开云体育

I'm writing in response to a request from bacchus6015 (Joe) about the Alpine Curved Door & Window class. This was an inaugural class, in that it was the first for the year, and the first dedicated to the topic. The group was awesome, mostly returning Alpine alums, most of us knew each other and had a great time. The class was focused on producing a small-scale, Euro-style, arch-top door. Joe Calhoon generated a drawing of the proposed door, which we then transferred to a sheet of MDF to produce a full-scale drawing, which we then turned into a machining template: The top of the sash and frame were produced using segmented arches, so we spent a fair amount if time discussing how/why/where to locate the joints, setting up a finger joint cutter, gluing/assembly techniques, and so on. By Saturday morning, we had processed all of the stiles, rails, panels, etc... into a door and frame, complete with the Zenit lift-off hinges and weather stripping: While I've built some arch- and elliptical- top storm doors in the past, I really appreciated the opportunity to see some other techniques. We wrapped up the door Saturday morning, and spent the rest of the day discussing some other curve-related work, such as curved-in-plane ("bow-front") sashes, joinery techniques, etc.... A big "Thank You!!!" to Joe Calhoon to accommodating this one-shot class, and to the other students for making it such a fun trip. -- Tom Gensmer Heritage Home Renewals, LLC Minneapolis, MN

Hello everyone, Unlike my prior equipment related questions, today's question is project specific since I have realized that members of this group are amazing in assisting both technically as well as creatively! I really enjoy some of the projects (and related feedback) that I have followed since I became a member last year. Now, regarding my project. I have recently finished building a hut for our dog (photos below). It was pretty straight forward, building individual panels which then could easily be joined along the long and flat surface of the adjacent panel's strut. Needless to say, there were an awful lot of struts (over 140) with various angles to cut and grooves to mill to fit the panels as well as corner joinery, but it worked. I even decided to make the corner joints visually appealing in spite of the fact that they were never to be seen again in the final project. I am now embarking on a new project that is similar in idea, but I do not want the double strut visual. I plan on milling the struts in such a way that my critical joint is where the three struts meet (in other words, I am no longer building panels). So, my question is relating to this joint. How do I make it work. I have contemplated dominos, but they might not give the needed strength? Nor will they be easy to assemble since so many dominos (sets of three always meeting at a central point), do not easily come together. Attempting to contract an exploded sphere of sorts. It seems like a glue-up nightmare. I have also toyed with a variety of other joining methods, but didn't much like any of them (one versions attached below). As I have been researching, I came across the following amazing video on Youtube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YqkaswH6BfY). What a great way of making this joint work, I thought. Definitely strong and it can be assembled in stages. Unfortunately, I do not have that Hoffman machine, but I could create the same joint using a dovetail bit on my router and/or F700. However, I do not want to buy Hoffman dovetails, I would like to machine mine using a wood species that works for the project since this time the dovetails joints would actually show (besides, I can't even buy Hoffman dovetails where I live). Now, machining the rods of dovetail inserts (photos also below) requires 4 passes if I use a dovetail bit. And since I will need many, many running meters of dovetail inserts, I was wondering: A) is there a better way to machine the dovetail inserts? I have looked at both Felder and Whitehill cutter profiles, but could not come across a cutter that matches the angle of a dovetail bit. A profile with the correct angles would machine the dovetail rods in two passes, making it not only faster and safer, but also more accurate. B) should I not pursue this path at all and opt for a much simpler, better, prettier joint for this project? Secretly I am hoping for a different solution ..... Many thanks to everyone! Cornelius Schultze-Kraft Cyprus

Hello, I’ve just bought a used table extension, primarily so that I have outfeed support on an N4400 bandsaw, but I’d like to use it with my B3 Perform slider/moulder combo too. What I can’t work out though is how to attach the aluminium bracket to the bed of either machine. Can any of you shed light on this? The bed of the N4400 doesn’t appear to have any holes drilled/tapped into it, so I’m unclear as to how this fits. I’m assuming that the slot in the aluminium slides over two bolts and is tightened by locknuts, but I’m stumped! Any help greatly appreciated!

Hey Folks, I have a trestle table project that I'm planning on starting this Spring with a design based on Japanese Torii gates (specifically the Peace Torii). Attached is a 3D print in 1/10th scale. The table will be easily taken apart for moving (as a military brat, I always think about how to move things). Originally, I was going with Maple and dyeing it an orange base and a black top, similar to the stools in the other photo. But I've decided it's too much color and will go with a natural look. Still going with a Maple base. I'd like to do the top in Walnut, and get that as dark as possible to maximize the contrast. Any recommendations on finishing? I've considered going with Padauk as it darkens to a nice dark brown, but that would add almost 20% to the weight of the top. But open to arguments to go with that (or something else). Since you've made it this far, I'm also pondering the best way to attach the apron. Glue along the longitudinal side, and float the cross-grain or free-float the entire apron (which might be an issue when movers are handling the piece)? I think I've figured out most everything else. But I could be back. -- Bill Hope -- Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with a Hammer

My Grizzly Two-Stage is getting a bit long in the tooth, and needs a new filter amongst other things, doesnt do a great job at fine dust collection. I've been looking at options and came down to a few; Oneida Dust Gorilla Pro 5HP w/55gal Drum Laguna T|Fux 5 Felder RL160 I know its a bit apples and oranges in terms of comparison, but I'm collecting from a F700, K700S, AD941 and a Bandsaw, in terms of what sort of a user I am, I like the term Prosumer level. The main concern I see on here around the RL series is its ability to capture fine dust without clogging the filter. After selling my double drum, I do see a smaller widebelt in my horizon, but will likley be a used purchase when one comes up within a reasonable distance, but in terms of usage its not going to be production level, so I don't think it would be an issue. Only limitations are is 1? 30 amp availability for power, I do have 3? available, but just on a limited power budget (switched from a "15" HP Rotary Phase to a PTE010, and a smaller 37" widebelt would already be streching its capability), so would like to keep that for tooling. And it needs to be located on the _left_ side of my garage door, so right side bin removal with chute facing the rear of the garage. All hard piped already. I did get a price on an RL160, but the unit Felder has on the way is destined for Delaware, not Sacramento, so shipping to AZ is going to be prohibitive, and the next container isnt till June/July into CA. Essentially other than douubling my budget somehow and magicly getting an AL-KO, would it be worth the wait for the RL160, or something else I should be looking at? Cheers -Karl

Does anyone here has experience with the SCM J/P combo. I did some research on the SCM vs Felder J/P and it looks to me like the SCM has some advantage as of: 1)It has parallelogram jointer 2)The surface is flat vs the sprint joint the Felder line has And another question about the 41 vs 52 cm J/P. Do you find a lot of useful of having a bigger planer? (Today I have the A3-31 which is too small and I find work around when I work with wider material/boards, but I wonder if I'll regret not going with the bigger machine in the future)

Newish owner here. After a few weeks of not being able to start the saw, it did start recently, but now it's back to not starting. LED panel comes on. Tried disconnecting / reconnecting power of course. The yellow light referenced in the manual is not on. Suspecting the red cutoff button malfunction. I would like to access the button connection to diagnose or try bypassing it, but can't figure out how to get at it without taking the whole machine apart. Does anyone have experience removing this button / panel? Thanks!

Hi Everyone, I have this spare part that Felder sent me by mistake a number of years ago. I had ordered a spare dust chute that connects to the bottom of the dust shroud that surrounds the saw blade. Unfortunately I went to use it this week and found out that Felder had sent me the part for a different machine (I have a CF-731). I do not know what machine this fits, so if anyone can identify it and has a need just let me know and I'll send it to you. I'm not looking for any money for the part or shipping if you're in the US, just a good home for this part. Here are some dimensions: Hose connection is 100mm, the inside dimensions on the rectangular connection are 145mm and 50mm. The spacing for the bolts holes is 98mm center to center. Craig

Dear all, I have the chance to purchase a BF-3 combination machine from the 1980's. The price is 4000 euros. The machine is located 45 minutes from my small shop (30 square meters). The owner is a professional cabinet maker who is selling to upgrade to an additional combo machine, he has two including this one but also separate machines as he has employees. I don't have experience with Felder, nor with combination machines. I am a serious hobbyist and work mostly with hand tools. But, I would love to have a convenient and (I'm guessing) high quality series of machines to mill all of my furniture components before joinery. It would be a great way for me to build shop fixtures/furniture as well. The machine seems very well maintained and is fully functional. It has many of the accessories included but to be honest I don't know how many were available. I am also making some assumptions because of the heavy weight and nearly all parts being cast iron that the machine is very stable and good quality. My questions are whether this is a good investment and what are people's general impressions or personal experiences with Felder machines of this age? How is the machining and stability of the parts? I will go to check it out in person this upcoming week and check all surfaces with straight edges and check the functioning of each individual motor and machine. Any feedback is very much appreciated, thanks very much. Pictures are attached.

Well i've thought about another FAT table for a while, this just might be the push i needed! :) No idea of the cost as it's not yet listed on the Felder site. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_3dZ_SwuHw Regards, Bryce -- https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw

Hey Folks! I built this lifting workbench on the Rangate lift cart. The workbench has a 3030 aluminum extrusion based torsion box that provides MFT table-style side clamping on all four slides. The base of the torsion box doubles up like a giant tray for temporarily holding tools and loose items while you work. If you want to watch the build: I've posted my first YouTube video here. The accompanying blog post is here. Thanks, Rohit Kulshreshtha

I have an unused lifting bar and rolling carriage for sale. This was originally ordered with my A3 31 but I went with a different mobile base. Retail pricing for both is $240 ($133 and $107). I'll sell the set for $140. Local pickup preferred. I'm located near Seal Beach, CA. Let me know, thanks! Anthony

Hello, I'm form city of Salto, Uruguay. We have a Felder KF 700 S, Due to a problem with the equipment, we connected the scoring unit directly with a push button. Now that we have the spare parts, we cannot understand the electrical diagram that comes with the equipment. We need to identify where to connect the 3 phase cables to the terminal block. If anyone knows or has the same model, we would appreciate a photo of the location of these cables. Thank you.

I am hobbyist that is interested in purchasing a dedicated bandsaw. My budget and other constraints have me considering all of the following: Laguna LT18 Resaw Master, Felder FB 510, and SCM s540p. My constraints include that I am not interested in restoring an older bandsaw, and I do not have 3PH power (and do not want to go down that path for various reasons). These machines all cost similarly, have 1PH 4-5HP motors, and are close in size. I do not have much experience with resawing and have primarily looked to a family member with an MM16 to help me out in those circumstances. I have read here and elsewhere that many people think that tensioning a 1" blade to 25k is "the standard"...which it would appear that all of these machines are capable of. I imagine there are many more factors to consider as well...like customer support, quality of guides, etc. Does anyone have thoughts on these machines?

I have a frameless cabinet that is 44.5” wide and ~20” deep. I need to place pull out shelfs in the lower part of the cabinet. Is there any kind of slide that can accommodate this width? I can easily add a vertical partition to divide the width in half. Dimensioned drawing is attached. Thanks, Imran Malik IAM Wood Creations https://www.facebook.com/groups/362481112015700/?ref=share