开云体育

Pair of Dahlquist DQ-1W subwoofers for sale. Excellent functional condition. Woofers, grills & badges in perfect condition. Cabinets cosmetically pleasant with some limited wear & tiny chips on some corners. SNs: 4250 & 4794. Buyer pays all fees, etc.,etc. Location: Knoxville, TN Asking $700 USD for the pair. PM me if you’re interested.

Looking for Manual and/or schematic for Dahlquist DQ-MX1 Crossover. Any thoughts on recapping this would be appreciated. Posted earlier questions here in Jan #6058, but no response. Thanks

Has anyone noticed that a lot of people just don’t seem to get it about Dahlquists? Particularly the ones beyond the 10’s and sexier ones. People just don’t seem to understand what they are or how they could dethrone some of the other usual suspects. For example, I picked up for free an old set of Boston Acoustics A150’s. (See waiting on the side in this pic, from when I was trying them out head to head with my m907’s yesterday). I posted a thread on Audiokarma and said how I really like them and I was lucky to inherit them for free (though I will want to refoam them at least) but that my m907’s were just better. The two speakers each have 1 inch dome tweeters, the Dahli’s having the VIFA’s, the BA’s having a BA tweeter, the BA’s have s 4.5 inch mid, and the m907’s the 5inch VIFA, and each having 10 inch woofers. The m907’s want more power to get the same decibels out of the same streamed Tidal music I was using. But to me just a one good step above the BA’s. Seems like a few on the AK site just don’t understand how I could say that. Well, there it is. I passed up the BA’s (two way period version) in favor of my DQM-5’s back in the mid 80’s when I bought new for a reason. To me, I liked the balance, imaging, punchy tight bass, of the Dahli’s better. And the BA’s just seemed slightly shrill or harsh in the treble, tweeter range to me. Just my ears. Anyway, do you guys run into that with your audio friends or people you meet or talk to? Not that it really matters as it is not a competition. But just fun to yack about with other appreciators of this brand.

Have a set of DQ-20s Ive been using 4 years. All drivers original and working. Recapped the crossovers with premium caps (except the 5ufs which used cheaper Daytons) and refoamed the woofers the day I got them- nothing to compare them to. Bass, midrange, image all fantastic- but the upper frequencies are flat and I cant imagine what they should be. I pulled on old set of ADS speakers out to sell and when I auditioned them for the guy, realized how much high end Im missing. So a few questions- Did the original Scanspeak D2008 8517 tweeters have ferrofluid? Ive changed old dried out fluid in vintage tweeters before with great effect. I heard there is a mod to remove a 5uf cap to the tweeter like the DQ-20is have- would that be a potential fix? Also considering running a bypass cap on the 3uf to the tweeter. Anyone have experience with the Hiquphon OW1 tweeters or modern Scanspeak D2008 tweeters? If the Scanspeaks, I see 2 models- one with ferrofluid and one without- which would be the correct choice? If the Hiquphons are a major upgrade I dont mind spending the money as these are my everyday speakers. Thanks in advance.

A new poll has been created: I am CONSIDERING ether redesigning or doing a good retrofit of the driver(s) and crossover in the DQ10's. I view this a bit like a tribute band. I am not talking about designing a whole new speaker (there are many great DIY designs already out there) but rather just those changes that would allow for improved sound while still maintaining the original design intent. This is a complex and time consuming project so I would like as many as possible to benefit from it. Note: there is NO intention of making any money on this. The design would be public domain and any mods required would have to be done by the owner or someone hired to do the work. Even if the polls shows interest this should not be construed as a guarantee that I will do this. An EARLY estimate of the cost to self upgrade is $200-$300 if using adequate components. Multiple choices ARE ALLOWED. 1. I am interested in a major redesign that involves replacing one or more drivers and changing the crossover. Largest improvement in sound quality. 2. I want a driver substitution only redesign that does not require much crossover work. Less sound quality improvement 3. I think this idea has little merit. 4. I like the idea and am also willing to help. 5. I have soldering abilities. 6. I have the ability and desire to make acoustic measurements. Vote Now: /g/DahlquistSpeakers/vote?pollid=26367

HI there, I'm having trouble getting a cap and resistor upgrade kit from Regnar. Does anyone out there have a parts list and instructions for cleaning up the sound in my system? Any help would be appreciated. Rick

I've loaded the entire CD onto my PC and wish to run my speakers through the tones to check how they are performing and isolate any drivers not working well (I suspect one Philips driver is intermittent). I am not trained on or possess any calibration or testing equipment - this is listening testing only). Is it as simple as playing each tone and listening? Can anyone break down the tones into buckets associated with each driver so I can focus my attention on that specific driver as they play?

I just purchased my 1st set of DQ-10s. I have serial numbers 000296 and 000298. Speakers are all original and in very good shape except for large drivers need re-foamed. I am trying to find out what speaker I have for right kit. Is there a database or registry that you can lookup this information to find out what components were used in this build and the build date? Thanks!

Recently bought two sets of legs off Amazon for my DQ-10's. One set is 10" tall and the other is 8" tall. The 10" legs are a matte black finish and made of welded steel (see attached photo). I would want to paint them a dark walnut brown to match the rails. The wooden legs are 8" and a lighter brown than the walnut rails (could possibly stain them darker). The steel legs are slimmer with a diameter of just over 1" at the widest part (at mounting plate); the wooden ones are closer to 2" in diameter where they attach to the metal mounting plate. Is there a preferred height? I'm having trouble thinking such a small difference matters. It appears based on the files out here the stands raise the bottom surface 11.4 inches from the floor. FWIW the wife likes the wood ones (they do seem to match the mid-century modern style of the 10's more than the plain steel) so I'd encounter a bit less resistance putting these in any room I choose.

Hi everyone, hope you and your families are well. Need help with Caps on the DQ-MX1 crossover. I know this is not the preferred one but will be enough for how it will be used. I am not a tech and have posted on this forum before regarding the DQ-10 crossover and appreciated the help I got. In all the years I had the 10s, I never got the chance to get the subwoofer. Some years ago, I managed to get the MX1 and 1W but was unable to set anything up. Looking to get my 10s and 1W up for my son. Was thinking this may need to be recapped, but when I had my son take pictures and seeing the differences between this one and another I had sold, I am stuck. The one I sold seems like all original (have picture shown). Now looking at the one I have; I am confused with the differences in values and extra caps. Have not been able to find schematics for this. Can someone tell me what I have here and what I should do? Is this a factory version change or has this been changed/modded? Here are 2 shots of the one I have and 1 of the one I sold. Thanks for reading this and for any advice. Rick