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dell 1720 conversion
Hello,
I am attempting to convert a Dell 1720 printer using the 3rd revision of the Lexmark? This method has gone pretty much perfectly up until now, but I'm left with one of the difficult bits: how do I handle alignment and feeding of the tray into the printer because I do not have a door to mount a guide on. I keep seeing references Michael "Mike" Sims (K4GMH) doing this conversion successfully, but I can't find any pictures or other clues. Does anyone have information on the "front tray" mechanical aspects of this conversion? Any pictures even? If someone could even provide me with contact information that'd be appreciated. |
I am the author of those Instructables. Send me a picture of what the front end of the printer looks like at this stage and I will help you as best I can. Mark At 08:35 AM 8/30/2018, you wrote: Hello, |
Mark: I've made an of some images from my printer. Sorry for the blurriness on some of them, one of my light systems just died so the exposure was long.As far as I can tell, my main option is going to be to make a ramp which just goes down to the surface of the table the printer is on. I can't imagine the hole through the normal front cover will allow it to work. Thanks! On Thu, Aug 30, 2018 at 11:03 AM Mark Lerman <mlerman@...> wrote:
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Imgur has "overcapacity" error message. Will try again later. Mark At 10:27 PM 8/30/2018, you wrote: Mark: |
I looked at the images, but it's hard to see detail. One choice would be to make an aluminum "frame" at the correct angle and height and place/clamp it directly in front of the printer. Maybe put a piece of wood or aluminum sheet under both the printer and the frame and bolt both to that "base". Frame needs to be low friction, but not too critical since it works okay sliding on door. Hope this helps a bit. If you aren't concerned about doing double sided boards it would be a lot easier. Mark At 10:27 PM 8/30/2018, you wrote: Mark: |
Mark:
I am going to work on this project again this weekend, and I founding myself wondering something: Is there a fundamental reason to not use the entire 24" sheet of 89015K115 as the carrier, as opposed to making a 16 inch rounded carrier? I am sure you've thought about this, but it seems like you could attempt to do the line-up of the carrier with the start of the print on the backside of the printer if you kept the carrier long enough. I know rigidity of the carrier pcb combination is important, but couldn't you get the rigidity from reinforcement on the backside too? Thanks, -tg |
TG,
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A 24" sheet is ok, but, if I understand you correctly, you want to start the print with the leading edge of the sheet already through the printing interface where drum meets transfer roller. I don't think this will work because part of the printing protocol requires the drum to be cleaned and charged. That said, I don't think I have ever tried it. Might be fun to try! An acquaintance of mine, experimenting completely independently of me, modified a printer so that the pcb slid under the drum on a powered flatbed platform that was synchronized to the printer so that it moved at the correct speed and correct timing. He removed the transfer roller entirely. Seemed to work well, though he used an HP printer, which do? not work very well for direct printing on copper. He devised a software workaround to make it work. Mark At 11:53 PM 9/7/2018, you wrote: Mark: |
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