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I know this has been discussed a few times, but maybe the photos and sketch will help someone who is considering doing the same thing. A while ago I bought a mitre gauge (similar to this) from Banggood and have recently found time to make some adapters, based (I think) on David Best's idea. I used 30x20 EN3B (bright mild steel), rather than aluminium, because I was concerned (needlessly, I suspect) about side load on the thin vertical section. I used two nylon-tipped 4x14mm grub screws for the lateral adjustment and two 8x8mm nylon-tipped grub screws for the vertical adjustment and locking. If I were doing it again I would use 5 or 6mm diameter screws for the laterals, and 10mm long screws for the verticals. The holes for the laterals are clearance-bored about 15mm deep to avoid the need to tap the whole thing. The mitre gauge is fixed to one of the adapters by removing the large washer at the end and replacing its M5 screw with a longer one, which engages with a tapped hole in the adapter. It doesn't seem that the other end needs to be secured. It only took a couple of hours to make the adapters and early experiences suggest it was time well spent. The mitre gauge has a means of adjusting-out minor errors and drops into the adapters with no wiggle room, so should be repeatably accurate. I can see myself using it as my standard cross-cut fence for smaller jobs. Dave (in the UK)
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In the process of calibrating a used A3-31 and stumbled upon an issue with the planer feed roller. The right side is too high and for some reason doesn't rest on the support bolt (see the gap in the photo). The spring feels fine so wondering if it's not seated properly. Presumably the only way to access the top of the adjustment screw/spring is to take the the entire cutterhead/feed roller unit out? Right side that has the issue | Left side is fine Extent of the alignment issue :( Chris
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I am the recipient of Bill Belanger's prototype hose adapter. As he says, the prototype was on the thin side but it has held up well under moderate usage for almost a year. After installation, I had proposed a couple of tweaks to make the adapter easier and more secure to install as well as strengthening the walls. The trick to strengthening is to add the additional thickness on the outside of the rectangular section and the inside of the cylindrical section. The rectangle needs to go over the chute and the cylinder goes inside the hose. The 45° bend prevents hose contact with the side of the case when the arbor is tilted. I am on vacation this week. I will try to find my original correspondence with Bill when I get home Sunday and will post an update. Jim Fleming ---------- Forwarded message --------- From: [email protected] <[email protected]> Date: Thu, Jan 30, 2025, 1:27 PM Subject: [FOG] Felder Owners Group - Digest #4170 To: Jim Fleming <jameshfleming@...> This is a digest for Felder Owners Group. View all your groups.io groups, and edit your subscriptions, here. Do not reply to this email. To reply to a message, click the Reply link under the message. Topics in this digest: . 1. Re: B3 won’t switch off 2. Re: Replacement of internal dust hose is K3 Hammer slider (9) 3. Re: A3-31 roller issue (2) messages: . 1a. Re: B3 won’t switch off From: Morgan Skinner Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2025 06:40:38 PST Imran, Thanks again for your help here. Felder have provided me with the attached, which may be the correct schematic, but my machine is 2014 and this schematic is from 2019. The chap from Felder mentioned he thought it might be the brake board. I’m not sure if my B3 has a brake, I can’t say I’ve used a saw that does, and mine (when it does decide to shut off) doesn’t seem to spin down any slower than the other table saws I have owned which most definitely didn’t have a brake. Anyway, he mentioned this… I have picked up your ticket with regards to your hammer B3P and looking at the information on the ticket I would suggest the brake board is being temperamental and needs to be looked at. The brake board is labelled up either 1B1 or 2B1 and is shown on the attached wiring diagram, there is a small led light on this and I would be interested to see what that light is doing. Stable or flashing. The reason I don’t think this is anything to do with the brake (even if I have one) is that I’d expect there to be an NVR switch/circuit in a machine of this quality, and whilst I appreciate that once running, if there was a brake then that could possibly impede the shutdown, I’d also expect that removing the power entirely and then plugging it in again would not make the saw start up again. Anyway, I’ve attached the schematic and if I do happen to get another one I’ll pass that on. Cheers, Morgan Attachments: Felder B3 Perform Wiring Schematic.pdf View/Reply Online | Reply To Group | Reply To Sender | Mute Topic | Top ^ | New Topic 2a. Re: Replacement of internal dust hose is K3 Hammer slider From: Bill Belanger Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2025 08:05:28 PST ? I printed this a year ago for a fellow who says it has worked out well for him. It’s not my design and I can no longer find the STL file and I don’t remember where I found it. My plan was to redesign it to make it stronger because it’s a bit flimsy, but I believe I could just print it with more infill (thicker) to solve that. I’m on vacation now but I’ll be back in 2 weeks and I can keep working on this if there is interest. We were going to work on improving the attachment. Bill Belanger View/Reply Online | Reply To Group | Reply To Sender | Mute Topic | Top ^ | New Topic 2b. Re: Replacement of internal dust hose is K3 Hammer slider From: Christopher Rozycki Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2025 08:56:41 PST Bill! I for one am interested. Do you have the specs? Chris Chris Rozycki View/Reply Online | Reply To Group | Reply To Sender | Mute Topic | Top ^ | New Topic 2c. Re: Replacement of internal dust hose is K3 Hammer slider From: Bill Belanger Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2025 09:14:59 PST Chris; Nega
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Hello folks, I’m new here having just purchased a couple of second hand Hammer machines, a B3 Perform and an N4400. Overall I am delighted with both machines, however the B3 has an odd (and very unsafe) quirk in that sometimes it won’t switch off, using any of the “off” switches (there are three in all on this model). I leave the machine unplugged unless I’m using it, and unplugging does NOT necessarily reset it back to a normal condition - if I plug it in again, some times it will start immediately. As far as I can tell there have been no alterations to the wiring of the machine, and a lot of the time it works just as expected, however sometimes it goes rogue. The only thing I can think is that (maybe!) the “on” switch contact(s) are somehow “locked” together in the “on” position inside the switch, and thus override any of the “off” switches. Just to be clear, once the saw is in this “I’m staying on whatever you do” mode, I cannot switch it off using the off button next to the on switch, the emergency off button at the side of the saw, or the emergency off button at the rear of the saw. Both of the latter are of the “push to stop, rotate and pull to re-enable” variety. Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated - as it stands the saw is a bit on the deadly side. Thanks in advance for any suggestions you can provide. Regards, Morgan
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My new saw is mis-behaving. The commissioning tech suggests changing the output voltage from my Phase Perfect to be closer to 230 v. Right now the display is showing voltages flickering around 240 to 242 volts. Felder recommends voltage within 5% of the machine’s electrical package, which I think is 240 volts. Anyone here made such an adjustment? The PP manual describes a process, but I’m not much of an electrical wizard. -- John Hinman Boise ID Kappa 450X and A941
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Levelling Feet/Bolts or blocking locations Locations - CF 741 S
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Hi There, I have being looking thorough the manual (User Manual and Schematics) for where the levelling bolts are located on the machine. I am having a challenge to set the beds coplanar and also level, and after some adjustments they appear to be falling out of position again after some time. I have noticed this when I had to make some adjustments on the slider to fix a toe out issue (another recent topic) and found that maybe one of the levelling bolts is missing. Might this be a position of an optional mobility device??. I am not sure if I just need to block it up or use the bolts, or both, but it does concern me a little that there is only one bolt on the floor on the planer side, under the on-off switch. I have a feeling that its best to position block under the 6 corners (4 under the Saw spindle frame and 2 under the planer outside frame. A technician once told me never move the machine unless the Planer table was raised so all the heavy load rests on the main Spindle/Saw table frame, which makes sense that no blots are located under the planer side except of one to keep it from going into twist against the main frame. Any ideas from others who may have found this would be helpful. Many Thanks Colum CF741, AD 741, K700S, FB 710/510, RL 160 and 2x AF22.
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On FB's Cabinet Makers Machinery Swap $7,500 https://www.facebook.com/groups/338474850673207/?hoisted_section_header_type=recently_seen&multi_permalinks=1324180255435990 Dave Davies
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Well my next project is using Shaker style cabinet door. I would like to find out what raised panel profile you think looks good on the interior. I imagine, the raised panel profile may go hand in hand with a rail and stile profile as well but I am okay no profile on the rail and stile. Which means, I would just be milling a tenon on rails. There are way too many options out there so something from experience is very helpful. I would close by saying that I am omitting, a flat plywood panel, as an option. I think it would make the door light and lend to a low quality feel. Please correct me if I’m wrong in thinking so. Imran Malik IAM Wood Creations https://www.facebook.com/groups/362481112015700/?ref=share
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Hello FOG members, I’m considering an investment on a set of Mac’s Airtight Clamps. I have a new K700S, with a two button, remote switch, configuration at the end of the slider bed. (picture attached) Does anybody have this exact switch configuration on their K700S and could let me know how your install went. Any pictures you could share showing the female fittings at this end of your slider would be great. Along with any additional comments regarding the use and/or installation of these Clamps. Much appreciated. Thx, Wade
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I have a Powermatic lathe with a VFD. Lately it has occasionally refused to turn when switched on. It is intermittent, but the issue is becoming more frequent. I will stop the machine to check progress, and then the tool will not spin up. I’ll fiddle with the speed setting, and turn the piece by hand, and eventually it will start again. The lathe is at least 20 years old, but less than 30 years. Not a Felder tool, of course, but perhaps the talented FOG members can help me out. I have no idea where to even begin addressing this, so any suggestions or education will be helpful. Thanks, folks! -- John Hinman Boise ID Kappa 450X and A941
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The company I work for bought an A 951 L second hand (from Tom Gensmer) that came with the euro comfort guard well after a recent OSHA inspection (which they didn't catch the guard thankfully) my boss wants to put an OSHA approved guard, so I email Felder for a quote for a Suvamatic: $6,600!!!! This has to be a mistake right???? I asked for quote from Scott & Sargent as well as Calderbrook but have heard back yet. Any advice on other OSHA approved guard that fits this machine or pricing on the suvamatic would be greatly appreciated!
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I don’t have any tooling for adding hardwood edging to plywood. I have just glued a piece in past. I did pickup a MFK at an auction few yrs ago but have not used it yet but it should allow me to flush trim the edging. So question to the collective; are the solutions offered, V-Groove is what I am most intrigued about, any good? Which one you like best? Imran Malik IAM Wood Creations https://www.facebook.com/groups/362481112015700/?ref=share
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In search of Felder clamps
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A friend of mine is uprchasing a shop full of older (15 years?) Felder equipment, including a sliding table saw/Shaper combo S KF700 Pro. The previous owner just used it lika a cabinet saw and never clamped wood to the slider (10' slider he had to walk around). Somewhere along the way, he lost them, so I'm looking for a pair of eccentric clamps with T-nuts. Maybe some of you Air Clamp afficianados Could help out? Thanks, Mike Ward
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Hello everyone, has anyone used these tapes to attach veneers to plywood or MDF?These tapes are not sold in Turkey and if anyone has used them and is happy with them, I plan to bring them from abroad. Thanks in advance for your answers. -- Burak Gürer Türkiye (owner Ad 951-K740S-FB710) gurerwoodcraft/Instagram
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Hi All A bit of a shot in the dark here but I’m looking for a .stl file (or 3d printing compatible file) for the end cap of the 700 series sliding table. I’ve attached a picture below. I can of course put this in cad if I have to but was hoping a file already exists somewhere. I did check the file section and searched the posts for one. thanks Andy
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I keep being tempted to treat myself to a replacement for my old and rattly 4-speed Denford Viceroy pillar drill and the recent mention of the Nova drills has restarted the internal debate. My current drill press enables me to make perfectly adequate holes so I'm having difficulty justifying a change, both to myself and SWMBA ... I think it's more wanting a new toy rather than needing to replace the existing one. Anyway, I'd welcome and comments and observations on the Nova Viking and Voyage drills because their sparkly gizzmos are calling to me ;-) Dave (in the UK)
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Zero Clearance for Hammer K3 crosscut fence
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This design may be applicable to Felder machines as well. Note that my Hammer K3 is a short stroke and has a slider 49" in length. This is sufficient for my needs, which is building solid wood furniture (the K3 does not need to work with ply panels). One consequence here is that the crosscut fence is at the start of the slider, rather than the far end. For the past few years the ZC for the crosscut fence, made from UHMW, looked like this ... This has worked pretty well for the most part - it is possible to re-set the zero clearance after removing and returning the fence, but every-now-and-then this is lost and the fixture needs to be packed with a shim to regain the fit. This is what I wanted to address, that is, with a replaceable consumable section. This is what I have come up with ... The result looks like this ... Simply a section of MDF added below the UHMW body held with screws ... Attachment to the fence is with a glued in and tapped UHMW insert ... The previous insert was modified by sawing away the lower section and using this as a template for replacements ... Make the MDF overlong and cut to exact size ... Hope this helps, and perhaps others might post their solutions. Regards from Perth Derek
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Post
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Hello- I own a Hammer A3-31 and would like to POST. My name is Brian and I'm a hobbyist woodworker from CT.
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Linseed oil paint?
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It’s cold and I’m looking at the internet too much. Anyone have experience using linseed oil paint? I’m thinking of giving it a try instead of milk paint on some painted kitchen cabinets. I’m wondering how well it would resist water and food stains that tend to afflict cabinets. I’ve used milk paint quite a bit—the type you mix up from powder. I find it hard to mix but it does make a painted effect that’s hard to get with anything else. Maybe I’ll order a sample and see what it’s like. Bird Cupps
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Hi there guys, I'm building a cupboard for my c flux 3 dust extractor to keep the noise down. I'm looking for suggestions on how to keep the noise down while having a return air back into my work shed. I'm was thinking of baffle system - see my sketch attached. I'm also worried if I don't get it right, it will amplify the bass sound acting like a complex baffles in a subwoofer speaker design. - C flux has quite a deep sound. Anyone have any idea for return air? Attached are a few images - note- I have not finished boxing in the space ( boxing around beam and up to brick wall etc. I will seal everything The extraction will go through the brick wall into the 6" PVC(can just see it in the pic.) Chris.
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