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Hi There Does anyone know were I can get replacements/alternatives for the KB Scale Pins used in their link and pin couplers. Cheers

Meanwhile I was approached a couple of weeks ago out of the blue by the Railway Magazine guide to Modelling, the free newspaper found in model shops etc all over the country as they are doing a Welsh NG theme next month and wanted an FfR layout to feature. So 1500 words and a selection of photos of Dinas 1869 should appear in the December issue and I have made sure that the 014 concept is highlighted (bar the editors blue pencil). Nice to have some specialist coverage in a magazine usually very much RTR OO. Paul

Hello together, I just want to introduce myself - not only as a new member to this group, but also a new member to the 7mm Narrow Gauge Association. Born, raised, and living in Germany, I had my first trainset with age 5, nearly 50 years back. Since then I have always been a more on than off model railroader with changing interests: German Federal Railways, Austrian Narrow Gauge, US logging, US traction, European Feldbahn and forestry railways - most in photography and all in modeling from scales TT, HO, N to 1/4". For a few years I owned a laser cutter, and tried my hands on the construction of some kits, but doing this collided with my then involvement working as a database administrator. The last few years saw some changes from becoming a train engineer with the Deutsche Bahn, over grown children moving out of their parent's house, to lately a severe accident with my bicycle, which turned most of my life upside down. So now with the expectation of more spare time I try to make a new intense start at model railroading in 7mm as well as N scales, combining my various interests, experience, and tools - both analogue and digital. Regards, Ralf -- ralF with F..eldbahn 7mmnga member #5260 ralf-mit-f.com

I went to the Liverpool (Sydney) model railway exhibition last Sunday. In my opinion the best layout there was "Fingal". This is a layout based on a Tasmanian 3'6'' gauge main line railway. It was modeled in 00 scale using 14mm gauge track. After a couple of seconds of mental arithmetic I realised that this is exact scale/gauge ratio. The only significant difference between his track and mine ( 0 scale 2' gauge) was the flangeway width. The locomotives are powered with BullAnt mechanisms. The layout is quite large and is very well constructed, sceniced and operated. The correct guage does make the model look so much more realistic. I haven't come across this combination before. Is it popular? Given that it is also 14mm gauge, it helps broaden the base and therefore safeguards our use of the gauge. Regards, Michael Milway PS He still had people thinking it was H0 scale.

What is the current status of KB Scale? The web site just says that a new web page is coming. Regards, Michael Milway P.S. Has anyone been successfully using re-gauged Dundas Models wheelsets?

Has anyone used a chassis from Hollywood Foundry for 14mm gauge? If so what back to back and flange thickness did you choose? Roy's standards really require a flange thickness of 0.6mm. The RP 25 offerings seem to be greater than this. Regards, Michael Milway

I have made a simple start on a group wiki which can be found here: wiki ( /g/o14/wiki/home ). If possible we will move a lot of the o14 group material here - probably into dedicate sections and pages. Please feel free to contribute, although please ask the moderators (via a post on this thread) before doing any major structural changes.

Hello, Has anyone used Zamzoodled couplers with 21mm gauge in 7mm scale to represent 3ft gauge; or with scale metre gauge? Is there a standard coupler centre height above rail level for gauges wider than 14mm gauge? I am modelling some small items, initially a Ruston 48DS followed by some wagons. I am not modelling a specific line. Scale drawings show quite a lot of variation. The only actual dimensions I have come across are Clayton's drawings of the Southwold locos and these vary between 2'7"3/8 and 2'8"1/2 for two locos. I understand the Irish lines had quite a lot of variation between them. The Isle of Man system must have a standard height and Boyd's 4mmscale drawings indicate 2ft centres. I am just looking for a standard I can use and if one doesn't exist I will probably go for 14mm above rail height Any advice appreciated. David

On page 141 there is review of a compact drive assembly built by Bernard Snoodyk (The Model Works). I have these operating in 3 very different NG locos. The locos work very well on a 1S LiPo battery and controlled by Deltang RC. A great little drive; of which all I have had to pay for. Rod Hutchinson Mooroolbark Australia On Thu, 2 Aug. 2018, 16:59 Rod Hutchinson, <rodhutchy@...> wrote: My copy arrived in the Eastern suburbs of Melbourne today. Rod Hutchinson Mooroolbark Australia On Wed, 1 Aug. 2018, 19:41 Bruce Wood, <bruce.wood@...> wrote: My copy arrived in Sydney, Australia today. Bruce

Thanks to everyone who chipped on with ideas for pony truck springing - I'll enjoy experimenting with them! As several people mentioned that they still have Gibson kits in progress, the following might be helpful - not so much what I did, but what I would do now following my experience with "Lew": - the new Romford/Markits brass outside crank assembly looks a lot more robust and foolproof than the Gibson plastic ones, and using the Romford 14mm axles means the wheels are automatically set to gauge and with far less risk of wobble than the push-fit Gibson ones. The downside is that, unless you're using separate hornblocks, the frames have to be built around the wheelsets, but that has not been a great problem with other kits I have built. - the cowcatchers are very difficult to do, especially mounting them end-on to an already detailed chassis. It would probably be much easier to leave off the buffer beam overlays when building the underframe, and then build the cowcatchers on to them "on the bench". The complete buffer beam/cowcatcher/vacuum hose sub-assembly could then be superglued onto the underframe at a later stage. - with 14mm gauge, clearances between the underside of the boiler and the lead driving wheel flanges are non-existent. You may need to carve away a bit of the boiler with a mini-drill to avoid the risk of a short-circuit.Luckily the affected area is virtually invisible in normal viewing. - the kit's Joy valve gear is a so-and-so to assemble, and can easily bind on the connecting rod and then either seize up or unwind. Correct alignment of the connecting rods parallel to the frames is essential. I failed on this, plus the crankpin holes in the return cranks were over etched, so eventually I gave up. Now my "Lew" has inside Stephenson valve gear actuating the outside valve chests by intermediate valves rods and rocker shafts, Swindon-style (to assuage my guilty conscience I did add dummy rockers behind the valve rods!). I like to think this isn't too far fetched. The Joy gear on the original locos gave good valve events but was maintenance hungry, so the SR could have sought a better arrangement. Stephenson gear had worked well on the Baldwin "Lyn", and the Pilton shed staff were familiar with it. Moreover Harry Holcroft, Maunsell's chief technical guru, was ex Swindon, so would have known the Churchward arrangement well. Anyway, that's my story and I'm sticking to it! Despite all the above the kit can be built up into a very satisfying loco, so have fun! Allan

I'm just finishing off an Alan Gibson kit for an L&B 2-6-2t. (I purchased it from Alan's stand at NEC Warley in 2001, which may be some kind of record for slow work!). Anyway, given the short coupled wheelbase and long overhangs on the Lynton locos, it would be nice to incorporate some form of side control on the front and rear trucks, so that they do their real-life job of helping steer the loco into curves. However, my initial efforts have merely succeeded in lifting the lead truck's inside wheel off the rail on curves. Has anyone developed a satisfactory form of pony truck side control for the larger n.g. locos, or is this best consigned to the "too difficult" file? Allan

Hi all. Not sure if this question has been asked but does anyone know what the minimum radius the EDM Alice Dinorwic can go round? I'm planning a small 0-14/Scale 7 micro layout based on "The end of the line" layout but set about 1900-23 and in a iron mine. Marc

Out of a junk box at Bakewell show a couple of weeks ago I bought a bridge made from glass fibre. It might be 4mm, but equally could be for 7mm narrow gauge as the style, stone with a brick arch is very much NWNGR/WHR. Anyone know the source? Frank

Over on RMweb, Roger Chivers has asked if anyone has 14mm gauges for sale. It's great that Roger is interested in 14mm - can anyone help him? See here (no need to be registered to read the topic) http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/126552-modelling-in-014-now-and-the-future/?p=3213734 Mike

If rolling stock is directional, e.g. has choppers at one end only and therefore tends to run the same way in a given rake, is there any advantage in making the fixed end in compensated wheel sets the same end? I'm thinking .... fixed, rocking, coupler; fixed, rocking, coupler; fixed, rocking etc. I probably needn't to compensate at all on the whitemetal wagons I'm thinking of, but now is the time to think this through before I get some more and start building them in earnest. David H Chelfham

Reminder: Exeter O Gauge Groups Open Day When: Sunday, 24 June 2018 10:00am to 4:00pm (GMT+01:00) Europe/London Where: Victory Hall, Whimple, Exeter EX5 2TS Description: The Exeter Gauge O Groups is holding an Open day on Sunday 24th June, as part of their 25th Anniversary activities. David Malton will be showing his 14mm Abbey Light Railway in its full extent, and our large test-track features a 14mm gauge circuit. View Event.