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Subject kinda says is all but, I just discovered the smart stand that came with my Comatic DS700 is too wide to mount to the flip away bracket. The hole pattern is fine but the flange at the base is roughly 6.7” wide whereas the usable width of the bracket (without running into the strut support) is around 5”. Has anyone successfully mounted a recent Comatic power feeder to a Felder flip-away bracket. If so can you provide details on the stand from Comatic? Regards, Ron

I got tired of fighting the Felder F48 power feeder. Very heavy and awkward to switch from horizontal to vertical feeding. So I purchased a Comatic DC70 with the smart stand. In error, I assumed the bases of the stands would all be similar. To my chagrin, I found the base of the smart stand will not bolt up to the plate on the tilting mount of my KF700SP. I understand the weight considerations. The smart stand is heavier than the old stand, while the new feeder is considerably lighter than the F48. And I can remember to lock the memory feature on the smart stand before swinging it out of the way. So, to my question(s). Has anyone else attempted to mount a smart stand to the tilting base? If so, what modifications did you make? As you can see, part of the tilting mount interferes with the stand base, preventing it from being centered on the mount. Thanks for any suggestions. Alex B.

fyi... ---------- Forwarded message --------- From: James Zhu <james.zhu2@...> Date: Wed, May 30, 2018 at 8:09 PM Subject: Re: [felder-woodworking] Install gas spring assistance for the tilt-away bracket for KF700 To: phil_moger@... [felder-woodworking] <felder-woodworking@...> Marty, Carl Knapp from Felder USA sent me the brilliant instruction and pictures below on how to install the gas strut, and I was done in 5 minutes!!! Felder tech from Mississauga asked me to try the ratchet strap, I simply cannot get it work. I do not have the F48 on the bracket. I know it would be very difficult and dangerous to have it on the bracket while installing the gas strut. The gas strut made in Germany is rated at 1600N, no wonder I cannot push it down using my manpower :) From Carl Knapp: loosening the bolts circled and the lower nuts, That let the bracket lift up enough to attach the shock. Then I tighten it back down. On Wed, May 30, 2018 at 7:12 PM, Marty Fretheim lnmnmarty@... [felder-woodworking] <felder-woodworking@...> wrote: James, I had the same problem when I installed mine. I can't remember exactly what I did. I seem to recall that I left the two bottom nuts that attach the bracket down low on the side of the machine off. Then you can tilt the bracket up enough to get the pin in. Then you have some leverage to push the bracket down and install those two nuts. It looks like you have the stock feeder already installed on the bracket. I would remove it until you get the strut pinned and the bracket installed correctly. I wish I could remember exactly how I did it but you don't have a defective part as I had the same issue. Just ignore the funky Felder instructions and be creative. It is doable. Brian's advice is sound also. Good luck, Marty On May 30, 2018, at 12:00 PM, James Zhu james.zhu2@... [felder-woodworking] <felder-woodworking@...> wrote: Back to March, I got the Felder gas spring assistance, but life gets in the way. Today, I finally have time to install it. I have difficulty to attach the metal bracket to the head of the gas strut. See attached pictures. I tilt the base, the gas strut is just a few millimeters longer, and I am not able to push down the gas strut using my manpower to align the holes for the bolt connecting them together. Any advice? Thanks, James <IMG_4882.JPG> <IMG_4883.JPG> __._,_.___ Posted by: Marty Fretheim <lnmnmarty@...> Reply via web post ? Reply to sender ? Reply to group ? Start a New Topic ? Messages in this topic (2) Check out the automatic photo album with 2 photo(s) from this topic. Have you tried the highest rated email app? With 4.5 stars in iTunes, the Yahoo Mail app is the highest rated email app on the market. What are you waiting for? Now you can access all your inboxes (Gmail, Outlook, AOL and more) in one place. Never delete an email again with 1000GB of free cloud storage. To Post a message, send it to: felder-woodworking@... Visit the group web site: http://www.groups.yahoo.com/group/felder-woodworking Visit the FOG photo library at http://photobucket.com/albums/a88/Fogpics/ Visit Your Group New Members 3 ? Privacy ? Unsubscribe ? Terms of Use . __,_._,___

Hello, you excellent people, First time to the group, looking to take the plunge on (relatively) big iron ownership, hoping to run my selection process by you and hopefully reined in if it gets too crazy. I am a hobbyist woodworker, averaging few hours a week in my two-car-garage-turned-shop. While I used Unisaws and Sawstops in the past, I never bought a table saw for myself, making do with a bandsaw, track saw, lately a miter saw and a peculiar contraption that goes by the name Shopsmith. After ten years in this mode, I just about had it. Sliding table has been on my mind for some time, though I never used one. Long story short, over several months I persuaded myself that I need one in my life. Most of the work I do is with solid wood, though a recent remodel forced me to deal with cabinetry. Generally, while having a capability to work with sheet goods is appreciated, this is not where I see spending the majority of my time. Given that I do not have a big space, I made a couple optimization decisions. First, I'd like a saw-shaper combo. While I never used a shaper before, I can see the usefulness of the tool. It also synergizes well with a sliding table, making the combp significantly cheaper than having it a standalone tool. I expect to use it as a router half of the time, and to mill end grain joints — most of the other half. Second, I am seriously considering a short stroke. Cross-cutting a baltic birch sheet is the largest job I see myself doing, so a 1550mm table should be enough. For long boards, there's the rip fence and from what I understand, a shorter table actually makes it easier to access. This goes against my natural "more is better" instinct so I would appreciate pointing out if I am about to make an expensive mistake. With that in mind, I have narrowed my Felder options to KF500 and KF700. The more expensive option is in the consideration mainly because of the DROs available for tilt and rip fence. Is it really worth the 40% higher cost? (For that matter, might I be equally happy with a Hammer option?) I am considering a belt-driven scoring blade and a dado option no matter the model I end up with. Sorry for the long form. Please roast my selection and thought process. Any feedback is highly appreciated. Cheers, Stan Sent with Proton Mail secure email.

Hey guys. I'm in need of a 12" digital caliper. I have a Mitutoyo 6" that is excellent, but their 12" calipers are upwards of $470 or so. There are many cheaper variants (Fowler, Inzise, Accusize, etc.). Can anyone recommend a decent one? Some of these cheaper calipers have flimsier bodies and thinner calipers. The flexible bodies can cause a variance in measurement. I would love a stainless steel variant, but let me know what you think. -Aaron Inami

Hello FOG, As some of you are aware, there is a known issue with the Felder short (1100mm) Xcut fence—it does not consistently register at 90 degrees and for many users requires recalibration each time the fence angle is changed or the fence is re-mounted on the slider after removal. David Best has invested meaningful time and effort in researching and developing a solution for this problem. For more details, you can review his findings here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/albums/72157710682931263/with/48696122378/ David has decided not to produce additional retrofit kits himself. However, he has generously shared detailed diagrams outlining his solution. I have located a local metal shop willing to manufacture a batch of these retrofit kits to the required tolerances. Since I don’t have metal milling equipment myself, I will only be facilitating a single production run—provided we reach the minimum order quantity. Participation & Timeline If you’re interested in purchasing a kit, please let me know. I’ll be collecting registrations over the next few weeks, and if we reach at least 25 units, we will proceed with the production run. My target is to start production in the May-June time frame. Available Retrofit Kits & Pricing Retrofit for a Single Machine ($200–$250 + shipping) Requires you to send in your aluminum block for drilling and modification. Includes a retrofitted T-bushing, installation rod, and necessary screws. Retrofit for Two Machines ($450–$500 + shipping) Includes two T-nuts and two new flip stop that have built in adjustment, in addition to modifications to your aluminum block. I'll have the final price once I'll know the number of participants. If you would like to join, please specify which kit you are going to buy Supporting David Best David declined payment for his work in designing this solution, but I believe we should compensate him for his time and dedication. I encourage anyone purchasing the retrofit kit to consider making a donation. I will personally donate $100 for my kit, plus any profit from this group buy. If you’d like to contribute, I will be collecting donations and forwarding them to David. All of the donations to David get passed along to support people in war-torn communities

I really like my Fat 300 for lifting stuff. But the top is not flat and when I try to build something on it I don't have good results. I wonder if I just got a bad top, or if others have replaced theirs with another alternative. The MFT tops available on Amazon are not the correct size. I'd order another top from Felder if I thought that I might get a flat one. I thought about taking a hand plane to it, but don't really like that idea. Thanks for your help and suggestions. Bill Belanger

Have a set of "Big squeeze" air clamps for sale. I haven't had the time to properly install these on my current saw and have used them a few times and they work awesome. Just not using them enough to justify keeping them. Willing to ship on the buyers dime // Asking $600

All: I need HELP. I moved my 7.35kw Dual 51 from a shop with 240V to a shop condo with 208V (two legs from a 3 phase utility supply to a single phase panel). The Dual runs on a Phase Perfect Phase converter. The Dual worked fine in the old shop but will not run in the new...it starts up but when it hits full speed it shuts down. I called Felder and they said to change the transformer tap to +10 to make up for the 208 to 230. This did nothing...same issue. Now the recommendation is to replace the brake board as this handles the task from start to run modes. I have no confidence in that analysis as it worked just fine with 240V supply. In any case, since I am in the middle of a multi piece furniture production I absolutely must have the Dual operational. I ordered the brake board but want trouble shooting advice from some of the electrical experts that know Felder and frequent the FOG. Help!! Best, Terry

I have on repair an electronic part of this model . useful would be a wiring diagram ... thank you

My dream has come true - embrace the picnic hamper option: Felder Lifestyle Options - the latest edition to Format 4 youtu.be “You can use it functionally, but it’s more to complete the lifestyle experience”. David Best DBestWorkshop@... https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/ https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best

I am about to re-check the alignment of the slider on my saw. I thought I had it pretty well tuned up, following the David Best videos, but am seeing some unexpected behavior. Small offcuts tend to fling back toward the front of the saw. If I trim 1/8” off the end of a piece, for instance, the off cut will often fly clear off the saw. Does this behavior give me some clues as to the slider alignment? Is it telling me I have too little toe-out, or maybe too much? I’m not burning the off-cut. Thanks for any advice! -- John Hinman Boise ID Kappa 450X and A941

Includes: BN-35 Barth Multipress RP3001 3000mm c/w 3 Manual / Hydraulic Clamps and 90? Stop BM-35-10 Barth Hold Down Clamp BM-35-20 Barth Lateral Press with 2 manual R&P BM-35-42 Barth Casework support Top 3x BM-35-41 Barth Casework support Bottom 3x BM-35-55 Barth Mobility Kit BM-35-57 Mitering Frame Bond Device In excellent, almost unused condition. Asking $14500 picked up in Seattle area. I will likely regret it as it will be super expensive if I ever want to re-acquire it! As much as I want to keep it, I'm finding that I'm not doing as much of large cabinet and case work that I thought I would. May be someone can put it to much better use.

Does anyone have any experience with this product? I know Alex Boulds had mentioned the product was in development a year or so ago, but I haven't been able to find any reviews online. I'm considering adding the Grit system to my shop and the dust bin alternatives are either poorly reviewed (Clearvue or Oneida) or expensive (roto type indicators). Thanks in advance to anyone who can share their experience. Fred