开云体育

Hello, I am attempting to convert a Dell 1720 printer using the 3rd revision of the Lexmark instructables method . This method has gone pretty much perfectly up until now, but I'm left with one of the difficult bits: how do I handle alignment and feeding of the tray into the printer because I do not have a door to mount a guide on. I keep seeing references Michael "Mike" Sims (K4GMH) doing this conversion successfully, but I can't find any pictures or other clues. Does anyone have information on the "front tray" mechanical aspects of this conversion? Any pictures even? If someone could even provide me with contact information that'd be appreciated.

Since you guys use printers a lot, wanted to ask you your opinion on the products out there like the printer cleaner sheets sold at Staples where I guess you insert a sheet of paper in and its I guess treated with something that cleans the feed rollers, etc. Sometimes on the lower end ink jet products, the access to the pickup roller is really tough to get to and thought this may be something to try. When I worked on VCR's, they had head cleaning tapes where you soaked the material with alcohol and it played the material along the heads to clean them. Seems like these papers are the same kind of idea, but I guess if you soaked them with alcohol they could come apart in the mechanisms and cause more problems than they are worth. I service printers here as part of my duties at the store, and today there was a Cannon Pixma that needed the pickup rollers cleaned, and they were not accessable unless most of the product was torn down. Turns out there was a mechanical problem and the pickup roller wasnt to bad off, but if I were to do my standard service I would clean it, I just dont like loose ends like that when I repair something, and its clear these "communist" designs are intentionally made to really annoy anyone trying to open them up with the way the plastic pieces interlock in a complicated way with different ways to disassemble everything. Lots of videos of these on youtube , where the way they are repaired is dropping them out a 4 story window...heh. Steve Hearns Technotronic Dimensions, VT [USA] WWW.TECHNOTRONIC-DIMENSIONS.COM 1.518.663.3421 (MAIN) 1-877-817-9885 (Voice / Fax Toll Free - US Only) E-Mail: Steve@... -- Webmaster, Parts-Link: (http://www.parts-link.com) Group Moderator: TV-Repair (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/tv-repair) Monitor-Repair (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/monitor-repair)

I am working on a PCB for etching using toner transfer. My first attempts show the default trace dimensions (clearance 0.2 mm, track width 0.25 mm) do not transfer well - there are visible breaks in the traces, some of which barely transfer at all. What dimensions (without excessive width) are likely to be more successful?

Thought I'd share a couple images of my first attempt at making a solder paste stencil. Images in this album... https://imgur.com/a/ky2DuyN I have seen people do this with cutting and straightening old aluminium cans, but since I don't drink much from cans I went and bought some disposable aluminium trays from the local cheap shop, about $1 US each. I cut out a flat section of the tray large enough and used 800 grit wet sand paper and a spritzer bottle of water to quickly sand one side in case there was some coating, then I cleaned it with methylated sprits and applied the dry film. For film application I did it exactly as I do for PCB material, use the spritzer water bottle and squeegee the film on then cool iron, I documented this some time ago in my tips n tricks (http://sparks.gogo.co.nz/dry-film-tips.pdf), since then Big Clive has made some videos showing basically the same process if you youtube it, I think he uses a fancy piezo mister, I just use a dollar store water spritzer bottle. The artwork was exported as a gerber from DipTrace and run through my script https://github.com/sleemanj/gerb2etch to generate a positive PDF (pads opaque) and exposure was exactly as for PCB (22 seconds in my case), developing etc also as for PCB. The back side of the sheet was covered in clear packing tape and the artwork touched up with etch resist pen. Etching was done with HCl and H2O2, no specific ratio I just covered the sheet in HCl and added "a dash" of H2O2 from my rather old 35% bottle (which is probably nowhere even remotely 35% any more). Fuming was copious so as well I was outside. Etching was fairly rapid, but not as quick or vigorous as I had expected, it was difficult to judge how far through it was, I think next time I would etch it upside down with the resist side at the bottom I think that would make it easier to judge done-ness. Ad-hoc agitation was provided by manual sloshing of the container. No time was recorded but I estimate it took about 7-10 minutes. On removing the etch which looked good from the top it was evident that a fair undercut had occurred, and that some areas were better than others, because it's undercut and the resist is quite dark, this isn't so apparent from the top side during etching. Removing the packing tape was quite easy, I had been concerned it might stick too strongly but it doesn't seem to be the case, next time I would be more careful not to have tape wrap over the edge, but still leave a little bit to make grabbing it to peel off easier. An acetone bath was used to strip the resist. The result clearly has room for improvement, I'm not sure that reducing the arpertures further than the DipTrace default is necessary bu more careful exposure and and being quicker to remove it from the etch are needed. I have not attempted to use the stencil (mainly because I don't have any solderpaste on hand currently) but I think at least 50% of the QFN patterns are usable and possibly most of them would work without too much rework after reflow, I think all the passives (mostly 0603) would be fine on all the patterns.

A member asked me for information on my LJ-III laminator hack and I'm trying to create a folder and upload in the files section. However, they're disabled, what's up? Yngve.

I have uploaded the files to Homemade_PCB_equipment in the files section. I hope someone might find it useful. Yngve.

Can someone recommend a pc board eyelet and tools for pc board repair. I have tried to contact intl-eyelets at http://www.intl-eyelets.com/ multiple times but gotten no response. I thought their F-3093-C eyelet was what I was looking for. I need to repair a pc board where a 4 pin .1" spacing header strip pulled the plating out of the hole. So I need an eyelet that will accept a .025" square pin. From researching this in the past it seemed the swaging tool was outrageously expensive ($200). Since this is for a one time thing I can't justify that kind of money but would like to find some eyelets. What other outfits are out there that sell eyelets? Are there any cheap anvil tools for inserting the eyelets and seating them? Thank you. Jim Pruitt

Interesting to see how this is done these days: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ljOoGyCso8s&ab_channel=StrangeParts And you'll never believe the prices, so I won't even write them down here. ST //mod edited subject line because this =is= on topic//

We come here to share how we home brew PCBs. If we want to professionally source PCBs we can choose who to support with our dollars. I don't know about you guys but I only home brew PCBs for hobby electronics and I try to keep it a simple as possible to share with newbies and encourage learning something along the way. 73 Rob KB3BYT http://www.learnmorsecode.com/regen/00regen.html http://www.learnmorsecode.com/laminator/hotcakes.html

07 June 2018 I restore old test gear and sometimes have to make new boards as some old PCB's suffer from poor track adhesion when repairs are attempted. I have fixed up a huge linear bench DC power supply but really I would like to make new boards. I use a thermal wax printer to put the layout taken from a Photoshop modded photograph of an original single sided board onto clear sheet and then use photo resist to make a board. but I'd like to get an engraver and try that method. Hence I need a means of going from a black and white pdf image to a file suitable to run on the engraver. Any ideas if this is possible and if so how to achieve this please? There's a link to the images I would want to convert here, the images are actual size: http://www.chriswilson.tv/traces-bw.pdf Thanks for any ideas! A means to convert to a format a pcb fab house could work with is another possibility, I am happy to drill the holes manually on my milling machine. -- Best regards, Chris mailto:chris@...

Ok 3d printers are all the rage. I myself built one like 7+ years ago But I have a fab idea based on a laser cutter idea I have seen. They used black matt paint and laser ed away the paint and etched the board. #1 I dun think burning away paint is all that healthy #2 I think it could be done simpler #3 could use 3 small steppers one for the z tool head. X&Y two more either drilling tool head for the holes after #4 And a spring loaded needle to scratch away the paint the fine point of the needle should allow for spaces between tracks that are about 5 to 8 mil. #5 So smd's should be possible and a syringe tool head should allow for solder paste dispensing as well tool paths should be availible as well. What you folks think terramir

Working... Nuno T. Virus-free. www.avast.com

Monthly Reminder for Homebrew_PCBs list, please read: Messages and threads: Please do NOT start a new thread by replying to another message. Even if you change the subject line completely and trim all the original messages off, there is information in the hidden header that Yahoogroups detects and then lists it as if it were part of that thread. To start a new thread, start a new message to the list address. homebrew_pcbs@... On Topic vs off topic: The list is quite busy and the subject of making printed circuits covers quite a broad area, from PCB software to modifying printers to CNC milling. So I ask that any questions or comments whose purpose is not strictly on topic to take place off the list or on another more suitable list. General electronics questions should go to the Electronics_101 list: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Electronics_101 Direct inkjet printing onto PCBs is on topic here, however I have set up a list for more detailed discussion of the modification of inkjet printers and building of inkjet plotters, the Inkjet_PCB_Construction list: http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Inkjet_PCB_Construction/ Subject lines: Remember to change the subject line if you are straying from the original thread. Please change the subject line if you are on digest, as "Digest 1044" means nothing to anyone. If you want an answer to a question, use a descriptive subject line. "Help Me" is bad subject line. "Bits for milling PCBs" is a good subject line. Subject lines affect whether or not people even read your message, and affect people searching the archives for help at a later date. Trim messages- especially if you are receiving messages in digest form. By the same token, quote enough so we know what you are responding to. "Yeah, I agree" means nothing if no one knows who you are answering or what you are agreeing with. And it is just irritating if it is added to an untrimmed huge long quoted message(s). Uploading files and photos: Please use the Description field. Think of a future member finding this, and put enough description so they'll know why it is on the Homebrew_PCBs list out of context of any messages you may have posted about it. Examples: "Toner transfer using Office Depot Glossy Photo paper run 6 times through GBC laminator, worked great" is good, "My latest project" is bad. I may at any time delete files and photos with insufficient description. Remember to check the Links and Files if you have questions, you may find the answer there already. Don't be shy about asking, but keep in mind people are more likely to be helpful if they feel you've done some homework before asking. "What is toner transfer?" shows you didn't even try, but "I have an HP 2100 laser printer, will it work for toner transfer?" shows you have done some reading first. Do not send "unsubscribe" messages to the list. Either send an email to "Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@..." or log onto your groups at http://groups.yahoo.com/mygroups to edit your groups. If you are unable to unsubscribe following these instructions, email the listowner at Homebrew_PCBs-owner@.... Please do -not- post virus warnings. This has been hashed to death on this list and others. If we want to hear about soccer, we'll sign up on a soccer list, if we want to hear about virii we'll sign up on a virus list. Sports, religion, and politics are OFF TOPIC for the list, feelings run high and it is too easy for a passing comment to flare up into a flame war. Suggestions, recommendations and such, to and from professionals and companies are welcome. If you are posting for your own business, please limit ads to once a month and feel free to post your site in the Links area. Company representatives are encouraged to respond to legit requests for information as long as you identify your connection. IE, don't pretend to be an unconnected customer, there are enough savvy people here that you'll be found out quickly. Just use common sense about replying or people might think you are flogging your business. Spam- Spammers will be treated with all the respect they deserve. Off Topic sale ads, links, uploads, etc. will be treated as spam and may result in your removal from the list and banning from every other list I am listowner or moderator of. An Archives list has been set up so we have more storage for Files and Photos. There is no posting allowed, it is there just so we have more upload space as the Files area of the main list is already 99% full: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/ Thank you, Steve Greenfield listowner Homebrew_PCBs and Electronics_101

The changeover for Electronics_101 went smoothly, it took about a week from creating the group, then it was over in a short time. http://groups.io/g/electronics101 I've just created homebrewpcbs on 开云体育, names are not allowed dashes or underscores. Don't do anything - when 开云体育 moves us over, you'll be subscribed with your current settings. If your email address is bouncing and you are accessing the group online, 开云体育 will not move you over. You'll have to either fix it now, or wait and join later. Steve Greenfield AE7HD listowner

I have quite a few groups on Yahoogroups. All are experiencing intermittent problems. I'm considering moving to 开云体育. The existing Yahoogroups would not be deleted. Opinions? I'm the listowner. Steve Greenfield AE7HD http://www.linkedin.com/in/stevenjgreenfield

Monthly Reminder for Homebrew_PCBs list, please read: Messages and threads: Please do NOT start a new thread by replying to another message. Even if you change the subject line completely and trim all the original messages off, there is information in the hidden header that Yahoogroups detects and then lists it as if it were part of that thread. To start a new thread, start a new message to the list address. homebrew_pcbs@... On Topic vs off topic: The list is quite busy and the subject of making printed circuits covers quite a broad area, from PCB software to modifying printers to CNC milling. So I ask that any questions or comments whose purpose is not strictly on topic to take place off the list or on another more suitable list. General electronics questions should go to the Electronics_101 list: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Electronics_101 Direct inkjet printing onto PCBs is on topic here, however I have set up a list for more detailed discussion of the modification of inkjet printers and building of inkjet plotters, the Inkjet_PCB_Construction list: http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Inkjet_PCB_Construction/ Subject lines: Remember to change the subject line if you are straying from the original thread. Please change the subject line if you are on digest, as "Digest 1044" means nothing to anyone. If you want an answer to a question, use a descriptive subject line. "Help Me" is bad subject line. "Bits for milling PCBs" is a good subject line. Subject lines affect whether or not people even read your message, and affect people searching the archives for help at a later date. Trim messages- especially if you are receiving messages in digest form. By the same token, quote enough so we know what you are responding to. "Yeah, I agree" means nothing if no one knows who you are answering or what you are agreeing with. And it is just irritating if it is added to an untrimmed huge long quoted message(s). Uploading files and photos: Please use the Description field. Think of a future member finding this, and put enough description so they'll know why it is on the Homebrew_PCBs list out of context of any messages you may have posted about it. Examples: "Toner transfer using Office Depot Glossy Photo paper run 6 times through GBC laminator, worked great" is good, "My latest project" is bad. I may at any time delete files and photos with insufficient description. Remember to check the Links and Files if you have questions, you may find the answer there already. Don't be shy about asking, but keep in mind people are more likely to be helpful if they feel you've done some homework before asking. "What is toner transfer?" shows you didn't even try, but "I have an HP 2100 laser printer, will it work for toner transfer?" shows you have done some reading first. Do not send "unsubscribe" messages to the list. Either send an email to "Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@..." or log onto your groups at http://groups.yahoo.com/mygroups to edit your groups. If you are unable to unsubscribe following these instructions, email the listowner at Homebrew_PCBs-owner@.... Please do -not- post virus warnings. This has been hashed to death on this list and others. If we want to hear about soccer, we'll sign up on a soccer list, if we want to hear about virii we'll sign up on a virus list. Sports, religion, and politics are OFF TOPIC for the list, feelings run high and it is too easy for a passing comment to flare up into a flame war. Suggestions, recommendations and such, to and from professionals and companies are welcome. If you are posting for your own business, please limit ads to once a month and feel free to post your site in the Links area. Company representatives are encouraged to respond to legit requests for information as long as you identify your connection. IE, don't pretend to be an unconnected customer, there are enough savvy people here that you'll be found out quickly. Just use common sense about replying or people might think you are flogging your business. Spam- Spammers will be treated with all the respect they deserve. Off Topic sale ads, links, uploads, etc. will be treated as spam and may result in your removal from the list and banning from every other list I am listowner or moderator of. An Archives list has been set up so we have more storage for Files and Photos. There is no posting allowed, it is there just so we have more upload space as the Files area of the main list is already 99% full: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/ Thank you, Steve Greenfield listowner Homebrew_PCBs and Electronics_101

Copper clad board using muriatic acid would like to find better than 3% hydrogen peroxide if possible. In the usa LA california to be exact. Also what are some of the better methods of making a pcb cheaply BTW if needed I have 99 uv led on a circuit board built that a while ago just would need a cheap uv kinda etch resist suggestions welcome there. terramir