Ralph?
Not knowing exactly what your gearbox is
like (there are many?variations),
its safest to remove the output shaft first.?
If you look at the cross section drawing I
did for Mike you'll see that there is nothing
preventing the whole brass gear, shaft and all
the bearings and internal spacers from being
pushed out of the casting from the sawblade
side of the gearbox once the sawblade drive
wheel, the spacer behind it and the bearing
retainer have been removed.? All you need is a
~3" long steel bar, bit less than 35mm in
diameter with a 5/8" hole drilled through it
and then press the whole shebang out. But that
means a hydraulic press and taking the
sawframe casting off the base. I believe
that's how the factories assemble them (with
the brass gear off of course), all of
the different variations of the saw no matter
who made them.
However most people haven't got a press to
do that, so want to do it bit by bit.
Whether yours has a circlip on the shaft or
not (most don't), tap out the shaft from the
sawblade side with a soft hammer or undersized
brass drift, if you hit it with a hard hammer
you'll expand the end where you hit it and it
won't slide through the bearings and will be
truly locked up.? Also make sure there are no
burrs on the shaft before you start or it will
still lock up. The shaft should be bright and
clean and would help to give it a quick lick
with a strip of 400grit wet&dry paper just
to be sure.
Once the shaft is out,? you'll have to
drift out the bearings, seal and spacer from
inside the casting, which will certainly ruin
the seal and likely the bearing should be
replaced at the same time esp. the one on the
sawblade side as it doesn't get any oil from
the gearbox. Heating the casting with propane
torch or heatgun helps.
Removing the input shaft? is done by
pulling the whole lot out from the pulley end.
Use heat again. John Pitkin described a simple
puller and how to use it in message 5289,
20May08 - jv
