly. You must not push or bang on a bearings inner race to seat the outer race.? The pro's like to push an assembled shaft and its bearings into the housing as a unit, but they have presses and jigs to do it.? If you can do it that way,?
Otherwise you can assemble bit by bit, but only if the shaft is a sliding fit in the bearing inners (it can be with your setup and still have positive locking of the shaft in axial position, so you could sand the shaft down with a strip of 400G wet&dry paper until they do just slide in).? Tap in the bearing that's next to the bandwheel first with a big 1/2" drive socket against its outer race, making it flush with edge of the casting, then slide in the shaft + circlip from the gearbox side, then the bearing OD spacer and push in the lip seal, then tap in the inner bearing until its hard up against the lipseal/spacer. Finally fix the brass gear back to the shaft.
