As is the race to the highest price.?
Sent from my Boost Mobile Phone.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-------- Original message -------- From: Andrei <calciu1@...> Date: 1/6/19 1:01 PM (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live center
You can make super good parts anywhere in the world. All you have to do is establish the standards and enforce them. The race to the lower price is generally a loser for anyone.
I am firm believer to buy Original American made replacement parts. I did find that the American brand bearings are made in china as well so how can you change that. I bean buying bearings from VXB Bearings on line, so far I have no complaints with them
and yes they are china made.
Mercedes makes all there crank shafts in china, I saw a video that plant is so clean one can eat of the floor so now the oldest car maker in the world making there main part of there engines in china there is something wrong with the process
GP
--------------------------------------------
On Sun, 1/6/19, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live center
To: [email protected]
Date: Sunday, January 6, 2019, 10:27 AM
I used the same bearing, good clean up and new
grease did the trick.A good new bearing
isn't real cheap. McMaster has them around $40.00 for
the 3202 open bearing, Chinese are cheaper but......I have a Czech made center that's ok but wanted
to use the original!DaveOn January 6, 2019 at 9:19 AM Guenther Paul
<paulguenter@...> wrote:
Nice job Dave
Looks like new
again. Did you make sure you have the proper bearing a
pressure bearing ? How much was the bearing. I have a live
center I made years ago need to replace bearing on it
GP
apart as you may have noticed!
I drilled and tapped two 10-32 holes in the
front cover plate and used a slide hammer to
pull it out, not necessary as that didn't
really help in
the end and I had to make a
new replacement!
Anyway, the od of
the point on mine is around .740. Put a
3/4" shaft
collar on it leaving a gap
between that and the body and use
2
screwdrivers/ pry bars, whatever to extract the tip.The
shank is separate, use maybe a 1/2"
diameter pin to push that out. I used my 10 ton Dake screw
press, it's on a taper so when it
pops, it's out.
Put a box of rags or
something under it so it doesn't
get
damaged.Then flip it over and use
something around 5/8" diameter to press out the bearing
along with the front cover. Easy!
It uses a double row angular
contact bearing, 3202 I believe. I was able to remove the
cages intact for a good cleaning.Old
hardened grease was the problem. Looks almost
new and runs
like new.?Polish everything
up and put it back together. I first used
NLGI #2, had to do
it again, too much drag
so I switched to a Lithium #1. Shell
Gadus
S3 V220C1 to be exact, couple dollars at McMaster. I
love that place and they're about 2 miles
from my house!
Don't use white lithium
and don't over pack.
My youngest son
was USAF, now he's Air National Guard
and a high school
"industrial
technology" teacher, AKA machine
shop.?
Hope
this helps.
Dave
On January 5, 2019
at 7:21 PM "Bill in OKC too via
Groups.Io"
<wmrmeyers@...> wrote:
I may have something at work
I can borrow, if necessary. I've made
some small parts
for them, so my boss is
good about loaniong tools. Get
yourself
settled, and take your time. I retired from the
USAF over 20 years ago, but still remember
being jetlagged
after getting home from
some long trips.
Bill in OKC
--------------------------------------------
On Sat, 1/5/19, Dave
Matticks
<dpm100@...> wrote:
Subject: Re:
[atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live
center
To: [email protected]
Date: Saturday, January 5, 2019, 6:40 PM
Hi
Bill, I
have more pics and can tell you the first
try way and the easy way
to get it apart! Just
got home from
Iceland yesterday but I'll
try to do
something tomorrow.? Mine is
nice and smooth now
and runs
out less than
.0002". You're
going to have to
invest in a
3/4" 2 piece shaft collar
though, 1 piece clamp on could work as well.
Set screw
collars are garbage. Dave
Sent from
my T-Mobile 4G LTE
Device
-------- Original
message --------From:
"Bill in OKC too via
Groups.Io"
<wmrmeyers@...>
Date: 1/5/19 18:16
(GMT-06:00) To:
[email protected] Subject: Re:
[atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live center
Dave,I
only see one pic, and I'm VERY
interested because I got
one with my SB
10L lathe, and mine is more than "a
little crunchy."
Poor baby spent some years in an open
barn. More photos would be welcome. More
info on how you got
it
apart, too. Mine
spent a few days soaking
in evaporust
after a day
in purple power degreaser. Still real crunchy. I
have a small arbor press in
the home shop,
and a 20-ton HF
hydraulic press available
at
work. Looks like I'll need
a new
bearing, from your photo.?
Thanks for a really
timely
post!
Bill
in OKC
On Sat, Jan 5, 2019 at 5:50
PM, Dave
Matticks<dpm100@...> wrote:
Hi guys,?
I have a
Royal
Products , Regal live center that
either came
with or was
purchased along with my
dad's lathe.
Whatever, first one
I
ever used.?
Recently rebuilt it. Nothing
wrong except for the
crunchy bearings due
to dried up?
grease.?
Couple pics of the process.?
Dave
|
There is almost always room for craftsmanship. I have seen some exquisite work done with very simple tools under difficult conditions.
Bill in OKC
--------------------------------------------
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Sun, 1/6/19, David Beierl <dbeierl@...> wrote: Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live center To: [email protected] Date: Sunday, January 6, 2019, 1:45 PM One of my instructors in photography collected Nikon cameras. He had one made just post-war with the leaves of the shutter iris made from GI beer cans.? My dad was in Tokyo at the end of the war.? He brought home a 25 mm micrometer which had been damaged, then given a new serial number, with the female screw assembly made from copper and hand-scribed and numbered. The guy should have signed it. Yrs,d
|
One of my instructors in photography collected Nikon cameras. He had one made just post-war with the leaves of the shutter iris made from GI beer cans.?
My dad was in Tokyo at the end of the war.? He brought home a 25 mm micrometer which had been damaged, then given a new serial number, with the female screw assembly made from copper and hand-scribed and numbered.
The guy should have signed it.
Yrs, d?
|
Re: Finally workbench for my lathe
What size is is the motor shaft? A DC motor could work, and if it doesn't, I could put it on my bandsaw.
I'm easy. Not cheap, but easy. :)
Bill in OKC
--------------------------------------------
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Sun, 1/6/19, Ralph Hulslander <rhulslander@...> wrote: Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Finally workbench for my lathe To: [email protected] Date: Sunday, January 6, 2019, 10:54 AM Since we are talking about my new workbench/tool cabinet I am ready toadd a Consew 3/4hp Brushless Dc motor to my Craftsman 12x36 lathe. I have one on my 14" Delta Bandsaw and it works great! and for $132.49 much cheaper than going 3ph! Ralph On Sun, Jan 6, 2019 at 10:47 AM Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io <wmrmeyers@...> wrote: It wasn't the Atlas I was talking about there, but its new companion, a South Bend Heavy 10L toolroom lathe. Also known as a gunsmith's lathe. I can see it needing a heavier motor. Uses 5C collets rather than the 3C's Atlas uses. 1-3/8" spindle through hole. SNIP! _._,_._,_
|
One of my instructors in photography collected Nikon cameras. He had one made just post-war with the leaves of the shutter iris made from GI beer cans. You could see where the black paint didn't quite cover the Budweiser logo on the original beer can. Excellent use of found materials to do something pretty good. I have a WWII NCO-issue Samurai sword. It is NOT a good example of quality or craftsmanship, but it's still pretty strong. Mine was, according to the at least third-hand story, captured from the arsenal in Tokyo after the war, in unfinished condition. The blade wasn't sharpened yet. Still isn't, in fact. I've had for something close to 37 years. When I have the time, and the right stones, I'll probably sharpen it. But I wouldn't hesitate to use it today as is.? And the strongest rifle action I know of is the Arisaka, and even ones made late in the war were pretty tough. P.O. Ackley though well of them. Japanese electronics were not quite so good, at first. But their Zero fighters were better than just about anything we had until very late in the war.
One of the reasons I wanted a lathe in the first place was to make my own cameras. Still not quite there yet, and beer cans are no longer made of steel.
Bill in OKC
|
Re: Finally workbench for my lathe
??? ??? Having had a 220 V, 3/4 HP AC motor running my 12 x 36
Atlas for the last 50 years I would like to know the advantages of
upgrading to a 3/4 HP Consew? At $132.49 cheaper than replacing my
original motor!? Bill in Boulder CO USA, Inquiring minds want to
know!
On 1/6/19 9:54 AM, Ralph Hulslander
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Since we are talking about my new workbench/tool cabinet I
am ready to
add a
to my Craftsman 12x36 lathe.
I have one on my saw and it works
great!
and for $132.49 much cheaper than going 3ph!
Ralph
|
I'm just old enough to remember when Made in Japan meant probably not real good, but that was a while back. After Dr. Deming got through with them, they were starting to beat the pants off of us on a lot of high quality goods.?
The cheap tin toys etc were General MacArthur's idea for something they could do with cheap/salvaged materials to bring some cash flow into their wrecked country.? They were already challenging the Germans in optics by WWII and were perfectly capable of high-class industrial output as well as supreme craftsmanship.? Their WWII "Long Lance" torpedo was superior to ours even after ours were (finally) fixed.
Yrs, d?
|
Greetings group... while I have recently upgraded from my 1036 model ¡°d¡± (I think) atlas to a 12¡± (model?101.28990)... but with VFD discussion, I have this... an old bandsaw I repowered with a treadmill motor... the motor being 2 1/2 hp DC with the matching
controller included on a Craigslist found treadmill. ?I replaced the slide POT with a rotary and revised the drive for really slow band speed.. I wonder if this could be done on a lathe..maybe with addition of a rpm readout ....
(The guards, belt and motor are not shown)....
Al (newbie to the group but long time atlas user)
Sent magically?
On Jan 6, 2019, at 10:27 AM, cwlathes < carvelw@...> wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hi Raymond ,
?
The VFD¡¯s that I am familiar with ( Hitachi and Yaskawa) , are current limited / protected ?. . .?
So if the motor attempts to draw more current than the VFD is capable of delivering , then it will reduce its voltage to limit the current to its maximum rating . . .?
So one wouldn¡¯t be able to get more than say 750 watts out of a 750watt VFD irrespective of the motor size as I understand it . . .
Take care,
?
Carvel
?
From:
[email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
On Behalf Of mondosmetals
Sent: 06 January 2019 06:57 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Finally workbench for my lathe
?
Carvel:
You don't see any possibility of an over-current condition burning up the VFD? If that is a 1Hp motor and it is put under a heavy load the electrical demand in Watts (or joules if you want to get that deep) will still be there but the 3/4 Hp rated VFD will
not be able to deliver so the current will increase.? No?
Raymond
|
You can make super good parts anywhere in the world. All you have to do is establish the standards and enforce them. The race to the lower price is generally a loser for anyone.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I am firm believer to buy Original American made replacement parts. I did find that the American brand bearings are made in china as well so how can you change that. I bean buying bearings from VXB Bearings on line, so far I have no complaints with them
and yes they are china made.
Mercedes makes all there crank shafts in china, I saw a video that plant is so clean one can eat of the floor so now the oldest car maker in the world making there main part of there engines in china there is something wrong with the process
GP
--------------------------------------------
On Sun, 1/6/19, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live center
To: [email protected]
Date: Sunday, January 6, 2019, 10:27 AM
I used the same bearing, good clean up and new
grease did the trick.A good new bearing
isn't real cheap. McMaster has them around $40.00 for
the 3202 open bearing, Chinese are cheaper but......I have a Czech made center that's ok but wanted
to use the original!DaveOn January 6, 2019 at 9:19 AM Guenther Paul
<paulguenter@...> wrote:
Nice job Dave
Looks like new
again. Did you make sure you have the proper bearing a
pressure bearing ? How much was the bearing. I have a live
center I made years ago need to replace bearing on it
GP
apart as you may have noticed!
I drilled and tapped two 10-32 holes in the
front cover plate and used a slide hammer to
pull it out, not necessary as that didn't
really help in
the end and I had to make a
new replacement!
Anyway, the od of
the point on mine is around .740. Put a
3/4" shaft
collar on it leaving a gap
between that and the body and use
2
screwdrivers/ pry bars, whatever to extract the tip.The
shank is separate, use maybe a 1/2"
diameter pin to push that out. I used my 10 ton Dake screw
press, it's on a taper so when it
pops, it's out.
Put a box of rags or
something under it so it doesn't
get
damaged.Then flip it over and use
something around 5/8" diameter to press out the bearing
along with the front cover. Easy!
It uses a double row angular
contact bearing, 3202 I believe. I was able to remove the
cages intact for a good cleaning.Old
hardened grease was the problem. Looks almost
new and runs
like new.?Polish everything
up and put it back together. I first used
NLGI #2, had to do
it again, too much drag
so I switched to a Lithium #1. Shell
Gadus
S3 V220C1 to be exact, couple dollars at McMaster. I
love that place and they're about 2 miles
from my house!
Don't use white lithium
and don't over pack.
My youngest son
was USAF, now he's Air National Guard
and a high school
"industrial
technology" teacher, AKA machine
shop.?
Hope
this helps.
Dave
On January 5, 2019
at 7:21 PM "Bill in OKC too via
Groups.Io"
<wmrmeyers@...> wrote:
I may have something at work
I can borrow, if necessary. I've made
some small parts
for them, so my boss is
good about loaniong tools. Get
yourself
settled, and take your time. I retired from the
USAF over 20 years ago, but still remember
being jetlagged
after getting home from
some long trips.
Bill in OKC
--------------------------------------------
On Sat, 1/5/19, Dave
Matticks
<dpm100@...> wrote:
Subject: Re:
[atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live
center
To: [email protected]
Date: Saturday, January 5, 2019, 6:40 PM
Hi
Bill, I
have more pics and can tell you the first
try way and the easy way
to get it apart! Just
got home from
Iceland yesterday but I'll
try to do
something tomorrow.? Mine is
nice and smooth now
and runs
out less than
.0002". You're
going to have to
invest in a
3/4" 2 piece shaft collar
though, 1 piece clamp on could work as well.
Set screw
collars are garbage. Dave
Sent from
my T-Mobile 4G LTE
Device
-------- Original
message --------From:
"Bill in OKC too via
Groups.Io"
<wmrmeyers@...>
Date: 1/5/19 18:16
(GMT-06:00) To:
[email protected] Subject: Re:
[atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live center
Dave,I
only see one pic, and I'm VERY
interested because I got
one with my SB
10L lathe, and mine is more than "a
little crunchy."
Poor baby spent some years in an open
barn. More photos would be welcome. More
info on how you got
it
apart, too. Mine
spent a few days soaking
in evaporust
after a day
in purple power degreaser. Still real crunchy. I
have a small arbor press in
the home shop,
and a 20-ton HF
hydraulic press available
at
work. Looks like I'll need
a new
bearing, from your photo.?
Thanks for a really
timely
post!
Bill
in OKC
On Sat, Jan 5, 2019 at 5:50
PM, Dave
Matticks<dpm100@...> wrote:
Hi guys,?
I have a
Royal
Products , Regal live center that
either came
with or was
purchased along with my
dad's lathe.
Whatever, first one
I
ever used.?
Recently rebuilt it. Nothing
wrong except for the
crunchy bearings due
to dried up?
grease.?
Couple pics of the process.?
Dave
|
Re: Finally workbench for my lathe
Hi Raymond , ? The VFD¡¯s that I am familiar with ( Hitachi and Yaskawa) , are current limited / protected ?. . .?
So if the motor attempts to draw more current than the VFD is capable of delivering , then it will reduce its voltage to limit the current to its maximum rating . . .?
So one wouldn¡¯t be able to get more than say 750 watts out of a 750watt VFD irrespective of the motor size as I understand it . . .
Take care, ? Carvel ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of mondosmetals
Sent: 06 January 2019 06:57 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Finally workbench for my lathe ? Carvel:
You don't see any possibility of an over-current condition burning up the VFD? If that is a 1Hp motor and it is put under a heavy load the electrical demand in Watts (or joules if you want to get that deep) will still be there but the 3/4 Hp rated VFD will not be able to deliver so the current will increase.? No?
Raymond
|
Re: Finally workbench for my lathe
Hi Bill,
Thanks for that clarification J
I must confess the ¡°L¡± in the ¡°10L¡± escaped me . . . .?
Keep well, ? Carvel ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io
Sent: 06 January 2019 05:47 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Finally workbench for my lathe ? It wasn't the Atlas I was talking about there, but its new companion, a South Bend Heavy 10L toolroom lathe. Also known as a gunsmith's lathe. I can see it needing a heavier motor. Uses 5C collets rather than the 3C's Atlas uses. 1-3/8" spindle through hole. Once I? have that running, and with a 3 phase motor & VFD, I may look again at doing it to the Atlas. It has a 1/2hp 1ph motor, IIRC, and it doesn't need to be any heavier, but variable speed would sure be nice. It's a 10F. All is now clear to me, too! ;) On Sunday, January 6, 2019, 8:42:12 AM CST, cwlathes <carvelw@...> wrote: Hi Bill, ? That is very curious .
My post war Atlas catalogue lists only 1/3 and ? HP motors ( single and 3 phase ) for the 10¡± lathe ( see below )
I wonder how that came about ¨C maybe one of our more knowledgeable historians can assist :>)
With regard to the VFD , my understanding is that a smaller VFD can drive a larger motor provided the current limit of the VFD is not exceeded, and a larger VFD can drive a smaller motor provided the current limit of the motor is not exceeded ¨C but I speak under correction , ? Keep well, ? Carvel ? ? From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io
Sent: 06 January 2019 10:55 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Finally workbench for my lathe ? Don't know about that. The serial number card says it was shipped with a 3/4hp 1ph 1725 rpm motor. And a 3/4hp VFD might not be able to turn a motor rated for 2hp at all. And the motor is physically large enough it could be a 3HP motor. I don't know a lot about 3phase motors, but I work with them, so have been reading up on them. My equipment that I work on has quite a variety of motors, many 3 phase, and rated from 1/4HP to 60HP. I've still got a lot of parts to derust, paint, and put back together, so I'm not in a great hurry at the moment. Get down to the last couple of parts, it will get more urgent, though, I do suspect! ;) On Sunday, January 6, 2019, 1:48:59 AM CST, cwlathes <carvelw@...> wrote: Morning Bill,
The VFD doesn¡¯t HAVE to be matched to the motor power wise , as long as it can deliver enough power for your needs . . . .
In other words , if you happened to come across a VFD capable of driving a ? HP motor , and your mystery motor was rated at 1HP , all it would mean is that you would be limited to drawing ? of its capacity which would probably be more than adequate given that the original motors for this lathe were 1/3 or ? HP ? Regards, ? Carvel ? From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io
Sent: 06 January 2019 06:06 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Finally workbench for my lathe ? I'm thinking a 3/4hp 3ph motor and VFD for mine, as my 10L originally shipped with a 1725rpm 3/4hp 1ph motor. Everything I've read or heard about the Teco VFD's seem to indicate they're the smart move. Haven't had much luck finding anything for less than about $3-400 for the combination, plus shipping.? The lathe came with a 3ph motor without a data plate. Old but not quite as rusty as the rest of the lathe. I have a contact tachometer so could find out what speed it is, but I'd have to take it to work to get power to test it. Did borrow their megger, no leakage or shorts at 1kv. If I knew what hp it's rated for I could just buy the VFD. I have 220vac power in the shop at one location, could extend it. Or move the lathe to it.? I gave up on my HF tool chest as a stand for my Atlas TH42. It is just a bit too long, and also too wide for the "42 inch" tool box. That is 42 inches including the handle. 40 inches long x 18 inches deep, about a 3/4"lip on back and sides. I got it just before they came out with the 22" deep tool chests, of course. So it's going to be a tool chest. With tools in it. Imagine that! :) The table is one I've mentioned here before. It's 3' x 8', 1/8" steel top, now with 1" of Baltic birch plywood on top of the steel. I need to get the drip pan I told you about from under the Atlas MF Mill and put it under the Atlas lathe. I have a new 2' x 3' drip pan for the mill, and another for the Lewis shaper. I've been planning on putting that on the table with the lathe and mill, but I'm wondering if that is such a good idea. I've only run the shaper once, and promptly took it back off the heavy steel file cabinet I'd mounted it on. Lots of momentum there as the ram moves back and forth. Probably do bad things to the fine finish on a part turned while it was running. :) ? ? On Fri, Jan 4, 2019 at 11:39 PM, Jody So the motor is a Baldor 3 phase 1/2 hp. I picked it up new on ebay for real cheap. It was a steal of a deal and made it much easier to justify the conversion. The original motor was likely going to require a re-wire and rebuild. I have a Teco 1/2 hp size VFD.? I've been real happy with it and the technical support was very helpful with a direct line to technicians.? I called them a few times with wiring and programing questions...and they were very helpful.??
-------- Original message --------
From: mike allen <animal@...>
Date: 1/4/19 10:14 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Finally workbench for my lathe
any more info on yer motor & controller ?
??? ??? animal
On 1/4/2019 1:14 PM, Jody wrote:
Bill,
Funny and stupid story, I set mine up with a VFD with fwd/rev,
potentiometer, jog, and E stop.
I tested the E stop and was nevous that the thing would spin off.? I
actually need to make the stop not quite as harsh.? But it didn't
fling off the spindle thankfully.
-Jody
|
I'm not making one, I'm repairing an old one that was really good equipment once upon a time. Will be again. I have one of the asian rolling centers. It's not bad. It just isn't good. I'm thinking I can remake the center, and make it take interchangeable tips if I really want to. If I can salvage the original bearing, all well and good. If not, it will still be cheaper than I could buy a new one of the same quality. I've got 3' of 3/4" drill rod laying about here somewhere, and a pound of Cherry Red. If I make it soft, I'm pretty sure I can harden afterwards.
Bill in OKC
On Sunday, January 6, 2019, 10:06:43 AM CST, Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...> wrote:
Bill If you make a live center don't use soft steel make it form tool steel, the center part needs to be hardened. Now if you figure the cost of the steel and bearing you can save if you buy a live center on e-bay they are as low as $ 15.00 I have one no complaints so far GP -------------------------------------------- On Sun, 1/6/19, Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io <wmrmeyers@...> wrote: Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live center To: [email protected] Date: Sunday, January 6, 2019, 10:59 AM Does yours have the MT2 or MT3 shank? I see they made them up to MT5, mine is MT2. I've got some scraps of metal here I could make into a 2-piece collar, for that matter. Spent way too much money getting my wife set up to heal after her shoulder surgery late in October, and I'm officially done spending money on my new SB lathe until she says otherwise. ;) Gotta admit I milked it pretty good while I could. I'll hope the bearing can be cleaned out. Seems Amazon wants about $41 for the cheap one, and up like a skyrocket from there. I'll have to call Fleck Bearing, our local bearing shop, and see what they want. Thanks a bunch for the info! I was trying to find it about a week ago, and not having any luck. Was gonna take a hack at it sometime this week and hope I didn't butcher it. I'll probably take it to work and put a little Mobile Polyrex EM in it. Thin, as greases go, very water & heat resistant. It's what is specified for all the monster motors on our mat machine, which has that 60hp motor I think I've mentioned here. Among 11 or 12 others, ranging down to 1.5hp. Thanks again! Bill in OKC On Sunday, January 6, 2019, 8:52:22 AM CST, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote: Hi Bill,Here we go.It's not real obvious how to take these guys apart as you may have noticed! I drilled and tapped two 10-32 holes in the front cover plate and used a slide hammer to pull it out, not necessary as that didn't really help in the end and I had to make a new replacement! Anyway, the od of the point on mine is around .740. Put a 3/4" shaft collar on it leaving a gap between that and the body and use 2 screwdrivers/ pry bars, whatever to extract the tip.The shank is separate, use maybe a 1/2" diameter pin to push that out. I used my 10 ton Dake screw press, it's on a taper so when it pops, it's out. Put a box of rags or something under it so it doesn't get damaged.Then flip it over and use something around 5/8" diameter to press out the bearing along with the front cover. Easy! It uses a double row angular contact bearing, 3202 I believe. I was able to remove the cages intact for a good cleaning.Old hardened grease was the problem. Looks almost new and runs like new.?Polish everything up and put it back together. I first used NLGI #2, had to do it again, too much drag so I switched to a Lithium #1. Shell Gadus S3 V220C1 to be exact, couple dollars at McMaster. I love that place and they're about 2 miles from my house! Don't use white lithium and don't over pack. My youngest son was USAF, now he's Air National Guard and a high school "industrial technology" teacher, AKA machine shop.? Hope this helps. Dave On January 5, 2019 at 7:21 PM "Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io" <wmrmeyers@...> wrote: I may have something at work I can borrow, if necessary. I've made some small parts for them, so my boss is good about loaniong tools. Get yourself settled, and take your time. I retired from the USAF over 20 years ago, but still remember being jetlagged after getting home from some long trips. Bill in OKC -------------------------------------------- On Sat, 1/5/19, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote: Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live center To: [email protected] Date: Saturday, January 5, 2019, 6:40 PM Hi Bill, I have more pics and can tell you the first try way and the easy way to get it apart! Just got home from Iceland yesterday but I'll try to do something tomorrow.? Mine is nice and smooth now and runs out less than .0002". You're going to have to invest in a 3/4" 2 piece shaft collar though, 1 piece clamp on could work as well. Set screw collars are garbage. Dave Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device -------- Original message --------From: "Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io" <wmrmeyers@...> Date: 1/5/19 18:16 (GMT-06:00) To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live center Dave,I only see one pic, and I'm VERY interested because I got one with my SB 10L lathe, and mine is more than "a little crunchy." Poor baby spent some years in an open barn. More photos would be welcome. More info on how you got it apart, too. Mine spent a few days soaking in evaporust after a day in purple power degreaser. Still real crunchy. I have a small arbor press in the home shop, and a 20-ton HF hydraulic press available at work. Looks like I'll need a new bearing, from your photo.? Thanks for a really timely post! Bill in OKC On Sat, Jan 5, 2019 at 5:50 PM, Dave Matticks<dpm100@...> wrote: Hi guys,? I have a Royal Products , Regal live center that either came with or was purchased along with my dad's lathe. Whatever, first one I ever used.? Recently rebuilt it. Nothing wrong except for the crunchy bearings due to dried up? grease.? Couple pics of the process.? Dave
|
Mine's #2 so everything should apply. Bearing prices are really all over the place! McMaster has the 3202 for $41.63, Motion Industries probably want double and you need to bend over to take delivery. On mine there are 2 separate cages, one for each row that popped out easy to allow for a good cleaning. I greased it up before putting them back in place. The Mobil Polyrex should be perfect. Good luck, Dave
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On January 6, 2019 at 9:59 AM "Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io" <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:
?
Does yours have the MT2 or MT3 shank? I see they made them up to MT5, mine is MT2. I've got some scraps of metal here I could make into a 2-piece collar, for that matter. Spent way too much money getting my wife set up to heal after her shoulder surgery late in October, and I'm officially done spending money on my new SB lathe until she says otherwise. ;) Gotta admit I milked it pretty good while I could. I'll hope the bearing can be cleaned out. Seems Amazon wants about $41 for the cheap one, and up like a skyrocket from there. I'll have to call Fleck Bearing, our local bearing shop, and see what they want.
Thanks a bunch for the info! I was trying to find it about a week ago, and not having any luck. Was gonna take a hack at it sometime this week and hope I didn't butcher it. I'll probably take it to work and put a little Mobile Polyrex EM in it. Thin, as greases go, very water & heat resistant. It's what is specified for all the monster motors on our mat machine, which has that 60hp motor I think I've mentioned here. Among 11 or 12 others, ranging down to 1.5hp.
Thanks again!
Bill in OKC
On Sunday, January 6, 2019, 8:52:22 AM CST, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:
Hi Bill, Here we go. It's not real obvious how to take these guys apart as you may have noticed!
I drilled and tapped two 10-32 holes in the front cover plate and used a slide hammer to pull it out, not necessary as that didn't really help in the end and I had to make a new replacement!
Anyway, the od of the point on mine is around .740. Put a 3/4" shaft collar on it leaving a gap between that and the body and use 2 screwdrivers/ pry bars, whatever to extract the tip. The shank is separate, use maybe a 1/2" diameter pin to push that out. I used my 10 ton Dake screw press, it's on a taper so when it pops, it's out. Put a box of rags or something under it so it doesn't get damaged. Then flip it over and use something around 5/8" diameter to press out the bearing along with the front cover. Easy!
It uses a double row angular contact bearing, 3202 I believe. I was able to remove the cages intact for a good cleaning. Old hardened grease was the problem. Looks almost new and runs like new. ? Polish everything up and put it back together. I first used NLGI #2, had to do it again, too much drag so I switched to a Lithium #1. Shell Gadus S3 V220C1 to be exact, couple dollars at McMaster. I love that place and they're about 2 miles from my house! Don't use white lithium and don't over pack.
My youngest son was USAF, now he's Air National Guard and a high school "industrial technology" teacher, AKA machine shop.?
Hope this helps.
Dave
On January 5, 2019 at 7:21 PM "Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io" <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:
I may have something at work I can borrow, if necessary. I've made some small parts for them, so my boss is good about loaniong tools. Get yourself settled, and take your time. I retired from the USAF over 20 years ago, but still remember being jetlagged after getting home from some long trips.
Bill in OKC
--------------------------------------------
On Sat, 1/5/19, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live center
To: [email protected]
Date: Saturday, January 5, 2019, 6:40 PM
Hi
Bill, I have more pics and can tell you the first
try way and the easy way to get it apart! Just
got home from Iceland yesterday but I'll try to do
something tomorrow.? Mine is nice and smooth now
and runs out less than .0002". You're
going to have to invest in a 3/4" 2 piece shaft collar
though, 1 piece clamp on could work as well. Set screw
collars are garbage. Dave
Sent from
my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
-------- Original
message --------From: "Bill in OKC too via
Groups.Io" <wmrmeyers@...>
Date: 1/5/19 18:16 (GMT-06:00) To:
[email protected] Subject: Re:
[atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live center
Dave,I
only see one pic, and I'm VERY interested because I got
one with my SB 10L lathe, and mine is more than "a
little crunchy." Poor baby spent some years in an open
barn. More photos would be welcome. More info on how you got
it apart, too. Mine spent a few days soaking in evaporust
after a day in purple power degreaser. Still real crunchy. I
have a small arbor press in the home shop, and a 20-ton HF
hydraulic press available at work. Looks like I'll need
a new bearing, from your photo.?
Thanks for a really timely
post!
Bill
in OKC
On Sat, Jan 5, 2019 at 5:50 PM, Dave
Matticks<dpm100@...> wrote:
Hi guys,?
I have a Royal
Products , Regal live center that either came with or was
purchased along with my dad's lathe. Whatever, first one
I ever used.?
Recently rebuilt it. Nothing
wrong except for the crunchy bearings due to dried up?
grease.?
Couple pics of the process.?
Dave
|
Re: Finally workbench for my lathe
Carvel:
You don't see any possibility of an over-current condition burning up the VFD? If that is a 1Hp motor and it is put under a heavy load the electrical demand in Watts (or joules if you want to get that deep) will still be there but the 3/4 Hp rated VFD will not be able to deliver so the current will increase.? No?
Raymond
|
Re: Finally workbench for my lathe
Since we are talking about my new workbench/tool cabinet I am ready to add a to my Craftsman 12x36 lathe.
I have one on my saw and it works great!
and for $132.49 much cheaper than going 3ph!
Ralph
On Sun, Jan 6, 2019 at 10:47 AM Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io <wmrmeyers= [email protected]> wrote:
It wasn't the Atlas I was talking about there, but its new companion, a South Bend Heavy 10L toolroom lathe. Also known as a gunsmith's lathe. I can see it needing a heavier motor. Uses 5C collets rather than the 3C's Atlas uses. 1-3/8" spindle through hole. Once I? have that running, and with a 3 phase motor & VFD, I may look again at doing it to the Atlas. It has a 1/2hp 1ph motor, IIRC, and it doesn't need to be any heavier, but variable speed would sure be nice. It's a 10F.
All is now clear to me, too! ;)
Bill in OKC
On Sunday, January 6, 2019, 8:42:12 AM CST, cwlathes < carvelw@...> wrote:
Hi Bill, ? That is very curious .
My post war Atlas catalogue lists only 1/3 and ? HP motors ( single and 3 phase ) for the 10¡± lathe ( see below )
I wonder how that came about ¨C maybe one of our more knowledgeable historians can assist :>)
With regard to the VFD , my understanding is that a smaller VFD can drive a larger motor provided the current limit of the VFD is not exceeded, and a larger VFD can drive a smaller motor provided the current limit of the motor is not exceeded ¨C but I speak under correction , ? Keep well, ? Carvel ?
? From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io
Sent: 06 January 2019 10:55 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Finally workbench for my lathe ? Don't know about that. The serial number card says it was shipped with a 3/4hp 1ph 1725 rpm motor. And a 3/4hp VFD might not be able to turn a motor rated for 2hp at all. And the motor is physically large enough it could be a 3HP motor. I don't know a lot about 3phase motors, but I work with them, so have been reading up on them. My equipment that I work on has quite a variety of motors, many 3 phase, and rated from 1/4HP to 60HP. I've still got a lot of parts to derust, paint, and put back together, so I'm not in a great hurry at the moment. Get down to the last couple of parts, it will get more urgent, though, I do suspect! ;) On Sunday, January 6, 2019, 1:48:59 AM CST, cwlathes <carvelw@...> wrote: Morning Bill,
The VFD doesn¡¯t HAVE to be matched to the motor power wise , as long as it can deliver enough power for your needs . . . .
In other words , if you happened to come across a VFD capable of driving a ? HP motor , and your mystery motor was rated at 1HP , all it would mean is that you would be limited to drawing ? of its capacity which would probably be more than adequate given that the original motors for this lathe were 1/3 or ? HP ? Regards, ? Carvel ? From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io
Sent: 06 January 2019 06:06 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Finally workbench for my lathe ? I'm thinking a 3/4hp 3ph motor and VFD for mine, as my 10L originally shipped with a 1725rpm 3/4hp 1ph motor. Everything I've read or heard about the Teco VFD's seem to indicate they're the smart move. Haven't had much luck finding anything for less than about $3-400 for the combination, plus shipping.? The lathe came with a 3ph motor without a data plate. Old but not quite as rusty as the rest of the lathe. I have a contact tachometer so could find out what speed it is, but I'd have to take it to work to get power to test it. Did borrow their megger, no leakage or shorts at 1kv. If I knew what hp it's rated for I could just buy the VFD. I have 220vac power in the shop at one location, could extend it. Or move the lathe to it.? I gave up on my HF tool chest as a stand for my Atlas TH42. It is just a bit too long, and also too wide for the "42 inch" tool box. That is 42 inches including the handle. 40 inches long x 18 inches deep, about a 3/4"lip on back and sides. I got it just before they came out with the 22" deep tool chests, of course. So it's going to be a tool chest. With tools in it. Imagine that! :) The table is one I've mentioned here before. It's 3' x 8', 1/8" steel top, now with 1" of Baltic birch plywood on top of the steel. I need to get the drip pan I told you about from under the Atlas MF Mill and put it under the Atlas lathe. I have a new 2' x 3' drip pan for the mill, and another for the Lewis shaper. I've been planning on putting that on the table with the lathe and mill, but I'm wondering if that is such a good idea. I've only run the shaper once, and promptly took it back off the heavy steel file cabinet I'd mounted it on. Lots of momentum there as the ram moves back and forth. Probably do bad things to the fine finish on a part turned while it was running. :) ? ? On Fri, Jan 4, 2019 at 11:39 PM, Jody So the motor is a Baldor 3 phase 1/2 hp. I picked it up new on ebay for real cheap. It was a steal of a deal and made it much easier to justify the conversion. The original motor was likely going to require a re-wire and rebuild. I have a Teco 1/2 hp size VFD.? I've been real happy with it and the technical support was very helpful with a direct line to technicians.? I called them a few times with wiring and programing questions...and they were very helpful.??
-------- Original message --------
From: mike allen <animal@...>
Date: 1/4/19 10:14 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Finally workbench for my lathe
any more info on yer motor & controller ?
??? ??? animal
On 1/4/2019 1:14 PM, Jody wrote:
Bill,
Funny and stupid story, I set mine up with a VFD with fwd/rev,
potentiometer, jog, and E stop.
I tested the E stop and was nevous that the thing would spin off.? I
actually need to make the stop not quite as harsh.? But it didn't
fling off the spindle thankfully.
-Jody
|
Bill If you make a live center don't use soft steel make it form tool steel, the center part needs to be hardened. Now if you figure the cost of the steel and bearing you can save if you buy a live center on e-bay they are as low as $ 15.00 I have one no complaints so far GP -------------------------------------------- On Sun, 1/6/19, Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io <wmrmeyers@...> wrote: Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live center To: [email protected] Date: Sunday, January 6, 2019, 10:59 AM Does yours have the MT2 or MT3 shank? I see they made them up to MT5, mine is MT2. I've got some scraps of metal here I could make into a 2-piece collar, for that matter. Spent way too much money getting my wife set up to heal after her shoulder surgery late in October, and I'm officially done spending money on my new SB lathe until she says otherwise. ;) Gotta admit I milked it pretty good while I could. I'll hope the bearing can be cleaned out. Seems Amazon wants about $41 for the cheap one, and up like a skyrocket from there. I'll have to call Fleck Bearing, our local bearing shop, and see what they want. Thanks a bunch for the info! I was trying to find it about a week ago, and not having any luck. Was gonna take a hack at it sometime this week and hope I didn't butcher it. I'll probably take it to work and put a little Mobile Polyrex EM in it. Thin, as greases go, very water & heat resistant. It's what is specified for all the monster motors on our mat machine, which has that 60hp motor I think I've mentioned here. Among 11 or 12 others, ranging down to 1.5hp. Thanks again! Bill in OKC On Sunday, January 6, 2019, 8:52:22 AM CST, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote: Hi Bill,Here we go.It's not real obvious how to take these guys apart as you may have noticed! I drilled and tapped two 10-32 holes in the front cover plate and used a slide hammer to pull it out, not necessary as that didn't really help in the end and I had to make a new replacement! Anyway, the od of the point on mine is around .740. Put a 3/4" shaft collar on it leaving a gap between that and the body and use 2 screwdrivers/ pry bars, whatever to extract the tip.The shank is separate, use maybe a 1/2" diameter pin to push that out. I used my 10 ton Dake screw press, it's on a taper so when it pops, it's out. Put a box of rags or something under it so it doesn't get damaged.Then flip it over and use something around 5/8" diameter to press out the bearing along with the front cover. Easy! It uses a double row angular contact bearing, 3202 I believe. I was able to remove the cages intact for a good cleaning.Old hardened grease was the problem. Looks almost new and runs like new.?Polish everything up and put it back together. I first used NLGI #2, had to do it again, too much drag so I switched to a Lithium #1. Shell Gadus S3 V220C1 to be exact, couple dollars at McMaster. I love that place and they're about 2 miles from my house! Don't use white lithium and don't over pack. My youngest son was USAF, now he's Air National Guard and a high school "industrial technology" teacher, AKA machine shop.? Hope this helps. Dave On January 5, 2019 at 7:21 PM "Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io" <wmrmeyers@...> wrote: I may have something at work I can borrow, if necessary. I've made some small parts for them, so my boss is good about loaniong tools. Get yourself settled, and take your time. I retired from the USAF over 20 years ago, but still remember being jetlagged after getting home from some long trips. Bill in OKC -------------------------------------------- On Sat, 1/5/19, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote: Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live center To: [email protected] Date: Saturday, January 5, 2019, 6:40 PM Hi Bill, I have more pics and can tell you the first try way and the easy way to get it apart! Just got home from Iceland yesterday but I'll try to do something tomorrow.? Mine is nice and smooth now and runs out less than .0002". You're going to have to invest in a 3/4" 2 piece shaft collar though, 1 piece clamp on could work as well. Set screw collars are garbage. Dave Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device -------- Original message --------From: "Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io" <wmrmeyers@...> Date: 1/5/19 18:16 (GMT-06:00) To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live center Dave,I only see one pic, and I'm VERY interested because I got one with my SB 10L lathe, and mine is more than "a little crunchy." Poor baby spent some years in an open barn. More photos would be welcome. More info on how you got it apart, too. Mine spent a few days soaking in evaporust after a day in purple power degreaser. Still real crunchy. I have a small arbor press in the home shop, and a 20-ton HF hydraulic press available at work. Looks like I'll need a new bearing, from your photo.? Thanks for a really timely post! Bill in OKC On Sat, Jan 5, 2019 at 5:50 PM, Dave Matticks<dpm100@...> wrote: Hi guys,? I have a Royal Products , Regal live center that either came with or was purchased along with my dad's lathe. Whatever, first one I ever used.? Recently rebuilt it. Nothing wrong except for the crunchy bearings due to dried up? grease.? Couple pics of the process.? Dave
|
Had a dryer that my employer uses, from (of all people) American Dryer Corporation, that had Chinese bearings in. Replacements from the manufacturer were $270 each, needed two. Found SKF, IIRC, bearings at Fleck for $58 each. Made in Japan. I'm just old enough to remember when Made in Japan meant probably not real good, but that was a while back. After Dr. Deming got through with them, they were starting to beat the pants off of us on a lot of high quality goods.
Bill in OKC
On Sunday, January 6, 2019, 9:40:54 AM CST, Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...> wrote:
I am firm believer to buy Original American made replacement parts. I did find that the American brand bearings are made in china as well so how can you change that. I bean buying bearings from VXB Bearings on line, so far I have no complaints with them and yes they are china made.
Mercedes makes all there crank shafts in china, I saw a video that plant is so clean one can eat of the floor so now the oldest car maker in the world making there main part of there engines in china there is something wrong with the process
GP
--------------------------------------------
On Sun, 1/6/19, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote: Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live center To: [email protected] Date: Sunday, January 6, 2019, 10:27 AM I used the same bearing, good clean up and new grease did the trick.A good new bearing isn't real cheap. McMaster has them around $40.00 for the 3202 open bearing, Chinese are cheaper but......I have a Czech made center that's ok but wanted to use the original!DaveOn January 6, 2019 at 9:19 AM Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...> wrote: Nice job Dave Looks like new again. Did you make sure you have the proper bearing a pressure bearing ? How much was the bearing. I have a live center I made years ago need to replace bearing on it GP apart as you may have noticed! I drilled and tapped two 10-32 holes in the front cover plate and used a slide hammer to pull it out, not necessary as that didn't really help in the end and I had to make a new replacement! Anyway, the od of the point on mine is around .740. Put a 3/4" shaft collar on it leaving a gap between that and the body and use 2 screwdrivers/ pry bars, whatever to extract the tip.The shank is separate, use maybe a 1/2" diameter pin to push that out. I used my 10 ton Dake screw press, it's on a taper so when it pops, it's out. Put a box of rags or something under it so it doesn't get damaged.Then flip it over and use something around 5/8" diameter to press out the bearing along with the front cover. Easy! It uses a double row angular contact bearing, 3202 I believe. I was able to remove the cages intact for a good cleaning.Old hardened grease was the problem. Looks almost new and runs like new.?Polish everything up and put it back together. I first used NLGI #2, had to do it again, too much drag so I switched to a Lithium #1. Shell Gadus S3 V220C1 to be exact, couple dollars at McMaster. I love that place and they're about 2 miles from my house! Don't use white lithium and don't over pack. My youngest son was USAF, now he's Air National Guard and a high school "industrial technology" teacher, AKA machine shop.? Hope this helps. Dave On January 5, 2019 at 7:21 PM "Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io" <wmrmeyers@...> wrote: I may have something at work I can borrow, if necessary. I've made some small parts for them, so my boss is good about loaniong tools. Get yourself settled, and take your time. I retired from the USAF over 20 years ago, but still remember being jetlagged after getting home from some long trips. Bill in OKC -------------------------------------------- On Sat, 1/5/19, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote: Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live center To: [email protected] Date: Saturday, January 5, 2019, 6:40 PM Hi Bill, I have more pics and can tell you the first try way and the easy way to get it apart! Just got home from Iceland yesterday but I'll try to do something tomorrow.? Mine is nice and smooth now and runs out less than .0002". You're going to have to invest in a 3/4" 2 piece shaft collar though, 1 piece clamp on could work as well. Set screw collars are garbage. Dave Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device -------- Original message --------From: "Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io" <wmrmeyers@...> Date: 1/5/19 18:16 (GMT-06:00) To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live center Dave,I only see one pic, and I'm VERY interested because I got one with my SB 10L lathe, and mine is more than "a little crunchy." Poor baby spent some years in an open barn. More photos would be welcome. More info on how you got it apart, too. Mine spent a few days soaking in evaporust after a day in purple power degreaser. Still real crunchy. I have a small arbor press in the home shop, and a 20-ton HF hydraulic press available at work. Looks like I'll need a new bearing, from your photo.? Thanks for a really timely post! Bill in OKC On Sat, Jan 5, 2019 at 5:50 PM, Dave Matticks<dpm100@...> wrote: Hi guys,? I have a Royal Products , Regal live center that either came with or was purchased along with my dad's lathe. Whatever, first one I ever used.? Recently rebuilt it. Nothing wrong except for the crunchy bearings due to dried up? grease.? Couple pics of the process.? Dave
|
Does yours have the MT2 or MT3 shank? I see they made them up to MT5, mine is MT2. I've got some scraps of metal here I could make into a 2-piece collar, for that matter. Spent way too much money getting my wife set up to heal after her shoulder surgery late in October, and I'm officially done spending money on my new SB lathe until she says otherwise. ;) Gotta admit I milked it pretty good while I could. I'll hope the bearing can be cleaned out. Seems Amazon wants about $41 for the cheap one, and up like a skyrocket from there. I'll have to call Fleck Bearing, our local bearing shop, and see what they want.
Thanks a bunch for the info! I was trying to find it about a week ago, and not having any luck. Was gonna take a hack at it sometime this week and hope I didn't butcher it. I'll probably take it to work and put a little Mobile Polyrex EM in it. Thin, as greases go, very water & heat resistant. It's what is specified for all the monster motors on our mat machine, which has that 60hp motor I think I've mentioned here. Among 11 or 12 others, ranging down to 1.5hp.
Thanks again!
Bill in OKC
On Sunday, January 6, 2019, 8:52:22 AM CST, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:
Hi Bill, Here we go. It's not real obvious how to take these guys apart as you may have noticed!
I drilled and tapped two 10-32 holes in the front cover plate and used a slide hammer to pull it out, not necessary as that didn't really help in the end and I had to make a new replacement!
Anyway, the od of the point on mine is around .740. Put a 3/4" shaft collar on it leaving a gap between that and the body and use 2 screwdrivers/ pry bars, whatever to extract the tip. The shank is separate, use maybe a 1/2" diameter pin to push that out. I used my 10 ton Dake screw press, it's on a taper so when it pops, it's out. Put a box of rags or something under it so it doesn't get damaged. Then flip it over and use something around 5/8" diameter to press out the bearing along with the front cover. Easy!
It uses a double row angular contact bearing, 3202 I believe. I was able to remove the cages intact for a good cleaning. Old hardened grease was the problem. Looks almost new and runs like new. ? Polish everything up and put it back together. I first used NLGI #2, had to do it again, too much drag so I switched to a Lithium #1. Shell Gadus S3 V220C1 to be exact, couple dollars at McMaster. I love that place and they're about 2 miles from my house! Don't use white lithium and don't over pack.
My youngest son was USAF, now he's Air National Guard and a high school "industrial technology" teacher, AKA machine shop.?
Hope this helps.
Dave
On January 5, 2019 at 7:21 PM "Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io" <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:
I may have something at work I can borrow, if necessary. I've made some small parts for them, so my boss is good about loaniong tools. Get yourself settled, and take your time. I retired from the USAF over 20 years ago, but still remember being jetlagged after getting home from some long trips.
Bill in OKC
--------------------------------------------
On Sat, 1/5/19, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live center
To: [email protected]
Date: Saturday, January 5, 2019, 6:40 PM
Hi
Bill, I have more pics and can tell you the first
try way and the easy way to get it apart! Just
got home from Iceland yesterday but I'll try to do
something tomorrow.? Mine is nice and smooth now
and runs out less than .0002". You're
going to have to invest in a 3/4" 2 piece shaft collar
though, 1 piece clamp on could work as well. Set screw
collars are garbage. Dave
Sent from
my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
-------- Original
message --------From: "Bill in OKC too via
Groups.Io" <wmrmeyers@...>
Date: 1/5/19 18:16 (GMT-06:00) To:
[email protected] Subject: Re:
[atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live center
Dave,I
only see one pic, and I'm VERY interested because I got
one with my SB 10L lathe, and mine is more than "a
little crunchy." Poor baby spent some years in an open
barn. More photos would be welcome. More info on how you got
it apart, too. Mine spent a few days soaking in evaporust
after a day in purple power degreaser. Still real crunchy. I
have a small arbor press in the home shop, and a 20-ton HF
hydraulic press available at work. Looks like I'll need
a new bearing, from your photo.?
Thanks for a really timely
post!
Bill
in OKC
On Sat, Jan 5, 2019 at 5:50 PM, Dave
Matticks<dpm100@...> wrote:
Hi guys,?
I have a Royal
Products , Regal live center that either came with or was
purchased along with my dad's lathe. Whatever, first one
I ever used.?
Recently rebuilt it. Nothing
wrong except for the crunchy bearings due to dried up?
grease.?
Couple pics of the process.?
Dave
|
Re: Finally workbench for my lathe
It wasn't the Atlas I was talking about there, but its new companion, a South Bend Heavy 10L toolroom lathe. Also known as a gunsmith's lathe. I can see it needing a heavier motor. Uses 5C collets rather than the 3C's Atlas uses. 1-3/8" spindle through hole. Once I? have that running, and with a 3 phase motor & VFD, I may look again at doing it to the Atlas. It has a 1/2hp 1ph motor, IIRC, and it doesn't need to be any heavier, but variable speed would sure be nice. It's a 10F.
All is now clear to me, too! ;)
Bill in OKC
On Sunday, January 6, 2019, 8:42:12 AM CST, cwlathes <carvelw@...> wrote:
Hi Bill, ? That is very curious .
My post war Atlas catalogue lists only 1/3 and ? HP motors ( single and 3 phase ) for the 10¡± lathe ( see below )
I wonder how that came about ¨C maybe one of our more knowledgeable historians can assist :>)
With regard to the VFD , my understanding is that a smaller VFD can drive a larger motor provided the current limit of the VFD is not exceeded, and a larger VFD can drive a smaller motor provided the current limit of the motor is not exceeded ¨C but I speak under correction , ? Keep well, ? Carvel ?
?
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io
Sent: 06 January 2019 10:55 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Finally workbench for my lathe ? Don't know about that. The serial number card says it was shipped with a 3/4hp 1ph 1725 rpm motor. And a 3/4hp VFD might not be able to turn a motor rated for 2hp at all. And the motor is physically large enough it could be a 3HP motor. I don't know a lot about 3phase motors, but I work with them, so have been reading up on them. My equipment that I work on has quite a variety of motors, many 3 phase, and rated from 1/4HP to 60HP. I've still got a lot of parts to derust, paint, and put back together, so I'm not in a great hurry at the moment. Get down to the last couple of parts, it will get more urgent, though, I do suspect! ;) On Sunday, January 6, 2019, 1:48:59 AM CST, cwlathes <carvelw@...> wrote: Morning Bill,
The VFD doesn¡¯t HAVE to be matched to the motor power wise , as long as it can deliver enough power for your needs . . . .
In other words , if you happened to come across a VFD capable of driving a ? HP motor , and your mystery motor was rated at 1HP , all it would mean is that you would be limited to drawing ? of its capacity which would probably be more than adequate given that the original motors for this lathe were 1/3 or ? HP ? Regards, ? Carvel ? From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io
Sent: 06 January 2019 06:06 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Finally workbench for my lathe ? I'm thinking a 3/4hp 3ph motor and VFD for mine, as my 10L originally shipped with a 1725rpm 3/4hp 1ph motor. Everything I've read or heard about the Teco VFD's seem to indicate they're the smart move. Haven't had much luck finding anything for less than about $3-400 for the combination, plus shipping.? The lathe came with a 3ph motor without a data plate. Old but not quite as rusty as the rest of the lathe. I have a contact tachometer so could find out what speed it is, but I'd have to take it to work to get power to test it. Did borrow their megger, no leakage or shorts at 1kv. If I knew what hp it's rated for I could just buy the VFD. I have 220vac power in the shop at one location, could extend it. Or move the lathe to it.? I gave up on my HF tool chest as a stand for my Atlas TH42. It is just a bit too long, and also too wide for the "42 inch" tool box. That is 42 inches including the handle. 40 inches long x 18 inches deep, about a 3/4"lip on back and sides. I got it just before they came out with the 22" deep tool chests, of course. So it's going to be a tool chest. With tools in it. Imagine that! :) The table is one I've mentioned here before. It's 3' x 8', 1/8" steel top, now with 1" of Baltic birch plywood on top of the steel. I need to get the drip pan I told you about from under the Atlas MF Mill and put it under the Atlas lathe. I have a new 2' x 3' drip pan for the mill, and another for the Lewis shaper. I've been planning on putting that on the table with the lathe and mill, but I'm wondering if that is such a good idea. I've only run the shaper once, and promptly took it back off the heavy steel file cabinet I'd mounted it on. Lots of momentum there as the ram moves back and forth. Probably do bad things to the fine finish on a part turned while it was running. :) ? ? On Fri, Jan 4, 2019 at 11:39 PM, Jody So the motor is a Baldor 3 phase 1/2 hp. I picked it up new on ebay for real cheap. It was a steal of a deal and made it much easier to justify the conversion. The original motor was likely going to require a re-wire and rebuild. I have a Teco 1/2 hp size VFD.? I've been real happy with it and the technical support was very helpful with a direct line to technicians.? I called them a few times with wiring and programing questions...and they were very helpful.??
-------- Original message --------
From: mike allen <animal@...>
Date: 1/4/19 10:14 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Finally workbench for my lathe
any more info on yer motor & controller ?
??? ??? animal
On 1/4/2019 1:14 PM, Jody wrote:
Bill,
Funny and stupid story, I set mine up with a VFD with fwd/rev,
potentiometer, jog, and E stop.
I tested the E stop and was nevous that the thing would spin off.? I
actually need to make the stop not quite as harsh.? But it didn't
fling off the spindle thankfully.
-Jody
|
I am firm believer to buy Original American made replacement parts. I did find that the American brand bearings are made in china as well so how can you change that. I bean buying bearings from VXB Bearings on line, so far I have no complaints with them and yes they are china made.
Mercedes makes all there crank shafts in china, I saw a video that plant is so clean one can eat of the floor so now the oldest car maker in the world making there main part of there engines in china there is something wrong with the process
GP
--------------------------------------------
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On Sun, 1/6/19, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote: Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live center To: [email protected] Date: Sunday, January 6, 2019, 10:27 AM I used the same bearing, good clean up and new grease did the trick.A good new bearing isn't real cheap. McMaster has them around $40.00 for the 3202 open bearing, Chinese are cheaper but......I have a Czech made center that's ok but wanted to use the original!DaveOn January 6, 2019 at 9:19 AM Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...> wrote: Nice job Dave Looks like new again. Did you make sure you have the proper bearing a pressure bearing ? How much was the bearing. I have a live center I made years ago need to replace bearing on it GP apart as you may have noticed! I drilled and tapped two 10-32 holes in the front cover plate and used a slide hammer to pull it out, not necessary as that didn't really help in the end and I had to make a new replacement! Anyway, the od of the point on mine is around .740. Put a 3/4" shaft collar on it leaving a gap between that and the body and use 2 screwdrivers/ pry bars, whatever to extract the tip.The shank is separate, use maybe a 1/2" diameter pin to push that out. I used my 10 ton Dake screw press, it's on a taper so when it pops, it's out. Put a box of rags or something under it so it doesn't get damaged.Then flip it over and use something around 5/8" diameter to press out the bearing along with the front cover. Easy! It uses a double row angular contact bearing, 3202 I believe. I was able to remove the cages intact for a good cleaning.Old hardened grease was the problem. Looks almost new and runs like new.?Polish everything up and put it back together. I first used NLGI #2, had to do it again, too much drag so I switched to a Lithium #1. Shell Gadus S3 V220C1 to be exact, couple dollars at McMaster. I love that place and they're about 2 miles from my house! Don't use white lithium and don't over pack. My youngest son was USAF, now he's Air National Guard and a high school "industrial technology" teacher, AKA machine shop.? Hope this helps. Dave On January 5, 2019 at 7:21 PM "Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io" <wmrmeyers@...> wrote: I may have something at work I can borrow, if necessary. I've made some small parts for them, so my boss is good about loaniong tools. Get yourself settled, and take your time. I retired from the USAF over 20 years ago, but still remember being jetlagged after getting home from some long trips. Bill in OKC -------------------------------------------- On Sat, 1/5/19, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote: Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live center To: [email protected] Date: Saturday, January 5, 2019, 6:40 PM Hi Bill, I have more pics and can tell you the first try way and the easy way to get it apart! Just got home from Iceland yesterday but I'll try to do something tomorrow.? Mine is nice and smooth now and runs out less than .0002". You're going to have to invest in a 3/4" 2 piece shaft collar though, 1 piece clamp on could work as well. Set screw collars are garbage. Dave Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device -------- Original message --------From: "Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io" <wmrmeyers@...> Date: 1/5/19 18:16 (GMT-06:00) To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Royal live center Dave,I only see one pic, and I'm VERY interested because I got one with my SB 10L lathe, and mine is more than "a little crunchy." Poor baby spent some years in an open barn. More photos would be welcome. More info on how you got it apart, too. Mine spent a few days soaking in evaporust after a day in purple power degreaser. Still real crunchy. I have a small arbor press in the home shop, and a 20-ton HF hydraulic press available at work. Looks like I'll need a new bearing, from your photo.? Thanks for a really timely post! Bill in OKC On Sat, Jan 5, 2019 at 5:50 PM, Dave Matticks<dpm100@...> wrote: Hi guys,? I have a Royal Products , Regal live center that either came with or was purchased along with my dad's lathe. Whatever, first one I ever used.? Recently rebuilt it. Nothing wrong except for the crunchy bearings due to dried up? grease.? Couple pics of the process.? Dave
|
Bill in OKC too