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A hypothetical question, at least for now... :-O If I were to break the cabover front window on a toyhouse, or any of the sliding windows, where would I go to get them replaced? Eric in NH

I've read as many of the past threads here as I can find on the topic of market value of these toyhouses but it appears that some things may have changed in the last year or two, in particular demand for these toyhouses may be up while supply is way down. So, what is the current thinking on the topic of how to value these things? Ours is a 1991 Warrior, V6 auto, in good shape, no rust, new fridge, everything works except the heater isn't very reliable. Total miles is 61,000 +/-. It gets 13-14 mpg. No leaks that I can find. It's currently insured for $8500 and I'm thinking that might be a bit low. I'm setting up a meeting with our insurance agent to go over all of our insurance needs (home and other vehicles besides the toyhouse) and am looking to perhaps raise coverage (but by how much?). I'm having trouble finding a website that will provide a "book" value for that year and model. The only one I've found is J. D. Power, no NADA and no Kelly Blue Book. J. D. Power claims a current average retail "book" value of just $2710 which of course is ridiculous. Most of the asking prices on places like RV Trader seem to range from $10K up to $18K with some outliers a lot higher and somewhat lower than that. But of course, we know those are "asking" prices and not necessarily "getting" prices. Rick in NH

Here's a question that I'm sure doesn't get asked a lot. I'm sure when flat-towing our MHs when they break down and need to be towed to a service center, that short distance is not an issue (when towed by a tow truck that lifts the front wheels). But for a long tow (250 miles) I'm told that the drive shaft needs to be disconnected because even though the tranny is in neutral, the engine isn't running but the rear wheels are turning some of the tranny inards so there's no lubrication going on, and this can damage the tranny. Obviously a flatbed tow truck doesn't have this issue, but I will be flat-towing my MH for a goodly distance twice a year. So what about leaving the engine running at idle while towing? Will this provide enough lubrication for the tranny even though the rear wheels are going 50 MPH? Yes, that burns about 1/2 gallon per hour, but if the drive shaft can't be disconnected, is this a viable option? Any tranny experts out there?

I just got an estimate, sight-unseen, from a local repair shop (call it "Shop A") for $450-$550 to do the 60K-mile valve adjustment. Another shop ("Shop B"), that specializes in Toyotas but had turned the job down because they are too busy and don't want to work on something that old, told me "If (Shop A) only quoted $500 then they have no clue what they are doing. To do that job correctly will take a long time 10+ hours if they actually make shim adjustments. Only way to adjust the valves is replace a shim with thicker or thinner shims.". So what do you all think? Is $500 ridiculously low for this job and Shop A probably really doesn't know what they are doing? Note that Shop B had already turned the job down so it's not like they're trying to drum up business. Shop B (the Toyota specialist) also said "I would save your money and just drive it.". Is that valid advice? I'm not hearing any unusual noises that would indicate the valve adjustment is too loose, but someone on this forum mentioned that if the valve adjustment is too tight it could result in a valve not fully closing which can burn the valve while not making any noise. Is that a valid concern and a good reason to have the service done at 60K miles as recommended? I get it that Toyota makes these recommendations for a reason... but sometimes the reason is their lawyer told them to. Eric in NH 1991 Winnebago Warrior V6 auto

I’m having trouble finding a YouTube video or any other link showing the specific process for removing an Onan Microlite 2800 from its side compartment in my 1990 Dolphin. Of course I could just wing it and go for it but I’d prefer to read a step by step description etc beforehand. Thanks

How can I determine (without taking it all apart) whether I have the semi-floating or the full-floating rear end? I'm told that the Toyota 1-ton truck came from the factory with the SF rear end but either (a) the FF rear end was a factory option or (b) lots of people converted theirs from SF to FF.

The new Itasca came to me with a broken cab AC, but with a brand new Coleman Mach 9 Plus Polar Cub coach AC (9200 BTU, 1550 running watts in the desert, 1748 running watts for a heat strip). When I spoke to my repair dude, he said an entire new AC system for the cab is about $2000 (the compressor is corroded and rusted shut, and no coolant, too far gone to fix). He suggested instead of replacing the cab AC, just install a new generator and run the coach AC when driving. Reading online, it seems as if the only "installed" RV gens are by Cummins Onan, and the smallest they offer now, the QG 2800, is a bit too wide for the generator opening -- unless I take out the metal plate separating where the old generator was from the storage for the huge electric connection line. The camper did come with a used Kohler that the previous owner was going to put in, but never got around to -- no idea if it works, or even how to check it. All the Kohlers I had previously didn't work and couldn't be fixed. So, what do y'all think? 1. fix the cab AC and get a portable generator to take boondocking? I'm 64 and not as strong as I used to be so can't pick up much over 50#, and maneuvering a portable generator thru the coach door may be daunting. 2. somehow modify or remove the metal plate and electric line storage area so an Onan will fit? or remove the plate and store the line above and on top of the Onan? 3. jury rig a metal platform off the backside to hold non rv generator and use that somehow (my least favorite option, but mentioned by mechanic - sounds ugly, a heavy weight off the end of the rig, and the frame does have some rust I need to abate so I'm not happy about welding to the frame)? 4. Have any of you used the coach to keep the cab cool, and did it work well and not use too much gasoline? or is this a seriously BAD idea? Thanks Y'all, Sue Crowe (wondering if she made a big mistake buying this camper) (but it's sooo pretty!!!) (and the Poor Neglected Thing need a Home)

It's beginning to look like I'm going to have to do this wheel bearing repack job myself... can't find a shop to do it that isn't (a) booking out into October; and/or (b) gives me no confidence at all that they know what they are doing; and/or (c) wants north of $1600 to do it. Anybody know where I can get a service manual for the 1990 1-ton Toyota truck that is the basis for my 1991 Warrior toyhouse? A free PDF download would be nice but I don't mind paying for a paper copy as long as it's not ridiculous. Google is no help... I can find plenty of shop manuals for the standard pickups and 4Runners and such, but nothing on the 1-ton. I've seen a few on eBay but they all look like they're for the standard pickup truck and also most of them are north of $150 which seems excessive... Thanks...

I just got a quote of $2681.74 to do the 60K-mile valve adjustment and wheel bearing repacks on the toyhouse V6. Seems kind of excessive... what do you all think?

I'm planning a toyhouse trip from NH to northern Minnesota for later this year or early next, going up thru Michigan to the Upper Peninsula and then across on Route 2 to Wisconsin and on to Duluth. It's mostly interstates except Route 2 in the Michigan UP. Anybody have any ideas on websites I can access or discussion groups I can join to find out about that route? Is it mostly 65-MPH 4-lanes or better, or mostly 45-MPH 2 lanes? Lots of hills, or relatively flat? Services readily available, or long stretches with no services? Good cellular coverage? Google helped a little but not much. Thanks...

I decided to start a fresh thread on my Onan 2800 generator issue because I’ve got a very repeatable hint. The problem is that as long as the Dolphin is parked on the very slightest front end downhill slope the generator runs perfectly. The gas tank is full and the oil level in the generator is correct. But when the Dolphin is level or just slightly angled with its front end uphill (as little as 2 or 3 degrees tilt) the generator sounds starved for gas and won’t keep running. Very strange indeed. I previously confirmed that the fuel pump was working by pulling the gas line off of the carburetor and viewing the healthy gas flow. With that pump test done I went ahead and changed out the carburetor but the angle sensitivity is still present. Now back from a few days on the road (deliberately parking down hill) I will reproduce the “uphill issue” and pull the gas line to absolutely confirm the pump is pumping when the problem is happening. Anyone ever experience this angle sensitivity even when your gas tank is full and the gen oil level is correct?

What is the expected lifetime of the air bags on the rear of our toyhouses? Mine is a 1991 Warrior V6. I believe the air bags are original, at least they haven't been replaced since we bought it in 2001. So far they seem to be holding up (although the passenger-side airbag does bleed off from 80 to around 30-40 PSI over 3-4 days' time). We're planning a long trip (3500 miles round trip) and I'm thinking these airbags might be on borrowed time due to age. What do you think? Rick in NH

Vintage Toyota SandTana Motor Home 3999.00 obo if interested please email Nate at diamondheartofdharma@... or call 570 78zero 69five one see below for description. Runs Strong New PA inspection thru June 2024 The Famous 22r Engine (google this engine) 18-23 +MPG great on gas New Clutch New alternator New Regulator New Battery New Rear Tires and Bearings New Fuel Filter New spark plugs and Cables New drive Belt New Rotor and Distributor cap New Parking Brake Hard Wood Floors within Sink Toilet Fridge Stove 18Gallon Water Tank 12 gallon GreyWater tank 5Gallon Propane tank All original Cabinets and drawers Lots of storage space Pop up top Queen Bed folds up to kitchen table with booths A couple things that I would like to mention that can use a little attention. the undercarriage is rusty but can be protected with a coat of rust oleum. the pop up top nylon material has a couple rips that can easily be sewed.

I want to replace my roughly 1990 carb following two unsuccessful cleaning attempts. Plenty of these p/n 146-0705 carbs are for sale on Amazon and EBay but every one, including the one I received from Amazon, are designed to hook onto the choke linkage at a different angle than my original carb. The choke linkage on my 2800 generator comes from behind the carb (the solenoid and linkage are directly back behind the carb) whereas all the new replacement carbs expect the choke linkage to come from the right side of the carb. In other words the choke linkage rod runs parallel to the throttle rod on newer Microlite 2800’s. Where can I buy the older style carb like mine where the choke and throttle linkage run 90 degrees offset from each other? A frustrated Dolphin and its owner thank you in advance.

Gone? When I click on photos in email it says post has been deleted. LOVED my Sandtana more than any other Toy camper I've ever had or seen. But once the thin fiberglass siding delaminates, it means previously undetected water intrusion has rotted the plywood siding and parts of the wooden frame and the camper quickly starts coming apart at the seams. Fortunately in the Southwest with its relatively dry climates, mine survived 33 years. However, the actual design of these makes such water intrusion and damage inevitable as the campers age. Still, would love to have another if it's relatively solid. Was excited to see this post. Mine routinely averaged 19 mpg, which you simply can't touch with the bigger, heavier Toy RVs. Sandtana's low, sleek profile has much less wind resistance, too, which allows it to cruise comfortably and handle better at higher speeds

So the 1992 camper had a very old Winegard batwing antennae, and NO boost on the wall plate on the inside, just ports for cables ("antennae" and "cable"). Borrowing a new HD TV, I set it up and got 13 analog channels -- mostly public tv and preaching, but whatever. I got fancy and ordered a Winegard Sensar IV replacement head (not the whole unit), thinking it would add channels -- NOT! Went down to 8 channels, lost all my preachers! LOOOONNNNNG conversation with a very sweet young lady at Winegard, and it was apparent she was never the kid sent up the old attic ladder to rotate the antennae, as she couldn't grasp that there was no power to the wall outlet (she kept insisting there HAD to be power). And she had no idea why I got less channels. And when I asked if there was anyone else in the office who might know, it kinda ticked her off -- long holds while she "checked with her supervisor," which may mean she was getting a cup of coffee, or a valium, or both. I asked about the LNA-100 tv booster ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BN5Z2UY/?coliid=I2D8BJ0RXEDCXH&colid=3QXU11ZAQMHIX&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_itter ), but she said it wouldn't work ("too much amplification"). I asked if the new antennae was defective, but she said no -- I guess they are pretty simple. Finally she said I needed to buy this RFL 342 booster and install with "power" and I assume she meant 12 volt. ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004NFTOLY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 ). So what do all the OG's here think? 1.Try the booster that plugs in between the TV and the antennae, using the USB to power it from the 220 outlet plate next to the cable plate? 2.Return the Sensar IV, replace the old batwing, and give up? 3.Keep it and try to run 12 volt wires thru the upper cabinet from the undercabinet light fixture and install the LNA 100? 4. Read a book instead? BTW I asked the guys at Camping World (the seventh level of hell, I know) and they were recommending an old face plate with a 12 volt receptacle RA 7296 ( https://www.amazon.com/Winegard-18-9847-RA-7296-Signal-Amplifier-White/dp/B000GGJQLW/ref=sr_1_13?crid=VXITS5CZXR45&keywords=winegard+ra7596&qid=1687899573&sprefix=winegard+ra7596%2Caps%2C323&sr=8-13 ). Thanks, Sue

Is it OK to drive a toyhouse (1991 Warrior) limited distances (like 10 miles on good roads) with rear air bags deflated? Will that tend to overstress the rear leaf springs, or do any other unfriendly things? Thanks... Rick in NH

I could not find that 18 ft V6 Sunrader on Oregon Facebook when it was first mentioned on this forum, probably sold. How much was that Oregon 18 ft Sunrader V6 5 spd manual selling for? No one said what "good price" was? Was it 22,000 miles on it or 120,000 miles? Was it a Nissan D21 Hardbody?, or Toyota V6. Does anyone know if there is a way to search ALL of Facebook Marketplace nationwide on one site, or you have to go to hundreds of geographical areas and search each one with the subject you are looking for? Does anyone know how to search all of OfferUp nationwide at once? Well here is how to search all of Craigslist nationwide, in case you don't know All of Craigslist Julia Genevy All of Craigslist The easy way to search all of Craigslist pages in craigslist.org -- Julia - Scottsdale, AZ

Happy Fourth of July Y'All, hope you are all out camping!

Just got an email from 开云体育 Notification that my last post was "edited by a group moderator." Does that mean that is isn't going to be posted? I did have links in the message so folks could see what product I was referring to. Slightly confused, Sue