¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

ctrl + shift + ? for shortcuts
© 2025 Groups.io
  1. Willystech
  2. Messages
Expanded Topics Messages Polls
Date
Re: [WT] L head starter

Delbert Clear
 

KEITH

I have a complete set-up of this starter--switch that goes on the
starter, and the rod/linkage that fastens to the floorboard, plus a
starter that would probably be good for parts only--I know that it
doesn't work, but I don't have a clue why. Maybesomething as simple
as brushes, or as heavy duty as windings or commutator. Bearings seem OK, tho.

You can have the whole thing for 15 bucks plus shipping, which would
be about 15, I'd think, If it's more, then we should think of having
me strip the mechanics off and keeping the rest. I'll never use it,
and it surely needs a good home. And you are correct--it IS sorta
kool, and was made for only a year or two.

del clearAt 11:33 AM 9/20/2007, you wrote:

The 3a setup is the only bellhousing/starter I have. I was able to
find out by cruising around on the web that it was a open starter/
124 tooth flywheel. I wouldn't even mind keeping the mechanical
setup if I had the linkage and foot pedal, it would be kind of kool.
Thanks again David.
Keith
P.S. Thanks for the link!
----- Original Message -----
From: David Hoelzeman
To: <mailto:WillysTech%40yahoogroups.com>WillysTech@...
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2007 9:11 AM
Subject: Re: [WT] L head starter

So you have the bellhousing from the 3A as part of the transmission
setup? Do you have a 2A starter? If someone can verify that the
flywheel ring gear tooth count for a 2A matches that for the 3A
(124-teeth) then the only thing that I think might cause problems is
the "nose" of the starter. The "nose" for the 3A starter is actually
part of the bellhousing - it supports the end of the armature. If that
setup is the same for the 2A starter and the tooth count is the same
you should be able to use a 2A starter. Only other concern about the
bellhousing is whether or not the clutch linkage is the same between
the 2A and 3A. You might browse around the cj2a page and see if
there's any information on there that helps
(<>). Best I
can do for ya - I'm a bit out of
my league on the CJs unfortunately.

David
'50 4WD Pickup

is On Thu, 20 Sep 2007 01:18:50 -0700, Keith Haw wrote:

Thanks for the info David.
I guess I was a little misleading. I only have the trans setup that came
with the 3a motor. I do have a M38 motor but it doesn't have a bellhousing
or starter. My 2a doesn't have a drivetrain at all right not. That
is what I
got the 3a setup for. My 2a has the foot starter "switch" for later model
starters with a solenoid but doesn't have the manual foot starter linkage.
Keith
Re: [WT] L head starter

 

If you try to use the mechanical setup these pictures might help:





That's in my truck but should be the same starter linkage setup the 3A
used - both the 3A and trucks used the MZ4137 starter (which is what is
in the picture.)

David
'50 4WD Pickup

On Thu, 20 Sep 2007 09:33:55 -0700, Keith Haw wrote:

The 3a setup is the only bellhousing/starter I have. I was able to find out by cruising around on the web that it was a open starter/ 124 tooth flywheel. I wouldn't even mind keeping the mechanical setup if I had the linkage and foot pedal, it would be kind of kool.
Thanks again David.
Keith
P.S. Thanks for the link!
Re: [WT] L head starter

Keith Haw
 

The 3a setup is the only bellhousing/starter I have. I was able to find out by cruising around on the web that it was a open starter/ 124 tooth flywheel. I wouldn't even mind keeping the mechanical setup if I had the linkage and foot pedal, it would be kind of kool.
Thanks again David.
Keith
P.S. Thanks for the link!

----- Original Message -----
From: David Hoelzeman
To: WillysTech@...
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2007 9:11 AM
Subject: Re: [WT] L head starter


So you have the bellhousing from the 3A as part of the transmission
setup? Do you have a 2A starter? If someone can verify that the
flywheel ring gear tooth count for a 2A matches that for the 3A
(124-teeth) then the only thing that I think might cause problems is
the "nose" of the starter. The "nose" for the 3A starter is actually
part of the bellhousing - it supports the end of the armature. If that
setup is the same for the 2A starter and the tooth count is the same
you should be able to use a 2A starter. Only other concern about the
bellhousing is whether or not the clutch linkage is the same between
the 2A and 3A. You might browse around the cj2a page and see if
there's any information on there that helps
(). Best I can do for ya - I'm a bit out of
my league on the CJs unfortunately.

David
'50 4WD Pickup

is On Thu, 20 Sep 2007 01:18:50 -0700, Keith Haw wrote:

>Thanks for the info David.
> I guess I was a little misleading. I only have the trans setup that came
>with the 3a motor. I do have a M38 motor but it doesn't have a bellhousing
>or starter. My 2a doesn't have a drivetrain at all right not. That is what I
>got the 3a setup for. My 2a has the foot starter "switch" for later model
>starters with a solenoid but doesn't have the manual foot starter linkage.
>Keith
Re: [WT] L head starter

 

So you have the bellhousing from the 3A as part of the transmission
setup? Do you have a 2A starter? If someone can verify that the
flywheel ring gear tooth count for a 2A matches that for the 3A
(124-teeth) then the only thing that I think might cause problems is
the "nose" of the starter. The "nose" for the 3A starter is actually
part of the bellhousing - it supports the end of the armature. If that
setup is the same for the 2A starter and the tooth count is the same
you should be able to use a 2A starter. Only other concern about the
bellhousing is whether or not the clutch linkage is the same between
the 2A and 3A. You might browse around the cj2a page and see if
there's any information on there that helps
(). Best I can do for ya - I'm a bit out of
my league on the CJs unfortunately.

David
'50 4WD Pickup

is On Thu, 20 Sep 2007 01:18:50 -0700, Keith Haw wrote:

Thanks for the info David.
I guess I was a little misleading. I only have the trans setup that came
with the 3a motor. I do have a M38 motor but it doesn't have a bellhousing
or starter. My 2a doesn't have a drivetrain at all right not. That is what I
got the 3a setup for. My 2a has the foot starter "switch" for later model
starters with a solenoid but doesn't have the manual foot starter linkage.
Keith
Re: [WT] Re: Almost (now SUCCESS!)

Chris Lange
 

Congrats!!

You are almost there! Keep going, don't give up now!

Chris
Cortland, NY

----- Original Message -----
From: John Francis
To: WillysTech@...
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 10:22 PM
Subject: [WT] Re: Almost (now SUCCESS!)



I had my son put his finger over the hole while I laid on the floor
with a big wrench and turned the engine. He wasn't sure what I was
asking him to do but I heard a loud squeak when #1 hit tdc and knew I
was there. I then placed the wires in their proper spots.

After a few minutes of cranking on and off I decided to shoot a
little starting fluid in the carb. The beast sputtered then came to
life! Oil pressure came up and after 10 seconds I shut it off. I
went to inspect the engine and found oil running down the inside of
the left fender. Further inspection showed that I didn't get the oil
filter top on perfectly. I cleaned up what I could and gave up for
the night.

It was a good day.

Thanks to all for the help.

John

--- In WillysTech@..., "Mighty Mo" <cj2a@...> wrote:
>
> <snip>
>
> You can get very close by sticking your finger in the #1 spark plug
hole
> (not to far).
>
> <snip>
>
> Make that your THUMB and just press it against the spark plug hole
to create
> an tight seal.
>
>
>
> Ric -.
> Toledo, Ohio
> Home of the World Famous JeepR
>
>
>
>
> 1948 - CJ2A L134 - #149488 - Mighty Mo
> 1948 - CJ2A L134 - #156174 - Ole Blue
> 1948 - CJ2A 225 V6 - #184134 - Willy
> 1950 - T3-C - #16517 Bantam Trailer.
> 1953 - CJ3A L134 453-GB1-18612
> 1963-5? - Wagoneer
> 1982 - M416 - Still 24 Volt
> 1989 - XJ - Cherokee Laredo -4.0L
> 2004 - Dodge Durango 4x4 w/car trailer - WRV(tm) - Willys Recovery
Vehicle
>
>
>
> Never Forget September 11, 2001
> Freedom isn't free
>
> <>
>
> **
> ** Constants Aren't ****
> ** Variables Won't ****
> **
>
> _____
>
> From: WillysTech@...
[mailto:WillysTech@...] On
> Behalf Of T ROBERTS
> Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 9:00 PM
> To: WillysTech@...
> Subject: Re: [WT] Re: Almost
>
>
>
> You can get very close by sticking your finger in the #1 spark plug
hole
> (not to far). Make an air tight seal but not a lot of pressure.
>
> Then rotate the engine slowly in the direction it would normally
run via
> large socket wrench slowly. Easier if you have a friend.
>
> When the pressure makes your finger pop out you are close enough to
get
> started with the process mentioned before.
>
> Tom Roberts
>
> Registered Nurse and Realtor
>
> 2000 XJ
> 53 Willys Pickup
> Valleywide Premier Properties
> TRobertsRN@msn. <mailto:TRobertsRN%40msn.com>
com<mailto:TRobertsRN@msn.
> <mailto:TRobertsRN%40msn.com> com>
> 602-616-2712
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: John Francis<mailto:mrkringles@msn. <mailto:mrkringles%
40msn.com> com>
>
> To: WillysTech@yahoogro <mailto:WillysTech%40yahoogroups.com>
> ups.com<mailto:WillysTech@yahoogro <mailto:WillysTech%
40yahoogroups.com>
> ups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 5:44 PM
> Subject: [WT] Re: Almost
>
> Okay, now how do I place the number one cylinder at TDC. Just look
in
> through the spark plug hole?
>
> John
>
> --- In WillysTech@yahoogro <mailto:WillysTech%40yahoogroups.com>
> ups.com<mailto:WillysTech@yahoogro <mailto:WillysTech%
40yahoogroups.com>
> ups.com>, "DJ" <DJURSS@> wrote:
> >
> > John
> >
> > You need to set #1 piston at TDC, then place the #1 plug wire in
the
> tower that the rotor is pointing at. Then go COUNTER clockwise with
> the other plug wires in the proper order.
> >
> > You may need to adjust the dist housing so that the #1 tower is
> aligned with the rotor in such a fashion that the point are JUST
> opening. THis should get the engine to at least fire off, if not
run
> enough to fine tune the distro.
> >
> > DJ
> > FL
> >
> >
.
Re: [WT] Re: Well, they are inspected!

Chris Lange
 

Yeah!! Very cool!! Now get out there and drive it a little before the snow falls!!! And heck, maybe a little after too!!! (-:

Very cool!!!!


Chris
Cortland, NY

----- Original Message -----
From: autoid_lurker
To: WillysTech@...
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 9:34 PM
Subject: [WT] Re: Well, they are inspected!


I finally got my '51 M38 to pass NYS inspection today. HURRAY. It's
been 26 years since I had it "legal".

First time around, they peeled back the wheel cylinder boots and
found a little oil on three of the 4 brake wheel cylinders. I ended
up sending walacks some willys bucks to buy 4 new ones (by the way,
anyone ever buy the less expensive foreign made cylinders? Like 'um?
I got the US made). They also didnt like the sound of the front
wheel bearings. Timkin 18590 BTW. Replaced 'em. Didnt like the
ebrake, but let me squeek by, it does work if you pull hard enough.
I DO have a better condition vehicle now however.

Now I'm on to see why the RR hub is chucking when I change
direction.......Drove it to work and back today!

--- In WillysTech@..., "Chris Lange" <bullseye@...> wrote:
>
> I know exactly how you feel. As for the emergency brake, you'll
get it, just don't give up. If you can get it to hold the jeep, and
make sure everything else is working good, you should be able to pass
it. On my 55 M38A1 the emergency brake shoes are just about worn
out, but with a little adjustment, cleaning the hub with brake
cleaner to remove any grease and grime, and maybe a prayer or two,
the inspecter passed it. It will hold the jeep on a hill, but if I
rev the engine, it will not hold the jeep in place.
> Just keep tinkering with it, and you will get it right.
>
> Try and find a inspector that deals with older cars though, as I
took my 55 M38A1 to a Dodge dealer and a guy half my age jumped into
her and flipped every switch he could find in trying to start her
up. When he couldn't get it, and had to have me start it for him, he
got quite snippy and really made life hard for me for about an hour.
Someone who will just jump into your pride and joy, a jeep you spend
huge amounts of time and effort on, and just start pushing and
pulling every knob they can find, is NOT someone you want. Turst me
on this...
>
> Anyway, good luck, keep trying, you will get it, heck if I can
anyone can....
>
> :)
>
> Chris
> Cortland, NY
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: autoid_lurker
> To: WillysTech@...
> Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2007 10:54 PM
> Subject: [WT] Re: Well, they are inspected!
>
>
> Chris,
>
> Congratulations! It is nerve wracking, even on my and my wife's
> daily driver.
>
> I've not had my 1951 M38 NYS inspected since the early 80's. And,
> based on my other post about the ebrake, it may be another year!
> I've very nervous.
>
> --- In WillysTech@..., "Chris Lange" <bullseye@>
wrote:
> >
> > Good evening all,
> >
> > Well, I've got my two jeeps NYS inspected for another year.
(sigh
> of relief). ;)
> > It should get easier each year, as I put more and more work
into
> these jeeps, but every year, I still worry. My best running, and
> looking jeep (55 M38A1)took the longest to inspect. The guy went
top
> to bottom on the poor thing, almost looking for something to fail
> it. After an hour, he finally put a sticker on it, and out I went.
> > The Cj3A on the other hand passed with little fanfare,
allthough it
> only had 198 miles on it since last years inspection. :)
> > Its body is in pretty rough shape, dents and dings mostly, but
an
> engine of gold.
> >
> > Anyway, I'm done with New York bureaucracy for yet another
year.
> Thank the Willys Gods. Now I can get down to maybe painting the
CJ3A
> a little prettier color. :)
> >
> >
> > Chris
> > Cortland, NY
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Re: [WT] Replacement Tubs

Chris Lange
 

Hi John,
I haven't had any experience with that particular site, but I did buy a MB tub from Willysacres.com, and found the tub to be very good quality, and the price was much cheaper that the competition. Can't hurt to take a look. I did quite a bit of shopping before I bought my tub, and these guys had the best price. It does take a little while to ship, as they are in Canada, but not too bad.
Take a good look around before you buy, do a couple google searches, and get the best price. Most of this stuff comes from the Phillipines, so usually its the same basic product. There are always exceptions, but I've found this to be true for most of the time.
Someone told me that the reason WillysAcres can charge so cheap is that he gets the "seconds", or slightly defected tubs, and sells them cheaper...My tub was in very good shape so I can not back that up.
Anyway, after all this rambling, my point is, if I have one, is that it pays to shop around. ;)


Good luck!

Chris
Cortland, NY

----- Original Message -----
From: John Francis
To: WillysTech@...
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 8:36 PM
Subject: [WT] Replacement Tubs


As I near completion of my 53 Pickup I can hear my 54 m38a1
crying "it's my turn" from the corner of my barn. I do know that I
need to start tearing it apart before the snow blows and tucked away in
the dark recesses before the girls start taking over my barn for the
Christmas holidays. We use this same space for our Christmas shop with
our u-cut Christmas tree farm.

I removed the tub and inspected it and found it to need a lot of work.
It had been sand blasted and painted and some poor patch work done by
the previous owner who found it beyond his skills. AFter going through
a lot of expensive body work (and putty) with my truck I am considering
a replacement tub. I found this website today
and wanted to hear your comments
if you had experience with these.

Thanks,
John
Re: [WT] L head starter

Keith Haw
 

Thanks for the info David.
I guess I was a little misleading. I only have the trans setup that came with the 3a motor. I do have a M38 motor but it doesn't have a bellhousing or starter. My 2a doesn't have a drivetrain at all right not. That is what I got the 3a setup for. My 2a has the foot starter "switch" for later model starters with a solenoid but doesn't have the manual foot starter linkage.
Keith

----- Original Message -----
From: "David Hoelzeman" <mathman@...>
To: <WillysTech@...>
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2007 12:43 AM
Subject: Re: [WT] L head starter


That would be the correct starter for the 49 CJ3A. Also the same setup
was used in the pickups/wagons/jeepsters for that year. What you referred
to as a solenoid on that starter isn't, it's just a switch. For the 3A
setup the flywheel ring gear should have 124-teeth. If the 2A flywheel
has a different tooth count then it won't be as easy as just moving the
starter. Take a close look at the bell housings between the two setups -
not sure if there were differences between the 2A and 3A. What can
definitely work, although it will require work, would be to take the
transmission off of both engine assemblies, swap the flywheels and rear
engine plates, and then put the 2A transmission assembly on the 3A
engine. Of if you want to use the 3A transmission swap the bellhousings
as well.

But if the flywheel ring gear on both the 2A and 3A have the same number
of teeth and the diameter of the ring gear is the same there's a decent
chance all you'll need to do is swap in the 2A starter on the 3A engine
setup, or at the the worst swap bellhousings to allow the use of the 2A
starter.

David
'50 4WD Pickup

On Thu, 20 Sep 2007 01:27:26 -0500, Keith Haw <khaw85222@...>
wrote:

I should have known to give the numbers. It is an Auto-Lite
MZ 4137 5G.
It came out of a 49 CJ3, or so I was told. I want to put it in my 48
CJ2a.
That is about all I know about it.
Keith


Support WillysTech -- Check out the WT Bookstore


_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ WillysTech _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/
WillysTech Parts Board - Sell/Buy Vehicles and Parts

WillysTech Registry - Add your vehicle

WillysTech KnowledgeBase - Search the Archives

_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/
Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [WT] L head starter

 

That would be the correct starter for the 49 CJ3A. Also the same setup was used in the pickups/wagons/jeepsters for that year. What you referred to as a solenoid on that starter isn't, it's just a switch. For the 3A setup the flywheel ring gear should have 124-teeth. If the 2A flywheel has a different tooth count then it won't be as easy as just moving the starter. Take a close look at the bell housings between the two setups - not sure if there were differences between the 2A and 3A. What can definitely work, although it will require work, would be to take the transmission off of both engine assemblies, swap the flywheels and rear engine plates, and then put the 2A transmission assembly on the 3A engine. Of if you want to use the 3A transmission swap the bellhousings as well.

But if the flywheel ring gear on both the 2A and 3A have the same number of teeth and the diameter of the ring gear is the same there's a decent chance all you'll need to do is swap in the 2A starter on the 3A engine setup, or at the the worst swap bellhousings to allow the use of the 2A starter.

David
'50 4WD Pickup

On Thu, 20 Sep 2007 01:27:26 -0500, Keith Haw <khaw85222@...> wrote:

I should have known to give the numbers. It is an Auto-Lite
MZ 4137 5G.
It came out of a 49 CJ3, or so I was told. I want to put it in my 48 CJ2a.
That is about all I know about it.
Keith
Re: [WT] L head starter

Keith Haw
 

I should have known to give the numbers. It is an Auto-Lite
MZ 4137 5G.
It came out of a 49 CJ3, or so I was told. I want to put it in my 48 CJ2a. That is about all I know about it.
Keith

----- Original Message -----
From: "David Hoelzeman" <mathman@...>
To: <WillysTech@...>
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 10:08 PM
Subject: Re: [WT] L head starter


Depends on the flywheel, ring gear, bellhousing, and rear engine plate.
The manual linkage starters don't have solenoids on them. Without more
information it'll be difficult to give you an answer. What did the
engine/transmission unit come out of? What's the number on the starter
(if it still has its tag)? What are you putting it in?

David
'50 $WD Pickup

On Wed, 19 Sep 2007 23:37:11 -0500, Keith Haw <khaw85222@...>
wrote:

Hey everyone. The flathead I just got has the starter with the "push to
start" solenoid mounted on it. Is there another starter that I can use
that uses a standard solenoid and switch? Or can this one be modified to
work like that? My cj2 has a floor foot electrical switch but doesn't
have the manual linkage for this type starter.
Keith


Support WillysTech -- Check out the WT Bookstore


_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ WillysTech _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/
WillysTech Parts Board - Sell/Buy Vehicles and Parts

WillysTech Registry - Add your vehicle

WillysTech KnowledgeBase - Search the Archives

_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/
Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [WT] L head starter

 

Depends on the flywheel, ring gear, bellhousing, and rear engine plate. The manual linkage starters don't have solenoids on them. Without more information it'll be difficult to give you an answer. What did the engine/transmission unit come out of? What's the number on the starter (if it still has its tag)? What are you putting it in?

David
'50 $WD Pickup

On Wed, 19 Sep 2007 23:37:11 -0500, Keith Haw <khaw85222@...> wrote:

Hey everyone. The flathead I just got has the starter with the "push to start" solenoid mounted on it. Is there another starter that I can use that uses a standard solenoid and switch? Or can this one be modified to work like that? My cj2 has a floor foot electrical switch but doesn't have the manual linkage for this type starter.
Keith
L head starter

Keith Haw
 

Hey everyone. The flathead I just got has the starter with the "push to start" solenoid mounted on it. Is there another starter that I can use that uses a standard solenoid and switch? Or can this one be modified to work like that? My cj2 has a floor foot electrical switch but doesn't have the manual linkage for this type starter.
Keith
Re: [WT] Re: Almost

T ROBERTS
 

Agreed, thumb over hole a better safer choice.

Depending on size of finger sticking one in the hole could be trouble.


Tom Roberts

Registered Nurse and Realtor

2000 XJ
53 Willys Pickup
Valleywide Premier Properties
TRobertsRN@...<mailto:TRobertsRN@...>
602-616-2712

----- Original Message -----
From: Mighty Mo<mailto:cj2a@...>
To: WillysTech@...<mailto:WillysTech@...>
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 6:14 PM
Subject: RE: [WT] Re: Almost


<snip>

You can get very close by sticking your finger in the #1 spark plug hole
(not to far).

<snip>

Make that your THUMB and just press it against the spark plug hole to create
an tight seal.

Ric -.
Toledo, Ohio
Home of the World Famous JeepR
<>

1948 - CJ2A L134 - #149488 - Mighty Mo
1948 - CJ2A L134 - #156174 - Ole Blue
1948 - CJ2A 225 V6 - #184134 - Willy
1950 - T3-C - #16517 Bantam Trailer.
1953 - CJ3A L134 453-GB1-18612
1963-5? - Wagoneer
1982 - M416 - Still 24 Volt
1989 - XJ - Cherokee Laredo -4.0L
2004 - Dodge Durango 4x4 w/car trailer - WRV(tm) - Willys Recovery Vehicle

Never Forget September 11, 2001
Freedom isn't free
<>
<<>>
<>
**
** Constants Aren't ****
** Variables Won't ****
**

_____

From: WillysTech@...<mailto:WillysTech%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:WillysTech@...<mailto:WillysTech%40yahoogroups.com>] On
Behalf Of T ROBERTS
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 9:00 PM
To: WillysTech@...<mailto:WillysTech%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [WT] Re: Almost

You can get very close by sticking your finger in the #1 spark plug hole
(not to far). Make an air tight seal but not a lot of pressure.

Then rotate the engine slowly in the direction it would normally run via
large socket wrench slowly. Easier if you have a friend.

When the pressure makes your finger pop out you are close enough to get
started with the process mentioned before.

Tom Roberts

Registered Nurse and Realtor

2000 XJ
53 Willys Pickup
Valleywide Premier Properties
TRobertsRN@msn. <mailto:TRobertsRN%40msn.com> com<mailto:TRobertsRN@msn.
<mailto:TRobertsRN%40msn.com> com>
602-616-2712
----- Original Message -----
From: John Francis<mailto:mrkringles@msn. <mailto:mrkringles%40msn.com> com>

To: WillysTech@yahoogro <mailto:WillysTech%40yahoogroups.com>
ups.com<mailto:WillysTech@yahoogro <mailto:WillysTech%40yahoogroups.com>
ups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 5:44 PM
Subject: [WT] Re: Almost

Okay, now how do I place the number one cylinder at TDC. Just look in
through the spark plug hole?

John

--- In WillysTech@yahoogro <mailto:WillysTech%40yahoogroups.com>
ups.com<mailto:WillysTech@yahoogro <mailto:WillysTech%40yahoogroups.com>
ups.com>, "DJ" <DJURSS@...> wrote:
>
> John
>
> You need to set #1 piston at TDC, then place the #1 plug wire in the
tower that the rotor is pointing at. Then go COUNTER clockwise with
the other plug wires in the proper order.
>
> You may need to adjust the dist housing so that the #1 tower is
aligned with the rotor in such a fashion that the point are JUST
opening. THis should get the engine to at least fire off, if not run
enough to fine tune the distro.
>
> DJ
> FL
>
>
>
[WT] Re: Almost (now SUCCESS!)

 

I had my son put his finger over the hole while I laid on the floor
with a big wrench and turned the engine. He wasn't sure what I was
asking him to do but I heard a loud squeak when #1 hit tdc and knew I
was there. I then placed the wires in their proper spots.

After a few minutes of cranking on and off I decided to shoot a
little starting fluid in the carb. The beast sputtered then came to
life! Oil pressure came up and after 10 seconds I shut it off. I
went to inspect the engine and found oil running down the inside of
the left fender. Further inspection showed that I didn't get the oil
filter top on perfectly. I cleaned up what I could and gave up for
the night.

It was a good day.

Thanks to all for the help.

John









--- In WillysTech@..., "Mighty Mo" <cj2a@...> wrote:

<snip>

You can get very close by sticking your finger in the #1 spark plug
hole
(not to far).

<snip>

Make that your THUMB and just press it against the spark plug hole
to create
an tight seal.



Ric -.
Toledo, Ohio
Home of the World Famous JeepR




1948 - CJ2A L134 - #149488 - Mighty Mo
1948 - CJ2A L134 - #156174 - Ole Blue
1948 - CJ2A 225 V6 - #184134 - Willy
1950 - T3-C - #16517 Bantam Trailer.
1953 - CJ3A L134 453-GB1-18612
1963-5? - Wagoneer
1982 - M416 - Still 24 Volt
1989 - XJ - Cherokee Laredo -4.0L
2004 - Dodge Durango 4x4 w/car trailer - WRV(tm) - Willys Recovery
Vehicle



Never Forget September 11, 2001
Freedom isn't free

<>

**
** Constants Aren't ****
** Variables Won't ****
**

_____

From: WillysTech@...
[mailto:WillysTech@...] On
Behalf Of T ROBERTS
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 9:00 PM
To: WillysTech@...
Subject: Re: [WT] Re: Almost



You can get very close by sticking your finger in the #1 spark plug
hole
(not to far). Make an air tight seal but not a lot of pressure.

Then rotate the engine slowly in the direction it would normally
run via
large socket wrench slowly. Easier if you have a friend.

When the pressure makes your finger pop out you are close enough to
get
started with the process mentioned before.

Tom Roberts

Registered Nurse and Realtor

2000 XJ
53 Willys Pickup
Valleywide Premier Properties
TRobertsRN@msn. <mailto:TRobertsRN%40msn.com>
com<mailto:TRobertsRN@msn.
<mailto:TRobertsRN%40msn.com> com>
602-616-2712
----- Original Message -----
From: John Francis<mailto:mrkringles@msn. <mailto:mrkringles%
40msn.com> com>

To: WillysTech@yahoogro <mailto:WillysTech%40yahoogroups.com>
ups.com<mailto:WillysTech@yahoogro <mailto:WillysTech%
40yahoogroups.com>
ups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 5:44 PM
Subject: [WT] Re: Almost

Okay, now how do I place the number one cylinder at TDC. Just look
in
through the spark plug hole?

John

--- In WillysTech@yahoogro <mailto:WillysTech%40yahoogroups.com>
ups.com<mailto:WillysTech@yahoogro <mailto:WillysTech%
40yahoogroups.com>
ups.com>, "DJ" <DJURSS@> wrote:

John

You need to set #1 piston at TDC, then place the #1 plug wire in
the
tower that the rotor is pointing at. Then go COUNTER clockwise with
the other plug wires in the proper order.

You may need to adjust the dist housing so that the #1 tower is
aligned with the rotor in such a fashion that the point are JUST
opening. THis should get the engine to at least fire off, if not
run
enough to fine tune the distro.

DJ
FL

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[WT] Re: Well, they are inspected!

 

I finally got my '51 M38 to pass NYS inspection today. HURRAY. It's
been 26 years since I had it "legal".

First time around, they peeled back the wheel cylinder boots and
found a little oil on three of the 4 brake wheel cylinders. I ended
up sending walacks some willys bucks to buy 4 new ones (by the way,
anyone ever buy the less expensive foreign made cylinders? Like 'um?
I got the US made). They also didnt like the sound of the front
wheel bearings. Timkin 18590 BTW. Replaced 'em. Didnt like the
ebrake, but let me squeek by, it does work if you pull hard enough.
I DO have a better condition vehicle now however.

Now I'm on to see why the RR hub is chucking when I change
direction.......Drove it to work and back today!






--- In WillysTech@..., "Chris Lange" <bullseye@...> wrote:

I know exactly how you feel. As for the emergency brake, you'll
get it, just don't give up. If you can get it to hold the jeep, and
make sure everything else is working good, you should be able to pass
it. On my 55 M38A1 the emergency brake shoes are just about worn
out, but with a little adjustment, cleaning the hub with brake
cleaner to remove any grease and grime, and maybe a prayer or two,
the inspecter passed it. It will hold the jeep on a hill, but if I
rev the engine, it will not hold the jeep in place.
Just keep tinkering with it, and you will get it right.

Try and find a inspector that deals with older cars though, as I
took my 55 M38A1 to a Dodge dealer and a guy half my age jumped into
her and flipped every switch he could find in trying to start her
up. When he couldn't get it, and had to have me start it for him, he
got quite snippy and really made life hard for me for about an hour.
Someone who will just jump into your pride and joy, a jeep you spend
huge amounts of time and effort on, and just start pushing and
pulling every knob they can find, is NOT someone you want. Turst me
on this...

Anyway, good luck, keep trying, you will get it, heck if I can
anyone can....

:)

Chris
Cortland, NY







----- Original Message -----
From: autoid_lurker
To: WillysTech@...
Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2007 10:54 PM
Subject: [WT] Re: Well, they are inspected!


Chris,

Congratulations! It is nerve wracking, even on my and my wife's
daily driver.

I've not had my 1951 M38 NYS inspected since the early 80's. And,
based on my other post about the ebrake, it may be another year!
I've very nervous.

--- In WillysTech@..., "Chris Lange" <bullseye@>
wrote:
>
> Good evening all,
>
> Well, I've got my two jeeps NYS inspected for another year.
(sigh
of relief). ;)
> It should get easier each year, as I put more and more work
into
these jeeps, but every year, I still worry. My best running, and
looking jeep (55 M38A1)took the longest to inspect. The guy went
top
to bottom on the poor thing, almost looking for something to fail
it. After an hour, he finally put a sticker on it, and out I went.
> The Cj3A on the other hand passed with little fanfare,
allthough it
only had 198 miles on it since last years inspection. :)
> Its body is in pretty rough shape, dents and dings mostly, but
an
engine of gold.
>
> Anyway, I'm done with New York bureaucracy for yet another
year.
Thank the Willys Gods. Now I can get down to maybe painting the
CJ3A
a little prettier color. :)
>
>
> Chris
> Cortland, NY
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Re: [WT] Re: Almost

 

<snip>

You can get very close by sticking your finger in the #1 spark plug hole
(not to far).

<snip>

Make that your THUMB and just press it against the spark plug hole to create
an tight seal.



Ric -.
Toledo, Ohio
Home of the World Famous JeepR




1948 - CJ2A L134 - #149488 - Mighty Mo
1948 - CJ2A L134 - #156174 - Ole Blue
1948 - CJ2A 225 V6 - #184134 - Willy
1950 - T3-C - #16517 Bantam Trailer.
1953 - CJ3A L134 453-GB1-18612
1963-5? - Wagoneer
1982 - M416 - Still 24 Volt
1989 - XJ - Cherokee Laredo -4.0L
2004 - Dodge Durango 4x4 w/car trailer - WRV(tm) - Willys Recovery Vehicle



Never Forget September 11, 2001
Freedom isn't free

<>

**
** Constants Aren't ****
** Variables Won't ****
**

_____

From: WillysTech@... [mailto:WillysTech@...] On
Behalf Of T ROBERTS
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 9:00 PM
To: WillysTech@...
Subject: Re: [WT] Re: Almost



You can get very close by sticking your finger in the #1 spark plug hole
(not to far). Make an air tight seal but not a lot of pressure.

Then rotate the engine slowly in the direction it would normally run via
large socket wrench slowly. Easier if you have a friend.

When the pressure makes your finger pop out you are close enough to get
started with the process mentioned before.

Tom Roberts

Registered Nurse and Realtor

2000 XJ
53 Willys Pickup
Valleywide Premier Properties
TRobertsRN@msn. <mailto:TRobertsRN%40msn.com> com<mailto:TRobertsRN@msn.
<mailto:TRobertsRN%40msn.com> com>
602-616-2712

----- Original Message -----
From: John Francis<mailto:mrkringles@msn. <mailto:mrkringles%40msn.com> com>

To: WillysTech@yahoogro <mailto:WillysTech%40yahoogroups.com>
ups.com<mailto:WillysTech@yahoogro <mailto:WillysTech%40yahoogroups.com>
ups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 5:44 PM
Subject: [WT] Re: Almost

Okay, now how do I place the number one cylinder at TDC. Just look in
through the spark plug hole?

John

--- In WillysTech@yahoogro <mailto:WillysTech%40yahoogroups.com>
ups.com<mailto:WillysTech@yahoogro <mailto:WillysTech%40yahoogroups.com>
ups.com>, "DJ" <DJURSS@...> wrote:

John

You need to set #1 piston at TDC, then place the #1 plug wire in the
tower that the rotor is pointing at. Then go COUNTER clockwise with
the other plug wires in the proper order.

You may need to adjust the dist housing so that the #1 tower is
aligned with the rotor in such a fashion that the point are JUST
opening. THis should get the engine to at least fire off, if not run
enough to fine tune the distro.

DJ
FL
Re: [WT] Re: Almost

T ROBERTS
 

You can get very close by sticking your finger in the #1 spark plug hole (not to far). Make an air tight seal but not a lot of pressure.

Then rotate the engine slowly in the direction it would normally run via large socket wrench slowly. Easier if you have a friend.

When the pressure makes your finger pop out you are close enough to get started with the process mentioned before.


Tom Roberts

Registered Nurse and Realtor

2000 XJ
53 Willys Pickup
Valleywide Premier Properties
TRobertsRN@...<mailto:TRobertsRN@...>
602-616-2712

----- Original Message -----
From: John Francis<mailto:mrkringles@...>
To: WillysTech@...<mailto:WillysTech@...>
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 5:44 PM
Subject: [WT] Re: Almost


Okay, now how do I place the number one cylinder at TDC. Just look in
through the spark plug hole?

John

--- In WillysTech@...<mailto:WillysTech@...>, "DJ" <DJURSS@...> wrote:
>
> John
>
> You need to set #1 piston at TDC, then place the #1 plug wire in the
tower that the rotor is pointing at. Then go COUNTER clockwise with
the other plug wires in the proper order.
>
> You may need to adjust the dist housing so that the #1 tower is
aligned with the rotor in such a fashion that the point are JUST
opening. THis should get the engine to at least fire off, if not run
enough to fine tune the distro.
>
> DJ
> FL
>
>
>
Re: [WT] Re: Almost

DJ
 

Remove the spark plug on #1. Place a finger over the hole. Rotate the engine. As the piston rises on the compression stroke, you'll feel the pressure increasing. At some point, the pressure starts to decline. Back up a tad and that will be TDC, or close enough for what needs to be done.

Rotate the motor through a few cycles so that you can feel the difference between intake, exhaust, compression, and power strokes. It is at the top of the compression stroke that TDC is found. About 5% degrees before this point is where the points should fire, or BTDC.

It is irrelevant which tower becomes #1, as long as this tower is where the rotor is pointing at #1 TDC.

DJ
FL
Re: [WT] Almost

 

Firing order on a F134 and any inline 4 cylinder is 1-3-4-2. The cylinders
are numbered 1-2-3-4 with #1 in the front of the vehicle.



As DJ stated, the distributor is wired 1-3-4-2 in a COUNTER CLOCKWISE
rotation.



Ric -.
Toledo, Ohio
Home of the World Famous JeepR




1948 - CJ2A L134 - #149488 - Mighty Mo
1948 - CJ2A L134 - #156174 - Ole Blue
1948 - CJ2A 225 V6 - #184134 - Willy
1950 - T3-C - #16517 Bantam Trailer.
1953 - CJ3A L134 453-GB1-18612
1963-5? - Wagoneer
1982 - M416 - Still 24 Volt
1989 - XJ - Cherokee Laredo -4.0L
2004 - Dodge Durango 4x4 w/car trailer - WRV(tm) - Willys Recovery Vehicle



Never Forget September 11, 2001
Freedom isn't free

<>

**
** Constants Aren't ****
** Variables Won't ****
**

_____

From: WillysTech@... [mailto:WillysTech@...] On
Behalf Of John Francis
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 8:02 PM
To: WillysTech@...
Subject: [WT] Almost



I took my leaking carb back to the fellow that rebuilt it. He took
it apart and said there was nothing wrong with it. But he did adjust
the float a little. I put it back on the engine tonight and that did
the trick!

I then connected the choke, throttle cable, and proceeded to install
the plugs. I checked the oil filter and found it full of oil so I
assume that means the oil pump is operating. I understand the firing
order on my F134 is 1-2-4-3 and the cylinders are 1-2-3-4 from the
front of the vehicle. I'm not an engine mechanic but think that if I
pick any wire on the distributor cap and call it number one and
connect it to the #1 cylinder plug. I then go clockwise with wires
and connect to plugs 2, 4, and 3 with the remaing wires. Correct me
if I'm wrong.

Well, to make a long story short I couldn't get it to start. I
checked each plug for spark while my wife turned the engine over and
had spark. What else can I do?

Thanks,
John
Re: [WT] Almost

 

order on my F134 is 1-2-4-3 and the cylinders are 1-2-3-4 from the
front of the vehicle. I'm not an engine mechanic but think that if I
pick any wire on the distributor cap and call it number one and
connect it to the #1 cylinder plug. I then go clockwise with wires
and connect to plugs 2, 4, and 3 with the remaing wires. Correct me
if I'm wrong.
You're wrong, sorta. The firing order is 1-3-4-2 and the rotor in the distributor rotates counter-clockwise. If the distributor is installed per factory specifications the #1 cap tower should be roughly in the 5 o'clock position. Then go counter clockwise 1342. Your way will work once #1 is set but that order is actually opposite of the way the rotor turns. Follow DJ's instructions for finding the #1 cap tower - just make sure that the #1 piston is at TDC of its compression stroke.

David
'50 $WD Pickup
43141 - 43160 of 192624