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Hello again, I have a couple of questions that have probably been answered in here multiple times, but I’ve had a search across prior topics and haven’t found quite what I’m looking for (probably my bad searching!). So, here goes… (1) - Outrigger fence adjustment What is the best way to adjust the fence in the outrigger to get it square to the blade? I’m assuming the 5 cut method, but maybe there’s another way. (2) - Zero clearance inserts Where can I buy zero clearance inserts - I’m in the UK. (3) - Extraction hose diameter Is the hose 100mm internally to the saw? If so, is there a suggested adaptor that I can replace the stock adaptor (100 internal, 120 external) with that bolts in place of the standard one? (4) - 3rd party hold down solutions I like the idea of the eccentric hold down clamp for the slider, but clearly not the cost from Felder as I don’t really want to have to sell a kidney. Are there any 3rd party options that do a similar job? I’m thinking I’ll just use a toggle clamp and make something up myself, but wondered if there was any enterprising soul who had done this already. Thankyou for any suggestions you can give. So far I am really impressed by the help in this forum, it’s easily the best I’ve ever used - by a long way! Cheers, Morgan

I am looking to build drawers with box joint and I was looking for a shaper cutter to do it in a single run. I saw this cutter in EU, but I wonder if someone saw it in a local distributor. https://www.aigner-werkzeuge.at/wm-fingerzinkenfraeser

Am embarking on making two large vanities for a master bath remodel and thinking through the process of making the drawer sides (solid poplar or maple) and bottom panel. What are your best practices for cutting the drawer sides and the dado for the bottom panel using a K700S saw (with a dado stack) and F700Z shaper - lets keep the joinery (dovetail, etc.) out of the equation for now ;). Thank you! Kamal Patel

Hi everyone, I have a couple electrical issues with two machines which I’m trying to fix. They have happened within a couple weeks of each other which I think is just a coincidence as the rest of machines are running fine and all on the same line. Fb540 has the electronic brake locked on and after a little digging rectifier on the motor seems to have blown (circled in red on the second photo). Would this cause this? I’ve had a look and haven’t found a replacement yet but dont really know where to look and what to search for. The f700 has just stopped working, I can’t locate any fuses or anything that has tripped. It use to make a ‘thunk’ noise and start whirring once you flicked the main power switch on and would then fire up when you hit the green button. Now it still makes the ‘thunk’ noise but shows no other signs of life. I opened it up but it is way beyond by skill set. I dont know if there any easy fixes for these issues but any help would be greatly appreciated, I just dont wanna miss something obvious before I reach out to a technician . Best, J

This is the orientation I'm using, should be best for strength. The File can be found here, it's 61mb, so too large to email: hammer duct v2.stl hammer duct v2.stl Shared with Dropbox Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com

I've recently received my AD-741 and FB-710 for a new shop and am trying to nail down the electrical configuration. I've not dealt with 3-phase nor am I versed in such matters, but based on prior reading here I'm looking at a Phase Perfect converter. After a conversation with their tech support I'm looking at the PTE010, which I understand is plenty for either tool individually but not enough to run both simultaneously, which I have no need or intention of doing. My question is about how to configure this. Ideally I'd like some way of switching the converter output to support one machine or the other and preclude the possibility of powering both simultaneously. I've seen some discussion here about supporting multiple tools from one converter, but nothing addressing this switching question (not that my search has been exhaustive...). It would be acceptable to have a single 3-phase "highway" with plugs for both machines, relying on my own discipline to only power one at a time, but that would not be my preference. Am I making this more difficult than it needs to be? Thank you, Doug

The internal hose in my slider has disintegrated. Felder is out of stock both here and in Austria. They forecast an 8–10 week delivery delay for a replacement. Further, some years ago, David Best recommended against using Felder hose and favored Air Handling's AH Plus product. Air Handling no longer has that product designation but offers a few abrasion-resistant choices at a significant up charge. So now, my questions: 1. Can I substitute a slightly larger 4" hose for the 100mm original? 2. Is there a method to fit a 4" hose (internal circumference 12.42") onto the rectangular chute that measures 4.75" x 1.75" (outside dimension 13")? 3. How can I form the reinforcement wire in the hose from a circle to a rectangle, just bend the wire? 4. How does one install this stuff one-handed via the minuscule access opening? 5. Are there any outside the box solutions like (a) commissioning a metal or 3-D printed rectangle-to-round transition or (b) sealing all of cabinet openings (except for the blade assembly) and evacuating the whole plenum with a 6" vacuum line? It has already occurred to me that a few inexpensive changes at the design and manufacturing end would have minimized this annoying problem, but I don't have a time machine so that is out. Any other suggestions will be gratefully appreciated. Thanks. Jim Fleming

Hi guys, Started out as a casual woodworker years ago - my wife bought me a Jet lathe and it was a slippery slope from there. A few years ago I decided to give it a go as a business on the side. Had a few good customers and built some nice cabinets, but decided that career isn't right for me. Over the last year as I've wrapped up personal projects I've made the decision to sell most of my equipment. Starting with the big stuff which includes the above mentioned K700 and FB 610. The K700 I purchased late 2021 from Felder with specs as follows: 1 ST 425-70000 Saw unit with double trunnion for saw blade dia. 250-315 mm Cutting height max. 104 mm, saw blade tilt with handwheel 90°-45°, saw spindle dia.30mm speed 4800 rpm 1 ST 424-70019 Cutting width 800 mm with additional table long for K 700 (S) 1 ST 425-10000 Machine Base K 700 Min transport width 980 mm 1 ST 424-30033 Packing STANDARD 2100 x 1200 mm IPPC 1 ST 425-70030 Removable flange for dado blade for max. D- 229 mm x b-20 mm 1 ST 423-70025+1 Circular saw fence with fine adjustment Round bar guide with ruler 1 ST 425-70025 Overhead saw guard (rip capacity 800 mm), hood for 90° and hood for angled cuts are height-adjustable and can be pivoted away fr the working area, saw blade diameter 315mm, Vacuum connector D-80 mm 1 ST 423-70015 Dial for saw blade angle in handwheel 1 ST 430-20069 Sliding table, Table length 2050 mm Anodised 1 ST 424-50033 On and off switch on the sliding table 1 ST 424-11002 1 ST 424-11009 Outrigger table 1300 for cutting length 1300 2500 mm, Table size 950 x 640 mm 424-70024 Crosscut fence 2600 mm (102") with mounting set for for outrigger 1300/1500 1 ST 430-20019 Mitre Indexing System For Outrigger 1 ST 430-20021+1 Crosscut Fence 1100 Mm 1 ST 430-20022 Inch scales for crosscut fence 1100 1 ST 430-20020 Inch scales for crosscut fence 2600 1 ST Inchscale for parallel cutting width 31 1/2" 1 ST 424-40616 Electrical system 1x230V, 60Hz, 3kW S1 CE/US 1 ST 424-40602 60 Hz motor frequency 1 ST 500-33004 USA - Sticker set K3 1 ST POWER1 **** ATTENTION *** The electrical system of this machine is suited for 1x230 V +/-10% (207 V - 253 V) I added Mac's Airtight clamp setup which was a game changer, the Felder outrigger cart and also the Lamb Parallel guides. For just the saw (no Airtight clamps or Lamb guides) I'd like to get $10,500. With all the extras - $14,000. Not willing to part with any of the accessories before the saw is sold. This would be for local pickup unless the buyer arranges shipping. I'm located about 30 miles north of Seattle, WA. 2nd item is the FB 610 which I purchased from Felder late 2023. I was initially looking for the 510, but this was available so I grabbed it. Comes with several Timberwolf blades of various sizes/tpi and a 1" Resaw King that has like 20' of material run through it. Bandsaw config: FB 610 Bandsaw CE model · 3x400V 50 Hz 4.5HP (3.3 kW) S6/40% · with upper and lower precision blade guiding · rack and pinion for upper blade guiding · tilting saw table -5 to 45 dg. · Alu rip fence slot in the table for mitre fence including auto. brake · cutting height 410 mm, · cutting width 575 mm, · indication for blade tension. · Saw blade length from 4521mm to 4571mm · Recommended saw blade length 4546 mm Motor 1x 230 V 60 Hz 3.0 kW X-Life bandsaw guide with ceramic I'd like to get $4000 for the FB 610. Same deal - local pickup or buyer arranges shipping. Thank you!!!

Hi all, I'm researching dust collection options for my shop, and several of my top choices for collector have a 160 mm inlet. In the beginning, I assumed that I'd just drop that down to 6" ducting with an adapter. But, my shop is at 6360' altitude, which effectively increases the static pressure in the ducting by a factor of ~1.27. As it happens, 160mm ducting has about 78% of the static pressure per foot of 6" ducting, so 160mm duct work will give me almost the same static pressure as 6" ducts at sea level. So, I'm thinking of buying 160mm ducting, but that seems to be a bit hard to come by in the USA. I haven't yet started making phone calls, but all the normal duct suppliers people mention list only imperial measurement ducts on their websites, and no metric. Has anyone here sourced metric ducting in the USA? My preference is ducting with quick connect clamps. If I can't find a good source of 160mm ducting, I may size up to 7". My local Felder rep has confirmed that they do not sell 160mm ducting, just 160mm flex hose. A search for "160mm" in the forum doesn't seem turn up any mention of 160mm ducting in the USA. -Michael Wolf Tahoe City, CA

I have a BF6-41 with a Delta Uni-Fence that I installed many years ago. I'm generally happy with it. However, the rail that the fence rides on protrudes almost 26" past the jointer. This gives me a large capacity - 50", but I don't think I've ever used it. Anything this large, and I'm just going to use the slider. So I'm looking to cut this back. I can take off 22" and I'd still have 30" between the blade and the fence and only 4" or so protruding past the jointer. What do you think? Thanks in advance.

Hi FOG group! I have a vintage 2001 CF 731. I over fed the planer and took a chunk out the tire like wheel that spins the feed mechanism. This group had such a vast amount of experience with Felder machines, I thought I might start here for recommendations on how to repair. Any suggestions?

Hello all, I just took delivery of a new Hammer B3 at the first of the year and I’m having a good time figuring everything out about it. I’m on the Big Island of Hawaii and it was a trip for it to get here for sure but no shipping damage. The only real issue I’m having is the slider lock gets stuck sometimes and is very difficult to release. Anyone else have and solve this problem? Matt Brandt

I know this has been discussed a few times, but maybe the photos and sketch will help someone who is considering doing the same thing. A while ago I bought a mitre gauge (similar to this) from Banggood and have recently found time to make some adapters, based (I think) on David Best's idea. I used 30x20 EN3B (bright mild steel), rather than aluminium, because I was concerned (needlessly, I suspect) about side load on the thin vertical section. I used two nylon-tipped 4x14mm grub screws for the lateral adjustment and two 8x8mm nylon-tipped grub screws for the vertical adjustment and locking. If I were doing it again I would use 5 or 6mm diameter screws for the laterals, and 10mm long screws for the verticals. The holes for the laterals are clearance-bored about 15mm deep to avoid the need to tap the whole thing. The mitre gauge is fixed to one of the adapters by removing the large washer at the end and replacing its M5 screw with a longer one, which engages with a tapped hole in the adapter. It doesn't seem that the other end needs to be secured. It only took a couple of hours to make the adapters and early experiences suggest it was time well spent. The mitre gauge has a means of adjusting-out minor errors and drops into the adapters with no wiggle room, so should be repeatably accurate. I can see myself using it as my standard cross-cut fence for smaller jobs. Dave (in the UK)

In the process of calibrating a used A3-31 and stumbled upon an issue with the planer feed roller. The right side is too high and for some reason doesn't rest on the support bolt (see the gap in the photo). The spring feels fine so wondering if it's not seated properly. Presumably the only way to access the top of the adjustment screw/spring is to take the the entire cutterhead/feed roller unit out? Right side that has the issue | Left side is fine Extent of the alignment issue :( Chris

I am the recipient of Bill Belanger's prototype hose adapter. As he says, the prototype was on the thin side but it has held up well under moderate usage for almost a year. After installation, I had proposed a couple of tweaks to make the adapter easier and more secure to install as well as strengthening the walls. The trick to strengthening is to add the additional thickness on the outside of the rectangular section and the inside of the cylindrical section. The rectangle needs to go over the chute and the cylinder goes inside the hose. The 45° bend prevents hose contact with the side of the case when the arbor is tilted. I am on vacation this week. I will try to find my original correspondence with Bill when I get home Sunday and will post an update. Jim Fleming ---------- Forwarded message --------- From: [email protected] <[email protected]> Date: Thu, Jan 30, 2025, 1:27 PM Subject: [FOG] Felder Owners Group - Digest #4170 To: Jim Fleming <jameshfleming@...> This is a digest for Felder Owners Group. View all your groups.io groups, and edit your subscriptions, here. Do not reply to this email. To reply to a message, click the Reply link under the message. Topics in this digest: . 1. Re: B3 won’t switch off 2. Re: Replacement of internal dust hose is K3 Hammer slider (9) 3. Re: A3-31 roller issue (2) messages: . 1a. Re: B3 won’t switch off From: Morgan Skinner Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2025 06:40:38 PST Imran, Thanks again for your help here. Felder have provided me with the attached, which may be the correct schematic, but my machine is 2014 and this schematic is from 2019. The chap from Felder mentioned he thought it might be the brake board. I’m not sure if my B3 has a brake, I can’t say I’ve used a saw that does, and mine (when it does decide to shut off) doesn’t seem to spin down any slower than the other table saws I have owned which most definitely didn’t have a brake. Anyway, he mentioned this… I have picked up your ticket with regards to your hammer B3P and looking at the information on the ticket I would suggest the brake board is being temperamental and needs to be looked at. The brake board is labelled up either 1B1 or 2B1 and is shown on the attached wiring diagram, there is a small led light on this and I would be interested to see what that light is doing. Stable or flashing. The reason I don’t think this is anything to do with the brake (even if I have one) is that I’d expect there to be an NVR switch/circuit in a machine of this quality, and whilst I appreciate that once running, if there was a brake then that could possibly impede the shutdown, I’d also expect that removing the power entirely and then plugging it in again would not make the saw start up again. Anyway, I’ve attached the schematic and if I do happen to get another one I’ll pass that on. Cheers, Morgan Attachments: Felder B3 Perform Wiring Schematic.pdf View/Reply Online | Reply To Group | Reply To Sender | Mute Topic | Top ^ | New Topic 2a. Re: Replacement of internal dust hose is K3 Hammer slider From: Bill Belanger Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2025 08:05:28 PST ? I printed this a year ago for a fellow who says it has worked out well for him. It’s not my design and I can no longer find the STL file and I don’t remember where I found it. My plan was to redesign it to make it stronger because it’s a bit flimsy, but I believe I could just print it with more infill (thicker) to solve that. I’m on vacation now but I’ll be back in 2 weeks and I can keep working on this if there is interest. We were going to work on improving the attachment. Bill Belanger View/Reply Online | Reply To Group | Reply To Sender | Mute Topic | Top ^ | New Topic 2b. Re: Replacement of internal dust hose is K3 Hammer slider From: Christopher Rozycki Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2025 08:56:41 PST Bill! I for one am interested. Do you have the specs? Chris Chris Rozycki View/Reply Online | Reply To Group | Reply To Sender | Mute Topic | Top ^ | New Topic 2c. Re: Replacement of internal dust hose is K3 Hammer slider From: Bill Belanger Date: Thu, 30 Jan 2025 09:14:59 PST Chris; Nega