I am the recipient of Bill Belanger's prototype hose adapter.? As he says, the prototype was on the thin side but it has held up well under moderate usage for almost a year.??
After installation, I had proposed a couple of tweaks to make the adapter easier and more secure to install as well as strengthening the walls.? The trick to strengthening is to add the additional thickness on the outside of the rectangular section and the inside of the cylindrical section.? The rectangle needs to go over the chute and the cylinder goes inside the hose.??
The 45° bend prevents hose contact with the side of the case when the arbor is tilted.??
I am on vacation this week.? I will try to find my original correspondence with Bill when I get home Sunday and will post an update.
Jim Fleming
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1a.?
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Re: B3 won’t switch off
From: Morgan Skinner
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2025 06:40:38 PST
Imran,
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Thanks again for your help here. Felder have provided me with the attached, which may be the correct schematic, but my machine is 2014 and this schematic is from 2019. The chap from
Felder mentioned he thought it might be the brake board. I’m not sure if my B3 has a brake, I can’t say I’ve used a saw that does, and mine (when it does decide to shut off) doesn’t seem to spin down any slower than the other table saws I have owned which
most definitely didn’t have a brake.
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Anyway, he mentioned this…
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I have picked up your ticket with regards to your hammer B3P and looking at the information on the ticket I would suggest the brake board is being temperamental
and needs to be looked at.
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The brake board is labelled up either 1B1 or 2B1 and is shown on the attached wiring diagram, there is a small led light on this and I would be interested
to see what that light is doing. Stable or flashing.
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The reason I don’t think this is anything to do with the brake (even if I have one) is that I’d expect there to be an NVR switch/circuit in a machine of this quality, and whilst
I appreciate that once running, if there was a brake then that could possibly impede the shutdown, I’d also expect that removing the power entirely and then plugging it in again would not make the saw start up again.
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Anyway, I’ve attached the schematic and if I do happen to get another one I’ll pass that on.
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Cheers,
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Morgan
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2a.?
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Re: Replacement of internal dust hose is K3 Hammer slider
From: Bill Belanger
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2025 08:05:28 PST
? 
I printed this a year ago for a fellow who says it has worked out well for him. It’s not my design and I can no longer find the STL file and I don’t remember where I found it. My plan was to redesign it to make it stronger because it’s a bit flimsy, but I believe I could just print it with more infill (thicker) to solve that. I’m on vacation now but I’ll be back in 2 weeks and I can keep working on this if there is interest. We were going to work on improving the attachment.
Bill Belanger?
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2c.?
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Re: Replacement of internal dust hose is K3 Hammer slider
From: Bill Belanger
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2025 09:14:59 PST
Chris; Negative? I have the print file for the Dremel 3D45 and that’s it. Like I said, I can print another but I had planned on redesigning it so I didn’t do any more than print it and had a fellow on the FOG try it. He reached out to me today and said I should put this info out there because it worked for him.
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2d.?
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Re: Replacement of internal dust hose is K3 Hammer slider
From: rodsheridan
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2025 10:03:29 PST
Hi Christopher, as a tech I find it a better solution than adding another part to a machine.
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The hose from Felder comes pre-formed, which I've used many times.
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I guess it's all just a point of view, I'm glad you solved your issue.
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regards, Rod.
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2f.?
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Re: Replacement of internal dust hose is K3 Hammer slider
From: Christopher Rozycki
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2025 11:46:42 PST
Rod, Thanks for that information, and maybe I will consider that option in the future. What really surprised me was how quickly the original Felder/hammer hose completely broke down. It was riddled with holes after only 5 years of very light use.? The saw and planer are connected to a very efficient and powerful cyclone dust collector. It seems that with heavy use I would need to replace the Hammer hose frequently. Chris Rozycki?
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2g.?
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Re: Replacement of internal dust hose is K3 Hammer slider
From: Christopher Rozycki
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2025 11:46:44 PST
Bill, Thanks for the reply! My machine is a 2018 Hammer C3-31. My assumption is that all of these sliding bed table saws have the same dust exhaust, but that could be wrong.? Assuming the dust exhaust specs are the same, do you have any thoughts on what you might charge to print one for me? Having replaced the original dust collection hose, I know how difficult it is, and how poorly designed this system is.? I think your design fix is an excellent solution. Let’s keep talking. Chris |
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2h.?
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Re: Replacement of internal dust hose is K3 Hammer slider
From: Brian Lamb
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2025 12:21:08 PST
Felder dust hose is a consumable. You will have to replace every two to three years at best. If you want longer lasting, buy something local, but most likely it won't be near as flexible.
On Thursday, January 30, 2025 at 12:46:51 PM MST, Christopher Rozycki via <croz1950= [email protected]> wrote:
Bill, Thanks for the reply! My machine is a 2018 Hammer C3-31. My assumption is that all of these sliding bed table saws have the same dust exhaust, but that could be wrong.? Assuming the dust exhaust specs are the same, do you have any thoughts on what you might charge to print one for me? Having replaced the original dust collection hose, I know how difficult it is, and how poorly designed this system is.? I think your design fix is an excellent solution. Let’s keep talking. Chris Chris; Negative? I have the print file for the Dremel 3D45 and that’s it. Like I said, I can print another but I had planned on redesigning it so I didn’t do any more than print it and had a fellow on the FOG try it. He reached out to me today and said I should put this info out there because it worked for him.
Bill Belanger On Jan 30, 2025, at 12:56, Christopher Rozycki via <croz1950=[email protected]> wrote:
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Bill! I for one am interested. Do you have the specs?? <image2.png>
I printed this a year ago for a fellow who says it has worked out well for him. It’s not my design and I can no longer find the STL file and I don’t remember where I found it. My plan was to redesign it to make it stronger because it’s a bit flimsy, but I believe I could just print it with more infill (thicker) to solve that. I’m on vacation now but I’ll be back in 2 weeks and I can keep working on this if there is interest. We were going to work on improving the attachment.
Bill Belanger?
? [Edited Message Follows]
CAUTION!!?
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I was in the saw this morning, replacing the old now-stiff & brittle 4" internal hose between the 3D printer coupler & the exhaust port at the bottom front. When the saw is tilted, beyond about 40 degrees, the hose gets trapped between the motor and the side wall, at which point the hose resists bending, and it is quite hard to set the tilt all the way to 45 degrees. A rib on the side wall protrudes about an inch, which also adds to the impedance.?
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See the illustrative pics.
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<PXL_20250129_195730323.jpg> Blade at standard tilt, from above
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<PXL_20250129_200936437.jpg> Blade at standard tilt, from below front.
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<PXL_20250129_195526666.jpg> Blade at >40 deg, from below. Hose gets jammed against side wall & rib.?
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This problem must occur with the standard hose setup, too, because there's really no room for the hose between the side wall and the motor when the blade is at extreme tilt. Which is why the original hose kept falling off in the first place.
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Anyway, it is unfortunate, but perhaps not a deal breaker for everyone: I apparently have not used the saw tilt beyond 40 degrees for a year. I usually use my 10" miter saw for 45 deg angled cuts.?
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One possible solution is to use as flexible a hose as you can. The copper wire hose was the only 4" hose in stock at the nearest tool store yesterday; an all-plastic more flexible one would have been a better choice.?
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Another solution is to modify the coupler design so that the round exhaust points directly downward from the rectangular interface and perhaps a bit toward the inside of the saw casing -- ie, towards the motor. The coupler needs to be kept as small as possible to keep it from fowling the max tilt position.?
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Further investigation shows when the saw is tilted fully, there's at most one inch distance between the bottom of the trapezoidal metal dust collection device and the side wall in the saw. The saw was never designed properly to accommodate the dust collection hose when tilted to 45 degrees. No wonder my original duct hose kept falling off!?
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So if you choose to use the 3D printed coupler here, DO NOT TILT THE SAW >40 degrees. You will risk breaking the coupler and damaging the hose. I think this probably holds true for standard dust collection hose mounting too unless a very flexible hose is used.?
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Jim Fleming
