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Hello, All, In order to aid in searching for a given subject, it would be helpful if you could please include one or more of the following hashtags at the end of your Subject line, if they apply. This list is current as of 10/25/19. #3D - Posts related to 3D printing #ARD - Posts related to Arduino single-board microcomputers #CAD - Posts related to CAD (Computer Aided Design) #CNC - Posts related to CNC (Computer Numerical Control) #CSS - Posts related to CSS (Constant Speed Control) in lathes #DRO - Posts related to DROs (Digital Readouts) #ESI - Posts related to ESI (Electronic Step Indexer) #GR - Posts related to Gear Reduction for the mini-lathe #LATHES - Posts related to lathes #MILLS - Posts related to milling machines #MISC - Posts related to miscellaneous subjects #MODS - Posts related to machine modifications #RELS - Posts related to RELS (Russian Electronic Lead Screw) Hashtags may be added quickly by selecting the appropriate ones under "Add Tags", the line now immediately following the Subject line. Please note that the 开云体育 system imposes a limit of five (5) hashtags per Subject. More will be added as becomes beneficial. Please feel free to suggest any that you think are useful. Thanks! -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA

hey folks , wondering if anyone here has one of these small Miller 2000 compressors , Probably sold for air brushes back in their time . I'm looking for a copy of a manual for them . One of mine needs oil & is missing a breather , I can deal with the breather , just not sure what kind of oil to put in it . thanks animal

Finally got my mill in my machine room & under power . Wondering if anyone here has come up with a DIY powerfeed that could be used on a mill . thanks animal

Hi all, First post... and I ask a question... ELS T8-1mm thread on the homemade CNC, should I use capture nuts both sides of the XY/XZ assembly? They say photo worth a 1,000 words so see attached. Should I use one side only or both? Obviously will be secured so the rotation os the stepper leads to linear motion. Intention is mill, wood and plastic not metal to this is strong enough. Regards, Dominic

Hi Dom Thanks for the info ref Stepper motor pulse. I live and learn. I have just finished work on a replacement shoe for a plastic sheet welding machine. Basically it?s an very large clothes iron that when the heated shoe runs along the 2 edge pieces to be joined it melts the plastic, then a special roller compresses the weld. Almost like my wife steaming out the wrinkles of my shirts on her ironing board. Typical use of the machine is the construction of pool covers or the manufacture of plastic curtains found on some of our commercial delivery trucks. I basically measured the old shoe and body, beaten up and drafted using my old Mastercam ver 8 dated 2002. 32 bit Win 7 I was using this same version when working for a living in those early days and after many trials and errors by using the same CD Rom disc, it now runs on my Win 10 so basically the 64 bit laptop runs the 32 bit programme. Problem being, during the load of the 32 bit programme onto the Win 10, I really can?t remember how I did it. Lesson learnt, I should of taken notes. Something about running in compatibility mode. Any hep from forum members greatly appreciated as soon I need to upgrade to Win 11. and just hoping the upgrade will automatically deal with running 32 bit programmes on 64 bit systems. Mastercam being a CAD/CAM programme, I can CAD draft and convert the shape to mill/lathe(wire cut machining ops and produce .nc or g codes without having to leave one programme to use another CAM programme. Enclosed are a couple of screenshots for yours and other forum members interest. The body contains a heating rod up to 400 C , the shoe or iron plate curves were profiled using Mastercam and as I already converted Weiss bench mill to 4 axis, not a problem to make. Once the 2 parts were machined I then silver soldered together. The material I used was phosphor bronze. Hope of interest. Cheers for now. All have a good week. -- John

Struggling a bit with the 9 tooth pinion gear cutting. I have only a Mod 2 12-13 T gear cutter. My problem being as i move the cutter into the blank pinion, the teeth wall between the teeth decreases, in fact they are looking like a wedge and will not mesh with the scroll gear teeth. see photo of the parts marked 2 3 The reason I think is even though I have twisted the indexer to 20 deg. (40 degrees inclusive angle) as the cutter moves in then the cutting diameter changes, the cutter dia is a standard 58 mm, the teeth are only 12 mm long. I think the the original pinion teeth of a chuck bought from a tool supplier see photo marked 1 were hobbed, or a special smaller dia gear cutter was used. There may be several ways around my problem, (a) to make a fly cutter tip with the involute form, thus greatly reducing the cutter circumference, the other option is (b) to CNC cut, When the X axis moves along the 12 mm then the Y axis will move out 4.386 mm, keeping the point of contact of the cutter circumference constant. I have also machined on the lathe new pinion blanks, making them longer as the other current problem being the cutter hits the collet locking ring even though I am hanging the blanks out of the collet as far as I dare. Once finished with the gear cutting, the blanks will be parted off to length and a square milled in for the chuck key. Photo shows marked 4, a double ended pinion blank, extra long for the collet holder to avoid the cutter hitting the serrated ring. marked as 2 , a aluminium proto before I attack LOL the phosphor bronze, already scrapped one piece, it was to short anyway. Any advise on how to get around this, then always welcome. -- John

Anyone done anything with these? https://github.com/jdesbonnet/RCWL-0516 I got a bunch and I’m also finding them overly sensitive or generating false positives. John D.

When I acquired my band saw a few years back it was in bad need of new tyres but the cost of two "big rubber bands" exceeded what I payed for the saw, so I adopted my usual stance on such matters and just ignored it. Now with the new printer and its large print bed I have a nice TPU tyre for around ?1.50! And people ask "what on earth do you need a 3D printer for?" Removed from the print bed and stretched a little the serpentine shape is unnoticeable. I'll have a go at fitting it next week and post the results.