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I am thinking of installing a roof rack on my 1995 EVC with Winnebago poptop (to carry kayaks mostly). Planning to use the Yakima SideLoader Brackets: https://yakima.com/products/side-loader together with the Yakima 1A Raingutter Towers https://yakima.com/products/1a-raingutter-4-pack I am a bit worried that it might lead to stress cracks or other damage in the Winnebago ABS plastic. Also not exactly thrilled by drilling holes into the poptop for the bolts.. Has anyone used that combination on a EVC? How did it work out for you? Or do you have better suggestions? Wolfgang

This is a re-post. For some reason the text did not go through, only the pics made it. Hello EV folks, I am about to embark on a poptop repair/restoration project and thought I'd seek out any experience any of you may have doing something similar. As most of us know the Winnebego ABS plastic has a limited life span, especially if it gets exposed to lots of UV's and is not stored under cover. Mine in a 2002, about 2 years ago a 4 inch crack appeared on the side wall of the poptop midway. I was able to use some plastic weld to arrest the crack and keep it from getting worse. I'll include some pics to give a better depiction. The crack repair was not pretty, but it seems to be holding up. Unfortunately, more cracks have now appeared in all four corners. They are very small at this point and I have used some plastic weld to stop them for now. This got me thinking that it could be beneficial for the life span of the poptop if I did a refinish job using a marine top coat. I'd like to get 5 more years out of the EVC and the poptop appears to be the weak link. Unfortunately, I don't have a garage to store it in, so UV's are taking a toll as each year goes by. Even though I live in Oregon UV's still are causing annual deterioration. My hope is that sanding the top, applying a primer, then painting on the top coat will add some strength to the shell and stall the deterioration. There is a fairly new 1 part top coat product made by Interlux called Toplac Plus. They claim that applying it with a brush or roller will be OK, as it has good flow out and will give a smooth finish. Nice thing is that this product has 6 off white colors and one looks to be a good math. It will take some flattening agent to dull down the high gloss finish. This will be a fair amount of work and want to make sure it will be worth the effort. Two things that occur to me: 1. Is that the poptop seal might be a real challenge to reinstall if the coating layers add much thickness to the poptop shell. I had a pretty hard time installing a new seal several years ago, when a little residual adhesive was stuck on the edge of the poptop. 2. I'd like to sand down the plastic welds, for a nice look, but fear it will weaken the weld strength. The toothpaste look ain't so pretty. So, if you have done this job or something similar I'd appreciate hearing of your experiences. It seems like this is a universal issue for all EVC poptop owners. How do we get more life out of these ABS poptops? They are too expensive to replace! So do they just become parts vehicles when the poptop finally gives out? Anyway, here are some pics. Thanks for any experience/advice that you can share with me. Andrew 2002 EVC, 185K mi.

As many others have discovered, the PCV valve diaphragm for the AES motor fails most likely due to the harsh environment and/or age of the component. New replacements are essentially non-existent and crazy expensive if you find one. A used component, if you can find one, may fail in short order again given the age/construction of the component. In my case, the PCV valve failed in two ways. First, the vacuum line/side of the PCV was compromised allowing the suction of engine gases into the intake manifold causing a lean condition. The computer compensated by adding more fuel to correct the lean condition as measured by the front O2 sensor. Gas mileage had suffered for some time and I was unable to track down the cause as there was no check engine light nor was there a noticeable drivability issue. The partial load/long term fuel trim was running at 12.5% which is well above the specification of -5 to +5%. I replaced the original O2 sensors (140k miles) as their response were a bit sluggish and thought it may be contributing to the problem but there was no improvement in fuel trim. I then replaced most of the vacuum lines which were in fair shape but not terrible. In replacing the vacuum line to the PCV valve, I happened to check the PCV operation by sucking on the vac line to it and found the vac diaphragm had failed. I then plugged off the vac line and nipple to the valve. Bingo, fuel trims corrected and ended up in the range of 0-1% and the idle seems slightly smoother. A further check of the PCV valve found that engine side diaphragm was also free flowing engine gases to the intake tube/throttle body in vacuum/load conditions which likely messes with the fuel trim in load conditions. Since replacement PCV valves are hard to come by, following is my fix that might be of interest to others. I wanted a dependable quality made part that was easily serviceable and/or replaceable along with no modifications to the original configuration should a quality OE style part become available (highly unlikely). I settled on Toyota part #12204-20040 which fits various 3.0-3.3L engines from 2001-2006. It's compact, designed to be mounted horizontally, and for an engine approximately the same size as the 2.8L VR6. Here's some pics of my MacGyver configuration.

One of the major flaws in the Winnebago setup for EVCs is the lack of counter space. While remodeling my interior, it occurred to me that the simple solution (okay, not that simple) is to split the cover so that half of the cover can be used as a countertop at any given time as well as opening both sides if wanted. You'll need new piano hinges that work for each side. But it's pretty straight forward and the existing hardware works fine in keeping up each side. Also, a matching charcutier board helps to move odds and ends around to the outside. Helps to put felt "feet" on it... Bob

On my 2000 Eurovan (12 valve engine), plugs, coil, and wires all replaced about 3 years / 8k miles ago. I just removed the six sparkplugs to see how things look: Plugs #1,3,5 look very similar to each other and, to my eye, look perfect. Plugs #2,4,6 look very similar to each other, but quite a bit darker. Any theory what could cause this? On the VR6, what do cylinders 1,3,5 vs. 2,4,6 have in common?

Hey there, Electrical engineering expertise sought ? I installed a Starvent roof top vent fan in my 2000 EVC. (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B66Z77X6/ref=pe_386300_440135490_TE_simp_item_image?th=1) Got the 12 volts from the adjacent dome light in the pop top. The 12 v DC source comes from the deep cycle marine house battery, not the cab battery. Here’s the issue I’m experiencing: All works great as long as I’m not tapped into shore power. When I plug into shore power, the fan stays on for a while, but at some point shuts down. Once it shuts down, I can’t get it to turn on again unless I unplug the shore power and revert to the DC house battery power. According to the manufacturer, the fan threshold voltage is between 10.5 -13.7v. I suspect that I’m getting some voltage fluctuations outside the threshold voltage that is making the fan’s controller shut down. I have no problems with any of the other DC "appliances" in the camper. Maybe there’s an issue with the converter (AC to DC) that charges the house battery when plugged into shore power? I haven’t hooked up my multimeter yet to see if I can determine the suspected voltage fluctuation. Any thoughts? Thanks, Pete 2000 EVC, ~107k

first of all, I want to say thanks for the many folks who chipped into sponsoring the list this year. we're on the legacy rate plan, and given our membership numbers, whether they're active or not, we'd pay about 20X our current rate at the latest pricing... regarding members: we have 4619 "active" members - but 3680 of them get no emails - web only. So it's hard to say how many of them actually hit the pages. regarding files and photos: it was not because our subscription lapsed, it was something I forgot about - I turned it off. (This is because at the time I was helping admin a non-profit site that was getting polluted by spam-link files.) I've turned them back on. if we start getting polluted I'll have to turn them off again. please limit the resolution of the photos you upload. We don't need print-resolution copies. I'll set a limit on the image size to some reasonable resolution. speaking of images, I guess some don't like the default "elephants" image I picked a long time ago. Given VW's propensity to threaten people using their logo and branding at the time, combined with having a vehicle that's a bit of an elephant at times... it seemed a reasonable choice. And not using the web interface very much, it just falls off may radar. For the moment, I've substituted a photo an EV keychain I 3d-printed a few years ago while testing a multi-material printer. I'll get around to updating it again though. I'll dig through the files and see what I can find. that's all for now. thanks again. good night and have a pleasant tomorrow.