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Does anyone have a Lamb Tool Works old style Parallel Fence they would like to sell? I need the F-style. Thanks. John H

I see from searching that the main hose replacement has been discussed quite a bit, but my 2008 machine main hose is in good shape. However, the 100 mm hose from the shaper cavity just under the saw top surface, which has a hose (100 mm?) leading down to a plastic chute on the side of the saw has disintegrated down to the wire loops. I took off the lower metal access panel, and can get to the exit connector, but the top one is another story. First, I have my power feeder bracket installed with the feeder on it. And I have the auxilary side table mounted to the back of the saw cabinet. Maybe the only way to service this is to take off the power feeder, the power feeder bracket and the lift cylinder, then remove the side plastic shroud on the side, and see if I can get to it then. Other ideas? Thanks, Mike Ward

Okay guy, I bought a 23 ga pin nailer for the cabinet door project. After research I landed on Grex P635L. I like that it can do 1/2” pins and the offset jig is nice. a.co I am getting used to the 2 lever trigger as this model does not have the typical depressible nose to arm the trigger. It also does not have the typical adjustable depth setting, instead the air pressure needs to be increased. Surprisingly it wants at least 110PSI to ensure the 5/8” pin is set below the surface. Even though this project is hard maple, this pressure is much higher than I expected. I typically run all of my nailers at 90 PSI, without issues. Issue is that 110 PSI is higher than my compressors cut in pressure and I have to keep an eye on the pressure. I already have one pin above surface to deal with. I looked into adjusting the pressure switch but can’t guarantee minimum cut-in of 110 PSI without going over 135 PSI maximum cutout. A new switch is same (109-140), presumably due to differential pressure requirement. All this to ask, are there 23 ga pin nailers that don’t require pressure over 100 PSI? Imran Malik IAM Wood Creations https://www.facebook.com/groups/362481112015700/?ref=share

Hello, you excellent people, First time to the group, looking to take the plunge on (relatively) big iron ownership, hoping to run my selection process by you and hopefully reined in if it gets too crazy. I am a hobbyist woodworker, averaging few hours a week in my two-car-garage-turned-shop. While I used Unisaws and Sawstops in the past, I never bought a table saw for myself, making do with a bandsaw, track saw, lately a miter saw and a peculiar contraption that goes by the name Shopsmith. After ten years in this mode, I just about had it. Sliding table has been on my mind for some time, though I never used one. Long story short, over several months I persuaded myself that I need one in my life. Most of the work I do is with solid wood, though a recent remodel forced me to deal with cabinetry. Generally, while having a capability to work with sheet goods is appreciated, this is not where I see spending the majority of my time. Given that I do not have a big space, I made a couple optimization decisions. First, I'd like a saw-shaper combo. While I never used a shaper before, I can see the usefulness of the tool. It also synergizes well with a sliding table, making the combp significantly cheaper than having it a standalone tool. I expect to use it as a router half of the time, and to mill end grain joints — most of the other half. Second, I am seriously considering a short stroke. Cross-cutting a baltic birch sheet is the largest job I see myself doing, so a 1550mm table should be enough. For long boards, there's the rip fence and from what I understand, a shorter table actually makes it easier to access. This goes against my natural "more is better" instinct so I would appreciate pointing out if I am about to make an expensive mistake. With that in mind, I have narrowed my Felder options to KF500 and KF700. The more expensive option is in the consideration mainly because of the DROs available for tilt and rip fence. Is it really worth the 40% higher cost? (For that matter, might I be equally happy with a Hammer option?) I am considering a belt-driven scoring blade and a dado option no matter the model I end up with. Sorry for the long form. Please roast my selection and thought process. Any feedback is highly appreciated. Cheers, Stan Sent with Proton Mail secure email.

As it was mentioned earlier here, Nova’s US arm is going thru chapter 11 reorganization. Appears they liquidated Nova Viking via Grizzly. It cost me $1187 delivered with lift gate charge ($500 off list price). Bit of a let down, I was told by Grizzly CS that extended warranty is included in purchase price but it turned out not to be the case. I was able to assemble the unit myself. Just scooted the column to the edge of the styrofoam so I can attach the base. Then lifted it up. Talking about the base it is not as big or as substantial as my current Delta 17-900. Although, I found it to be stable. For heavy and long metal work, it would be best to secure the base someway. It is not mentioned anywhere but it must have soft start as there is no startup torque induced vibration, something I am used to experiencing on my Delta. Couple of minor issues. Morse taper was scratched. Nova sent a replacement, took longer than I like but there was no resistance. Apparently they are working with a skeleton crew. I could not find a place to attach the chuck key holder other than removing one of the screws that holds the top cover and screwing it in that location. No mention in the manual either. I prefer a simple magnet for this but here is how I mounted it. The manual is decent but not perfect by any means. I will need to come up with a speed chart that I can mount on the DP. My Delta has one on the machine and it is very handy. One other thing, it requires a 3900 J surge protector. This Eaton model set me back $85. I wanted a smaller unit but could not find one, I guess it is not a big deal. Tripp Lite 8 Outlet Industrial Safety Surge Protector Heavy Duty Power Strip, 25ft Cord, Cord Wrap & Hang Holes, Metal, Lifetime Limited Warranty & $100K INSURANCE (TLM825SA) a.co There is no runout to speak of at the taper. Not sure how important this is, but the chuck outside is within 0.001”. Then I chucked a new 15/32 bit and checked runout on shank on the top and it measured +/- 0.001”. I don’t have a precise shaft to indicate down couple of inches to see how accurate it really is but so far so good. I thought that I would need to buy an expensive chuck to get this type of performance, so naturally I am very satisfied. Just drilled the first hole (1/2”) in the plastic. Very nice and crisp hole. It is to install a panel mount fuse holder. The plastic cover could not be easily held perfectly vertical the way it is constructed and I noticed that the laser is slightly off. I will try a flat piece to double check before messing with re-alignment of the laser. HTH anyone, considering to buy a Viking. I assume Voyger is just as good if not better. Imran Malik IAM Wood Creations https://www.facebook.com/groups/362481112015700/?ref=share

Hey guys. I'm in need of a 12" digital caliper. I have a Mitutoyo 6" that is excellent, but their 12" calipers are upwards of $470 or so. There are many cheaper variants (Fowler, Inzise, Accusize, etc.). Can anyone recommend a decent one? Some of these cheaper calipers have flimsier bodies and thinner calipers. The flexible bodies can cause a variance in measurement. I would love a stainless steel variant, but let me know what you think. -Aaron Inami

It’s been several years since I did any veneer work, and I’m looking for some advice. I’m about to start the doors and drawer front for a large cabinet project (which is largely complete except for the front faces) and one of the options is to start with 19mm plywood and apply a quarter-sawn Wenge veneer. I have the choice between paper-backed veneer with [pick your favorite] glue in a vacuum bag setup, or to go with veneer that has a 3M PSA adhesive layer on the back side. I’ve never worked with the latter, and I see all kinds of new and different glues available now for conventional vacuum bag glue-ups. So I’m looking for suggestions & guidance that is “current day” informed. I am NOT interested in a contact cement approach. This specific project will have a 19mm ApplyPly Premium substrate (12-layer birch with maple face). I would cut the three individual parts ~3mm undersized, apply 5-6mm thick Wenge edge band, then apply the Wenge face veneer, then fit and cut to finial size based on actual cabinet openings. There are two door panels that are 14” wide by 46” tall, and one drawer face that is 28” wide and 15” tall. I can source the quarter-sawn Wenge veneer with either paper or PSA adhesive backing in 4x8 sheets. Since I’ve never worked with PSA-backed veneer, I’m a bit skeptical not sure I want to experiment - so looking for input here. I see various comments that the substrate material should be finished with sealer, varnish, lacquer, etc. prior to applying the PSA-backed product. And if I do decide to use a traditional paper-backed veneer and vacuum bag route, which of the myriad of current glue alternatives is the best choice. I’ve never worked with Wenge veneer either, so if anyone here has, I’d love to get some understanding about crosscutting it after glue-up and what kind of tear-out challenges I might have to contend with. Thanks for your suggestions. David Best DBestWorkshop@... https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/ https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best

Subject kinda says is all but, I just discovered the smart stand that came with my Comatic DS700 is too wide to mount to the flip away bracket. The hole pattern is fine but the flange at the base is roughly 6.7” wide whereas the usable width of the bracket (without running into the strut support) is around 5”. Has anyone successfully mounted a recent Comatic power feeder to a Felder flip-away bracket. If so can you provide details on the stand from Comatic? Regards, Ron

I got tired of fighting the Felder F48 power feeder. Very heavy and awkward to switch from horizontal to vertical feeding. So I purchased a Comatic DC70 with the smart stand. In error, I assumed the bases of the stands would all be similar. To my chagrin, I found the base of the smart stand will not bolt up to the plate on the tilting mount of my KF700SP. I understand the weight considerations. The smart stand is heavier than the old stand, while the new feeder is considerably lighter than the F48. And I can remember to lock the memory feature on the smart stand before swinging it out of the way. So, to my question(s). Has anyone else attempted to mount a smart stand to the tilting base? If so, what modifications did you make? As you can see, part of the tilting mount interferes with the stand base, preventing it from being centered on the mount. Thanks for any suggestions. Alex B.

fyi... ---------- Forwarded message --------- From: James Zhu <james.zhu2@...> Date: Wed, May 30, 2018 at 8:09 PM Subject: Re: [felder-woodworking] Install gas spring assistance for the tilt-away bracket for KF700 To: phil_moger@... [felder-woodworking] <felder-woodworking@...> Marty, Carl Knapp from Felder USA sent me the brilliant instruction and pictures below on how to install the gas strut, and I was done in 5 minutes!!! Felder tech from Mississauga asked me to try the ratchet strap, I simply cannot get it work. I do not have the F48 on the bracket. I know it would be very difficult and dangerous to have it on the bracket while installing the gas strut. The gas strut made in Germany is rated at 1600N, no wonder I cannot push it down using my manpower :) From Carl Knapp: loosening the bolts circled and the lower nuts, That let the bracket lift up enough to attach the shock. Then I tighten it back down. On Wed, May 30, 2018 at 7:12 PM, Marty Fretheim lnmnmarty@... [felder-woodworking] <felder-woodworking@...> wrote: James, I had the same problem when I installed mine. I can't remember exactly what I did. I seem to recall that I left the two bottom nuts that attach the bracket down low on the side of the machine off. Then you can tilt the bracket up enough to get the pin in. Then you have some leverage to push the bracket down and install those two nuts. It looks like you have the stock feeder already installed on the bracket. I would remove it until you get the strut pinned and the bracket installed correctly. I wish I could remember exactly how I did it but you don't have a defective part as I had the same issue. Just ignore the funky Felder instructions and be creative. It is doable. Brian's advice is sound also. Good luck, Marty On May 30, 2018, at 12:00 PM, James Zhu james.zhu2@... [felder-woodworking] <felder-woodworking@...> wrote: Back to March, I got the Felder gas spring assistance, but life gets in the way. Today, I finally have time to install it. I have difficulty to attach the metal bracket to the head of the gas strut. See attached pictures. I tilt the base, the gas strut is just a few millimeters longer, and I am not able to push down the gas strut using my manpower to align the holes for the bolt connecting them together. Any advice? Thanks, James <IMG_4882.JPG> <IMG_4883.JPG> __._,_.___ Posted by: Marty Fretheim <lnmnmarty@...> Reply via web post ? Reply to sender ? Reply to group ? Start a New Topic ? Messages in this topic (2) Check out the automatic photo album with 2 photo(s) from this topic. Have you tried the highest rated email app? With 4.5 stars in iTunes, the Yahoo Mail app is the highest rated email app on the market. What are you waiting for? Now you can access all your inboxes (Gmail, Outlook, AOL and more) in one place. Never delete an email again with 1000GB of free cloud storage. To Post a message, send it to: felder-woodworking@... Visit the group web site: http://www.groups.yahoo.com/group/felder-woodworking Visit the FOG photo library at http://photobucket.com/albums/a88/Fogpics/ Visit Your Group New Members 3 ? Privacy ? Unsubscribe ? Terms of Use . __,_._,___

Hello FOG, As some of you are aware, there is a known issue with the Felder short (1100mm) Xcut fence—it does not consistently register at 90 degrees and for many users requires recalibration each time the fence angle is changed or the fence is re-mounted on the slider after removal. David Best has invested meaningful time and effort in researching and developing a solution for this problem. For more details, you can review his findings here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/albums/72157710682931263/with/48696122378/ David has decided not to produce additional retrofit kits himself. However, he has generously shared detailed diagrams outlining his solution. I have located a local metal shop willing to manufacture a batch of these retrofit kits to the required tolerances. Since I don’t have metal milling equipment myself, I will only be facilitating a single production run—provided we reach the minimum order quantity. Participation & Timeline If you’re interested in purchasing a kit, please let me know. I’ll be collecting registrations over the next few weeks, and if we reach at least 25 units, we will proceed with the production run. My target is to start production in the May-June time frame. Available Retrofit Kits & Pricing Retrofit for a Single Machine ($200–$250 + shipping) Requires you to send in your aluminum block for drilling and modification. Includes a retrofitted T-bushing, installation rod, and necessary screws. Retrofit for Two Machines ($450–$500 + shipping) Includes two T-nuts and two new flip stop that have built in adjustment, in addition to modifications to your aluminum block. I'll have the final price once I'll know the number of participants. If you would like to join, please specify which kit you are going to buy Supporting David Best David declined payment for his work in designing this solution, but I believe we should compensate him for his time and dedication. I encourage anyone purchasing the retrofit kit to consider making a donation. I will personally donate $100 for my kit, plus any profit from this group buy. If you’d like to contribute, I will be collecting donations and forwarding them to David. All of the donations to David get passed along to support people in war-torn communities

I really like my Fat 300 for lifting stuff. But the top is not flat and when I try to build something on it I don't have good results. I wonder if I just got a bad top, or if others have replaced theirs with another alternative. The MFT tops available on Amazon are not the correct size. I'd order another top from Felder if I thought that I might get a flat one. I thought about taking a hand plane to it, but don't really like that idea. Thanks for your help and suggestions. Bill Belanger

Have a set of "Big squeeze" air clamps for sale. I haven't had the time to properly install these on my current saw and have used them a few times and they work awesome. Just not using them enough to justify keeping them. Willing to ship on the buyers dime // Asking $600