Greetings group... while I have recently upgraded from my 1036 model “d” (I think) atlas to a 12” (model?101.28990)... but with VFD discussion, I have this... an old bandsaw I repowered with a treadmill motor... the motor being 2 1/2 hp DC with the matching controller included on a Craigslist found treadmill. ?I replaced the slide POT with a rotary and revised the drive for really slow band speed.. I wonder if this could be done on a lathe..maybe with addition of a rpm readout ....

(The guards, belt and motor are not shown)....

Al (newbie to the group but long time atlas user)

Sent magically?

On Jan 6, 2019, at 10:27 AM, cwlathes <carvelw@...> wrote:

Hi Raymond ,

?

The VFD’s that I am familiar with ( Hitachi and Yaskawa) , are current limited / protected ?. . .?

So if the motor attempts to draw more current than the VFD is capable of delivering , then it will reduce its voltage to limit the current to its maximum rating . . .?

So one wouldn’t be able to get more than say 750 watts out of a 750watt VFD irrespective of the motor size as I understand it . . .

Take care,

?

Carvel

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of mondosmetals
Sent: 06 January 2019 06:57 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Finally workbench for my lathe

?

Carvel:

You don't see any possibility of an over-current condition burning up the VFD? If that is a 1Hp motor and it is put under a heavy load the electrical demand in Watts (or joules if you want to get that deep) will still be there but the 3/4 Hp rated VFD will not be able to deliver so the current will increase.? No?

Raymond

On Jan 6, 2019, at 10:50 AM, a_rodi2 <a_rodi2@...> wrote:

Greetings group... while I have recently upgraded from my 1036 model “d” (I think) atlas to a 12” (model?101.28990)... but with VFD discussion, I have this... an old bandsaw I repowered with a treadmill motor... the motor being 2 1/2 hp DC with the matching controller included on a Craigslist found treadmill. ?I replaced the slide POT with a rotary and revised the drive for really slow band speed.. I wonder if this could be done on a lathe..maybe with addition of a rpm readout ....

(The guards, belt and motor are not shown)....

Al (newbie to the group but long time atlas user)

<image1.jpeg>

Sent magically?

On Jan 6, 2019, at 10:27 AM, cwlathes <carvelw@...> wrote:

Hi Raymond ,?

?

The VFD’s that I am familiar with ( Hitachi and Yaskawa) , are current limited / protected ?. . .??

So if the motor attempts to draw more current than the VFD is capable of delivering , then it will reduce its voltage to limit the current to its maximum rating . . .??

So one wouldn’t be able to get more than say 750 watts out of a 750watt VFD irrespective of the motor size as I understand it . . .?

Take care,?

?

Carvel?

?

From:?[email protected]?[mailto:[email protected]]?On Behalf Of?mondosmetals
Sent:?06 January 2019 06:57 PM
To:?[email protected]
Subject:?Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Finally workbench for my lathe

?

Carvel:

You don't see any possibility of an over-current condition burning up the VFD? If that is a 1Hp motor and it is put under a heavy load the electrical demand in Watts (or joules if you want to get that deep) will still be there but the 3/4 Hp rated VFD will not be able to deliver so the current will increase.? No?

Raymond?

One of my instructors in photography collected Nikon cameras. He had one made just post-war with the leaves of the shutter iris made from GI beer cans. You could see where the black paint didn't quite cover the Budweiser logo on the original beer can. Excellent use of found materials to do something pretty good. I have a WWII NCO-issue Samurai sword. It is NOT a good example of quality or craftsmanship, but it's still pretty strong. Mine was, according to the at least third-hand story, captured from the arsenal in Tokyo after the war, in unfinished condition. The blade wasn't sharpened yet. Still isn't, in fact. I've had for something close to 37 years. When I have the time, and the right stones, I'll probably sharpen it. But I wouldn't hesitate to use it today as is.? And the strongest rifle action I know of is the Arisaka, and even ones made late in the war were pretty tough. P.O. Ackley though well of them. Japanese electronics were not quite so good, at first. But their Zero fighters were better than just about anything we had until very late in the war.

One of the reasons I wanted a lathe in the first place was to make my own cameras. Still not quite there yet, and beer cans are no longer made of steel.

Bill in OKC

_

Yes, since we are talking about your workbench : ) and not drifting
off on topics that should be under their own headings so that in the
future people can search and find them easier ( hint, hint) : )
My initial question about top thickness was to lead into suggesting an
additional thicker/ studier top. Might even be a good idea to set it
up with studs located for your lathe feet and motor mounts pre
installed so you don't have to pull out the drawers to access the back
sides anytime you need to make adjustments. Then do some top down
attachment bolts threaded into the frame of the cabinet. That would
also allow any future changes to be made without unloading/ removing
drawers.

Nice Idea on the sewing machine motor! do they have the necessary
torque? Also is that speed controller included with the motor and what
size pulley is on it?

Thanks Ken H in AZ

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Guenther Paul
Sent: Sunday, 6 January, 2019 4:12 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live center

?

Dave
Got to ask. How does a turd smell

GP

--------------------------------------------
On Sun, 1/6/19, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live center
To: [email protected]
Date: Sunday, January 6, 2019, 4:45 PM

You can establish standards and sell the ISO
whatever stickers to make it sound impressive but it
doesn't always go that way! Been there many times.
Socket head cap screws for example, certified but the heads
pop off during installation! Dead blow hammers, spend $25 or
$30 and it'll last a good long time. The Chinesium ones
last a couple months, maybe. I could go on but I
won't.If it looks, feels and smells like
a turd, it's a turd.Lively off topic
discussion though, nice.DaveOn January 6, 2019 at 12:01 PM Andrei
<calciu1@...> wrote:

You can make super
good parts anywhere in the world. All you have to do is
establish the standards and enforce them. The race to the
lower price is generally a loser for anyone.

Get Outlook for
Android
From:
[email protected] <[email protected]>
on behalf of Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...>
Sent: Sunday, January 6, 2019
10:40:44 AM
To:
[email protected]

Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Royal
live center?I am firm believer to buy
Original American made replacement parts. I did find that
the American brand bearings are made in china as well so how
can you change that. I bean buying bearings from VXB
Bearings on line, so far I have no complaints with them and
yes they are china made.
Mercedes makes
all there crank shafts in china, I saw a video that plant is
so clean one can eat of the floor so now the oldest car
maker in the world making there main part of there engines
in china there is something wrong with the process

GP

--------------------------------------------

On Sun, 1/6/19, Dave Matticks
<dpm100@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live
center
To: [email protected]
Date: Sunday, January 6, 2019, 10:27 AM

I used the same bearing,
good clean up and new
grease did the
trick.A good new bearing
isn't real
cheap. McMaster has them around $40.00 for

the 3202 open bearing, Chinese are cheaper but......I have a
Czech made center that's ok but wanted

to use the original!DaveOn January 6, 2019 at 9:19 AM
Guenther Paul
<paulguenter@...>
wrote:

Nice job Dave
Looks like new
again. Did
you make sure you have the proper bearing a
pressure bearing ? How much was the bearing. I
have a live
center I made years ago need
to replace bearing on it


GP

apart as you may have
noticed!
I drilled and tapped two 10-32
holes in the
front cover plate and used a
slide hammer to
pull it out, not necessary
as that didn't
really help in
the end and I had to make a

new replacement!
Anyway, the od of
the point on mine is around .740. Put a
3/4" shaft
collar on it
leaving a gap
between that and the body
and use
2
screwdrivers/
pry bars, whatever to extract the tip.The

shank is separate, use maybe a 1/2"


diameter pin to push that out. I used my
10 ton Dake screw

press,
it's on a taper so when it
pops,
it's out.
Put a box of rags or
something under it so it doesn't
get
damaged.Then flip it
over and use

something
around 5/8" diameter to press out the bearing

along with the front cover.
Easy!
It uses a double row angular

contact bearing, 3202 I
believe. I was able to remove the

cages intact for a good cleaning.Old
hardened grease was the problem. Looks almost

new and runs
like
new.?Polish everything


up and put it back together. I first used

NLGI #2, had to do
it again, too much drag

so I switched to a Lithium #1. Shell
Gadus
S3 V220C1 to be exact,
couple dollars at McMaster. I
love that
place and they're about 2 miles
from
my house!
Don't use white lithium
and don't over pack.
My
youngest son

was USAF,
now he's Air National Guard
and a high
school
"industrial

technology" teacher, AKA machine

shop.?
Hope
this helps.

Dave
On January 5, 2019

at 7:21 PM "Bill in OKC
too via
Groups.Io"


<wmrmeyers@...>
wrote:

I may have
something at work

I can
borrow, if necessary. I've made
some
small parts
for them, so my boss is
good about loaniong tools. Get
yourself
settled, and take
your time. I retired from the
USAF over 20
years ago, but still remember
being
jetlagged
after getting home from
some long trips.


Bill in OKC


--------------------------------------------

On Sat, 1/5/19, Dave
Matticks

<dpm100@...> wrote:


Subject: Re:
[atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live
center
To:
[email protected]
Date: Saturday,
January 5, 2019, 6:40 PM


Hi
Bill, I

have more pics and can tell you the first


try way
and the easy way
to get it apart! Just
got home from
Iceland
yesterday but I'll
try to do

something tomorrow.? Mine
is
nice and smooth now

and runs
out less than

.0002". You're
going to have to

invest in a
3/4" 2
piece shaft collar


though, 1 piece clamp on could work as well.
Set screw
collars are
garbage. Dave



Sent from

my T-Mobile 4G LTE
Device

-------- Original

message --------From:

"Bill in OKC too via

Groups.Io"

<wmrmeyers@...>

Date: 1/5/19 18:16
(GMT-06:00) To:


[email protected]
Subject: Re:


[atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live center

Dave,I


only see one pic, and I'm VERY

interested because I got
one
with my SB

10L lathe,
and mine is more than "a


little crunchy."
Poor baby spent some years in an open

barn. More photos would be
welcome. More
info on how you got
it
apart, too. Mine
spent a few days soaking
in
evaporust

after a day

in purple power degreaser. Still real
crunchy. I

have a small
arbor press in
the home shop,
and a 20-ton HF
hydraulic
press available
at
work.
Looks like I'll need
a new
bearing, from your photo.?




Thanks
for a really
timely

post!
Bill

in OKC




On Sat, Jan 5, 2019 at 5:50

PM, Dave




Matticks<dpm100@...> wrote:



Hi guys,?
I have a
Royal
Products , Regal live center that
either came
with or was

purchased along with my
dad's lathe.
Whatever,
first one
I

ever used.?
Recently
rebuilt it. Nothing


wrong except for the
crunchy
bearings due
to dried up?
grease.?



Couple pics of the process.?

Dave

On January 6, 2019 at 4:22 PM Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...> wrote:

Dave got to ask
So now you admitted what you did Ha ha

GP

--------------------------------------------
On Sun, 1/6/19, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live center
To: [email protected]
Date: Sunday, January 6, 2019, 5:15 PM

Like shitOn January 6,
2019 at 4:12 PM Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...>
wrote:

Dave
Got to ask. How does a turd smell

GP

--------------------------------------------

On Sun, 1/6/19, Dave Matticks
<dpm100@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live
center
To: [email protected]
Date: Sunday, January 6, 2019, 4:45 PM

You can establish standards
and sell the ISO
whatever stickers to make
it sound impressive but it
doesn't
always go that way! Been there many times.

Socket head cap screws for example, certified but the heads

pop off during installation! Dead blow
hammers, spend $25 or
$30 and it'll
last a good long time. The Chinesium ones

last a couple months, maybe. I could go on but I
won't.If it looks, feels and smells like

a turd, it's a turd.Lively off topic

discussion though, nice.DaveOn January 6,
2019 at 12:01 PM Andrei

<calciu1@...> wrote:

You can make super
good
parts anywhere in the world. All you have to do is
establish the standards and enforce them. The
race to the
lower price is generally a
loser for anyone.

Get
Outlook for
Android

From:
[email protected]
<[email protected]>
on
behalf of Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...>
Sent: Sunday, January 6, 2019
10:40:44 AM
To:
[email protected]


Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Royal

live center?I am firm believer to buy
Original American made replacement parts. I
did find that
the American brand bearings
are made in china as well so how
can you
change that. I bean buying bearings from VXB
Bearings on line, so far I have no complaints
with them and
yes they are china made.
Mercedes makes
all there
crank shafts in china, I saw a video that plant is
so clean one can eat of the floor so now the
oldest car
maker in the world making there
main part of there engines
in china there
is something wrong with the process

GP


--------------------------------------------

On Sun, 1/6/19, Dave
Matticks
<dpm100@...> wrote:


Subject: Re:
[atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live
center
To: [email protected]
Date: Sunday, January 6, 2019, 10:27 AM

I used the same bearing,
good clean up and new
grease
did the
trick.A good new bearing
isn't real
cheap.
McMaster has them around $40.00 for

the 3202 open bearing, Chinese are cheaper
but......I have a
Czech made center
that's ok but wanted


to use the original!DaveOn January 6, 2019 at 9:19 AM
Guenther Paul

<paulguenter@...>
wrote:

Nice job Dave
Looks like new
again. Did

you make sure you have the proper bearing
a
pressure bearing ? How much was the
bearing. I
have a live

center I made years ago need
to replace
bearing on it


GP

apart
as you may have
noticed!

I drilled and tapped two 10-32
holes in
the
front cover plate and used a
slide hammer to
pull it out,
not necessary
as that didn't
really help in
the end and I
had to make a

new
replacement!
Anyway, the od of
the point on mine is around .740. Put a
3/4" shaft
collar on it

leaving a gap
between
that and the body
and use
2
screwdrivers/
pry bars, whatever to extract the tip.The

shank is separate, use maybe
a 1/2"


diameter pin to push that out. I used my
10 ton Dake screw

press,
it's on a taper
so when it
pops,

it's out.
Put a box of rags or
something under it so it doesn't
get
damaged.Then flip it
over and use

something
around 5/8"
diameter to press out the bearing

along with the front cover.

Easy!
It uses a double row angular

contact bearing, 3202 I
believe. I was able to remove the

cages intact for a good
cleaning.Old
hardened grease was the
problem. Looks almost


new and runs
like

new.?Polish everything



up and put it back together. I first used


NLGI #2, had to do
it again, too much drag

so I switched to a Lithium #1. Shell
Gadus
S3 V220C1 to be exact,

couple dollars at McMaster. I
love that
place and
they're about 2 miles
from
my house!
Don't use
white lithium
and don't over pack.
My
youngest son

was USAF,

now he's Air National Guard
and a high

school
"industrial


technology"
teacher, AKA machine


shop.?
Hope
this helps.


Dave

On January 5, 2019

at
7:21 PM "Bill in OKC
too via
Groups.Io"



<wmrmeyers@...>

wrote:

I may have
something at work

I can
borrow, if necessary.
I've made
some
small
parts
for them, so my boss is
good about loaniong tools. Get
yourself
settled, and take

your time. I retired from the
USAF over 20
years ago, but
still remember
being

jetlagged
after getting home from
some long trips.


Bill in OKC



--------------------------------------------

On Sat, 1/5/19, Dave
Matticks


<dpm100@...> wrote:


Subject: Re:
[atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live
center
To:

[email protected]
Date: Saturday,

January 5, 2019, 6:40 PM



Hi

Bill, I

have more pics
and can tell you the first


try way

and the easy way
to get it apart! Just
got home from
Iceland
yesterday but I'll
try
to do

something
tomorrow.? Mine
is
nice
and smooth now

and runs

out less than

.0002". You're

going to have to

invest
in a
3/4" 2
piece
shaft collar


though, 1 piece clamp on could work as well.

Set screw
collars are

garbage. Dave



Sent from


my T-Mobile 4G LTE
Device


-------- Original


message --------From:


"Bill in OKC too via

Groups.Io"

<wmrmeyers@...>

Date: 1/5/19 18:16
(GMT-06:00) To:


[email protected]

Subject: Re:


[atlas-craftsman IO] Royal
live center

Dave,I


only see
one pic, and I'm VERY

interested because I got
one

with my SB

10L lathe,
and mine is more
than "a


little crunchy."
Poor
baby spent some years in an open

barn. More photos would be

welcome. More
info on how you got
it
apart, too. Mine
spent a few days soaking
in

evaporust

after a day

in purple power degreaser. Still real
crunchy. I


have a small
arbor press in
the home shop,
and a 20-ton
HF
hydraulic
press
available
at
work.
Looks like I'll need
a
new
bearing, from your photo.?




Thanks
for
a really
timely

post!
Bill


in OKC





On
Sat, Jan 5, 2019 at 5:50


PM, Dave





Matticks<dpm100@...> wrote:




Hi
guys,?
I have a
Royal

Products , Regal live center that
either came
with or was

purchased along with my
dad's lathe.
Whatever,

first one
I

ever used.?
Recently
rebuilt it. Nothing



wrong
except for the
crunchy

bearings due
to dried up?
grease.?




Couple pics of the
process.?


Dave

On January 6, 2019 at 4:12 PM Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...> wrote:

Dave
Got to ask. How does a turd smell

GP

--------------------------------------------
On Sun, 1/6/19, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live center
To: [email protected]
Date: Sunday, January 6, 2019, 4:45 PM

You can establish standards and sell the ISO
whatever stickers to make it sound impressive but it
doesn't always go that way! Been there many times.
Socket head cap screws for example, certified but the heads
pop off during installation! Dead blow hammers, spend $25 or
$30 and it'll last a good long time. The Chinesium ones
last a couple months, maybe. I could go on but I
won't.If it looks, feels and smells like
a turd, it's a turd.Lively off topic
discussion though, nice.DaveOn January 6, 2019 at 12:01 PM Andrei
<calciu1@...> wrote:

You can make super
good parts anywhere in the world. All you have to do is
establish the standards and enforce them. The race to the
lower price is generally a loser for anyone.

Get Outlook for
Android
From:
[email protected] <[email protected]>
on behalf of Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...>
Sent: Sunday, January 6, 2019
10:40:44 AM
To:
[email protected]

Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Royal
live center?I am firm believer to buy
Original American made replacement parts. I did find that
the American brand bearings are made in china as well so how
can you change that. I bean buying bearings from VXB
Bearings on line, so far I have no complaints with them and
yes they are china made.
Mercedes makes
all there crank shafts in china, I saw a video that plant is
so clean one can eat of the floor so now the oldest car
maker in the world making there main part of there engines
in china there is something wrong with the process

GP

--------------------------------------------

On Sun, 1/6/19, Dave Matticks
<dpm100@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live
center
To: [email protected]
Date: Sunday, January 6, 2019, 10:27 AM

I used the same bearing,
good clean up and new
grease did the
trick.A good new bearing
isn't real
cheap. McMaster has them around $40.00 for

the 3202 open bearing, Chinese are cheaper but......I have a
Czech made center that's ok but wanted

to use the original!DaveOn January 6, 2019 at 9:19 AM
Guenther Paul
<paulguenter@...>
wrote:

Nice job Dave
Looks like new
again. Did
you make sure you have the proper bearing a
pressure bearing ? How much was the bearing. I
have a live
center I made years ago need
to replace bearing on it


GP

apart as you may have
noticed!
I drilled and tapped two 10-32
holes in the
front cover plate and used a
slide hammer to
pull it out, not necessary
as that didn't
really help in
the end and I had to make a

new replacement!
Anyway, the od of
the point on mine is around .740. Put a
3/4" shaft
collar on it
leaving a gap
between that and the body
and use
2
screwdrivers/
pry bars, whatever to extract the tip.The

shank is separate, use maybe a 1/2"


diameter pin to push that out. I used my
10 ton Dake screw

press,
it's on a taper so when it
pops,
it's out.
Put a box of rags or
something under it so it doesn't
get
damaged.Then flip it
over and use

something
around 5/8" diameter to press out the bearing

along with the front cover.
Easy!
It uses a double row angular

contact bearing, 3202 I
believe. I was able to remove the

cages intact for a good cleaning.Old
hardened grease was the problem. Looks almost

new and runs
like
new.?Polish everything


up and put it back together. I first used

NLGI #2, had to do
it again, too much drag

so I switched to a Lithium #1. Shell
Gadus
S3 V220C1 to be exact,
couple dollars at McMaster. I
love that
place and they're about 2 miles
from
my house!
Don't use white lithium
and don't over pack.
My
youngest son

was USAF,
now he's Air National Guard
and a high
school
"industrial

technology" teacher, AKA machine

shop.?
Hope
this helps.

Dave
On January 5, 2019

at 7:21 PM "Bill in OKC
too via
Groups.Io"


<wmrmeyers@...>
wrote:

I may have
something at work

I can
borrow, if necessary. I've made
some
small parts
for them, so my boss is
good about loaniong tools. Get
yourself
settled, and take
your time. I retired from the
USAF over 20
years ago, but still remember
being
jetlagged
after getting home from
some long trips.


Bill in OKC


--------------------------------------------

On Sat, 1/5/19, Dave
Matticks

<dpm100@...> wrote:


Subject: Re:
[atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live
center
To:
[email protected]
Date: Saturday,
January 5, 2019, 6:40 PM


Hi
Bill, I

have more pics and can tell you the first


try way
and the easy way
to get it apart! Just
got home from
Iceland
yesterday but I'll
try to do

something tomorrow.? Mine
is
nice and smooth now

and runs
out less than

.0002". You're
going to have to

invest in a
3/4" 2
piece shaft collar


though, 1 piece clamp on could work as well.
Set screw
collars are
garbage. Dave



Sent from

my T-Mobile 4G LTE
Device

-------- Original

message --------From:

"Bill in OKC too via

Groups.Io"

<wmrmeyers@...>

Date: 1/5/19 18:16
(GMT-06:00) To:


[email protected]
Subject: Re:


[atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live center

Dave,I


only see one pic, and I'm VERY

interested because I got
one
with my SB

10L lathe,
and mine is more than "a


little crunchy."
Poor baby spent some years in an open

barn. More photos would be
welcome. More
info on how you got
it
apart, too. Mine
spent a few days soaking
in
evaporust

after a day

in purple power degreaser. Still real
crunchy. I

have a small
arbor press in
the home shop,
and a 20-ton HF
hydraulic
press available
at
work.
Looks like I'll need
a new
bearing, from your photo.?




Thanks
for a really
timely

post!
Bill

in OKC




On Sat, Jan 5, 2019 at 5:50

PM, Dave




Matticks<dpm100@...> wrote:



Hi guys,?
I have a
Royal
Products , Regal live center that
either came
with or was

purchased along with my
dad's lathe.
Whatever,
first one
I

ever used.?
Recently
rebuilt it. Nothing


wrong except for the
crunchy
bearings due
to dried up?
grease.?



Couple pics of the process.?

Dave

On January 6, 2019 at 3:58 PM David Beierl <dbeierl@...> wrote:

The Chinesium ones last a couple months, maybe.??

But that's because they're crap, not because they're Chinese.? If we want good tools and are willing to pay for them the Chinese will sell them to us.? If we want cheap tools, the Chinese will sell them to us.? ?If we don't care they'll sell us cheap ones -- they seem spring-loaded in that direction.

Yrs,

d

?

?

?

On January 1, 2019 at 10:23 AM Ralph Hulslander <rhulslander@...> wrote:

Thanks everyone for the replies, plus thank you that after 20 or more replies we are still on subject!!

I am still a bit of a loss on if I will go for the

Does anyone have a good "working" alternative? I do not really want/need CNC for my lathe but automated thread

cutting and tapers. I have started looking at MACH3 and 4 the suggested CNC from John (Automation Artisians)

I might want to go to CNC on my Clausing 8520 Mill. But even there the ELS would probable work on X and Y.

I have limited time so I really cannot just "put one together".

I am starting a new thread on the lead screw.

Ralph

On Tue, Jan 1, 2019 at 1:44 AM Charles < xlch58@...> wrote:

If you have followed that group for a while, you would see that the designer of the ELS acknowledges the limitations, particularly with large coarse threads. ? There has been a long running multi year thread on redesigning it and other than a change in processor, increased resolution on the encoder has been the number one discussion. There are also several other open source projects out there, all that I know of are using a higher resolution encoder.? The original ELS processor was not fast enough to handle a higher resolution and do all of its other housekeeping tasks.? ELS as designed does a good job within its envelope especially for a decade old home brew, but that envelope is more restricted than what a geared setup allows.? ELS was designed for simple machines that did not have thread cutting capability, in which case it is an indisputable improvement, however retro fitting a lathe with change gear capability may offer increased convenience, but not necessarily more versatility.

Charles

?

On Dec 31, 2018, at 10:51 PM, Rick Rick < crvtfan@...> wrote:

Robert;
While I agree with your logic and incredible knowledge on lathes I disagree with you on your statement copied below;

" But it isn’t within several orders of magnitude of being ?good enough to control a stepper motor driving a lead screw to produce usable threads"

The electronic lead screw project does a wonderful job of threading with just a single pulse per rev.
? You can view the news group on Yahoo.? Look up ELS, electronic lead screw.
Rick

?

?

On January 6, 2019 at 12:01 PM Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:

You can make super good parts anywhere in the world. All you have to do is establish the standards and enforce them. The race to the lower price is generally a loser for anyone.

Get

---

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...>
Sent: Sunday, January 6, 2019 10:40:44 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live center

?

I am firm believer to buy Original American made replacement parts. I did find that the American brand bearings are made in china as well so how can you change that. I bean buying bearings from VXB Bearings on line, so far I have no complaints with them and yes they are china made.
Mercedes makes all there crank shafts in china, I saw a video that plant is so clean one can eat of the floor so now the oldest car maker in the world making there main part of there engines in china there is something wrong with the process

GP

--------------------------------------------
On Sun, 1/6/19, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live center
To: [email protected]
Date: Sunday, January 6, 2019, 10:27 AM

I used the same bearing, good clean up and new
grease did the trick.A good new bearing
isn't real cheap. McMaster has them around $40.00 for
the 3202 open bearing, Chinese are cheaper but......I have a Czech made center that's ok but wanted
to use the original!DaveOn January 6, 2019 at 9:19 AM Guenther Paul
<paulguenter@...> wrote:

Nice job Dave
Looks like new
again. Did you make sure you have the proper bearing a
pressure bearing ? How much was the bearing. I have a live
center I made years ago need to replace bearing on it

GP

apart as you may have noticed!
I drilled and tapped two 10-32 holes in the
front cover plate and used a slide hammer to
pull it out, not necessary as that didn't
really help in
the end and I had to make a
new replacement!
Anyway, the od of
the point on mine is around .740. Put a
3/4" shaft
collar on it leaving a gap
between that and the body and use
2
screwdrivers/ pry bars, whatever to extract the tip.The
shank is separate, use maybe a 1/2"

diameter pin to push that out. I used my 10 ton Dake screw

press, it's on a taper so when it
pops, it's out.
Put a box of rags or
something under it so it doesn't
get
damaged.Then flip it over and use

something around 5/8" diameter to press out the bearing

along with the front cover. Easy!
It uses a double row angular

contact bearing, 3202 I believe. I was able to remove the

cages intact for a good cleaning.Old
hardened grease was the problem. Looks almost
new and runs
like new.?Polish everything

up and put it back together. I first used
NLGI #2, had to do
it again, too much drag
so I switched to a Lithium #1. Shell
Gadus
S3 V220C1 to be exact, couple dollars at McMaster. I
love that place and they're about 2 miles
from my house!
Don't use white lithium
and don't over pack.
My youngest son

was USAF, now he's Air National Guard
and a high school
"industrial
technology" teacher, AKA machine

shop.?
Hope
this helps.

Dave
On January 5, 2019

at 7:21 PM "Bill in OKC too via
Groups.Io"

<wmrmeyers@...> wrote:

I may have something at work

I can borrow, if necessary. I've made
some small parts
for them, so my boss is
good about loaniong tools. Get
yourself
settled, and take your time. I retired from the
USAF over 20 years ago, but still remember
being jetlagged
after getting home from
some long trips.


Bill in OKC

--------------------------------------------

On Sat, 1/5/19, Dave
Matticks
<dpm100@...> wrote:


Subject: Re:
[atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live
center
To: [email protected]
Date: Saturday, January 5, 2019, 6:40 PM

Hi
Bill, I

have more pics and can tell you the first


try way and the easy way
to get it apart! Just
got home from
Iceland yesterday but I'll
try to do

something tomorrow.? Mine is
nice and smooth now
and runs
out less than
.0002". You're
going to have to
invest in a
3/4" 2 piece shaft collar

though, 1 piece clamp on could work as well.
Set screw
collars are garbage. Dave



Sent from
my T-Mobile 4G LTE
Device

-------- Original

message --------From:

"Bill in OKC too via
Groups.Io"

<wmrmeyers@...>

Date: 1/5/19 18:16
(GMT-06:00) To:


[email protected] Subject: Re:

[atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live center

Dave,I

only see one pic, and I'm VERY

interested because I got
one with my SB

10L lathe, and mine is more than "a


little crunchy."
Poor baby spent some years in an open

barn. More photos would be welcome. More
info on how you got
it
apart, too. Mine
spent a few days soaking
in evaporust

after a day
in purple power degreaser. Still real crunchy. I

have a small arbor press in
the home shop,
and a 20-ton HF
hydraulic press available
at
work. Looks like I'll need
a new
bearing, from your photo.?



Thanks for a really
timely

post!
Bill
in OKC



On Sat, Jan 5, 2019 at 5:50

PM, Dave


Matticks<dpm100@...> wrote:


Hi guys,?
I have a
Royal
Products , Regal live center that
either came
with or was

purchased along with my
dad's lathe.
Whatever, first one
I

ever used.?
Recently rebuilt it. Nothing


wrong except for the
crunchy bearings due
to dried up?
grease.?


Couple pics of the process.?

Dave

?

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