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I don’t have any tooling for adding hardwood edging to plywood. I have just glued a piece in past. I did pickup a MFK at an auction few yrs ago but have not used it yet but it should allow me to flush trim the edging.
So question to the collective; are the solutions offered, V-Groove is what I am most intrigued about, any good?
Which one you like best?
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I just glue them - but i do use a bit that creates a very slight concave front of the plywood/mdf i case it swells due to the glue. ? the hardwood rests right on the upper and lower edges. ? I think it helps a lot.
I was going to set up a heater bar for my last project but did not - the heater bar can be used to heat the wood strip while camped and my understanding is it reduces the drying time to about 10-15min. ??
On Sun, Jan 19, 2025 at 4:36?PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: I don’t have any tooling for adding hardwood edging to plywood. I have just glued a piece in past. I did pickup a MFK at an auction few yrs ago but have not used it yet but it should allow me to flush trim the edging.
So question to the collective; are the solutions offered, V-Groove is what I am most intrigued about, any good?
Which one you like best?
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Michael Marsico
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Hi Imran, I had knives made for a Euroblock that worked quite well.? I'll find a pic and send them to you,
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Brent
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Dimensional edging or thick banding?
Hi Imran, I had knives made for a Euroblock that worked quite well.? I'll find a pic and send them to you,
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Brent
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Thanks Michael, Brent and Jared.
Jared, I am not certain what dimensional edging means but I see following cases:
1) Wide edging as in front of a shelf to add strength
2) Minimal where its purpose is to only hide ply edge without making the edging obvious. This is where V-groove looks attractive but I wonder if it only works well (durable) with plywood with thick exterior plys.
For curved edges solid wood banding is the only option I know of but I am not aware of any options where a profile and counter profile is used.
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On Jan 19, 2025, at 5:42?PM, Jared Sankovich via groups.io <Sankovichj@...> wrote: ? Dimensional edging or thick banding?
Hi Imran, I had knives made for a Euroblock that worked quite well.? I'll find a pic and send them to you,
?
Brent
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For thick (1.5-20mm) glue with bandy clamps or painters tape till it sets, then I have done the half-inch-shy mod to my 0 degree MFK bench and have a dedicated 8mm *downcut bit. Can easily trim up-to ~20mm thick edge banding perfectly.
-Karl
Edit- Upcut to Downcut
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For structural edging I cut a tongue and groove with a 8-16mm adjustable groover.
On Sun, Jan 19, 2025, 6:59 PM Karl (@Bombaman) via <bombamanwa= [email protected]> wrote: For thick (1.5-20mm) glue with bandy clamps or painters tape till it sets, then I have done the half-inch-shy mod to my 0 degree MFK bench and have a dedicated 8mm upcut bit. Can easily trim up-to ~20mm thick edge banding perfectly.
-Karl
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No special bits required, just glue and clamp them. I have a heater bar I set up when I have a ton to do, but for a cabinet or two I don't even bother. Just clamp 3 or 4 parts at a time.?
Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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I just glue and clamp also. 20 years ago doing whole house projects we had a Marunaka edge press with a heater bar. That was pretty slick for this. I recently built a commercial bar and had a few cabinets. I just set up 2 clamping stations and would press 2 at a time to avoid having a lot of clamps.
Heating the ply with an iron. Low tech but worked for the small quantity and I was able to keep gluing and clamping.
Double coat the glue on the ply. Flush trimmed on the shaper.
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Karl, Jason and Joe,
Thanks for sharing. Looks like pretty much everyone is low tech, I don’t mean that in a negative way. I am pretty sure if the cutters were a time saver or offered an overwhelming advantage, we would have heard by now. So soldier on with simple, good old glue-on wood edging.
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On Jan 19, 2025, at 9:29?PM, Joe Calhoon via groups.io <joecalhoon@...> wrote: ? I just glue and clamp also. 20 years ago doing whole house projects we had a Marunaka edge press with a heater bar. That was pretty slick for this. I recently built a commercial bar and had a few cabinets. I just set up 2 clamping stations and would press 2 at a time to avoid having a lot of clamps.Heating the ply with an iron. Low tech but worked for the small quantity and I was able to keep gluing and clamping.Double coat the glue on the ply. Flush trimmed on the shaper. <IMG_9145.jpeg> <IMG_9146.jpeg>
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The time saver would be Lamello Zeta P2 with tenso P10 or P14 depending on the thickness of the hardwood edging :)
James
On Sun, Jan 19, 2025 at 10:34?PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Karl, Jason and Joe,
Thanks for sharing. Looks like pretty much everyone is low tech, I don’t mean that in a negative way. I am pretty sure if the cutters were a time saver or offered an overwhelming advantage, we would have heard by now. So soldier on with simple, good old glue-on wood edging. ? I just glue and clamp also. 20 years ago doing whole house projects we had a Marunaka edge press with a heater bar. That was pretty slick for this. I recently built a commercial bar and had a few cabinets. I just set up 2 clamping stations and would press 2 at a time to avoid having a lot of clamps.Heating the ply with an iron. Low tech but worked for the small quantity and I was able to keep gluing and clamping.Double coat the glue on the ply. Flush trimmed on the shaper. <IMG_9145.jpeg> <IMG_9146.jpeg>
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James,
I am considering getting that for this project, primarily for the cabinet cases. I like the no clamp aspect the most. I may contact you privately, if I get serious.
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On Jan 19, 2025, at 11:01?PM, James Zhu via groups.io <james.zhu2@...> wrote: ? The time saver would be Lamello Zeta P2 with tenso P10 or P14 depending on the thickness of the hardwood edging :)
James On Sun, Jan 19, 2025 at 10:34?PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Karl, Jason and Joe,
Thanks for sharing. Looks like pretty much everyone is low tech, I don’t mean that in a negative way. I am pretty sure if the cutters were a time saver or offered an overwhelming advantage, we would have heard by now. So soldier on with simple, good old glue-on wood edging. ? I just glue and clamp also. 20 years ago doing whole house projects we had a Marunaka edge press with a heater bar. That was pretty slick for this. I recently built a commercial bar and had a few cabinets. I just set up 2 clamping stations and would press 2 at a time to avoid having a lot of clamps.Heating the ply with an iron. Low tech but worked for the small quantity and I was able to keep gluing and clamping.Double coat the glue on the ply. Flush trimmed on the shaper. <IMG_9145.jpeg> <IMG_9146.jpeg>
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For thin strips on smaller components, I just glue and clamp too but the mechanical connection for thick/deep banding is nice especially on long pieces.? Just gives you one less thing to think about.? I use the shaper for flush trimming after the glue dries as I don't do enough of it to justify a lipping planer.
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For some reason I'm having trouble picturing how one would flush from the edge banding on a panel with a shaper. Could you guys elaborate a bit on how you do that??
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Do you just put a spiral head with a bearing on the shaper, then stand the board on the front edge (where the banding is) and freehand feed it against the bearing?
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Larry Long Neck
Just a noob trying to learn the ways of wood
> Making youtube videos now!
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Larry, there's more than one way, but the best way I've found is flat on the table actually, but up on a flat, false bed with the height of the cutter precisely set to remove just the lip.? With the false bed as close to the cutter/lip as possible its easy to use the power feeder for accurate and consistent results.? Often works better with the spurr removed if you're using a rebate block but only if your insert has enough side/relief grind.? If you know what you're doing you can set this up for a climb cut which can give better results as there is support where the knife leaves the wood, but that should only be done if you know how to set that up safely.
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Karl,
Good to?hear the?0 degree base modification works,?I have not modified my base. The 16mm cut limit on the 0 degree base is kind of stupid, I guess Festool wants people to buy their ridiculously priced router bit.
I think Paul Marcel (half inch shy) recommended the 8mm downcut bit?.
I would think a downcut bit will produce a clean cut. Can you tell me what 8mm upcut bit you use?
Thanks,
James?
On Sun, Jan 19, 2025 at 6:59?PM Karl (@Bombaman) via <bombamanwa= [email protected]> wrote: For thick (1.5-20mm) glue with bandy clamps or painters tape till it sets, then I have done the half-inch-shy mod to my 0 degree MFK bench and have a dedicated 8mm upcut bit. Can easily trim up-to ~20mm thick edge banding perfectly.
-Karl
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Brent,
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The false bed method actually sounds really nice and easy to set up. I have a whitehill z4 shearing rebate head that I can try that with. I'll have to test with and without the spurs.
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Larry Long Neck
Just a noob trying to learn the ways of wood
> Making youtube videos now!
??? -
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This is heavy maple banding on some longer bits that were quite easy to glue up.? Before and after flush trimming with the above technique.? If you get really close, and your materials are good, any imperfections in results will be easy to sand away during your regular sanding process.
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B
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Photos got reversed, top is post, bottom is pre.
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James, you are correct, I just checked my bit and it is indeed a downcut.
-Karl
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imran
Jason Holtz
Larry Long Neck