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I really like my Fat 300 for lifting stuff. But the top is not flat and when I try to build something on it I don't have good results. I wonder if I just got a bad top, or if others have replaced theirs with another alternative. The MFT tops available on Amazon are not the correct size. I'd order another top from Felder if I thought that I might get a flat one. I thought about taking a hand plane to it, but don't really like that idea.
Thanks for your help and suggestions.
Bill Belanger
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Can you shim it where it bolts to the frame?
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Saturday, April 12, 2025 at 01:18:25 PM MST, Bill Belanger via groups.io <bllblngr@...> wrote:
I really like my Fat 300 for lifting stuff. But the top is not flat and when I try to build something on it I don't have good results. I wonder if I just got a bad top, or if others have replaced theirs with another alternative. The MFT tops available on Amazon are not the correct size. I'd order another top from Felder if I thought that I might get a flat one. I thought about taking a hand plane to it, but don't really like that idea.
Thanks for your help and suggestions.
Bill Belanger
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Great idea Brian! But the top is too crooked for that. Not sure if the picture shows it. The metal frame is fine but it looks like the plies are uneven. 
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On Apr 12, 2025, at 13:29, Brian Lamb via groups.io <blamb11@...> wrote:
Can you shim it where it bolts to the frame?
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Saturday, April 12, 2025 at 01:18:25 PM MST, Bill Belanger via groups.io <bllblngr@...> wrote:
I really like my Fat 300 for lifting stuff. But the top is not flat and when I try to build something on it I don't have good results. I wonder if I just got a bad top, or if others have replaced theirs with another alternative. The MFT tops available on Amazon are not the correct size. I'd order another top from Felder if I thought that I might get a flat one. I thought about taking a hand plane to it, but don't really like that idea.
Thanks for your help and suggestions.
Bill Belanger
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Not sure how wide it is but you may be able to send it thru a WBS. Local shops here routinely run material thru WBS for a charge.
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On Apr 12, 2025, at 5:17?PM, Bill Belanger via groups.io <bllblngr@...> wrote: ? Great idea Brian! But the top is too crooked for that. Not sure if the picture shows it. The metal frame is fine but it looks like the plies are uneven. <IMG_1845.JPG> Bill On Apr 12, 2025, at 13:29, Brian Lamb via groups.io <blamb11@...> wrote:
Can you shim it where it bolts to the frame?
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Saturday, April 12, 2025 at 01:18:25 PM MST, Bill Belanger via groups.io <bllblngr@...> wrote:
I really like my Fat 300 for lifting stuff. But the top is not flat and when I try to build something on it I don't have good results. I wonder if I just got a bad top, or if others have replaced theirs with another alternative. The MFT tops available on Amazon are not the correct size. I'd order another top from Felder if I thought that I might get a flat one. I thought about taking a hand plane to it, but don't really like that idea.
Thanks for your help and suggestions.
Bill Belanger
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Could be a challenge to do on a widebelt and not have it just 'spring' back after you run it through.? The rollers have some significant pressure.
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I am buying some 1" Baltic Birch for a project and I am going to cover it with Formica.? I would think it would make a great fat 300 top.? It sells for $125 a 4x8 sheet locally here.
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PK
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I made my own FAT/MFT table by laminating two layers of 3/4" maple plywood and then a 3/4" solid maple piece for the border.? Drilled out all the hole using a cheap Bora Centipede MFT table as a pattern and a magnetic drill to ensure the holes were perfectly vertical.? A couple of 20mm Fisch forstner bits.? The table came out pretty damn flat when checking with a 6 foot Stabila level.??
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If I had to do it again, I might just get a 1-3/4" Boos Block piece:
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-Aaron Inami
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PK,
True, I guess not sure how thick or stiff it is. If I raise the table slowly, I can hit the high spots.
There are people here with CNC and router sleds as well.
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On Apr 12, 2025, at 7:03?PM, PK via groups.io <pk@...> wrote: ? Could be a challenge to do on a widebelt and not have it just 'spring' back after you run it through.? The rollers have some significant pressure.
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I am buying some 1" Baltic Birch for a project and I am going to cover it with Formica.? I would think it would make a great fat 300 top.? It sells for $125 a 4x8 sheet locally here.
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PK
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If you have, or have access to, a CNC machine, you could using a
bed surfacing bit to skim cut both sides.? Be careful to how you
clamp it though, or you'll defeat the objective.
On 4/12/2025 1:18 PM, Bill Belanger via
groups.io wrote:
I really like my Fat 300 for lifting stuff. But the top is
not flat and when I try to build something on it I don't have
good results. I wonder if I just got a bad top, or if others
have replaced theirs with another alternative. The MFT tops
available on Amazon are not the correct size. I'd order another
top from Felder if I thought that I might get a flat one. I
thought about taking a hand plane to it, but don't really like
that idea.
Thanks for your help and suggestions.
Bill Belanger
?
--
Michael Garrison Stuber
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Thanks Imran. I could get that done…Or I could make my own and not put holes where the frame is! ? Bill
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On Apr 12, 2025, at 16:17, Aaron Inami via groups.io <ainami@...> wrote:
? I made my own FAT/MFT table by laminating two layers of 3/4" maple plywood and then a 3/4" solid maple piece for the border.? Drilled out all the hole using a cheap Bora Centipede MFT table as a pattern and a magnetic drill to ensure the holes were perfectly vertical.? A couple of 20mm Fisch forstner bits.? The table came out pretty damn flat when checking with a 6 foot Stabila level.??
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If I had to do it again, I might just get a 1-3/4" Boos Block piece:
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-Aaron Inami
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?Hi BILL, so I would if I was you, be looking for DIE boards you can get them in numerous thickness but you want to find something that’s at least an inch thick and you can buy them with phenoliccovering. Often used for concrete form work. if you do a web search of dieboard all kinds of stuff comes up all over the place. I have one 4 x 8 layout table that’s tubular steel structure and I have 1 inch dieboard on it and I just cover it with tempered hard masonite quarter inch, I also have plastic laminate that’s at least an eighth of an inch thick. I’ve got big like 5 x 10 sheets a few of them of it. I don’t know what the heck it’s called but it’s a lot heavier than horizontal 16 inch laminate. Best mac,, Designing and building for 50 years
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On Apr 12, 2025, at 7:37?PM, Bill Belanger via groups.io <bllblngr@...> wrote:
? Thanks Imran. I could get that done…Or I could make my own and not put holes where the frame is! ? Bill On Apr 12, 2025, at 16:17, Aaron Inami via groups.io <ainami@...> wrote:
? I made my own FAT/MFT table by laminating two layers of 3/4" maple plywood and then a 3/4" solid maple piece for the border.? Drilled out all the hole using a cheap Bora Centipede MFT table as a pattern and a magnetic drill to ensure the holes were perfectly vertical.? A couple of 20mm Fisch forstner bits.? The table came out pretty damn flat when checking with a 6 foot Stabila level.??
?
If I had to do it again, I might just get a 1-3/4" Boos Block piece:
?
-Aaron Inami
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BILL. I also think it’s a good idea to at least have 2 inch of overlap on all edges so you can clamp on the edges very handy. For larger projects, I use two side horses with 4 x 4 stiff backs that are perfectly straight and I am very length up to 22 feet. That’s the easiest way to build stuff that’s large. Designing and building for 50 years
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On Apr 12, 2025, at 8:07?PM, mac campshure <mac512002@...> wrote:
? ?Hi BILL, so I would if I was you, be looking for DIE boards you can get them in numerous thickness but you want to find something that’s at least an inch thick and you can buy them with phenoliccovering. Often used for concrete form work. if you do a web search of dieboard all kinds of stuff comes up all over the place. I have one 4 x 8 layout table that’s tubular steel structure and I have 1 inch dieboard on it and I just cover it with tempered hard masonite quarter inch, I also have plastic laminate that’s at least an eighth of an inch thick. I’ve got big like 5 x 10 sheets a few of them of it. I don’t know what the heck it’s called but it’s a lot heavier than horizontal 16 inch laminate. Best mac,, Designing and building for 50 years On Apr 12, 2025, at 7:37?PM, Bill Belanger via groups.io <bllblngr@...> wrote:
? Thanks Imran. I could get that done…Or I could make my own and not put holes where the frame is! ? Bill On Apr 12, 2025, at 16:17, Aaron Inami via groups.io <ainami@...> wrote:
? I made my own FAT/MFT table by laminating two layers of 3/4" maple plywood and then a 3/4" solid maple piece for the border.? Drilled out all the hole using a cheap Bora Centipede MFT table as a pattern and a magnetic drill to ensure the holes were perfectly vertical.? A couple of 20mm Fisch forstner bits.? The table came out pretty damn flat when checking with a 6 foot Stabila level.??
?
If I had to do it again, I might just get a 1-3/4" Boos Block piece:
?
-Aaron Inami
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Build a flat Aluminium or steel sub frame then bolt or screw a wood base to that shimming the frame to the lift to get it flat. If you want it to stay flat don't use timber.
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You might enjoy my recent video about building a MFT top for Rangate lift cart:
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I start with a torsion box made from aluminum extrusion. Additional beam members give it the rigidity it needs and help prevent sagging over time. For the hole grid, I use the Parf Guide Mk2 system to drill the 20mm dog holes in an MDF top. (Would it be nicer to use a CNC? Absolutely.)
I treat the top as a consumable—it takes a lot of abuse. Once it’s worn out or doesn’t feel dialed in anymore, I just replace it with a fresh sheet.
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Bill Belanger
imran
PK