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So, Done several things, still some shaking at "high speed"- meaning over 50, in the 2 wd wagon. The wagon has the planar, cross mounted leaf spring, suspension. Takes about half a mile for the shaking to start. Slow down, it goes away, and starts again after another 1/2 mile of smooth operation Rebuilt steering box, to get rid of up and down movement of sector shaft, by RedHead. Reduced intensity of the problem Replaced leaf spring "eyes" at suggestion of alignment shop, couldn't see any problem with what I replaced, no excess movement. Set drag link tightness per manual, - tighten until tight, back off one turn. Tried tightening half a turn, perhaps some minor help. Checked for loose wheel bearings, seem OK Shaking wheel at 9-3 and 6-12 positions doesn't reveal any other loose or worn parts. King pins are relatively new. Haven't had the wheel balance checked; don't see any missing weights. Any ideas? -- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR

Can someone tell me the bolt size and thread pitch for a hood on a 1947 Willys. Thanks, Jim Ouimet jimouimet@...

I have a 50 CJ3A that I’ve owned and used for 54 years. I’ve worked on every component over the years. I have a new issue that I thought I’d ask about here before I started tearing things apart. The fuel gauge and sender are original and have always worked fine. Recently the gauge started showing less than 1/2 full when I fill the tank completely. So I’d like some advice as to what to do? Thanks

In my case, I put off returning the steering gear and shaft, etc, to the wagon until it warms up. Which it is doing. I just can't get myself out to an unheated garage when it's under 50 degrees. What a wimp. My friend the retired mechanic is advising that I replace the distributor, the concern being that the plate where the points attach is excessively worn; needs bearings; the shaft is 180 degrees out, etc. A new one will not be original, as far as I can tell, the one from the Jeepsterman does not use the vacuum advance. If I find a rebuilder, perhaps that's the way to go. Opinions welcome! -- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR

Received the steering box back from Red-Head. Too cold for me to want to re install right away. They send them back with "no play", and adjusting the sector shaft screw voids their warranty. Also, they send the unit filled with 00 grease/lubricant. Or double ought as they called it. I worked hard to get all the lubricant out before mailing to avoid leaking all over the place. Better seals now. The tech called me during the process, he does all or most of the Willys ones that come in. 6 employees when he started there 12 years ago, 70 now. Lots of steering gears, Internet makes their business possible. -- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR

I have a '54 4WD SW with no brakes, leaky gas tank... I have the cloth wiring kit, good tires, six cylinder, some of the brake parts and the title. How much is this worth? I have an '80 CJ that I would like to devote my time towards.

The not very old switch died, ordered a replacement, got a Standard products SLS 25 switch, put it in before noticing it said "not approved for use with silicone brake fluids". Which I use. Apparently, there is or are compatible switches out there, anyone else worked through this? -- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR

The redone Fhead 4 is in. Runs great. Nice to have working gas and temp gauges. The oil pan leaked more than I like, on one side of the engine. This was the side where the machine shop, working with a less than perfect block, welded in one or two helicoils (or something) to replace broken cast iron areas where the pan bolts attach. I'm guessing that engine oil is splashed on the ends of the bolts, and oil leaks down and though. The gasket is not designed to prevent this type of leak. I found "sealing washers", and installed them on the pan bolts on the one side. This completely stemmed the tidel. On the "good" side, there was some oil on the head ends of a couple of bolts. These bolts were not as tight as specified. I carefully set the torque on them, wonder if they loosened. Re torqued, will see how it goes. The rear seal, the reason this project started, does show a drop or two on the bell housing after a drive, but does not leak when parked. Not perfect, but good enough. The steering. Things are worn enough that the tightsteer unit is getting marginal. I can feel it start to shimmy a little when going down some hills. A friend used this outfit to go through his steering box: https://redheadsteeringgears.com/ He was very happy with the result, for a 1980's pickup. They do more than restore; apparently, they replace bushings with bearings and install improved seals. Would need to weld up and re grind the worm gear. Will cost $500 to $800. If anyone on the list has used them, please let me know. Dan -- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR

I've been working on getting the shimmy out of the front end of the planar style setup on the 2 wd Willys. Which led to a trip to Kaiser brake and alignment here in Eugene. They gave it a review, listed excessive play in the sector shaft, and worn out "eye bushings" for the cross-spring ends. They mentioned some wheel bearing noise. too. Which got me started on looking at and removing the front wheels. The reproduction hubcaps purchased 25-30 years ago have been very difficult to get on, enough pounding to cause the paint on the wheel to come off in places close to the hubcap. I stared at it a while, wondering if the clips on the wheels could be "adjusted", or if the hubcaps could be modified. Asking the Internet, I found a reference to the hubcap being 8 1/4" inches in diameter, exactly what I have. Then, looking over the current hubcaps sold by the Jeepsterman- they are 8 3/8" wide. That eighth of an inch would make this all work a lot better. Hmmm. Then there's the matter of the front brake drums. Centuries ago, I had them machined to get the rivet caused grooves out of the surface. I remember concern by the machine shop that they'd taken too much off- but there weren't any replacements available back then. I measured them, a bit crude with a tape, at 10 1/16" inside diameter, with the original being 10". Asking Mr. Internet, found that a typical limit is .060", which is about 1/16". Then, I found a picture of a NOS brake drum for the Willys, and it says .090" for the discard diameter. Which is about 3/32". So, I snuck under the wire, and can feel OK about the drums, since they're in good condition otherwise. The bearings are fine, should be quieter after getting new grease. So, like Maxwell Smart, "missed it by that much". Or, missed by 1/8" on the hubcaps, and made it by 1/32" on the drums. On the sector shaft, I adjusted the "tight steer" unit to remove the excessive play. Should work for a while. I heard about a place in Tacoma that remakes steering boxes, with ball bearings and a modern seal replacing the bronze sleeve, with the ability to weld up and re surface the worm gear. Sounds pretty good, expensive no doubt. Put off for another day. -- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR

Went to the famous Port Townsend (WA) wooden boat festival last weekend. There I met Eric, with a 1958 wagon, rough and ready style, meaning he'd made a wooden tailgate, and made other repairs to hold it together, not attempting a restoration. He painted it with a white top, solid color on the rest of it. It looked great, like an enamel, not like a color coat/clear coat. In the wooden boat world, oil based paint application is now commonly done with paint applied by a small foam roller, and then "tipped" lightly with a brush, to remove bubbles and such. With a paint additives such as Penetrol, or another appropriate thinner to keep the wet edge "wet", the results can be excellent, with few brush marks; it looks close to a sprayed surface. I've painted boats that look like a broom was used to apply the coating...before I learned about this technique. Eric has a wooden sailboat/electric boat that he uses for his "Left Coast Charter" business. He decided to paint his Willys the same way, using a new paint from Interlux, called Toplac Plus. Toplac Plus is formulated to roll on with a foam roller, with no "tipping" required. Eric rolled Toplac Plus on his wagon, and it looks great. Nice gloss, even coat. No brush used, so no brush marks. No runs, no overspray, no roller marks either. I attended a session with an Interlux rep at the festival. Interlux formulated this paint to address the recent European Union rule that prohibits use of cyanide chemistry in paints. This new paint is not as impervious to solvents without the cyanide; he mentioned that acetone would attack the dry paint. Without cyanide, it's safer, and sold to the general public. It is rated to go over metal. One can only get stock colors, a pretty limited set. On boats, it is a 5-7 year coating, There may well be an automotive equivalent, given that Interlux is a brand of Akzo Nobel, a large company that makes coatings for all kinds of things, like the insides of beer cans. Hope someone tries this and shares the results. https://www.interlux.com/en/us/boat-paint/topcoat-finish/toplac-plus-us Dan -- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR

So I have listened to different poeple compare the YF and solex carbs and ad I am having issues with power up a grade I thought I would switch the solex back to the Carter. Got it switched back and tried firing it up. When I got out of the cab and around to the front the whole engine was on fire. The Carter leaked like a sieve. Got the flames out and I've got some replacement wiring and a new distributor cap to replace. Going back to the new solex.

I have a new plastic tank in my truck and when full the sending unit shows 1/3 full. This is a 12v conversion and I used the drop down registers. Any one have any suggestions. All other gages work as they should although I had to put a resister in line on the temp as it would peg. All sending units are new.

This guy can do it all: creative thinking; home foundry work; machining. He's entertaining to boot. Since there are few Smart Car electric vehicles in N. America, would a motor from a Nissan Leaf be a better candidate? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gz3OKeD4_hU Pavel up North

So the resto is done and I'm at the point where I have to put out all the little fires. The big one is top end power. Im new to an F head in a truck. I live on a road that is 20 degree slope. I can't go up it faster than 20mph and at times have to stop and shift to first. Top speed on the flat is 42. First gear 0 to 20, 2nd is 20 to 30 3rd is 30 to 40-42. What has been done, efi distributor, new plugs and wires, new resister, new solex carburetor, new fuel pump. New alternator and battery. New plastic fuel tank, filter. Any thoughts, could the coil cause it

Finally getting around to changing the transmission and transfer case oil in my '57 4WD Pickup. The manual says to use SAE 90 GL-4 Gear Oil. Problem is I can only find SAE 80W-90 or SAE 85W-90. If they are substitutable, I read that SAE 85-140 is a little thicker than SAE 90, so maybe it will lessen the continuing drip. Any thoughts? Thanks, Fred