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Resealing 86 Dolphin roof
I bought this dolphin easily 10 years ago. It was in pretty good shape, but there were a few minor leaks in the cabover area.? As the area of the cabover was prone to leaking, I decided to take a drastic step and removed the window, sealing it with plywood then fiberglassing over it. I also decided that some of the corners, between the wall and roofing metal, had water leaks so along the ply had puffed out from water expansion. There were spots where the corner metal did not fully cover the joint. As we were fiberglassing in the front window panel, I decided to fiberglass over the corners. Here it is, many years later. I've pulled the tarp off with the intention of getting Dolphin on the road. Of course, I can't get it started, and it's been diagnosed to be a fuel pump problem, but the problem I'm here to ask about is there has been moisture that has gotten into the camper. I'm wondering if it's from where the fiberglass covers the metal corners, as it's impossible to tell whether it's 100% sealed. Though we put 2 coats of Kool Seal on, the Kool seal has come off in spots. I'm wondering how to seal off roof.? 1. Do I need to remove some of the Kool Seal so anything I apply is on bare metal/fiberglass? 2. Should I get a can of Dicor RP-CRC-1 EPDM Rubber Roof Acrylic Coating Part 2 - White, 1 Gallon off a washed, cleaned roof. Can I se the Part 2 without using the Part 1? 3. Should I just use Dicor 501LSW-1 RV Rubber Roof Sealant Self Leveling Caulk where I think it needs to be applied? 4. Should I just run RV Roof Tape White along the edges where the fiberglass ends on the metal roof? Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated. Also, I removed the AC and replaced it with MaxxAir, using new gaskets, so I don't think the leaks come from the open ports. I think it's the Kool Seal.? ?
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It is hard to visualize all of what you are saying but in general I believe it is agreed among those who have done testing that liquid Silicone topping is the longest lasting and the most flexible most UV resistant of all the different liquid options such as acrylic or EDPM etc.? One popular brand is "HENRY".? ?There are? a few others.? ?However, nothing else will adhere to it when cured except silicone.? ?Sometimes it is a good idea to embed fiberglass tape into a wet coating and then apply another top coat within 24 hrs.
Caulk is sometimes necessary and again silicone is best and again sometimes if there is movement in a joint or seam due to mechanical movement or hot cold fluctuations a fiberglass cloth or tape should be embedded.? ? ? When using? adhesive tape for sealing,? Eternabond I think is regarded as the best and longest lasting.? See the many youtube tests of RV roof repair at Youtube.? ? I dont know what the Eternabond compound is but I think it is Butyl Adhesive. and can be top coated with silicone? coatings like Henry.? ?Lastly, the Silicone coatings are double ( or more ) of the cost of other RV roof coatings..... but if it lasts 2 or 3 times as long,? is cost justified.? ?There are at least several dozen RV roof repair videos at YouTube? ? One that surprised? me was "Gorilla" white roof patch and seal tape. |
Although Henry’s is a good brand, not all their products are appropriate.?I do NOT recommend the one called Tropicool.? The reason is that is it silicone-based and nothing will adhere to it ever again after it begins to deteriorate, which could be in as little as just a few years.? ? Instead I recommend any version of roof sealing product for metal roofs that is labeled as “elastomeric sealant.”? It flexes like silicon, however more can be added to it without removing it ?when some deterioration develops.? If that is what you already have, then it can be scrubbed clean and more applied. ? Dicor brand makes a highly-recommended elastomeric roof sealant.? It will take about one gallon per coat, and at least two coats are recommended and three is even better.? Five gallons is too much unless you have a way to store it tightly sealed for a few years until you want to use up the rest.? I also do not recommend any product labeled as “Rubber Roof Sealant.”? That is specifically for rubber membrane roofs. ?Unless you have a Toyota Odyssey Americana, no other Toyota RVs came with a rubber membrane roof. ? The important thing is no matter which version of elastomeric sealant that you get, the preparation is extremely important.? If the roof is not scrubbed completely clean, no sealant will stay put and will begin to peel rather soon. In addition, applying self-leveling caulk. aka "lap sealant," is needed before the roof is “painted.”? ?Dicor brand is recommended, in Ivory rather than white. ?After scrubbing thoroughly, squirt it all around any vents and seams that have cracks. You will need 2-3 tubes.? Eternabond tape DOES seal well, but it looks somewhat unsightly (kinda like band-aid), because it only comes in bright white.? Another drawback is that it does not work well at all on curves without lots of time-consuming “notching.” ? Instead, porous fiberglass fabric tape is what the professional RV roof sealing shops use around every opening.? After it is applied, it is coated (and therefore infused) with the roof sealing paint that makes it stick with a tight seal. ? ? The professional RV roof sealing companies also sell their products for DIY use, to folks who are in a position to attempt it on their own.? It is worth it to spend more on their roof paint and accompanying products if you are going to keep your RV for a while.? The directions need to be followed carefully for best results.? If you have it sealed in a shop, they’ll give you up to a 10 year warranty. ? |
开云体育Thank you for this great tutorial, Tika. I once caulked two of my Dolphin’s windows with silicone. A couple years later it took hours and hours of scraping and solvent to remove it (it had flaked apart in that time). No silicone for me on anything ever again.On May 11, 2024, at 5:20?PM, Tika via groups.io <tika_ee@...> wrote:
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