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Evening all. I have been testing the ATU. I can switch on with all Auto Bypass and hold and takes me to Fast Mode as it should. All of my relays are activated as I can see all of the LED's are lit up. So far so good. Then I can switch on with the Bypass and Auto switches held in and go up one relay at a time until all one side of the relays are switched on and then press the Tune switch to switch over from C to L or visa Versa and also walk both sides of the relays off by observing the LEDs. BUT Relay S8 is activated all of the time on my board. As soon as you switch the ATU on S8 Relay switches on. This cannot be correct or Is it correct ?? I am just about to check all of the relays to see if the contacts are actually switching over. Regards David G4RVH
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Tuner only works 15 mtrs and up
5
I've been using this tuner for awhile on all bands. Now it stopped working on 80, 40, and 20 meters, but works on 15 Meters and above. Does not attempt to tune on fore mentioned bands and the display will show no power, no SWR, no tune indication. Running about 6 watts without the amp and about 35 w with the amp. Any suggestions? Harv, WA2AAE
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It's only me again David G4RVH. Before coming away on holiday in the caravan I finished off the ATU-100 pcb. So went to do a quick test by switching on the unit at the exact same time as switching on the Auto and Bypass and Tune buttons which ground the switches. Anyhow it did not activate all of the relays to test that all of the 2N7002 Mosfets were grounding all of the relays to switch them all on at the same time. So thought I would see if anyone can throw some light onto the problem to sort this issue out while I am away. Much appreciate any help. I will of course bell the whole circuit through when I return home. Hoping it's just a quick fix. Regards to all 73s David G4RVH
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ATU-1000, ATU-500
3
I have seen, in both kit and assembled form, a 500 watt and a 1,000 watt version of the ATU-100. Does anyone here have any good experieces with either of these 'higher power' units? I have a Heathkit SB-200 amp that will put 600 watts into an antenna with 100 watts drive, and the ATU-1000 is about HALF the price of an LDG rated to handle the same amount of power. Rich KC8MWG Yahoo Mail: Search, Organize, Conquer
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I recently bought a Chinese ATU100 0A and accidentally deleted its firmware, I tested it with some ATU 100EXT firmware I chose from DD7NC -ATU100 EXT on Github, but the display didn't work properly. Does anyone have any suggestions or even a copy of this firmware?
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ATU-10 with external resistive bridge not tuning
5
I'm testing the ATU-10 with a resistive bridge (from Kanga Labs) between the transceiver (QRPLabs QDX) and the tuner to protect the finals of the QDX from momentary high SWR during the tuning process. My ATU-10 is running 1.6 with the stock configuration. When the resistive bridge is enabled, the tuner doesn't start the tuning process. If I disable the bridge the tuner works properly. Would really appreciate suggestions on how to investigate this - could the resistive bridge be lowering the power the tuner is seeing so it doesn't tune? best wishes, Joel KD2WQI
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Cannot update FW, No virtual drive
4
I am looking to upgrade to the latest firmware on my ATU-10, i have 1.4, but when I plug in the USB to my W10 laptop, I do not see a virtual drive. This is the first time I am upgrading the FW, so maybe I am missing something? It charges fine, and visually everything seems soldered correctly.
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New Assembly Aid Video
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#1KW
I decided to make a video to show the assembling of the ATU-1000 since others have requested instructions. https://youtu.be/wHGkib4RlUs
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My ATU-10 charges just fine via USB-C. However connecting the USB-C to my Windows 11 Surface does not open the new file manager window to allow FW updates. I am at FW Ver 1.4 and really want to update to 1.6. I have the file on my desktop ready to go. Am I missing a driver? Do I need a USB cable with chokes on both ends?
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ATU-10 How to upgrade firmware?
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#ATU-10
I have a couple of ATU-10s to upgrade from 1.4 to 1.6 firmware. I bought these off Amazon and noticed the OLED display connections are soldered to the programming pins. The example picture off the GitHub redme.md also shows the OLED soldered to the programming pins. Do I need to unsolder the OLED pins to connect the programmer or can I leave them connected? If I do have to unsolder the display pins can I replace the wire with a header and Dupont connectors? Thanks - Dave, N4ELM
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#ATU-10 firmware 1.5 has been released
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#ATU-10
Hi, people New firmware on Github https://github.com/Dfinitski/ATU-10-10W-QRP-antenna-tuner/blob/main/Firmware/ATU-10_FW_15.zip I hope your tuners will work better.
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Regarding the relays I've added diodes as well as a very small led across each relay so at least I now know if each of the transistors are working My next question is I've used My PicaTune homebrew ATU for years and once it's found a match it remembers for next time so it's not constantly looking for a different match under WINDY conditions or WET conditions. My SG230 I built the AUTO Lock so that once matched in seconds and it's windy or wet outside I just flick the Switch in to LOCK the ATU from retuning. My question is having read people having this same issue with this design would be to have a LOCK switch after the aerial has been matched. Is this possible in the Firmware and if it is possible would sort the difficult issue of the ATU100 retuning David G4RVH
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Diodes
8
Hi David, The ATU100 design uses a small capacitor across the relay coil to limit the back EMF. Many of these simple ATU schematics are very similar (The SGC/Icom/MFJ/LDG/mAT/ATU-100 are 90% the same)! Other than the ATU-100, they all have frequency monitoring, the SGC and Icom ones add phase and inductance measurements, the mAT and Icom have a small dummy-load that is switched inline to reduce the power through the relays during switching. Some people feel that the capacitor option introduces less switching noise (as you're dumping the Back EMF via the diode onto the ground line). LDG use latching relays (that use one polarity to open, and the other polarity to close), so can't use the diode. But, for whatever reason, even the designs using traditional relays, all use the capacitor across the relays, instead of diodes. Roger.
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ATU-100
6
Hi David, Yes the high side of the relays are 12V. The other side is pulled low by the mosfets. The PIC switches 5V to the gate of the mosfets. PIC pin high = mosfet on = drain pulled low = 12V across the relay = contacts closed. Roger
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Auto mode
8
I want to setup my ATU-100 in a waterproof box at the base of my 111ft (34mtrs) Inverted "L" Long Wire. I gather that if I momentarily ground RB1 just once to will push it into Automatic mode and save to memory. Question . . . Is RB1 the pad on the underside of the PCB, marked B1 alongside B2, A7 and A6 ? Hopefully, that simple. Many thanks Steve/G4MJW
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ATU-100
I am just making absolutely sure from the Schematic. Am I correct in saying that when the 2N7002 Mosfets are switched on that they supply the different relays with ground to actually switch the relays on as I see all of the relays are supplied to the 12 volts rail. Thankyou in advance for the query. Kind Regards David G4RVH
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Meant to send 2 photos 73s david G4RVH -------- Original message -------- From: g4rvh <g4rvh@...> Date: 19/06/2024 10:47 (GMT+00:00) To: [email protected] Subject: Diodes Good Morning. My name is David G4RVH. I've been a radioham for over 40 years so have built my complete working radioham shack and all of the equipment homebrew ie transceivers and test gear. A labour of love. Plus I built the G3XJP PicAtune Auto ATU years ago as I know Peter Rhodes quite well. Anyhow maybe I am missing something but would have thought it to be important to have Back EMF diodes across each of the relays as a safety factor to protect the 2N7000 FET Transistors. I also just for my own benefit are going to fit tiny LED's across each of the relays so that I definitely know that all the relays are switching via the transistors, just a peace of mind quick check. 73s David G4RVH
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Diodes
Good Morning. My name is David G4RVH. I've been a radioham for over 40 years so have built my complete working radioham shack and all of the equipment homebrew ie transceivers and test gear. A labour of love. Plus I built the G3XJP PicAtune Auto ATU years ago as I know Peter Rhodes quite well. Anyhow maybe I am missing something but would have thought it to be important to have Back EMF diodes across each of the relays as a safety factor to protect the 2N7000 FET Transistors. I also just for my own benefit are going to fit tiny LED's across each of the relays so that I definitely know that all the relays are switching via the transistors, just a peace of mind quick check. 73s David G4RVH
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Hello All Last October, I purchased via Etsy ATU-100 mini from S51PV. It arrived and I turned it On, saw the unit was working and I put it in my drawer. It came in without a case and without antenna ports. Couple of weeks back, I decided to put the ATU to use and soldered the antenna connectors. I inadvertently, supplied 12v to the button pin which obviously damaged the PIC chip - at least this is what I suspected. Since then I have replaced the PIC16F1938 chip and flashed it multiple times - but the display shows the attached characters. Is there something else that would have got damaged which I need to replace? I tried to search a lot but cannot find any answer. 73 de VU2TUM Puneit Singh
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Pickit 3 Windows Software
5
Can someone please send me a LINK to the latest application software that'll work on Windows 10 for the Pickit 3. I used my Pickit 3, 3 or 4 years ago with 3.1 software on an old laptop and I was able to make some changes on my ATU-100. I now have a second working ATU and want to set it to permanent Automatic mode Nd do the WRP mods. I have a newer Laptop with Win10 which I put the same 3.1 software on it but my Pickit is not recognised. As the Pickit3 is no longer supported, I've not been able to find 3.1 or any later software. Many thanks Steve/G4MJW
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Sat 8:39am
Sat 8:39am