|
Finally got my mill in my machine room & under power . Wondering if
anyone here has come up with a DIY powerfeed that could be used on a mill .
thanks
animal
|
Does your mill have a knee or does the head assembly move? That's easier than moving the quill and leaves the quill as a manual option.
There are all sorts of ways of doing this. For the longest time I had a stepper motor on the knee shaft that I ran from one of my ELS units. I could set zero where I was milling and then if I wanted to do a 0.010" cut just move the knee by that distance.
A friend of mine with the same type of mill just added a DC motor with a variable power supply and a couple of toothed belts and uses it to avoid major tedious cranking operations.
Or, start thinking about CNC now and start the conversion. Just do the Z axis to start. Whatever controller you use add a pendant with an MPG and now you are on the way with adequate control.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On
Behalf Of mike allen
Sent: November 2, 2024 10:27 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [digitalhobbyist] Diy Powerfeed for mill
? Finally got my mill in my machine room & under power . Wondering if
anyone here has come up with a DIY powerfeed that could be used on a mill .
thanks
animal
|
??? Sorry Forgot to mention , ye it's a knee mill I was told it
was purchased new in the 80's . It Came from KBC tool's . I got it
from the original owner whose work was 95 % plastic , no steel
& some aluminum . He made some kind of optics stuff .
thanks
?animal
On 11/2/24 10:48 PM, John Dammeyer
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Does your mill have a knee or does the head assembly move? That's easier than moving the quill and leaves the quill as a manual option.
There are all sorts of ways of doing this. For the longest time I had a stepper motor on the knee shaft that I ran from one of my ELS units. I could set zero where I was milling and then if I wanted to do a 0.010" cut just move the knee by that distance.
A friend of mine with the same type of mill just added a DC motor with a variable power supply and a couple of toothed belts and uses it to avoid major tedious cranking operations.
Or, start thinking about CNC now and start the conversion. Just do the Z axis to start. Whatever controller you use add a pendant with an MPG and now you are on the way with adequate control.
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On
Behalf Of mike allen
Sent: November 2, 2024 10:27 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [digitalhobbyist] Diy Powerfeed for mill
? Finally got my mill in my machine room & under power . Wondering if
anyone here has come up with a DIY powerfeed that could be used on a mill .
thanks
animal
|
Hit send too fast . The knee is the one that I will probably
convert first . I had my chest cracked 7 years back & thinks
like raising/lowering the knee reminds me that that work\was done
to me . I have one of those electric seat motors , but i don't
think it has enough power for this . I think my next plan is to
remove the table & go down to the knee mechanism & clean,
lube & adjust my way back up to the table .? I would be
interested to see how ya / yer bud did the Stepper? & DC motor
install .
thanks
animal
On 11/2/24 11:19 PM, mike allen wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
??? Sorry Forgot to mention , ye it's a knee mill I was told it
was purchased new in the 80's . It Came from KBC tool's . I got
it from the original owner whose work was 95 % plastic , no
steel & some aluminum . He made some kind of optics stuff .
thanks
?animal
On 11/2/24 10:48 PM, John Dammeyer
wrote:
Does your mill have a knee or does the head assembly move? That's easier than moving the quill and leaves the quill as a manual option.
There are all sorts of ways of doing this. For the longest time I had a stepper motor on the knee shaft that I ran from one of my ELS units. I could set zero where I was milling and then if I wanted to do a 0.010" cut just move the knee by that distance.
A friend of mine with the same type of mill just added a DC motor with a variable power supply and a couple of toothed belts and uses it to avoid major tedious cranking operations.
Or, start thinking about CNC now and start the conversion. Just do the Z axis to start. Whatever controller you use add a pendant with an MPG and now you are on the way with adequate control.
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On
Behalf Of mike allen
Sent: November 2, 2024 10:27 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [digitalhobbyist] Diy Powerfeed for mill
? Finally got my mill in my machine room & under power . Wondering if
anyone here has come up with a DIY powerfeed that could be used on a mill .
thanks
animal
|
Here’s a photo of the original parts.? Thrust bearing at the bevel gear end set the end play.? The shaft sat in the cast iron and there was dramatic end play but then it was designed to be turned slowly by hand. ? At the gear end the thrust bearings pressed against the gear and the cast iron.? I replaced the cast iron side with an bearing instead of a bushing. ? At the crank end I replaced the bushing with bearings and spacers and took out the end play to the bevel gear.? Now I can spin this to get 150 IPM on the knee which is scary fast. ? First trial was with a 650 oz-in stepper motor with 4:1 reduction.? If I was lucky I got 10 IPM before the motor locked up.? Stepper motors cannot turn fast.? Changing to a 1200 oz-in motor gave me 25 IPM and that worked until the GECKO controller developed corrosion on the terminal connector and failed. ? From there I changed out the motor to a 750W AC Servo good to 3000 RPM and now have 150 IPM. ? Eventually I’ll drive the vertical screw directly to reduce backlash but for now it’s been pretty good. John ? ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of mike allen
Sent: November 2, 2024 11:26 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] Diy Powerfeed for mill? Hit send too fast . The knee is the one that I will probably convert first . I had my chest cracked 7 years back & thinks like raising/lowering the knee reminds me that that work\was done to me . I have one of those electric seat motors , but i don't think it has enough power for this . I think my next plan is to remove the table & go down to the knee mechanism & clean, lube & adjust my way back up to the table .? I would be interested to see how ya / yer bud did the Stepper? & DC motor install . thanks animal On 11/2/24 11:19 PM, mike allen wrote: ??? Sorry Forgot to mention , ye it's a knee mill I was told it was purchased new in the 80's . It Came from KBC tool's . I got it from the original owner whose work was 95 % plastic , no steel & some aluminum . He made some kind of optics stuff . 
thanks ?animal On 11/2/24 10:48 PM, John Dammeyer wrote: Does your mill have a knee or does the head assembly move?? That's easier than moving the quill and leaves the quill as a manual option. ? There are all sorts of ways of doing this.? For the longest time I had a stepper motor on the knee shaft that I ran from one of my ELS units.? I could set zero where I was milling and then if I wanted to do a 0.010" cut just move the knee by that distance. ? A friend of mine with the same type of mill just added a DC motor with a variable power supply and a couple of toothed belts and uses it to avoid major tedious cranking operations. ? Or, start thinking about CNC now and start the conversion.? Just do the Z axis to start.? Whatever controller you use add a pendant with an MPG and now you are on the way with adequate control. ? -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of mike allen Sent: November 2, 2024 10:27 PM To: [email protected] Subject: [digitalhobbyist] Diy Powerfeed for mill ? ? Finally got my mill in my machine room & under power . Wondering if anyone here has come up with a DIY powerfeed that could be used on a mill . ? thanks ? animal ? ? ? ?
? ? ? ?
|
I put a stepper motor and control on a Sheldon Horizontal Mill I restored last year.? I use it on the crossfeed and can control the feed rate for milling.? If you are just wanting to raise and lower the knee so you don't have to crank then a DC motor or an AC gearhead motor would be easier.? Here is a link to the build thread I did on the Hobby Machinist forum if you are interested.??
?
?
?
?
|
I’ll take it one step further if you decide you want to look at a more complex solution. First a drawing of the existing knee acme screw which has a bevel gear at the top turned by the horizontal shaft. ? What others have done and what I plan to do is replace that with a ball screw and turn the screw directly.? Except unlike others I will not turn the screw.? I’ll turn the ball nut which pushes the screw up or down. ? This will require a new post and the motor will be mounted on the post in a vertical orientation and will require a brake when the system is powered down as then the AC servo will spin freely and be back driven by the ball screw.? There will still be a 4:1 reduction since 150 IPM is still scary fast enough. John ? ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of John Dammeyer
Sent: November 3, 2024 1:22 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] Diy Powerfeed for mill? Here’s a photo of the original parts.? Thrust bearing at the bevel gear end set the end play.? The shaft sat in the cast iron and there was dramatic end play but then it was designed to be turned slowly by hand. ? At the gear end the thrust bearings pressed against the gear and the cast iron.? I replaced the cast iron side with an bearing instead of a bushing. ? At the crank end I replaced the bushing with bearings and spacers and took out the end play to the bevel gear.? Now I can spin this to get 150 IPM on the knee which is scary fast. ? First trial was with a 650 oz-in stepper motor with 4:1 reduction.? If I was lucky I got 10 IPM before the motor locked up.? Stepper motors cannot turn fast.? Changing to a 1200 oz-in motor gave me 25 IPM and that worked until the GECKO controller developed corrosion on the terminal connector and failed. ? From there I changed out the motor to a 750W AC Servo good to 3000 RPM and now have 150 IPM. ? Eventually I’ll drive the vertical screw directly to reduce backlash but for now it’s been pretty good. John ? ? ? Hit send too fast . The knee is the one that I will probably convert first . I had my chest cracked 7 years back & thinks like raising/lowering the knee reminds me that that work\was done to me . I have one of those electric seat motors , but i don't think it has enough power for this . I think my next plan is to remove the table & go down to the knee mechanism & clean, lube & adjust my way back up to the table .? I would be interested to see how ya / yer bud did the Stepper? & DC motor install . thanks animal On 11/2/24 11:19 PM, mike allen wrote: ??? Sorry Forgot to mention , ye it's a knee mill I was told it was purchased new in the 80's . It Came from KBC tool's . I got it from the original owner whose work was 95 % plastic , no steel & some aluminum . He made some kind of optics stuff . 
thanks ?animal On 11/2/24 10:48 PM, John Dammeyer wrote: Does your mill have a knee or does the head assembly move?? That's easier than moving the quill and leaves the quill as a manual option. ? There are all sorts of ways of doing this.? For the longest time I had a stepper motor on the knee shaft that I ran from one of my ELS units.? I could set zero where I was milling and then if I wanted to do a 0.010" cut just move the knee by that distance. ? A friend of mine with the same type of mill just added a DC motor with a variable power supply and a couple of toothed belts and uses it to avoid major tedious cranking operations. ? Or, start thinking about CNC now and start the conversion.? Just do the Z axis to start.? Whatever controller you use add a pendant with an MPG and now you are on the way with adequate control. ? -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of mike allen Sent: November 2, 2024 10:27 PM To: [email protected] Subject: [digitalhobbyist] Diy Powerfeed for mill ? ? Finally got my mill in my machine room & under power . Wondering if anyone here has come up with a DIY powerfeed that could be used on a mill . ? thanks ? animal ? ? ? ?
? ? ? ?
|
Here’s a photo of the bearing holder I turned on the lathe to replace the bushing at the bevel gear end. ? And at the crank end. ? Finally I started with plastic pulleys. ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of John Dammeyer
Sent: November 3, 2024 8:22 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] Diy Powerfeed for mill? I’ll take it one step further if you decide you want to look at a more complex solution. First a drawing of the existing knee acme screw which has a bevel gear at the top turned by the horizontal shaft. ? What others have done and what I plan to do is replace that with a ball screw and turn the screw directly.? Except unlike others I will not turn the screw.? I’ll turn the ball nut which pushes the screw up or down. ? This will require a new post and the motor will be mounted on the post in a vertical orientation and will require a brake when the system is powered down as then the AC servo will spin freely and be back driven by the ball screw.? There will still be a 4:1 reduction since 150 IPM is still scary fast enough. John ? ? ? Here’s a photo of the original parts.? Thrust bearing at the bevel gear end set the end play.? The shaft sat in the cast iron and there was dramatic end play but then it was designed to be turned slowly by hand. ? At the gear end the thrust bearings pressed against the gear and the cast iron.? I replaced the cast iron side with an bearing instead of a bushing. ? At the crank end I replaced the bushing with bearings and spacers and took out the end play to the bevel gear.? Now I can spin this to get 150 IPM on the knee which is scary fast. ? First trial was with a 650 oz-in stepper motor with 4:1 reduction.? If I was lucky I got 10 IPM before the motor locked up.? Stepper motors cannot turn fast.? Changing to a 1200 oz-in motor gave me 25 IPM and that worked until the GECKO controller developed corrosion on the terminal connector and failed. ? From there I changed out the motor to a 750W AC Servo good to 3000 RPM and now have 150 IPM. ? Eventually I’ll drive the vertical screw directly to reduce backlash but for now it’s been pretty good. John ? ? ? Hit send too fast . The knee is the one that I will probably convert first . I had my chest cracked 7 years back & thinks like raising/lowering the knee reminds me that that work\was done to me . I have one of those electric seat motors , but i don't think it has enough power for this . I think my next plan is to remove the table & go down to the knee mechanism & clean, lube & adjust my way back up to the table .? I would be interested to see how ya / yer bud did the Stepper? & DC motor install . thanks animal On 11/2/24 11:19 PM, mike allen wrote: ??? Sorry Forgot to mention , ye it's a knee mill I was told it was purchased new in the 80's . It Came from KBC tool's . I got it from the original owner whose work was 95 % plastic , no steel & some aluminum . He made some kind of optics stuff . 
thanks ?animal On 11/2/24 10:48 PM, John Dammeyer wrote: Does your mill have a knee or does the head assembly move?? That's easier than moving the quill and leaves the quill as a manual option. ? There are all sorts of ways of doing this.? For the longest time I had a stepper motor on the knee shaft that I ran from one of my ELS units.? I could set zero where I was milling and then if I wanted to do a 0.010" cut just move the knee by that distance. ? A friend of mine with the same type of mill just added a DC motor with a variable power supply and a couple of toothed belts and uses it to avoid major tedious cranking operations. ? Or, start thinking about CNC now and start the conversion.? Just do the Z axis to start.? Whatever controller you use add a pendant with an MPG and now you are on the way with adequate control. ? -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of mike allen Sent: November 2, 2024 10:27 PM To: [email protected] Subject: [digitalhobbyist] Diy Powerfeed for mill ? ? Finally got my mill in my machine room & under power . Wondering if anyone here has come up with a DIY powerfeed that could be used on a mill . ? thanks ? animal ? ? ? ?
? ? ? ?
|
Here’s what a friend did. ? I made it out of a motor drive setup that I salvaged from a retired mobility cart I had on the pile. I used the analog speed controller salvaged from it as well. No computer control. ? 
? ?
|
??? When ya say servo , are ya talking like one of those Consew
sewing machine servo motors ? I had forgotten all about those
units .
??? thanks
??? animal
On 11/3/24 1:21 AM, John Dammeyer
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Here’s
a photo of the original parts.?
Thrust bearing at the bevel gear end set the end
play.? The shaft sat
in the cast iron and there was dramatic end play but then it
was designed to be turned slowly by hand.
?
At
the gear end the thrust bearings pressed against the gear
and the cast iron.? I
replaced the cast iron side with an bearing instead of a
bushing.
?
At
the crank end I replaced the bushing with bearings and
spacers and took out the end play to the bevel gear.? Now I can spin this to
get 150 IPM on the knee which is scary fast.
?
First
trial was with a 650 oz-in
stepper motor with 4:1 reduction.? If I was lucky I got 10
IPM before the motor locked up.? Stepper motors cannot
turn fast.? Changing
to a 1200 oz-in motor gave me
25 IPM and that worked until the GECKO controller developed
corrosion on the terminal connector and failed.
?
From
there I changed out the motor to a 750W AC Servo good to
3000 RPM and now have 150 IPM.
?
Eventually
I’ll drive the vertical screw directly to reduce backlash
but for now it’s been pretty good.
John
?
?
?
Hit send too fast . The knee is the one that I will probably
convert first . I had my chest cracked 7 years back &
thinks like raising/lowering the knee reminds me that that
work\was done to me . I have one of those electric seat motors
, but i don't think it has enough power for this . I think my
next plan is to remove the table & go down to the knee
mechanism & clean, lube & adjust my way back up to the
table .? I would be interested to see how ya / yer bud did the
Stepper? & DC motor install .
thanks
animal
On 11/2/24
11:19 PM, mike allen wrote:
??? Sorry Forgot to mention , ye it's a knee mill I was
told it was purchased new in the 80's . It Came from KBC
tool's . I got it from the original owner whose work was 95
% plastic , no steel & some aluminum . He made some kind
of optics stuff .
thanks
?animal
On 11/2/24
10:48 PM, John Dammeyer wrote:
Does your mill have a knee or does the head assembly move?? That's easier than moving the quill and leaves the quill as a manual option.
?
There are all sorts of ways of doing this.? For the longest time I had a stepper motor on the knee shaft that I ran from one of my ELS units.? I could set zero where I was milling and then if I wanted to do a 0.010" cut just move the knee by that distance.
?
A friend of mine with the same type of mill just added a DC motor with a variable power supply and a couple of toothed belts and uses it to avoid major tedious cranking operations.
?
Or, start thinking about CNC now and start the conversion.? Just do the Z axis to start.? Whatever controller you use add a pendant with an MPG and now you are on the way with adequate control.
?
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On
Behalf Of mike allen
Sent: November 2, 2024 10:27 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [digitalhobbyist] Diy Powerfeed for mill
?
? Finally got my mill in my machine room & under power . Wondering if
anyone here has come up with a DIY powerfeed that could be used on a mill .
?
thanks
?
animal
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
|
I’m now running Bergerda AX Servo’s on all axis with the exception of the 4th Axis Harmonic drive which has a 3 phase motor but a different Servo Driver.
? Bergerda does make a lot of motors for the sewing industry.? One time when I was having some tuning issues their engineers made a quick video using a cell phone and sent that to me to help me out.? Great support! ? John ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of mike allen
Sent: November 3, 2024 10:32 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] Diy Powerfeed for mill? ??? When ya say servo , are ya talking like one of those Consew sewing machine servo motors ? I had forgotten all about those units . ??? thanks ??? animal On 11/3/24 1:21 AM, John Dammeyer wrote: Here’s a photo of the original parts.? Thrust bearing at the bevel gear end set the end play.? The shaft sat in the cast iron and there was dramatic end play but then it was designed to be turned slowly by hand. ? At the gear end the thrust bearings pressed against the gear and the cast iron.? I replaced the cast iron side with an bearing instead of a bushing. ? At the crank end I replaced the bushing with bearings and spacers and took out the end play to the bevel gear.? Now I can spin this to get 150 IPM on the knee which is scary fast. ? First trial was with a 650 oz-in stepper motor with 4:1 reduction.? If I was lucky I got 10 IPM before the motor locked up.? Stepper motors cannot turn fast.? Changing to a 1200 oz-in motor gave me 25 IPM and that worked until the GECKO controller developed corrosion on the terminal connector and failed. ? From there I changed out the motor to a 750W AC Servo good to 3000 RPM and now have 150 IPM. ? Eventually I’ll drive the vertical screw directly to reduce backlash but for now it’s been pretty good. John ? ? ? Hit send too fast . The knee is the one that I will probably convert first . I had my chest cracked 7 years back & thinks like raising/lowering the knee reminds me that that work\was done to me . I have one of those electric seat motors , but i don't think it has enough power for this . I think my next plan is to remove the table & go down to the knee mechanism & clean, lube & adjust my way back up to the table .? I would be interested to see how ya / yer bud did the Stepper? & DC motor install . thanks animal On 11/2/24 11:19 PM, mike allen wrote: ??? Sorry Forgot to mention , ye it's a knee mill I was told it was purchased new in the 80's . It Came from KBC tool's . I got it from the original owner whose work was 95 % plastic , no steel & some aluminum . He made some kind of optics stuff . 
thanks ?animal On 11/2/24 10:48 PM, John Dammeyer wrote: Does your mill have a knee or does the head assembly move?? That's easier than moving the quill and leaves the quill as a manual option. ? There are all sorts of ways of doing this.? For the longest time I had a stepper motor on the knee shaft that I ran from one of my ELS units.? I could set zero where I was milling and then if I wanted to do a 0.010" cut just move the knee by that distance. ? A friend of mine with the same type of mill just added a DC motor with a variable power supply and a couple of toothed belts and uses it to avoid major tedious cranking operations. ? Or, start thinking about CNC now and start the conversion.? Just do the Z axis to start.? Whatever controller you use add a pendant with an MPG and now you are on the way with adequate control. ? -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of mike allen Sent: November 2, 2024 10:27 PM To: [email protected] Subject: [digitalhobbyist] Diy Powerfeed for mill ? ? Finally got my mill in my machine room & under power . Wondering if anyone here has come up with a DIY powerfeed that could be used on a mill . ? thanks ? animal ? ? ? ?
? ? ? ?
|
??? I need to find pricing for these Bergereda motors .? John I
think we may have the same mills ?? I noticed that the lower
spindle Collar? on my spindle was loose letting the spindle move
up & down in my spindle quill . Have ya ever had this issue
with yours ? If so should I just tighten it as much as I can &
reinstall or did ya find there was a sequence to do that . SO far
I haven't found much on this machine & the manual looks like
it was made by a drunk 4 year old with a Etch-A-Sketch .
Thanks
animal
On 11/3/24 11:49 PM, John Dammeyer
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I’m
now running Bergerda AX Servo’s
on all axis with the exception of the 4th Axis
Harmonic drive which has a 3 phase motor but a different
Servo Driver.
?
Bergerda
does make a lot of motors for the sewing industry.? One time when I was
having some tuning issues their engineers made a quick video
using a cell phone and sent that to me to help me out.? Great support!
?
John
?
?
??? When ya say servo , are ya talking like one of those
Consew sewing machine servo motors ? I had forgotten all about
those units .
??? thanks
??? animal
On 11/3/24
1:21 AM, John Dammeyer wrote:
Here’s
a photo of the original parts.? Thrust bearing at the
bevel gear end set the end play.? The shaft sat in the
cast iron and there was dramatic end play but then it was
designed to be turned slowly by hand.
?
At
the gear end the thrust bearings pressed against the gear
and the cast iron.? I
replaced the cast iron side with an bearing instead of a
bushing.
?
At
the crank end I replaced the bushing with bearings and
spacers and took out the end play to the bevel gear.? Now I can spin this
to get 150 IPM on the knee which is scary fast.
?
First
trial was with a 650 oz-in stepper motor with 4:1
reduction.? If I
was lucky I got 10 IPM before the motor locked up.? Stepper motors cannot
turn fast.? Changing
to a 1200 oz-in motor gave me 25 IPM and that worked until
the GECKO controller developed corrosion on the terminal
connector and failed.
?
From
there I changed out the motor to a 750W AC Servo good to
3000 RPM and now have 150 IPM.
?
Eventually
I’ll drive the vertical screw directly to reduce backlash
but for now it’s been pretty good.
John
?
?
?
Hit send too fast . The knee is the one that I will
probably convert first . I had my chest cracked 7 years back
& thinks like raising/lowering the knee reminds me that
that work\was done to me . I have one of those electric seat
motors , but i don't think it has enough power for this . I
think my next plan is to remove the table & go down to
the knee mechanism & clean, lube & adjust my way
back up to the table .? I would be interested to see how ya
/ yer bud did the Stepper? & DC motor install .
thanks
animal
On 11/2/24
11:19 PM, mike allen wrote:
??? Sorry Forgot to mention , ye it's a knee mill I was
told it was purchased new in the 80's . It Came from KBC
tool's . I got it from the original owner whose work was
95 % plastic , no steel & some aluminum . He made some
kind of optics stuff .
thanks
?animal
On 11/2/24
10:48 PM, John Dammeyer wrote:
Does your mill have a knee or does the head assembly move?? That's easier than moving the quill and leaves the quill as a manual option.
?
There are all sorts of ways of doing this.? For the longest time I had a stepper motor on the knee shaft that I ran from one of my ELS units.? I could set zero where I was milling and then if I wanted to do a 0.010" cut just move the knee by that distance.
?
A friend of mine with the same type of mill just added a DC motor with a variable power supply and a couple of toothed belts and uses it to avoid major tedious cranking operations.
?
Or, start thinking about CNC now and start the conversion.? Just do the Z axis to start.? Whatever controller you use add a pendant with an MPG and now you are on the way with adequate control.
?
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On
Behalf Of mike allen
Sent: November 2, 2024 10:27 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [digitalhobbyist] Diy Powerfeed for mill
?
? Finally got my mill in my machine room & under power . Wondering if
anyone here has come up with a DIY powerfeed that could be used on a mill .
?
thanks
?
animal
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
|
I bought mine from House of Tools here in Victoria before they vanished.? It’s equivalent to the Grizzly G3616 which has the smaller table? etc. compared to the G3617 which also has the horizontal spindle. ? Grizzly tools has discontinued even referencing this mill.? Used to be able to enter in that number and it would come up with the info about it but state it was discontinued. Here’s the spec sheet.
? But there is a way to it
? Under Product Linksyou can get the parts list and manual.? Way better than the one from House of Tools. ? On the Bergerda site ?if you ?ask your question in this little box odds are it will be Donald Chen who responds.? I’ve found him to be very helpful. ? 
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of mike allen
Sent: November 4, 2024 5:45 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] Diy Powerfeed for mill? ??? I need to find pricing for these Bergereda motors .? John I think we may have the same mills ?? I noticed that the lower spindle Collar? on my spindle was loose letting the spindle move up & down in my spindle quill . Have ya ever had this issue with yours ? If so should I just tighten it as much as I can & reinstall or did ya find there was a sequence to do that . SO far I haven't found much on this machine & the manual looks like it was made by a drunk 4 year old with a Etch-A-Sketch . Thanks animal 
On 11/3/24 11:49 PM, John Dammeyer wrot I’m now running Bergerda AX Servo’s on all axis with the exception of the 4th Axis Harmonic drive which has a 3 phase motor but a different Servo Driver.
? Bergerda does make a lot of motors for the sewing industry.? One time when I was having some tuning issues their engineers made a quick video using a cell phone and sent that to me to help me out.? Great support! ? John ? ? ??? When ya say servo , are ya talking like one of those Consew sewing machine servo motors ? I had forgotten all about those units . ??? thanks ??? animal On 11/3/24 1:21 AM, John Dammeyer wrote: Here’s a photo of the original parts.? Thrust bearing at the bevel gear end set the end play.? The shaft sat in the cast iron and there was dramatic end play but then it was designed to be turned slowly by hand. ? At the gear end the thrust bearings pressed against the gear and the cast iron.? I replaced the cast iron side with an bearing instead of a bushing. ? At the crank end I replaced the bushing with bearings and spacers and took out the end play to the bevel gear.? Now I can spin this to get 150 IPM on the knee which is scary fast. ? First trial was with a 650 oz-in stepper motor with 4:1 reduction.? If I was lucky I got 10 IPM before the motor locked up.? Stepper motors cannot turn fast.? Changing to a 1200 oz-in motor gave me 25 IPM and that worked until the GECKO controller developed corrosion on the terminal connector and failed. ? From there I changed out the motor to a 750W AC Servo good to 3000 RPM and now have 150 IPM. ? Eventually I’ll drive the vertical screw directly to reduce backlash but for now it’s been pretty good. John ? ? ? Hit send too fast . The knee is the one that I will probably convert first . I had my chest cracked 7 years back & thinks like raising/lowering the knee reminds me that that work\was done to me . I have one of those electric seat motors , but i don't think it has enough power for this . I think my next plan is to remove the table & go down to the knee mechanism & clean, lube & adjust my way back up to the table .? I would be interested to see how ya / yer bud did the Stepper? & DC motor install . thanks animal On 11/2/24 11:19 PM, mike allen wrote: ??? Sorry Forgot to mention , ye it's a knee mill I was told it was purchased new in the 80's . It Came from KBC tool's . I got it from the original owner whose work was 95 % plastic , no steel & some aluminum . He made some kind of optics stuff .
thanks ?animal On 11/2/24 10:48 PM, John Dammeyer wrote: Does your mill have a knee or does the head assembly move?? That's easier than moving the quill and leaves the quill as a manual option. ? There are all sorts of ways of doing this.? For the longest time I had a stepper motor on the knee shaft that I ran from one of my ELS units.? I could set zero where I was milling and then if I wanted to do a 0.010" cut just move the knee by that distance. ? A friend of mine with the same type of mill just added a DC motor with a variable power supply and a couple of toothed belts and uses it to avoid major tedious cranking operations. ? Or, start thinking about CNC now and start the conversion.? Just do the Z axis to start.? Whatever controller you use add a pendant with an MPG and now you are on the way with adequate control. ? -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of mike allen Sent: November 2, 2024 10:27 PM To: [email protected] Subject: [digitalhobbyist] Diy Powerfeed for mill ? ? Finally got my mill in my machine room & under power . Wondering if anyone here has come up with a DIY powerfeed that could be used on a mill . ? thanks ? animal ? ? ? ?
? ? ? ?
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I’ve passed on your email to Donald at Bergerda so he’ll know that you were recommended by me. John ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of mike allen
Sent: November 4, 2024 5:45 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] Diy Powerfeed for mill? ??? I need to find pricing for these Bergereda motors .? John I think we may have the same mills ?? I noticed that the lower spindle Collar? on my spindle was loose letting the spindle move up & down in my spindle quill . Have ya ever had this issue with yours ? If so should I just tighten it as much as I can & reinstall or did ya find there was a sequence to do that . SO far I haven't found much on this machine & the manual looks like it was made by a drunk 4 year old with a Etch-A-Sketch . Thanks animal 
On 11/3/24 11:49 PM, John Dammeyer wrote: I’m now running Bergerda AX Servo’s on all axis with the exception of the 4th Axis Harmonic drive which has a 3 phase motor but a different Servo Driver.
? Bergerda does make a lot of motors for the sewing industry.? One time when I was having some tuning issues their engineers made a quick video using a cell phone and sent that to me to help me out.? Great support! ? John ? ? ??? When ya say servo , are ya talking like one of those Consew sewing machine servo motors ? I had forgotten all about those units . ??? thanks ??? animal On 11/3/24 1:21 AM, John Dammeyer wrote: Here’s a photo of the original parts.? Thrust bearing at the bevel gear end set the end play.? The shaft sat in the cast iron and there was dramatic end play but then it was designed to be turned slowly by hand. ? At the gear end the thrust bearings pressed against the gear and the cast iron.? I replaced the cast iron side with an bearing instead of a bushing. ? At the crank end I replaced the bushing with bearings and spacers and took out the end play to the bevel gear.? Now I can spin this to get 150 IPM on the knee which is scary fast. ? First trial was with a 650 oz-in stepper motor with 4:1 reduction.? If I was lucky I got 10 IPM before the motor locked up.? Stepper motors cannot turn fast.? Changing to a 1200 oz-in motor gave me 25 IPM and that worked until the GECKO controller developed corrosion on the terminal connector and failed. ? From there I changed out the motor to a 750W AC Servo good to 3000 RPM and now have 150 IPM. ? Eventually I’ll drive the vertical screw directly to reduce backlash but for now it’s been pretty good. John ? ? ? Hit send too fast . The knee is the one that I will probably convert first . I had my chest cracked 7 years back & thinks like raising/lowering the knee reminds me that that work\was done to me . I have one of those electric seat motors , but i don't think it has enough power for this . I think my next plan is to remove the table & go down to the knee mechanism & clean, lube & adjust my way back up to the table .? I would be interested to see how ya / yer bud did the Stepper? & DC motor install . thanks animal On 11/2/24 11:19 PM, mike allen wrote: ??? Sorry Forgot to mention , ye it's a knee mill I was told it was purchased new in the 80's . It Came from KBC tool's . I got it from the original owner whose work was 95 % plastic , no steel & some aluminum . He made some kind of optics stuff .
thanks ?animal On 11/2/24 10:48 PM, John Dammeyer wrote: Does your mill have a knee or does the head assembly move?? That's easier than moving the quill and leaves the quill as a manual option. ? There are all sorts of ways of doing this.? For the longest time I had a stepper motor on the knee shaft that I ran from one of my ELS units.? I could set zero where I was milling and then if I wanted to do a 0.010" cut just move the knee by that distance. ? A friend of mine with the same type of mill just added a DC motor with a variable power supply and a couple of toothed belts and uses it to avoid major tedious cranking operations. ? Or, start thinking about CNC now and start the conversion.? Just do the Z axis to start.? Whatever controller you use add a pendant with an MPG and now you are on the way with adequate control. ? -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of mike allen Sent: November 2, 2024 10:27 PM To: [email protected] Subject: [digitalhobbyist] Diy Powerfeed for mill ? ? Finally got my mill in my machine room & under power . Wondering if anyone here has come up with a DIY powerfeed that could be used on a mill . ? thanks ? animal ? ? ? ?
? ? ? ?
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??? thanks John .
??? animal
On 11/5/24 12:23 AM, John Dammeyer
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I’ve
passed on your email to Donald at Bergerda
so he’ll know that you were recommended by me.
John
?
?
??? I need to find pricing for these Bergereda motors .? John
I think we may have the same mills ?? I noticed that the lower
spindle Collar? on my spindle was loose letting the spindle
move up & down in my spindle quill . Have ya ever had this
issue with yours ? If so should I just tighten it as much as I
can & reinstall or did ya find there was a sequence to do
that . SO far I haven't found much on this machine & the
manual looks like it was made by a drunk 4 year old with a
Etch-A-Sketch .
Thanks
animal
On 11/3/24
11:49 PM, John Dammeyer wrote:
I’m
now running Bergerda AX Servo’s on all axis with the
exception of the 4th Axis Harmonic drive which
has a 3 phase motor but a different Servo Driver.
?
Bergerda
does make a lot of motors for the sewing industry.? One time when I was
having some tuning issues their engineers made a quick
video using a cell phone and sent that to me to help me
out.? Great
support!
?
John
?
?
??? When ya say servo , are ya talking like one of those
Consew sewing machine servo motors ? I had forgotten all
about those units .
??? thanks
??? animal
On 11/3/24
1:21 AM, John Dammeyer wrote:
Here’s
a photo of the original parts.? Thrust bearing at
the bevel gear end set the end play.? The shaft sat in
the cast iron and there was dramatic end play but then
it was designed to be turned slowly by hand.
?
At
the gear end the thrust bearings pressed against the
gear and the cast iron.?
I replaced the cast iron side with an bearing
instead of a bushing.
?
At
the crank end I replaced the bushing with bearings and
spacers and took out the end play to the bevel gear.? Now I can spin this
to get 150 IPM on the knee which is scary fast.
?
First
trial was with a 650 oz-in stepper motor with 4:1
reduction.? If I
was lucky I got 10 IPM before the motor locked up.? Stepper motors
cannot turn fast.? Changing
to a 1200 oz-in motor gave me 25 IPM and that worked
until the GECKO controller developed corrosion on the
terminal connector and failed.
?
From
there I changed out the motor to a 750W AC Servo good to
3000 RPM and now have 150 IPM.
?
Eventually
I’ll drive the vertical screw directly to reduce
backlash but for now it’s been pretty good.
John
?
?
?
Hit send too fast . The knee is the one that I will
probably convert first . I had my chest cracked 7 years
back & thinks like raising/lowering the knee reminds
me that that work\was done to me . I have one of those
electric seat motors , but i don't think it has enough
power for this . I think my next plan is to remove the
table & go down to the knee mechanism & clean,
lube & adjust my way back up to the table .? I would
be interested to see how ya / yer bud did the Stepper?
& DC motor install .
thanks
animal
On 11/2/24
11:19 PM, mike allen wrote:
??? Sorry Forgot to mention , ye it's a knee mill I was
told it was purchased new in the 80's . It Came from KBC
tool's . I got it from the original owner whose work was
95 % plastic , no steel & some aluminum . He made
some kind of optics stuff .
thanks
?animal
On 11/2/24
10:48 PM, John Dammeyer wrote:
Does your mill have a knee or does the head assembly move?? That's easier than moving the quill and leaves the quill as a manual option.
?
There are all sorts of ways of doing this.? For the longest time I had a stepper motor on the knee shaft that I ran from one of my ELS units.? I could set zero where I was milling and then if I wanted to do a 0.010" cut just move the knee by that distance.
?
A friend of mine with the same type of mill just added a DC motor with a variable power supply and a couple of toothed belts and uses it to avoid major tedious cranking operations.
?
Or, start thinking about CNC now and start the conversion.? Just do the Z axis to start.? Whatever controller you use add a pendant with an MPG and now you are on the way with adequate control.
?
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On
Behalf Of mike allen
Sent: November 2, 2024 10:27 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [digitalhobbyist] Diy Powerfeed for mill
?
? Finally got my mill in my machine room & under power . Wondering if
anyone here has come up with a DIY powerfeed that could be used on a mill .
?
thanks
?
animal
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
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