ELS 1mm thread, should I use capture nuts both sides of the XY/XZ assembly
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Dom Baines M1KTA
Hi all,
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First post... and I ask a question...
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ELS T8-1mm thread on the homemade CNC, should I use capture nuts both sides of the XY/XZ? assembly?
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They say photo worth a 1,000 words so see attached. Should I use one side only or both? Obviously will be secured so the rotation os the stepper leads to linear motion.
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Intention is mill, wood and plastic not metal to this is strong enough.
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Regards,
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Dominic |
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Hi Dominic, Thanks for your first post, you now have been unmoderated.?
Please try and use the HASHTAG # format? where ever possible. This keeps subject posts filed all neat and tidy
If you do not see a relevant # to your posts then please yell out and I will oblige to slip one in.
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Seems like you are using typical 3D printer rods and T8 mm screws, are they single or multi start??
Have you considered fitting anti backlash screws, as I think they are of benefit to 3D?
printing if members like me, use the nozzle lift and filament retraction functions regularly and I could see a benefit for you
in any axis travel of your ELS machine. You must also be using Oldham (FLEX) couplings but they not visible in your recent photos.
Thanks
John Spain.
Owner.
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John |
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?I personally found that the anti backlash nuts worked good.
I had a bit of a job to "sync" the main M8 nut to the anti backlash nut the first time around, but got the hang of it.
The new Geeetech Mizar S 3D printers have the anti backlash nuts fitted as standard. The Mizar S 255 x 255 bed and 250 Z, auto levelling, magnetic bed plate,?
etc etc etc, I just LUV this machine, and for the selling price now equal to a night out at Mc Donald's with a kids and parents.
Again, I use a a default setting in Prusa slicer of filament reattraction and Z lift when crossing perimeters and layer changes.
These settings certainly help me eliminating 98% of the angel hairs when printing complex parts.
The photo shows my old Geeetech Prusa I3 lone, I built a Dial Indicator bracket that slipped over the X axis slide rod.to accurately dial in the table flatness
in X and Y.
Cheers
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John
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John |
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It’s best to capture the leadscrew to keep it stabilized.? Some folks don’t capture the lead screw and wonder why circles aren’t round. Have A Great Day?? Tracy Ranson On Sat, Aug 10, 2024 at 10:56?AM Dom Baines M1KTA via <dombaines=[email protected]> wrote:
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Hi John D
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Just added a few photos of the frame and usage of a Dial Indicator to check bed levelling into the DH files section.
I hope this clarifies things.
Basically send the printer to home, disengage the stepper drives and to check X move the indicator along the X rail,?
to check Y, position the the DI in several locations and move the Y table.
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Thanks
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John |
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Hi Dom
I understand it is a CNC router and not a 3D printer and or a mill.
What CAD/CAM will you be using?
Hashtag #CNC already available. Take a look at some of the existing files and photos when time is available to you-
I will move your posts to the relevant # within a few days if I can remember how to do it. LOL.
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Nema 17? 0.9 degree ? Is this pulse a requirement for you and is controlled by some form of divider in the firmware?
Normally steppers are 1.8 degrees per pulse, 200 pulses per total spindle revolution, well that?s what I have always been used to, Nema 17 and Nema 23,
I learn something new everyday even at 79 years young. LOL.
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It?s great to have you on board, please keep us all updated of your project progress.?
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Thanks
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John |
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HI Dom.
The DI photos were sent to open up conversations from you and forum members of how to level the mill bed to the?
X and Y axis and maintain a parallel level face of the end mill / router bit to the workpiece.
Your original photos were not? clear on how the bed plays an integral part of the machine.
Is the bed static and the spindle moves along the X and Y rods.?
Does the Z axis have double screws, how will you "sync" the 2 stepper motors without a reference indicator?
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I have an interest on your designs as I am planning to make a similar "CNC router myself,
and possibly a "core " type with 4 x corner Z axis stepper motors.?
So some form of DI will be needed to level the bed and check the "sync" of the 4 x motors.
I am considering using a GT 2560 board and Marlin as the operating system.
The early " cartesian" type 3D printers have the nozzle move along in X direction along a rail, the Y direction?
is the movement of the table. The use of trapping a bit of paper under the nozzle and adjusting 4 corner screws
to get the bed level and that just did not suit me.
Basically I replaced the heater bed support 4 x corner spring loaded screw/wing nuts and then I accurately machined 4? x delrin 20 mm dia bushing blocks
and slipped these between the bed and heater plate, and with the use of shim under these posts with the DI I managed to dial in the?
bed parallel within 0.07 mm. over 200 mm x 200 mm in? X and Y directions.? Good enough.
If the bed level did drift after a long print, normally due to the Z axis screws then it was a simple case of adjusting the 2 x Z axis stepper motors while the machine was turned off. again using the DI.?
Naturally all this above verbiage has become redundant with new 3D printing technology of Auto levelling.
More photos during your mill build would be appreciated by me and I am sure other forum members.
?Thanks
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John |
John Lindo
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