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Zero Clearance for Hammer K3 crosscut fence


 

This design may be applicable to Felder machines as well.?
?
Note that my Hammer K3 is a short stroke and has a slider 49" in length. This is sufficient for my needs, which is building solid wood furniture (the K3 does not need to work with ply panels). One consequence here is that the crosscut fence is at the start of the slider, rather than the far end.?
?
?
For the past few years the ZC for the crosscut fence, made from UHMW, looked like this ...
?
?
This has worked pretty well for the most part - it is possible to re-set the zero clearance after removing and returning the fence, but every-now-and-then this is lost and the fixture needs to be packed with a shim to regain the fit. This is what I wanted to address, that is, with a replaceable consumable section. This is what I have come up with ...
?
The result looks like this ...
?
?
Simply a section of MDF added below the UHMW body held with screws ...
?
?
Attachment to the fence is with a glued in and tapped UHMW insert ...
?
?
The previous insert was modified by sawing away the lower section and using this as a template for replacements ...
?
?
Make the MDF overlong and cut to exact size ...
?
?
Hope this helps, and perhaps others might post their solutions.
?
Regards from Perth
?
Derek
?
?


 

Interesting solution. I also have gone around with this and came up with your first solution.? I would be interested in other solutions.? Did you make the parallel fence? I would be interested in it's design.

Kevin


On Sun, Jan 19, 2025, 10:46?PM Derek Cohen via <derekcohen=[email protected]> wrote:
This design may be applicable to Felder machines as well.?
?
Note that my Hammer K3 is a short stroke and has a slider 49" in length. This is sufficient for my needs, which is building solid wood furniture (the K3 does not need to work with ply panels). One consequence here is that the crosscut fence is at the start of the slider, rather than the far end.?
?
?
For the past few years the ZC for the crosscut fence, made from UHMW, looked like this ...
?
?
This has worked pretty well for the most part - it is possible to re-set the zero clearance after removing and returning the fence, but every-now-and-then this is lost and the fixture needs to be packed with a shim to regain the fit. This is what I wanted to address, that is, with a replaceable consumable section. This is what I have come up with ...
?
The result looks like this ...
?
?
Simply a section of MDF added below the UHMW body held with screws ...
?
?
Attachment to the fence is with a glued in and tapped UHMW insert ...
?
?
The previous insert was modified by sawing away the lower section and using this as a template for replacements ...
?
?
Make the MDF overlong and cut to exact size ...
?
?
Hope this helps, and perhaps others might post their solutions.
?
Regards from Perth
?
Derek
?
?


 

You can 3D print a unit for not a lot of money and easy to change out and replace. I already designed ones for the 700 series and format machines with the larger fence. Pretty sure I posted the STL files already. If I had the dimensions or section of hammer fence it would be easy... surely we have a HAmmer owner that has a 3D printer and could make them, at least to prototype and then post the stl for others.

Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
lambtoolworks.com


On Monday, January 20, 2025 at 12:15:52 PM MST, Kevin Wells via groups.io <kjwells54@...> wrote:


Interesting solution. I also have gone around with this and came up with your first solution.? I would be interested in other solutions.? Did you make the parallel fence? I would be interested in it's design.

Kevin


On Sun, Jan 19, 2025, 10:46?PM Derek Cohen via <derekcohen=[email protected]> wrote:
This design may be applicable to Felder machines as well.?
?
Note that my Hammer K3 is a short stroke and has a slider 49" in length. This is sufficient for my needs, which is building solid wood furniture (the K3 does not need to work with ply panels). One consequence here is that the crosscut fence is at the start of the slider, rather than the far end.?
?
?
For the past few years the ZC for the crosscut fence, made from UHMW, looked like this ...
?
?
This has worked pretty well for the most part - it is possible to re-set the zero clearance after removing and returning the fence, but every-now-and-then this is lost and the fixture needs to be packed with a shim to regain the fit. This is what I wanted to address, that is, with a replaceable consumable section. This is what I have come up with ...
?
The result looks like this ...
?
?
Simply a section of MDF added below the UHMW body held with screws ...
?
?
Attachment to the fence is with a glued in and tapped UHMW insert ...
?
?
The previous insert was modified by sawing away the lower section and using this as a template for replacements ...
?
?
Make the MDF overlong and cut to exact size ...
?
?
Hope this helps, and perhaps others might post their solutions.
?
Regards from Perth
?
Derek
?
?


 

Hi Kevin
?
The parallel guide was inspired by several, and my build is here: ?
?
Hi Brian
?
I wish I both owned a printer and had the patience to read its manual to run it. But you are so right - this is an easy operation for a printer.?

Regards from Perth
?
Derek


 

Thanks Derek. Nice explanation of your build. It is very well thought out and relatively simple to build. Thanks for sharing.

Kevin


On Mon, Jan 20, 2025 at 4:03?PM Derek Cohen via <derekcohen=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Kevin
?
The parallel guide was inspired by several, and my build is here: ?
?
Hi Brian
?
I wish I both owned a printer and had the patience to read its manual to run it. But you are so right - this is an easy operation for a printer.?

Regards from Perth
?
Derek


 

My solution looks very much like Derek's first solution as well.? I can't remember if I saw Derek's solution before or after making mine, but the odds are good I saw his first and used that for inspiration.
?
There is a 3D printable solution that someone made; I might have found this link via this forum.? I plan on printing this and trying it out after I'm done with my current project.


 

Steve, that is a much better design than mine! I wish I had a printer ... sigh.
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Regards from Perth
?
Derek