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Winnebago Warrior 91 6
Hello Everybody, I have the 1991 21 ft Warrior, V6, mileage almost 60k. It hasn’t been driven for many years and obviously requires a lot of work. The engine will not start. All tires have to be replaced. I am not able to do much work myself and it does not seem to be possible to find in my area a shop, interested in such kind of work. I'm giving up... Anybody interested to have it? Located in Delaware County, Pennsylvania. Current picture attached. Best regards, -walter
Started by Walter @ · Most recent @
Mirror arms / posts 2
Hi All, I know last I checked there was nowhere to get these but the ones I cannibalized off an old Dolphin are starting to fall apart from rust so figured I'd check again in case anyone started making them in the last 9 years, or someone found some other workaround that looks good? Pics attached of mine (driver's side support arm rusted out.) Thanks. Ed
Started by Edward Gordon @ · Most recent @
Headlight screws 97 Spirit 4
Hello all! My Spirit, basically a Dolphin with a different layout, has one headlight that the upper screw broke off so headlight flops and mostly shines up at a tree. I took the old bolt to Lowes who had none that matched. Surely it's metric but I have no idea what size it is or where to get a replacement. Google has not been helpful . . . any leads? Thanks, Lori
Started by loriswitch @ · Most recent @
New Tires 6
Hi Fellow Toyota Camper Owners, I am shopping for new tires. In the past, manufacturers have come and gone making the size and specs needed for our rigs. I recently came across the Haida and Waterfall brands, carried at Walmart, for very attractive prices, in the mid to high $60s per tire. I need 2 sets, and my current tires are 185R14C. Have any of you had any experience with these brands and tires specifically for your Toyota Campers? Thank you for any input. John Farrell
Started by John Farrell @ · Most recent @
What is Best Way to Remove and Replace Dometic fridge from 18 ft 1986 Sunrader Shorty? 7
Hello Everyone The original Sunrader Dometic RM 2400 (23" wide, 32" H, 16.5" deep) compressor died and I need to remove it to install Dometic RM 2354 (21"W, 27"H, 14"D only 3.0 CF) I bought used on Craigslist for $350. What is the best way to take out the old fridge and bring in the new one on the 18 ft Sunrader Shorty 1986 that has the really large rear window? They surely cannot make it through the usual door to the house, right?. Do you have to take out the rear window and the dining table to get the fridges swapped? Or can you do a swap by removing the passenger seat and the middle part of the cab bed, and can the old and new fridges be passed through the passenger door after the passenger seat is removed? Can anyone refer "someone" who could do the labor for the swap and hook up the new used fridge so it works right, in Phoenix area? Or do I have to pay RV repair place $175 - $195/hr? Julia - Scottsdale, AZ
Started by Julia @ · Most recent @
Accessing the front center clearance lights, 1991 toyhouse 5
Looking for suggestions on the best and safest way to access the center front clearance light on a 1991 Winnebago Warrior toyhouse. At 230 pounds weight, standing on the hood is probably not a good idea. :-O Any other suggestions? Thanks... Eric in NH
Started by fld@... @ · Most recent @
Tachometer for toyhouse 4
I'm planning to install a tachometer, coolant temp gauge, and transmission temp gauge on a 3-gauge left-pillar-mount housing in a 1991 Warrior V6 auto. I'd like to use GlowShift gauges but the only 2" tachometer I can find is 10,000 RPM max. For a toyhouse with a redline of around 5500-6000 that probably spends most of its life below 3500 it seems like 10,000 is kind of silly. Anybody know of a 2" tach with a max range of more like 6000, that would look good with the GlowShift temperature gauges? Have any of you done a similar installation using the pillar-mount housing and would you mind sending me a few photos (or post them here)? Thanks... Eric in NH
Started by fld@... @ · Most recent @
Rear Brakes? 13
My rear brakes leave something to be desired. I can lock up the front brakes, skid the front tires, while the rears don't seem to be "Stopping their Weight". I've go the "GO" thing going really well, new tranny, 4:80 positraction rear end, ect. But the STOP thing... needs some git up and STOP! I'm running my air bags pumped up pretty high (75~80 PSI) to put more weight on the front end. My rear shoes are stock about 50% worn. I have blocked the rear proportioning valve to give the rear end full flow. The front end has new calipers and pads. The whole system has been flushed out and converted to DOT 5 Silicone. So my questions are , are there better options for rear shoes than stock, or are they perhaps glazed? Should I totally remove and re plumb around the proportioning valve? Replace rear cylinders, shoes, replumb around proportioner valve? Something else? Part Numbers?
Started by Robert Himler @ · Most recent @
Door stop 5
Is this the original door stop? Or is here a smart solution for?
Started by paul@... @ · Most recent @
Broken inline fuse cartridge by engine 5
On our 1987 Sunrader, with the 22R-E, I found this wire disconnected because the fuse cartridge clasp broke. When I saw it, the fuse was gone. In the Spring of 2012, when I had stopped by Sunrader Bob's for another electrical diagnosis, he was at first puzzled by the unusual amount of wiring under the hood, not the normal setup. So here's an attempt to figure out the unorthodox. On the photo of the electrical device with attached wiring, it's the black wire, coming from the upper right, going out the bottom left. The other photo shows the broken fuse cartridge, with the wire going into the firewall. Any idea what for and what size fuse? Thank you. Tom
Started by Tom L @ · Most recent @
1991 Warrior - What is this thing in the taillight wiring? 10
Anybody have any idea what this thing is? It's the thing marked "??" in about the center of the picture. It's located on the house underside between the grey and black tanks, about 2 feet forward of the rear bumper. Out one side is the taillight wiring and the other side goes forward (somewhere). Still working on troubleshooting my clearance light problem... tail lights and front and rear marker lights all work as does the trailer light connector... I know this, because while metering the trailer light connector I shorted it out and blew the fuse (lucky I have plenty of spare fuses). Rick in NH
Started by fld@... @ · Most recent @
Scary ineffective lousy brakes on 1986 NIssan D21 Hardbody Sunrader 17
Since I do not live 100% of the time with the Sunrader in the subject line, I am slow at dealing with it's issues. 2 months ago, I took it to a mechanic new to me, referral from a long string of other shops who won't deal with my "Motorhome" (too old, too high, too heavy, no place to put it under insurance, mechanics too young, don't know anything about it, "We don't work on anything older than 1996"). This mechanic has several vehicles and some motorhomes like mine, that have "Arizona Historic Vehicle copy license plates" (older than 25 years), on his lot, which is on a piece of land that he owns. The Owner showed me that the front brake master cylinders didn't have any pressure, so I didn't have front brakes. So he changed both ft. and rear(ft, and rear are the same part and words Front and Rear are even embossed on the part). Well new brake master cylinder didn't make a difference in the braking feel. His employee Andy, owns a Nissan D21, Hardbody I think it is a 1992, and he has another one. I don't know what is normal in these Nissan trucks, but Andy drove it and agreed "Mine takes too much pressure on the pedal for not much braking power". Andy feels it is a bad brake booster that has no vacuum, cos a leaking brake master cylinder above the booster, can ruin the booster. If not that, Andy has to take apart the rear wheels. The other issue, that the Nissan Sunrader "won't start" from time to time, especially when 32 degrees, everyone says "have to diagnose when it happens", which time before it happened, after waiting 3 hours for a tow truck to come to the Pilot truck stop 30 miles east of Quartzsite (I was going to Tika's Rally last Jan), when tow truck finally arrived, of course, the Sunrader started immediately, after that tow truck driver drove 75 miles to come get me. Steve, whatever you did at the Rally, it didn't fix the issue. It didn't start again in Feb, when I went to the Tucson Gem Show and spent the night at Walmart, but it always "starts later the same day", or on another day, so I have never been forever stranded, and have never been towed. The brake repair is for another day, at the end of this year, Julia -- Julia - Scottsdale, AZ
Started by Julia @ · Most recent @
Body Damage 13
Greetings! I'm Cheryl, I just joined, thanks, it's good to be here. I finally got my 86' Toyota Dolphin on May 8th and I love it! This is my first post. I guess I backed into something and now a seam on the rear of my lil' Dolphin is damaged. Is this something I can fix myself or is it a job for a professional? My son is very good at fixing most everything. I have a short trip planned for this weekend, about an hour and a half away from home. I feel like driving the rig like this will make it worse. I really hope we can fix it before Friday. Fix it tips would be greatly appreciated! Thanks for looking, Cheryl
Started by Cheryl F @ · Most recent @
'89 parts vehicle Dolphin
Not my ad https://www.facebook.com/share/p/2pKsBBHHZkB1Nqwt/?mibextid=kL3p88 Looks like it's in Minnesota.
Started by ken winston caine @
1991 Warrioir clearance lights 4
Anybody know how the clearance lights on a 1991 Winnebago Warrior are wired in? All of the upper clearance lights, front and back, have quit working. All the other lights (head, tail, stop, turn, etc.) all work including the bottom clearance lights left and right. Fuses are all good. I assume the clearance lights are controlled by the tail light fuse? Rick in NH
Started by fld@... @ · Most recent @
1991 Warrior passenger side view mirror brace 10
Had a bit of a mishap with my 1991 Warrior, hit something with the right side view mirror and broke the center cross brace. Oddly enough that's the only thing that broke; the mirrors themselves came out of it fine. This photo shows the driver side brace, what I need is the passenger side brace (might be the same, not sure). Anyone know where I can get one, or perhaps any of you have one for sale?
Started by fld@... @ · Most recent @
1991 Warrior - Replacing house thermostat (NOT engine thermostat) 10
Good morning, all. The furnace in my 1991 Winnebago Warrior toyhouse does not regulate the heat very well.. it cycles from uncomfortably warm to uncomfortably cold and back again. I'm thinking maybe replacing the 34-year-old thermostat with a more modern-technology one might help. Any of you have experience with this and can offer suggestions? Thanks... Rick in NH
Started by fld@... @ · Most recent @
Resealing 86 Dolphin roof 5
I bought this dolphin easily 10 years ago. It was in pretty good shape, but there were a few minor leaks in the cabover area. As the area of the cabover was prone to leaking, I decided to take a drastic step and removed the window, sealing it with plywood then fiberglassing over it. I also decided that some of the corners, between the wall and roofing metal, had water leaks so along the ply had puffed out from water expansion. There were spots where the corner metal did not fully cover the joint. As we were fiberglassing in the front window panel, I decided to fiberglass over the corners. Here it is, many years later. I've pulled the tarp off with the intention of getting Dolphin on the road. Of course, I can't get it started, and it's been diagnosed to be a fuel pump problem, but the problem I'm here to ask about is there has been moisture that has gotten into the camper. I'm wondering if it's from where the fiberglass covers the metal corners, as it's impossible to tell whether it's 100% sealed. Though we put 2 coats of Kool Seal on, the Kool seal has come off in spots. I'm wondering how to seal off roof. 1. Do I need to remove some of the Kool Seal so anything I apply is on bare metal/fiberglass? 2. Should I get a can of Dicor RP-CRC-1 EPDM Rubber Roof Acrylic Coating Part 2 - White, 1 Gallon off a washed, cleaned roof. Can I se the Part 2 without using the Part 1? 3. Should I just use Dicor 501LSW-1 RV Rubber Roof Sealant Self Leveling Caulk where I think it needs to be applied? 4. Should I just run RV Roof Tape White along the edges where the fiberglass ends on the metal roof? Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated. Also, I removed the AC and replaced it with MaxxAir, using new gaskets, so I don't think the leaks come from the open ports. I think it's the Kool Seal.
Started by Geraldine Kudaka @ · Most recent @
Messages List is temporarily not loading - fix is coming soon hopefully.
UPDATE: The 开云体育 team has now fixed this glitch. --- The Messages List for this group is temporarily not loading at the main online site. Explanation unknown. A fix is coming soon hopefully. Sorry for any inconvenience. Please check back often for continuing discussions about all things related to Toyota RVs. However even though the main Messages List is currently down, you can still enjoy our several WIKI articles here: /g/toyota-campers/wiki And our voluminous FILES Section here where you can read articles all day about Toyota RVs. /g/toyota-campers/files Thank you for your continuing membership in the longest-running online forum about Toyota RVs! Tika - group owner/ moderator
Started by Tika @
'92 Dolphin in El Paso
Spotted this on FB Marketplace: https://www.facebook.com/share/eGXcAu9fPJocTrLy/?mibextid=kL3p88 Sounds to me that it's likely suffered a lot of water damage, but that's just a guess.
Started by ken winston caine @
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