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Hello folks, I was hoping to pick the infinite wisdom of you folks. I got home and went to cut a few pieces of wood. It's not a Felder, sorry, a Laguna. I was sawing and my blade jumped off, replaced and same thing. I then tried another new Lenox blade I have and same thing. Typing is tough so I will try to make this simple, looking at the top wheel the blade will be towards the front on one side and towards the back on the other. It seems something if off angle now. I know there are likely more technical words but that's what I got. I tried to take a picture with ruler pointing in the directions of the blade to hopefully make this make sense. As I start to investigate I thought this would be a good place to get some insight. Thanks, Kyle

Hello FOG, As some of you are aware, there is a known issue with the Felder short (1100mm) Xcut fence—it does not consistently register at 90 degrees and for many users requires recalibration each time the fence angle is changed or the fence is re-mounted on the slider after removal. David Best has invested meaningful time and effort in researching and developing a solution for this problem. For more details, you can review his findings here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/albums/72157710682931263/with/48696122378/ David has decided not to produce additional retrofit kits himself. However, he has generously shared detailed diagrams outlining his solution. I have located a local metal shop willing to manufacture a batch of these retrofit kits to the required tolerances. Since I don’t have metal milling equipment myself, I will only be facilitating a single production run—provided we reach the minimum order quantity. Participation & Timeline If you’re interested in purchasing a kit, please let me know. I’ll be collecting registrations over the next few weeks, and if we reach at least 25 units, we will proceed with the production run. My target is to start production in the May-June time frame. Available Retrofit Kits & Pricing Retrofit for a Single Machine ($200–$250 + shipping) Requires you to send in your aluminum block for drilling and modification. Includes a retrofitted T-bushing, installation rod, and necessary screws. Retrofit for Two Machines ($450–$500 + shipping) Includes two T-nuts and two new flip stop that have built in adjustment, in addition to modifications to your aluminum block. I'll have the final price once I'll know the number of participants. If you would like to join, please specify which kit you are going to buy Supporting David Best David declined payment for his work in designing this solution, but I believe we should compensate him for his time and dedication. I encourage anyone purchasing the retrofit kit to consider making a donation. I will personally donate $100 for my kit, plus any profit from this group buy. If you’d like to contribute, I will be collecting donations and forwarding them to David. All of the donations to David get passed along to support people in war-torn communities

I'm looking to add a wide belt sander to my shop the 16” open side is pretty much the only one that can fit my shop. I noticed that several members here have this WBS. Powermatic is increasing prices next week, so looking to make a decision by then. I am debating between Powermatic and Northstate. The price difference between them is relatively small. Last I checked, the Northstate was around $7,000 plus $600–700 for liftgate delivery. Meanwhile, Amazon and Home Depot are offering the Powermatic for $8,000 with free shipping. I’m slightly leaning toward the Powermatic since it's a well-known brand and comes with a 5-year warranty. Northstate seems like a smaller company that could potentially go out of business. I know Powermatic parts would fit my machine, but any fix will be out of pocket. The downside of the Powermatic is that it only comes in a single-phase configuration, whereas Northstate offers a 3-phase 7.5HP version. A few questions for the group: Would you choose Powermatic or Northstate? Is 5HP sufficient for a wide belt of this size? is it worth waiting for the 7.5HP version? I understand it is a special request. If anyone here has the single-phase version, could you share the actual amp draw? someone tried to put casters on this machine? If you did, which brand? I have a 30A circuit where I plan to place the sander and want to make sure it’s adequate. Based on my estimate, a 5.25HP motor (including the 1/4HP feed motor) should draw around 16–17 amps. I noticed Powermatic recommends a 40A breaker, but manufacturers often overstate those numbers.

Hi all, Im Ty from Washington. We have a wood business in Whidbey Island, WA. Last week I purchased a Format4 Dual 51 in CA and drove it home this weekend. The machine was manufactured in 2014. It has the helical head and 10HP configuration. The trip was uneventful like I like. Unload was tricky but smooth. Ive got to buff out some light rust picked up from the trip. Now we are on to the electricity question. Initial research indicates that single phase VHDs are out for both power and power sensitivity reasons. Rotary seems to be the way to go (please confirm). We have an unused 30HP idler motor still in crate, so would prefer to put that to work with the right phase converter setup. Reading over some threads here seem to indicate that the internal motorized controls require tight electrical specifications. Also would be interested to know if these machines have a soft start as that would be a data point for my phase converter decision. Anyway, nice to meet you all and very excited to get this machine operational. Cheers, Ty www.coastalwood.works

After perusing the forum and documentation, I was expecting my saw to come with a 120mm port on the cabinet side. Well, I was in for a surprise. The "port" turned out to be a reducer connecting to what looks very much like a 4" flex inside the cabinet. I am not at all sure if it makes any sense to run a 5", reducing it to 120 mm, only to have it further reduced to 4" inside the machine. My gut tells me to slap a 4" port on it and call it a day. Am I missing anything?

Hello All, I just took delivery of an AD741 and noticed something odd. The cursor on the jointer height gauge is vertical rather than horizontal. I can't rotate it with my fingers and don't want to break it with pliers. Can you suggest how to rotate it to horizontal? Thanks, Jim

I have a k500 with the long bar ( z), but it sticks too far into my shop space to leave the carriage mounted full time. I think if I had the shorter bar I could leave it up. Does anyone have one available for sale? I also saw past threads for zero clearance inserts, but my computer locked me out of FOG for a while so not sure if any are still available. Also interested in any F&F or parallel fence setups for sale. I'm trying to make my slider as capable as my old cabinet saw was, and right now it's got a few pain points that prevent that. Thanks, Bryan

Hello, you excellent people, First time to the group, looking to take the plunge on (relatively) big iron ownership, hoping to run my selection process by you and hopefully reined in if it gets too crazy. I am a hobbyist woodworker, averaging few hours a week in my two-car-garage-turned-shop. While I used Unisaws and Sawstops in the past, I never bought a table saw for myself, making do with a bandsaw, track saw, lately a miter saw and a peculiar contraption that goes by the name Shopsmith. After ten years in this mode, I just about had it. Sliding table has been on my mind for some time, though I never used one. Long story short, over several months I persuaded myself that I need one in my life. Most of the work I do is with solid wood, though a recent remodel forced me to deal with cabinetry. Generally, while having a capability to work with sheet goods is appreciated, this is not where I see spending the majority of my time. Given that I do not have a big space, I made a couple optimization decisions. First, I'd like a saw-shaper combo. While I never used a shaper before, I can see the usefulness of the tool. It also synergizes well with a sliding table, making the combp significantly cheaper than having it a standalone tool. I expect to use it as a router half of the time, and to mill end grain joints — most of the other half. Second, I am seriously considering a short stroke. Cross-cutting a baltic birch sheet is the largest job I see myself doing, so a 1550mm table should be enough. For long boards, there's the rip fence and from what I understand, a shorter table actually makes it easier to access. This goes against my natural "more is better" instinct so I would appreciate pointing out if I am about to make an expensive mistake. With that in mind, I have narrowed my Felder options to KF500 and KF700. The more expensive option is in the consideration mainly because of the DROs available for tilt and rip fence. Is it really worth the 40% higher cost? (For that matter, might I be equally happy with a Hammer option?) I am considering a belt-driven scoring blade and a dado option no matter the model I end up with. Sorry for the long form. Please roast my selection and thought process. Any feedback is highly appreciated. Cheers, Stan Sent with Proton Mail secure email.

My K700S is due here in 2 days, so next week will be consumed with assembly, repositioning some things and hooking up the dust collection - which brings me to a couple questions. I could not get the Felder Overhead Guard since it was only available from Delaware and that was $500+ in shipping to my house so I was looking at a 2K total expenditure. Needless to say, I would rather spend that on other accessories. I have some spare 2x2 tubing of various gauges, so I am thinking of making my own overhead guard as an interesting side project. I don't like any of the aftermarket one's I have seen and being as I have all the steel laying around that I need, I could save a lot doing this project myself. My questions are: - Does anyone know the measurement of the Felder guard from center of front wheel to center of back wheel? - Also, the approximate thickness of the guard - it looks to me to be about 2 inches or so. Looking at the Felder, SCM, and Altendorf guards, they all angle back maybe 15 degrees or so. Do you think this is for a sleeker look or maybe allows for a bit easier lifting of the guard. I don't see a reason why you could not have one that raised and lowered at 90 degrees to the table if the design worked out that way - but maybe I'm missing something there. I will play around with a few designs but if I don't like my end result, I won't use it. The last thing I want to do is detract from the appearance of such a nice machine. As always, any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Dennis Payson, AZ

Hi! I am new to the FOG. I got a new (to me) first generation A3-31. Love it so far. I am having an issue where the guard doesn't hold its height and I noticed when I turn the knob on what I assume to be the tensioner it doesn't do anything. I am guessing the hardware was taken apart and put on wrong, because I can't seem to understand how the current order of nuts and bolts would actually do anything. Does anyone have one of these machines and can take a picture of the proper order of nuts and bolts? Or, better yet, have a parts diagram for the machine? I can't seem to find one anywhere. Thanks! Dan

Hello, I bought two of these heads thinking I would be able to simultaneously cut the over and under profile for some door panels I am making. I currently have a KF700 and the cavity for under profiling is too small for a 190mm head making the second head to cut under useless to me. Cost was 283.50 + import duties and two weeks of it sitting at customs because of all of the new laws and craziness (I had to fill out paper work describing the amount of aluminum and steel and where in the world it was smelt -- craziness). Needless to say I don't want to send it back to Whitehill; Insurance, shipping and potentially more duties. So the head would just be straight cost even $280 + shipping. I also have the under cutters and limiters for it that cost $102.60 sell for $100 even. The head is designed for over and undercutting but the knives are designed for under cutting only. $380 for all of it but I will sell individually. I am in the Baltimore, Maryland area. Here are the links to the items: https://www.whitehill-tools.com/cutter-heads/panel-heads/090S00030/ https://www.whitehill-tools.com/profile-cutters/panel-profiles/007H00084/

Hello, here is the latest update of things still for sale. It is named update # 7 I uploaded the list and photos in an album in the photos section. Let me know if anything interests you. Also, thanks to those who have already purchased, John

Hello FOG, I have a brand new AD941, a RL 140 and a Nova Voyager drill press for sale. I am located in Austin, Texas. After a really long wait to get all of them I am moving and will not be able to take them with me. Since this is my first post I am not sure of what I can post. Many thanks to David for all of his excellent PDFs which were invaluable in the setup of the AD941.

Hello group. I have a cf 741 and bought a mortising unit from a private party some time ago. It has been a while since I mounted the unit and wanted to reference some instructions before trying to figure it out myself. Would any of you kind folks have the instructions hand and being willing to share a copy? I have already done a search of the messages and photos, but have only seen bits and pieces of information. Thank you in advance. Tim Perez Albuququerque, NM

I have been reading the NEC for wiring a motor. The photo of the tag on the side of the machine says 19A at 230V. NEC makes a distinction between FLC and FLA. When I googled FLA for a 7.5HP 3 Ph motor I get 22A. So lets use 22 as FLA. Now NEC wire size is 125% of FLA or 27.5A and you size up so I need wire size for 30A. This all makes sense. Then onto the breaker. NEC says to size for 250% of FLA so the breaker would be 22*2.5=55A so I need a 55A breaker. In reading they point out that this is counter intuitive as the breakers job is to protect the wire and you are over-sizing the breaker. They say the motor must have protection for overload at 115% -125% of FLA and apparently that is what protects the wire. Does a felder F700Z have heaters or other protection in the starter? Am I reading this correctly?