Ralph?
Not knowing exactly what your gearbox is like (there are many?variations), its safest to remove the output shaft first.?
If you look at the cross section drawing I did for Mike you'll see that there is nothing preventing the whole brass gear, shaft and all the bearings and internal spacers from being pushed out of the casting from the sawblade side of the gearbox once the sawblade drive wheel, the spacer behind it and the bearing retainer have been removed.? All you need is a ~3" long steel bar, bit less than 35mm in diameter with a 5/8" hole drilled through it and then press the whole shebang out. But that means a hydraulic press and taking the sawframe casting off the base. I believe that's how the factories assemble them (with the brass gear off of course), all of the different variations of the saw no matter who made them.
However most people haven't got a press to do that, so want to do it bit by bit.
Whether yours has a circlip on the shaft or not (most don't), tap out the shaft from the sawblade side with a soft hammer or undersized brass drift, if you hit it with a hard hammer you'll expand the end where you hit it and it won't slide through the bearings and will be truly locked up.? Also make sure there are no burrs on the shaft before you start or it will still lock up. The shaft should be bright and clean and would help to give it a quick lick with a strip of 400grit wet&dry paper just to be sure.
Once the shaft is out,? you'll have to drift out the bearings, seal and spacer from inside the casting, which will certainly ruin the seal and likely the bearing should be replaced at the same time esp. the one on the sawblade side as it doesn't get any oil from the gearbox. Heating the casting with propane torch or heatgun helps.
Removing the input shaft? is done by pulling the whole lot out from the pulley end. Use heat again. John Pitkin described a simple puller and how to use it in message 5289, 20May08 - jv
